A Store To Fit A Healthy Lifestyle

Debbie Yamaguchi

When the owners of Umeke Market decided to expand their increasingly popular range of organic and health-related products, they turned to co-owner Debbie Yamaguchi to take the lead.

“I always wanted to include in the lifestyle store the kinds of things that I like to shop for,” says Yamaguchi of the recently opened Umeke Lifestyle. “And while I love food and love to bake, I have a lot of interest in clothing and other products.”

So she began sourcing products for the store that reflected her own vibrant, positive approach, and she’s been amazed by the response.

“It’s incredible, really,” she says with a smile. “I thought I was putting together a range of things that I liked - I had no idea, really, that so many people would feel the same way.”

The response from customers varies from enthusiastic and positive comments to suggestions for new product lines.

“Every day someone will ask if we can bring in a certain item, or they’ll suggest a brand or a product that we don’t yet have,” she says. “Rugs, for example. Who would have thought of organic rugs? Or leotards? Some of my customers requested leotards made from organic cotton - and I thought to myself, ‘wow these people really know what they want!’”

Yamaguchi is grateful for the suggestions, and at the same time she’s incredibly impressed with her customers.

“Our customers really have great ideas about what they want to have as part of their lifestyle,” she says, “and hopefully we’re able to cater to their needs.”

Umeke Lifestyle is just a few steps beyond Umeke’s highly successful market and deli, and it stocks a range of lifestyle products including clothing, bath and makeup supplies, stationery and even an attractive range of cotton wallets made from recycled sheets.

“One area we really needed to address was the skin-care range,” says Yamaguchi. “When you think about it, what you put into your body and what you put on your body are equally important.”

So Umeke now carries a range of mineral powders, bio-dynamic makeup, and skin-care ranges that includes the fabulous Dr.

Hauschka brand from Germany.

There’s also a selection of toddler toys and accessories from Under The Nile, a company specializing in 100 percent organic baby clothes and toys.

“People don’t really think about it too much,” says Yamaguchi, “but cotton is a highly treated crop, and the pesticides that linger in the cotton are present in clothing too.” And there are metals in dyes that color clothes. “When you think about what children put into their mouths, there are a lot of parents concerned about those aspects of a healthy lifestyle too.”

And comparatively, prices aren’t outrageously higher than non-organic goods. “Our most expensive organic cotton top is around $60 and we’ve jackets for $40,” she says of the incomparably soft fabrics.

And for those whose sense of fashion is as important as their health, then you’ll be pleased to hear that Debbie is on the search for organic clothing that actually looks good.

“Oh, so many of those natural fashions just look so terrible,” she says, laughing. “I don’t want our customers to look like they’re wearing a burlap bag - we’re looking for clothing that is stylish, hip and part of a healthier lifestyle.”

Umeke Lifestyle At Umeke Market 4400 Kalanianaole Highway (near Kahala Mall, next to Petland)

Phone: 739-2990

Hawai’i Light And Healthy: Recipes From Midweek’s Heart-y Chef - by Diana Helfand

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Learning True Italian Cooking

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Friday - January 12, 2007

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Chef Donato Loperfido

If any of your resolutions this coming year involve perfecting your cooking skills, learning more about food or just committing to making simple meals at home, then here are two great places to start. The theme is Italian - fortuitous because apparently when we get out the cookbooks at home, it’s the taste of Italy that we want to emulate.

Donato Loperfido has long considered himself the ambassador of all things truly Italian in Hawaii. Show him a plate of pasta and meatballs in a gooey red sauce and he will likely show you the door. Offer the idea that spaghetti bolognese is a traditional dish from his homeland, and he will look at you like ... oh, just trust me, you’ll understand the look when you see it.

“People don’t really know or understand true Italian cooking in Hawaii,” says the passionate, opinionated and incredibly talented chef. “With my ‘Flavors of Italy’ and now these cooking classes, I want to show people a true taste of my country.”

Foodies have long clamored to attend Donato’s cooking classes. Like any wonderful Italian meal, they last for hours, involve a great deal of conversation, several glasses of wine and incredible food. Donato used to hold the occasional class at his eponymous Manoa restaurant, and I could never get to one. I’d enthuse about them on the radio, and by the time I got around to calling Donato they’d always be full.

This time around it may be even harder to get a seat at the kitchen table.

“My classes will be taught from a home in Diamond Head,” he says, “because I want to show people how to cook at home - not to teach them in a commercial kitchen where they feel that they can’t achieve what a chef does.”

Classes are limited to eight people, will take place Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., with lunch served at the end of each class.

“I will show people how to make the classic dishes of my region and of other regions in Italy,” says Donato, “and then give them the recipes to go home and do it themselves.”

Sourcing the right ingredients shouldn’t be a problem either. Donato spent much of last year picking the best producers of wine, cheese, olive oil and other gourmet products from the 20 regions of Italy. Most of them are now available in Hawaii. To sign up for classes and to find out more about Donato’s products or how to travel to Italy with him, go to http://www.flavorsofitalydop.com

And there might still be time to catch one of America’s most-respected authorities on Italian food and cooking as Lynne Rossetto Kasper comes to town this weekend. She’ll be lecturing on the history of Italian food and food traditions at The Halekulani this coming Sunday from 4 to 6 p.m. For $75 per person, guests will enjoy an interactive lecture and slideshow presentation, a food and wine reception and will each receive a copy of her award-winning book, The Splendid Table: Recipes from Emilia-Romagna, the Heartland of Northern Italian Food (worth the price of admission as it is sold out at Borders and Barnes and Noble). For 10 years, Kasper researched the region of EmiliaRomagna, widely known for producing three of the country’s world-class foods: ParmigianoReggiano cheese, Prosciutto di Parma and true balsamic vinegar aged for decades and sipped as a liqueur. I had the opportunity to chat with Lynne earlier in the week and she is as enthusiastic and refreshingly passionate about food as anyone I’ve ever met. If you truly want a memorable experience, call and make a reservation, if you can. 931-5040. Mangiamo!

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Five-diamond Dining At La Mer

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Friday - December 29, 2006

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Anyone who’s eaten at La Mer knows that the restaurant is serious about food, wine and service. But no one knows it more than the people who matter. The Halekulani’s signature restaurant has just been awarded the AAA Five Diamond Award, making it the only restaurant in Hawaii to receive the honor.

There are thousands of restaurants in Hawaii - hundreds of really good ones, and at least a few dozen that I’d call fine dining of the highest quality. But none meets the incredibly strict standards set out by AAA.

“The standards are extremely high,” says Richard Valquez, AAA Hawaii regional manager, “and it takes considerable time and dedication on the part of our 65 full-time assessors to make sure that each hotel and restaurant is compliant in every area.”

Hotel and restaurant visits are anonymous, and the identity of the assessor is revealed only after the stay is complete. Only three hotels earned the award this year in Hawaii: The Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua and The Four Seasons Resort, Maui at Wailea.

“This is an extremely valuable tool for more than 49 million traveling AAA members around the world,” says Valquez, “and for the more than 100,000 members who travel each year to Hawaii.”

But at La Mer, though the award is nice, it’s just another part of doing business in a first-class way. “Of course it’s fabulous to be recognized,” says food and beverage director Sabine Glissmann. “The Five Diamond Award is extremely prestigious, and it definitely draws clientele who travel and pay attention to these kinds of details.”

But for Glissmann and the staff at La Mer, the everyday details are what make the restaurant great. “The way we see it is, if you have a fine-dining restaurant, then these are the standards you should keep up on a daily basis,” she says, “whether anyone is grading you or not.”

Still, it’s nice to have 17 years of awards that say you’re doing everything right. The exhaustive list of AAA criteria includes everything from curb appeal to floor coverings and, of course, the menu. What makes La Mer’s consistent rating so exceptional is that more than 180 restaurants in Hawaii were surveyed last year with no other restaurants reaching Five Diamond status.

For Glissmann, the daily work continues. Have lunch with her and she’s adjusting the tablecloth, rearranging the flowers and subtly signaling to the wait staff when she feels something needs attention. But just like the service, it’s all done in an incredibly unobtrusive manner. But even the very cool Glissmann breathes a sigh of relief each year when the awards come out. “Absolutely it’s a relief,” she says, laughing. “It’s always good to know that you’ve achieved what you set out to.”

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Chinese Food With A Difference

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Friday - December 22, 2006

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XO Seafood Restaurant’s menu and decor
reflect the confidence, style and versatility of
chef/owner Raymond Chau

You know as soon as you walk into XO Seafood Restaurant that it’s not your average Chinese restaurant. For a start, there are comfortable chairs. And the ubiquitous fish tank, which in other restaurants is home to lobsters languishing behind dirty walls in murky waters, fits seamlessly into a slate wall as part of the calming décor.

And if the orange soft chairs and the white linen tablecloths don’t impress you, the menu and the service should. Rib Eye Steak, Yin and Yan Poke, Mongolian Lamb Ribs and Twin Abalone Shell Fish are just a couple of the specialties of the house. That’s not to say you won’t find an outstanding Honey Walnut Shrimp, a seriously spiced Ma Po Tofu or some comforting Egg Foo Yung, but for the most part the menu is a showcase for the versatility of chef/owner Raymond Chau, and not just a vehicle to churn out bland and boring local favorites.

Chau has spent a long time learning his trade, and he knows that there are certain dishes that stand the test of time.

“In a Chinese restaurant, you’ll always have people who want to see certain traditional dishes,” he says. “But today they are also looking for something a little bit different, more exciting.”

Chau’s had a loyal following through each of his Honolulu restaurant projects (Won Kee, Chi Chau, Raymond Chau’s Restaurant and A-1), but it’s here on busy Kapiolani Boulevard that he seems to have found his home.

“I’ve worked with many different chefs,” he says, “every-where from China to Amsterdam to New York. And you learn a lot by watching individual styles.”

Chau’s dishes are highly spiced, with multi-leveled flavor, not common in Chinese restaurants in Hawaii. His XO chili sauce and barbecue sauce are among the best I’ve tasted. Made from scratch (with ingredients that include dried shrimp, scallops, ham and chili pepper) the XO sauce is a bold accompaniment to several dishes.

And Chau’s confidence and style can be seen too in the bold décor of the restaurant (burnt orange is the color he chose for the walls, the menu, chair coverings and his business cards) and on the first few pages of the menu.

“We’re kinda doing it a little upscale,” he says modestly. First-time diners should try the rib eye - it’s served sizzling on a platter, pupu-style, with the aforementioned sensational sauce, or order the steamed onaga. The fish is steamed with traditional Chinese ingredients (ginger, green onion, garlic) but served as a filet and not whole.

“We’re trying to get people to eat more fish - serving it in a different way.”

There are recognizably more traditional dishes too - the honey walnut shrimp is seriously good - but if you want a taste of a Chinese restaurant that’s really doing something different go to XO for the specialties of the house. Where else are you going to find Mongolian Lamb Ribs marinated in rosemary and rock salt and served with a homemade barbecue sauce?

Oh, and parking is easy, just pull into the lot to the side of the restaurant shared with Quiksilver.

XO Seafood Restaurant 1718 Kapiolani Blvd.(opposite the Convention Center)

942-2020

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Going Big On American Food 24-7

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Friday - December 15, 2006

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MAC 24-7 executive chef Ray Dasalla with
some of the restaurant’s outsized portions

I can’t remember the last time I ate in a restaurant after midnight. These days I fall asleep almost as soon as our children do, and my restaurant visits are mostly done during day and early evening hours. But I still remember many nights in our pre-parenting days heading off to a diner at 3 in the morning hungry for breakfast.

But 24-hour restaurants are few and far between in Honolulu. Wailana Coffee House and Liliha Bakery are the two that come first to mind, along with Eggs ‘n’ Things in Waikiki.

Now you can add another to your list. MAC 24-7 opened appropriately enough at midnight last Friday, and a couple hundred guests enjoyed a taste of the varied menu into the early hours of the morning. The 21st century diner is located in the new Hilton Waikiki Prince Kuhio hotel; the MAC stands for modern American cooking, the 24-7? Well, hopefully, that’s obvious.

I stopped by last week to take a look at the menu and décor and was quite impressed. There’s an up-market diner feel to the large dining room, with garden views, floor-to-ceiling windows and a cool color scheme that manages to make orange, purple and silver look perfect together. There’s a 68-foot-long bar where guests can watch sports on 50-foot plasma TV screens while they decide on breakfast, lunch or dinner.

“We’re definitely offering comfort food,” says director of restaurants Marina Jones, “but what people are going to find is that everything from the menu to the décor to the service has been very creatively designed and thoughtfully put together.”

What that means is there are recognizable dishes on the menu (saimin, pancakes and cupcakes) that look nothing like the ones you’re used to.

Feel like a pancake? You’d better be hungry. MAC 24-7’s stacks are 14 inches in diameter and about 8 inches high.

“They’re the size of a cocktail tray,” says Marina.

Indeed they are.

In fact they’re so big they are probably going to seem quite grotesque to anyone with a normal appetite. I couldn’t face eating one if you paid me - and I do get paid to eat such things. I had a sample of the Elvis (three giant pancakes stuffed with bacon and peanut butter) and can think of nothing I’d like less for breakfast. There are some giant-sized cupcakes too, so big they seem like something Alice would find on her breakfast table in Wonderland. I’m sure, however, that most people will love them.

The sumo-sized saimin is truly a bowl of soup fit for someone with a gargantuan appetite and certainly could feed two or three people, so bring a friend. The menu has been well-designed, and features everything from root beer floats to traditional breakfast, a Japanese breakfast, soups, salads, pasta and some terrific sandwiches.

Value is exceptional. There are just a couple of menu items more than $20 (lobster pot pie, New York steak and seared ahi) but everything else is between $7 and $13. I didn’t try the sweet and smokey pulled pork sandwich with cheese ($12), but I will next time I go.

There’s free valet parking , so MAC 24-7 is an easy destination, free from the usual parking woes of Waikiki.

Although it somehow has the look of a chain restaurant, the concept and design are entirely unique to Hawaii and the Hilton Prince Kuhio. Anyone who’s looking for comfort food at a reasonable price, hot saimin on a rainy day, breakfast anytime or a hot fudge banana split at 2 a.m. should find what they’re looking for at MAC 24-7.

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Going Big On American Food 24-7

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MAC 24-7 executive chef Ray Dasalla with
some of the restaurant’s outsized portions

But 24-hour restaurants are few and far between in Honolulu. Wailana Coffee House and Liliha Bakery are the two that come first to mind, along with Eggs ‘n’ Things in Waikiki.

What that means is there are recognizable dishes on the menu (saimin, pancakes and cupcakes) that look nothing like the ones you’re used to.

Feel like a pancake? You’d better be hungry. MAC 24-7’s stacks are 14 inches in diameter and about 8 inches high.

“They’re the size of a cocktail tray,” says Marina.

Indeed they are.

There’s free valet parking , so MAC 24-7 is an easy destination, free from the usual parking woes of Waikiki.

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Creating A Gingerbread Hotel

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Friday - December 08, 2006

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Each year executive chef Rolf Bauer constructs a
gingerbread rendition of the Sheraton Moana Surfrider

There’s nothing better than watching Honolulu get ready for Christmas. The city is dressed so beautifully for the holidays that it doesn’t take more than a trolley ride downtown to get even those Scrooges among us into the spirit of sharing and giving.

If you’re in need of a prompt to get into the seasonal spirit this year, try a visit to a couple of island-style winter wonderlands. The Sheraton Moana Surfrider has always been one of my favorite places to visit during the holidays, not least because of the dedication of executive chef Rolf Bauer, who each year creates a gingerbread facsimile of the

Moana Surfrider, complete with snow, tiny wreaths, lights, rocking chairs and nutcracker statues on the lanai. The hotel sits within a model village made entirely from gingerbread. Bauer begins preparations in November when he builds Styrofoam dummies for all the houses in the village. Each house is then painted with chocolate - the “mortar” that keeps the gingerbread bricks together, and then decorated.

“The Moana Surfrider dummy is the only one we keep each year,” says Bauer. “It’s made from wood, but has to be rebuilt every year after the chocolate, gingerbread and icing have all been removed.” All of the other buildings, including cable cars, ski lifts, churches, train stations and houses, are built each year from scratch.

It’s painstaking work (the setup alone can take anywhere from 12 to 16 hours), but for Bauer and his helpers, the reward is in the faces of their guests. “It’s wonderful to see the smiles of the little, and the not-so-little, kids,” says Bauer.

You can visit the Sheraton Moana Surfrider anytime during the holidays, but if you really want to experience an exceptional Christmas treat, have afternoon tea on the veranda - if the sounds of Christmas at the Sheraton can’t get you in the holiday spirit, then nothing can.

At the Hale Koa Hotel, Cheryl Apo may not bake the decorations, but she puts as much love and passion into her annual displays as Chef Bauer does his gingerbread creations. The winter wonderland she creates each year is something that guests anxiously anticipate.

“We have people who plan their annual vacation around the time the decorations go up,” she says, “so we have to make sure we never disappoint.”

And the Hale Koa decorations are enjoyed by so many guests that many of them donate a toy or a trinket before they leave.

“I think that part of the fun for our guests is looking for their contribution each time they return,” says Cheryl.

And finally, the feel-good event of the season for me is the annual Miracle on Merchant Street, where Murphy’s Bar and Grill offers free food and trolley rides to anyone stopping by with a new, unwrapped toy. This heart-warming event is a benefit for Hawaii Children’s Cancer Foundation and the Ronald McDonald House, and takes place this year on Dec. 13. For more information, call 531-0422.

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Poking Around Town For The Best Poke

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Friday - December 01, 2006

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Nico Chaize

The holiday season brings with it an increase in the price of ahi and other coveted fish for New Year’s, so it’s a good time to load up on poke and enjoy before the seasonal pricing goes sky high.

There are a number of fabulous poke centers around Honolulu, almost all of them retain an air of rustic charm alongside the smell of fish.

Tropics Fish and Vegetable offers a huge range of homemade poke (many of them made by owner Glenn Tanoue’s mother, Katherine “Mama K”), and there’s a daily display of up to 20 different types within the grocery store at Ward Farmers Market. I love to shop here. It’s definitely food shopping of a completely different kind. There are buckets of homemade kim chee out on the store floor, local eggs, fruits and vegetables straight from the farm, a ton of ethnic foods and a wide range of fresh fish. Tropics is one of the largest fish distributors in the state, so there’s always a plentiful supply of fish straight from the morning auction.

And speaking of the fish auction - I just can’t wait for the day when there’s a fish market right there at the harbor. Imagine driving over to the auction house and then being able to buy fresh fillets or whole fish to take home?

For now, Nico Chaize does an incredible job of catering to huge breakfast and lunchtime crowds. If you haven’t been to Nico’s Pier 38 location, you’re missing out on some wonderful fresh fish dishes, a great burger and the experience of eating breakfast or lunch harborside.

One of my favorite places to go for amazingly priced fish and poke is Monarch Seafood on Kalihi Street. I don’t think the prices have increased since the mid 1990s, and the quality of the fish and other local favorites is outstanding. I might be wrong, but I’m sure the first time I ordered Furikake Salmon, somewhere around 1998, it was the same price ($6.95) it is today.

Monarch is strictly a take-out and catering operation, and while the staff is friendly, they’re making everything from scratch in the back, so the service is not exactly super fast. Not that it bothers the regular customers, many of whom stand in line eating their orders of poke (a selection of fresh poke including spicy ahi, aku limu and ahi shoyu are on refrigerated display as you walk into the store) while they wait.

Try Monarch’s Ahi Katsu with Creamy Wasabi Sauce ($7.50), or the Spicy Firecracker Chicken ($6.50). Non-fish dishes are a testament to the local palate and include Kalua Pig ($5.95), Roasted Garlic Chicken ($5.95), Mochiko Chicken ($5.95) and Hamburger Steak ($5.95). All lunches come with Nalo Greens salad, potato macaroni salad and white or brown rice. I don’t know how they manage to serve such great quality food at such reasonable prices, but anyone who’s a regular here will tell you that Monarch is one of the best-kept secrets for value and great food in Honolulu.

Tamura’s is another favorite place for a poke stop. At Tamura’s Waialae store there are more than 30 different types of poke on display daily, and “poke master” Robin Hashimoto says he has up to 35 different kinds in his repertoire. Recipes change daily, depending on the availability of a variety of fish. Robin has been making poke professionally since the 1980s, and on an average day at the Tamura’s poke counter he’ll go through about 40 pounds of fish.

If you’d rather have your fish cooked before you eat it, take a trip out to 99 Ranch Market, where they’ll deep-fry almost anything you buy while you continue to shop.

Now brace yourselves for the New Year’s Eve ahi prices, and enjoy!

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The Many Charms Of Chinatown

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Friday - November 24, 2006

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The HASR Wine Co. shares a courtyard with Grand
Cafe and Bakery in Chinatown

There’s nothing better than being able to walk to restaurants. Parking your car and then wandering from one place to another, checking out menus pinned in restaurant doorways, and reading haphazardly cut newspaper reviews posted to windows and yellowing with age is a huge part of the experience of eating out for me. That’s why I love to go home to Europe. You don’t think about taking a car into the center of Edinburgh or Paris - you jump on the Metro or a bus if you need to, or walk. If we ever get our mass transit problems sorted out, I’ll look forward to more areas becoming like Chinatown, one of the great walking neighborhoods in Honolulu.

Shopping for food in Chinatown is such a life affirming experience - ironic, I know, when you’re surrounded by dead ducks hanging in store windows, lobster and crab in tanks waiting to be served up for lunch, and whole pigs roasting on spits, but I hope you know what I mean. Chinatown is full of life and noise, color and glorious food. Floury soft noodles, hot manapua, sweet and sticky char siu, fresh pastries and restaurants that specialize in everything from stir-fried sea cucumber to sizzling black cod. If you really want to see the food that makes Hawaii special, then Chinatown’s the place to start. And if you want to see the changing face of Chinatown, no better place to head for than the corner of Pauahi and Smith.

Start with Little Village Noodle House, the beautiful Chinese “finer” dining restaurant owned by the Chan family. Try their black pepper beef, orange chicken or Singapore rice noodles for a taste of some of the dishes that have made this restaurant an absolute favorite of the downtown business crowd and late-night theatergoers.

Mei Sum Dim Sum (on the corner of Pauahi and Smith) remains my favorite dim sum spot of all time. The variety of the dim sum, speed of service, freshness of those wonderful piping hot “little pieces of the heart” can’t be beat - and Mei Sum’s dim sum service is now so popular they serve until 7:45 p.m.

Across the street and next to one of the municipal parking lots is Grand Café and Bakery. Here’s a real piece of Hawaii restaurant history. Ti Chong Ho founded the original Grand Café and bakery in 1923. Today, Mr. Ho’s great-grandson, Anthony Vierra, is executive chef at the helm of this neighborhood restaurant/bakery that has gained a reputation for quality and excellence - particularly at breakfast. Plagued with the problems of too many customers and not enough trained staff in its early days, Grand Café has settled into a nice routine where the food is consistently good and the service is delightful - if you manage to avoid the lunchtime rush.

The corner of Pauahi and Maunakea is home to one of the best Thai restaurants in town, Sweet Basil, and just around the corner from Grand Café (the two share a courtyard) is the HASR wine store.

HASR, (the acronym means Highly Allocated, Spoiled Rotten - a reference to the wines and the people able to afford them, presumably) brings an element that seems to tie these spots together. The courtyard wouldn’t look out of place anywhere in Europe. There’s a seating area outside of Grand Café where you can enjoy lunch, and HASR hosts a series of wine tastings where guests mingle, taste new wines and get a sense of how cool this tiny area of Chinatown has now become.

On the corner of Pauahi and Nuuanu, the former Havana Cabana is set to become an “American” restaurant; a partnership between the owners of Little Village and Grand Café, my sources say, and across one more block on Bethel, the delightful Soul De Cuba has gained a loyal following since opening earlier this year.

With First Fridays, events at The Arts at Mark’s Garage and a holiday season of performances at Hawaii Theatre, there’s no better place for a lively taste of Honolulu than Chinatown.

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An Elegant, Decadent Patisserie

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Friday - November 17, 2006

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Patisserie La Palme D’Or store manager Glen Constantino and
Chef Kei Taniguchi

Don’t be surprised if you walk past Patisserie La Palme D’Or the first time you go in search of its fine baked goods. You can smell the aroma of freshly baked pastries as soon as you get into the Ala Moana Center parking lot (mauka side near Macy’s), but like me, you might mistake the gorgeous patisserie for one of those designer showrooms selling outrageously priced jewelry, and just keep on walking.

The interior of La Palme D’Or has more in common with Cartier than with any bakery you’ve ever seen. Refrigerated glass jewelry cases have been adapted to protect the exquisite cakes from heat, and offer a clear view of their detailed beauty.

La Palme D’Or opened at the end of June and word is beginning to spread.

Glen Constantino is the store manager. He worked in the restaurant business before coming here, and it’s obvious that he loves the effect the store has on new customers.

“People are just amazed when they see what we have,” he says. Patisserie La Palme D’Or is the sister to a well-known French restaurant in Japan of the same name. “Because our cooking is mainly French-inspired, the pastries are traditional - but with a lighter, more Japanese influence,” Glen says.

There are gift boxes, ready for the holidays, individually packaged cakes like Madeleines, fresh fruit desserts, Christmas cakes and a chocolate gateaux that chef promises will “bring you to your knees!” Chocoholics, resist if you can.

All cakes are packed in boxes, sealed with an elegant Palme D’Or seal and chilled with a mini ice pack in each box. You can even purchase pastries and pick them up when you’ve finished shopping at Ala Moana.

Pastry chef Kai Taniguchi has been baking for more than 17 years, and began at La Palme D’Or’s flagship restaurant in Japan.

“It’s a little different baking in Hawaii,” he admits. “Everything needs to be considered - the flour is different, the eggs, the temperature.”

Nonetheless, the chef is making some of the most divine-looking pastries in town.

His favorite is the Gtteu Rooule (roll cake), a light, silky swirl of cream and custard enveloped in a sweet sponge cake. One of the most beautiful creations is the Maccha - a green tea and white chocolate cream cake atop a dark chocolate mousse crust. And while the cakes sound irresistible, their presentation makes them look almost unreal. I thought that the tiny fresh fruit cups on top of a custard base were examples of that cheerfully plastic food that the Japanese make so well to illustrate sushi bar items. “No,” says Glen, “everything’s real.”

Prices start at about $3.50-$4.50 for individual cakes, and special orders are being taken for holiday items.

If you’re burdened with a sweet tooth or know someone who is, a visit to Patisserie La Palme D’Or should leave you delirious.

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Serving Up Plantation-style Aloha

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Friday - November 10, 2006

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Brian Y. shows off a pineapple pie and Angie S. holds a
pineapple grown on Helemano Plantation

In the 14 years I’ve lived in Hawaii, I’ve driven past Helemano Plantation more times than I can remember. Last week I finally decided to stop and go inside for lunch. What I discovered was more than a place offering a good value meal, I found a place where that elusive aloha spirit thrives.

There’s a canteen-style dining room on the 45-acre property where lunch is served daily from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. There’s a breakfast service (loco moco, scrambled eggs, homemade pastries) that begins at 8 a.m. at the adjacent Bake Shop, and on Sundays there’s a brunch that begins at 10 a.m. At first glance, Helemano’s dining room looks functional and institutional, but if you look past the Formica tables, the cash register and the lines of chaffing dishes, you’ll see a heart-warming sight - a staff that cares about every customer, servers so proud to come to work that they rarely take a day off, and a menu that features fruits and vegetables grown right here on the rural property.

ORI (Opportunities for the Retarded Inc.) was founded in 1980 by Susanna Cheung, and Helemano Plantation, with its residential center for the mentally disabled and restaurant where clients could gain real work experience, was completed just four years later.

“There are nine homes on the 45 acres here,” says program director Yvonne de Luna, “and everything that is done with regard to the restaurant and the bake shop (apart from the cooking) is done by clients.”

There are about 15-20 clients working in the restaurant, and another group of trained workers who travel to Schofield Barracks each day to work there.

“Everyone is very proud of the work we do here,” says PR director Ron Renshaw. “Our clients take their jobs very seriously, and they get quite territorial about their positions. They feel that if they can’t be here, then the work won’t be done as well!”

I know many restaurant owners pray for such dedicated staff.

The $8.50, all-you-can-eat buffet lunch varies daily, but there’s a standard Chinese style to most of the dishes. There’s a salad bar and a dessert station, and Cheung, an excellent cook in her own right, often previews her newest dishes at the buffet line. When I was there last week, I tasted incredibly good short ribs in a red wine reduction that Cheung told me she’d perfected after eating Roy Yamaguchi’s version. The kitchen staff also makes excellent char siu pork - so good that I took a box home with me after lunch.

The vegetable garden provides most of the produce for the restaurant, and if you really want to pick up something special for the holidays then order one of Helemano’s homemade fresh pineapple or coconut pies.

“We don’t make them for everyday sale,” says Yvonne, “but if you call to order, then we’ll make them specially.” I loved the fresh pineapple pie, with its chunky, sweet pieces of North Shore pineapple beneath a perfect, flaky crust. They’d make a really different addition to your Thanksgiving table this year.

This is such a unique part of Hawaii that everyone should visit. I’m ashamed to say it took me so long to get there and that my preconceived notions about the restaurant had little bearing on the great work that actually goes on here each day.

If you want to see a restaurant where people care as much about each other as they do about their food, then make the drive to Helemano Plantation.

Helemano Plantation 64-1510 Kamehameha Hwy. Wahiawa 622-3929

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The True Value Of Wine Dinners

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Friday - November 03, 2006

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I went to a wine dinner the other night for the first time in months, and I was reminded of what great value they can be, especially when you’re looking to learn more about wine. The supermarket aisles can be a baffling place to go shopping for a bottle of something tasty- and many people end up picking a bottle because the color is right and the label looks vaguely familiar.

Knowing what to look for is much more satisfying. The best way to find out what works for you - because the most important thing you can learn about wine is to drink what you like - is to taste first, ask questions and then buy. But while the more specialized wine stores like Tamura’s, Fujioka’s, R. Field at Foodland, The Wine Stop, etc. have frequent free tastings, wine shopping at a supermarket isn’t really like going to Bubbies for ice cream. There’s no one handing out samples to see what you think.

That’s why wine dinners can be really useful. They can also be incredibly boring. I can’t tell you how many dinners I’ve sat through where the winemaker talks too much or the food isn’t all that great. But when they’re good, as in the case of last week’s Robert Mondavi dinner at Sam Choy’s Diamond Head, they can be really fun and worthwhile. So, pick your wine events carefully, take notes if you can, and ask a lot of questions.

Make sure that you’re getting value for money, too. Set dinners can be pricey, but many renowned wineries keep the price around $50-$70, and you can find a few great value dinners for less. Pupu and wine parties are almost always the best value, and they’re generally the most relaxed, too.

There’s a fabulous wine party at Longhi’s once in a while, where people who really love wine (led by Charlie Longhi) taste about five different varietals. For $30 you get your own pupu platter along with the wines. Longhi’s general manager Mary Ann Bowman says the parties are so much fun that people often don’t want to leave.

“Our guests have great food, taste fabulous wines, meet new people and listen to the Paradise String Quartet,” she says.

What’s not to love?

Longhi’s has an award-winning wine list that includes an Award of Excellence from the Wine Spectator, given only to restaurants with top class wine selections. The next wine party is Nov. 7 at 6.30 p.m. I’d say it was easily one of the best value, most fun wine events out there - but seating is limited. One of the things I love about this November wine pairing is that the wines have been chosen to go particularly well with holiday foods. You’ll taste the Wolfberger NV Rose (sparkling wine), Picpoul de Pinet 2005 (a crisp white wine with unusually sharp grapefruit and lime flavors), Angeline Pinot Noir 2005 (perfect with turkey!), Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, and the beautiful Justin Obtuse 2005 (a gorgeously chocolatey, raspberry dessert wine).

You can’t beat the price of $30. If you’re just beginning to get into wine, gather a group and head for Longhi’s - I think you’ll love it. If you’re already a bit of a connoisseur, I think you’ll enjoy the variety of wines on offer and the fun, relaxed atmosphere. Call 947-9899 for more information.

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Craving Italian Comfort Food

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Friday - October 27, 2006

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Auntie Pasto’s owner Ed Wary

Sometimes there’s just nothing as comforting as an old familiar face - or a restaurant that’s been around a while. Some weeks I feel as if I’m just running from fancy new restaurant to even fancier, without taking a break to stop and smell the beef stew, and it’s no secret to anyone who reads these columns regularly that I’m at my happiest in restaurants that offer great food and good value. And while some of the new restaurants opening in Honolulu are exciting and different, there’s no truer testament to success than a place that’s been around a while.

Auntie Pasto’s owner, Ed Wary, isn’t trying to run the fanciest restaurant in town; what he does is offer Italian American food in an extremely welcoming environment, with a young, friendly and, for the most part, fast and efficient staff.

Auntie Pasto’s is one of my husband Bobby’s favorite restaurants - and he loves to go there on rainy nights. We stopped by, mid-downpour, the other night en route to the airport. Marinated mushrooms, water and bread appeared a minute after we were seated, and we settled in to people-watch. At Auntie Pasto’s, life is decidedly on the casual side. Look around as you sip a glass of wine and you’ll see an eclectic group of all ages. During our wait for appetizers I noted an older lady dining with a young male companion, a pregnant woman with her partner and two friends, two gray-haired, pony-tailed men, a family of five with three young children, a single guy sitting at the bar, a mother and her young daughter waiting for takeout, a group of six with two babies and a toddler between them, a 30-something woman alone and reading a book while she ate, and a middle-aged European man with a limited working knowledge of English having the menu explained to him patiently and pleasantly by the girl behind the bar. And that was all without turning to look behind me.

Tables turn fast at Auntie Pasto’s, and it struck me that people enjoy coming here because their expectations are met. They leave feeling that they’ve had the experience they came for - and that’s what dining out should be about, no matter how much or how little you choose to pay for your meal and service. I’ve often said that Auntie Pasto’s is one of the great first date spots in town, because of its reliability, food and easy ambiance.

In case you’ve been living with your head in the sand for the past 20 years, Auntie Pasto’s serves American Italian comfort food. There’s no pretension that this is authentic regional Italian food, it’s the kind of food that Wary - and millions of second and third generation Italian Americans - grew up with: spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and eggplant Parmesan. The menu is comforting in both its wide range of simple choices and its price point. Entrees start at about $9, and for $10.95 you can have a plate of spaghetti piled high with a selection of seafood.

I had the sausage and peppers with spaghetti for $8.95, we split a large Caesar salad, had a nice bottle of Chianti (the wine list has really improved in the past couple of years), Bobby had the seafood pasta, and I took the leftovers home for lunch.

With its red-checkered tablecloths, distinctive black-and-white menu board and noisy, open kitchen, Auntie Pasto’s on Beretania is a refuge for those who enjoy simple fare in a busy, vibrant atmosphere, rainy night or not.

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Appreciating The Art Of Lunch

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Friday - October 20, 2006

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The quickest way to establish yourself as one of those ladies who lunch (if that’s where your aspirations lie) is to make a reservation at the Honolulu Academy of Arts Pavilion Café.

Where I come from, museums and art galleries are the bastion of students, bearded poets and senior citizens who take advantage of reduced rates at both the cafeterias and the galleries themselves. Even at the most prestigious art museums in Europe, I’ve always lunched among a pretty eclectic crowd. But it seems that the Pavilion Café has a more specific audience. You’ll see what I mean when you get there.

The menu is a fabulously well-balanced mix of light, Mediterranean-style dishes and fresh, local ingredients, and lunch here is incredibly good. The restaurant seats about 100 people, with the outdoor tables shaded by the boughs of a 100-year-old monkeypod tree. The Pavilion Café has been around for more than a decade, but renovations to the building in recent years (largely the design of talented chef/owner Mike Nevin) have resulted in a beautiful open room with views of a waterfall, the Doris Duke Theater and the impressive sculptures of Jun Kaneko. Teak furniture, stone floors and potted plants on every table give the room a tremendous vibrancy, and with the prominence given to local produce, I was impressed by the feeling of “life” the restaurant has.

The wait staff is fairly pleasant, although you can tell that they get their share of demanding customers who are not happy that they have to wait for tables (make a reservation here before you go as it’s almost always fully booked). Our waitress did a good job of explaining the menu, and the staff is pretty good at anticipating needs. There’s none of that “you’re-not-my-problem” evasiveness that prevails at so many Honolulu restaurants.

One thing to note: If you like quiet lunchtime conversation, be warned - it’s really noisy. With the waterfall, the constant stream of people walking in and out of the café, and the echoes from the tiled floor, it’s not a place to have a whispered conversation. It’s so noisy, in fact, that I found myself repeating questions to my lunch date who, as far as I know, isn’t deaf. But it’s the best kind of noise - the noise of life happening around you.

I loved the Nicoise Salad ($12.95) with seared coriander, crusted ahi and roasted shallot vinaigrette, and the Warm Big Island Goat Cheese and Nalo Green Salad topped with a seasonal fruit and honey thyme vinaigrette is delightful ($10.95).

We also tried the White Bean Salad - a refreshing blend of arugula, white beans and wilted radicchio with shiitake mushrooms and a balsamic vinaigrette with Reggiano cheese.

There are soups, sandwiches and a different pasta dish each day (we had a pleasant but unre-markable Portuguese Bean Soup) and there are new menu additions every few months or so. A must-try item is the fabulous Piadina ($9.95), an Italian grilled flatbread with arugula, tomatoes, cucumber, basil, garlic, fresh mozzarella and prosciutto. I ordered the Anaheim Peppers too (my appetite has more in common with a construction worker than a lady who lunches, and the menu is definitely on the light and healthy side), but wasn’t impressed with the abundance of oil and overwhelming presence of garlic - although I love anchovies and there were plenty of those.

If you leave room for dessert, you should definitely try the wonderful Chocolate Pot De Crème ($5.95), or treat yourself to a sundae made with gelato or sorbet and topped with candied ginger or strawberries.

The Pavilion Café is open Tuesday through Saturday for lunch only, although I’m sure there must be hundreds of customers who’ve begged Nevin to open for dinner. Make a reservation before you go (532-8734) - or figure in a leisurely tour of the museum while you wait. There’s no admission charge to the Art Academy if you’re just going for lunch, and there’s lots of easy, metered parking on neighboring streets.

And while Nevin’s menu is no secret to most - I’m sure there are many of you who’ll love discovering this delightful lunch spot for the first time.

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Wednesday Wine Nights At E&O

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Friday - October 13, 2006

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Kenwei Chong

There’s no doubt that a really good bottle of wine can add much to a meal, but sometimes the cost of buying such a bottle in a restaurant can be prohibitive. Wines by the glass can help cut the cost of an otherwise hefty check, but sometimes you just really want to enjoy a whole bottle. Here’s how you can. At E&O Trading Company, the South East Asian restaurant at Ward Centre, there’s 50 percent off all wines (excluding champagne) on Wednesdays.

“We wanted to find a way to encourage people who’d perhaps not tried us out yet,” says co-owner Kenwei Chong. “And certainly the wine program is proving to be a great success.” So much so, that wine lovers are ordering some of the restaurant’s award-winning wines - and saving a bunch. “We had a group here last week and they could-n’t believe the price for a bottle of Silver Oak Cabernet. It’s usually $130 a bottle, so at 50 per cent off, they had a great time and ordered several bottles.”

That’s the way to approach a wine special night. Don’t look for the cheapest bottle on the list (but it’s $22 in case you’re wondering), look for something that you wouldn’t normally be able to try. The Trevor Jones Chardonnay for example is a wonderful wine, full of bright tones, tropical fruit and the signature depth and body that Jones, a passionate and decidedly fun Australian wine maker brings to all of his highly allocated wines. At $15 a bottle on Wednesday evening, it’s cheaper than you’d be able to find at retail, and it’s an excellent pairing for some of E&O’s Southeast Asian dishes. Or try the Joseph Phelps ‘02 Cabernet Sauvignon,from Napa Valley. A marvelously rich, robust wine with great body and a very smooth finish, it’s just $37.50 on wine night.

“We’ve had such a great reaction to the wines on the list,” says Kenwei, “the 50 percent off promotion is creating a lot of excitement. It’s a great way for groups of wine lovers to get together and try something exceptional that perhaps might normally be a little out of their reach.”

Like the Silver Oak, or even Far Niente, Chardonnay. But if you really want to go for incredible value for money, the Marquis Philips ‘03 Cabernet would be hard to resist. This wine is a great value wine any day of the week, but Wednesdays at E&O it’s just $16 a bottle.

If you haven’t been to E&O, I can promise you’ll love the décor. Silk fabrics, wooden artifacts and warm, vibrant wall colors give an impression of the East as soon as you walk through the doorway. It’s the perfect place to relax after work with a group of friends and enjoy some excellent food and wine values unlike any others in town this month.

There’s no word yet on how long the promotion will last, so grab a good friend and head on over for a glass or two of something special.

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Another Kalapawai In Kailua

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Friday - October 06, 2006

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In food terms, Kailua is a happening place. Dozens of new restaurants have moved there in the past couple of years, and while the town might still have its share of fast food places, today it’s full of eclectic little eateries offering myriad dining opportunities.

There’s an amazing energy about the town itself, with construction happening on almost every corner, and it has a beachy, laid-back atmosphere that isn’t replicated anywhere else on the island. There’s a farmers market each Thursday evening that takes place in the parking lot behind Long’s, featuring many of the farmers that congregate on Saturday mornings at KCC. Here, fresh produce and flowers are sold directly by the people who grow them, and ready-made meals are served (perfect for take-out dinner) along with guest chef appearances and live music. If you haven’t ever been, it’s worth a trip one Thursday evening.

But the place that probably best represents the growing foodie culture in Kailua is one of the most original stores. Don Dymond’s Kalapawai Market has been in business for a little over 70 years, and while much has changed about the store itself, the market somehow manages to blend together a little of old Hawaii with the new.

When Dymond took over in the early 1990s, he began turning the business from a sleepy grocery store into a mini food and wine emporium, at the same time creating the ultimate meeting place for everybody and anybody. Go early in the morning to pick up the paper and a cup of freshly brewed coffee, and you can sit outside watching the surfing world walk by. Aloha shirt-clad businessmen stand in line next to windsurfers headed over to Lanikai for the day.

There’s great energy in this little store that encompasses everything a true neighborhood spot should be. It has grocery, beach and sundry items next to fresh produce from local farms, a great selection of wine, freshly roasted Hawaii-grown coffee and a deli counter serving sandwiches and salads of excellent quality. The atmosphere is so laid back and welcoming, and truly reflective of a small town general store, that I always half expect to see John Boy Walton drive around the corner in his truck and settle down with a latte and his notebook to begin documenting days in beachy Kailua. When I was there the other day, a huge box of slightly browning bananas sat inside the store with a handwritten note on top - “Free while they last.”

And such is the popularity of Kalapawai Market that it’s expanding to fairly glamorous new premises. Right in the center of Kailua (where the old L&L used to be) there’s a brand new Kalapawai Café and Deli, with the signature country style green paint and white fencing. The store should be open by mid-October, and even though it’s a bit of a drive from town, I can’t wait to visit.

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The Skinny On Shabu Shabu

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Friday - September 29, 2006

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Kristie Cachola and Tori Itamoto

A recent study of American eating habits showed that most of us are eating way too much. Going out for dinner can add thousands of calories to your daily intake, depending on the choices you make. That huge plate of pasta with Alfredo sauce you’ve been craving has more than enough calories for an entire day - and a quick stop at a fast food place for a burger or chicken nugget snack can add a ton of empty, unwanted calories.

If you’re watching your weight but enjoy eating out regularly, there’s an almost perfect way to eat - shabu shabu. The Japanese style of preparing thinly sliced meats, chicken or fish over a grill at your own table with accompanying platters of vegetables added to a simmering broth provides both an interesting way to eat - and a healthy one.

“Shabu shabu is a really good way for people who watch what they eat to enjoy lunch or dinner without adding too many extra calories,” says the enviably slim Kristie Cachola, co-owner of Shabu Shabu Time, located at the Sam Sung Plaza, off Keeaumoku Street.

Cachola and her partner, Tori Itamoto, are experts in the art of eating shabu shabu-style - they’ve eaten at every shabu shabu restaurant on the island.

“We’re addicted,” says Cachola, who spent the better part of the past few years eating in various shabu shabu restaurants.

“We ate shabu shabu four times a week for a couple of years,” says Cachola with a huge grin. “And we’d be eating at the various restaurants and eventually taking note of everything that we liked - and didn’t like - about each place.”

There’s a lot to love about the cook-it-yourself technique, and Cachola and Itamoto decided that they had something different to offer.

“We felt that the sauce and the quality of the meat were the things that set the good places apart,” she explains. “So we decided to open our own place and make our own sauces.”

Using friends and family as taste testers, and employing the talents of chef friends, the two created four signature sauces that have become a big hit with customers. But Cachola and Itamoto also wanted to operate a restaurant that appealed to customers looking for good food - and great value.

“We wanted to create a balance between the higher-end restaurants and the bottom end of the scale where you don’t get as good quality meat,” says Kristie.

Subsequently the set meals at Shabu Shabu Time start at $10.95 for lunch, with beef and pork sets costing just $2 more at dinner.

Prime Rib, Prime Rib and Shrimp, and Pork Loin and Clams all cost around $20.

“We’re using a really high quality beef,” says Kristie, “and people are just amazed at the value for money.”

Lunch specials come with rice and a vegetable platter that includes won bok, baby bok choy, choy sum, zucchini, tofu, kamaboko and udon noodles, and a choice of beef, pork or chicken, or a combination of meats.

A la carte items are also available and include homemade won ton, shrimp balls, clams, noodles, miso soup, gyoza, shrimp shumai and Spam.

“This is one of the healthiest ways to eat,” says Tori, “and it’s fun.”

Shabu Shabu Time 655 Keeaumoku St.

Sam Sung Plaza, Honolulu 941-1020 Lunch: daily 11a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner: Sunday through Thursday 5-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 p.m.-3 a.m.

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Lunchtime Wining And Dining

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Friday - September 22, 2006

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I was talking with renowned wine merchant Kermit Lynch recently about people who spend lots of money on wine. Lynch has been in the wine importing business for decades and is well-known and highly respected, but he expressed incredulity at the thought of spending $100 on a bottle of wine that would be drunk within an hour.

“Who are these people?” he asked. If he was looking to me for an answer, he found the wrong person. I know several people who do spend that much on wine, and on rare occasions I am able to share their finds. I think it’s fun and I appreciate it, but I get a much bigger thrill discovering great-tasting wines that cost less than $15 a bottle. I feel the same way - most of the time - about eating out.

A dinner this week at Chef Mavro (albeit a fundraiser) is $350 per person. That makes it one of the single most expensive restaurant seats in town. Apparently ticket sales were brisk and the restaurant had no difficulty selling the evening out. That’s $700 a couple, and about $150 in tips!

And while this special occasion dinner raised money for scholarships and culinary schools, fine dining in some restaurants is headed into the mortgage payment class. And not even in the most obvious, fancy places. I went to a newly renovated neighborhood restaurant last week and almost dropped the menu when I realized that the average entrée was $38, a la carte. This in a place where the furniture didn’t match, the napkins were paper and the waitress was clueless. I know that gas prices are high, fuel costs are up and the cost of importing certain items huge - but give us a break!

That’s why I love to lunch. At lunch, you can experience all of the service and succulence that makes a good restaurant great - at incredibly reduced prices. And, it’s a really good way to test the restaurant for those special event evenings. Lunch at Orchids, at the Halekulani, for example, is one of the best-kept secrets in the city. You experience the Zen-like calm of the hotel, the magnificent view from the dining room, and the same service that would cost you hundreds in the evening can be had for around $25 at lunch.

The same can be said of Yanni’s - the Greek restaurant at Restaurant Row. At lunch you can try almost any of the evening entrees at a tremendously reduced price. A $25 lunch, for example lets you sample entrees that include the fabulous Paidakia (lamb cutlets; $27.50 at dinner), along with a choice of appetizer (my favorite is the Mezze Platter of feta, olive, grilled vegetables and stuffed grape leaves; $15.50 at dinner). Lunch comes with a glass of wine or other beverage included in the $25 price. This is an easy and inexpensive way to sample Yanni Trainedes’ food.

“It’s a way to show people what we have to offer in the evening,” says Yanni. “Customers can sample our entrees and get a good idea of what our food and our atmosphere is all about.”

The Bistro at Century Center is another example of a place you can experience fine dining for a fraction of the evening price. The menu features classically inspired French and German dishes, with a bit of Pacific Rim style thrown in by talented chef Rodney Uyehara.

Each lunch entrée is just $15 - similar dishes in the evening are upwards of $35 - but at lunch you still get tuxedo-clad, slightly aloof waiters, a chance to enjoy the wood paneling, fine artwork and country house ambience, and the same view of the oft-mentioned $300,000 Steinway baby grand that sits in the lobby, all for a fraction of the evening price.

Seeking a fine-dining experience at lunch can literally save you hundreds of dollars - and I like to think of lunch as a taste test drive. If you leave thinking you can’t wait to go back, then the restaurant truly deserves your hard-earned dollars. If not, you’ve saved yourself a small fortune.

To hear an interview with Kermit Lynch, go to wineanddinehawaii.com and click on pod-casts

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A New Place For Pizza And Beer

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Friday - September 15, 2006

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Brew Moon GM Fred Gore with a
microbrew and wild mushroom pizza

Is there a food that inspires more passion and discussion than pizza? Perhaps - but certainly everyone has an opinion about how their perfect pizza should taste. There are so many varieties that even in Honolulu, a city not best known for its amazing pizza, it’s impossible to really say who has the best.

Pizza is truly a matter of personal taste. I, for example would rather eat a plate of pig’s ears (nicely grilled with a little sweet chili sauce on the side) than dive into a deep-dish, soggy, tomato-ey mess, but others swear that this “Chicago” pizza fits the one true definition. There’s an ad running somewhere right now that asks the question “Pizza or lasagna?” suggesting, I think, that their pizza is so thick it resembles the popular pasta dish. Pizza or lasagna! If the restaurant’s pizza resembles lasagna, I’m running as far from it as I can- and if their lasagna resembles pizza, then it’s been in the oven way too long.

But I appreciate that many people love the thick, doughy, cheesy versions that come mainly from the chain restaurants, so with that in mind, I’m recommending some very fine pizza I tasted last week - and hope that it matches your idea of a great pie.

Certainly if you like your pizza on the thin crust side, with gourmet-type toppings, then the new offerings at Brew Moon are extremely good.

“We have been looking at the menu closely,” says general manager Fred Gore, “and we asked ourselves what goes best with beer. The answer is really good pupu and pizza.”

Brew Moon, in case you’ve been living on another island for the past few years, is a microbrewery restaurant located at Ward Centre. Until recently they served a huge variety of food - but there was nothing you could really put your finger on when trying to describe it.

“It was a form of international, world cuisine, with dishes from a lot of different areas,” says Fred. “Now it’s food that you’d expect from a microbrewery restaurant.”

The menu has slimmed down considerably and now features interesting and tasty pupu, salads, sandwiches, a few specialty entrees, burgers and pizza.

The pizza is very good. At least the ones I tried were. The wild mushroom and basil one needs a bit more work, but the kalua pork and Thai chicken were really good. There’s a seemingly odd combination of Nalo Greens, balsamic vinegar and a little oil that works incredibly well - a bit like eating a gorgeous, freshly picked open sandwich. A new pizza oven and the hiring of an experienced chef from a nearby restaurant means the kitchen staff has been hard at work perfecting pizza dough for the past couple of weeks.

If you like your crusts ultra-thin and crisp, and enjoy toppings like garlic, goat cheese, truffle oil, spicy chicken or even salad, then you’ll love these. Paired with a cool beer from Brew Moon’s excellent selection, it makes the Ward Centre eatery more of a destination for food than ever before.

If you’re off to the movies this weekend, or want to take a break from shopping, then stop by and sample the new menu.

Of course, if you want your pizza to taste like lasagna, then you’d best look elsewhere.

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An Authentic Italian Experience

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Friday - September 08, 2006

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Sergio Mitrotti is owner, chef and artist at Café Sistina
Sergio Mitrotti is owner,
chef and artist at Café
Sistina

You’d think I’d be a pretty good person to ask to lunch. I eat out all the time - constantly running between restaurants taking pictures, tasting dishes and interviewing chefs.

But on some days I’m just as lost for inspiration as anyone. My friend Vicky called to set a lunch date last week, and we ran through and dismissed a dozen restaurants before we finally decided on one. Some we deemed “too busy,” others had no parking, others didn’t offer the food we were in the mood for. I actually drove into Chinatown to go to the restaurant we finally decided upon - and then called her after 15 minutes to say there wasn’t a parking space within five blocks.

“Meet me at Café Sistina,” I finally said, and we both breathed a sigh of relief. “Oh, Café Sistina - why didn’t I think of that?” she replied.

The first thing that’s important to know about lunch here is that the parking is easy and free. Pull into the First Interstate building from either King Street or Young Street and then enter the restaurant from either the side or front.

Café Sistina is an owner-occupied Italian restaurant. That’s to say Sergio Mitrotti owns it, cooks the food, invents new dishes, paints unbelievable reproductions of Michelangelo’s greatest works on the walls, chats with customers and can always be found somewhere between the bar, his scaffolding and the kitchen.

It’s very reassuring in a way. Just like the food.

The menu is divided into three sections that reflect the culinary influences of Sergio’s life thus far. His grandmother’s recipes are dishes that have remained unchanged for years. Classic, traditional Northern meat sauces, homemade sausage, rich, garlicky pesto and wonderful lasagna all come together to give an idea of some of the first dishes Sergio ever tasted at home in Turin. Try the incredibly good Eggplant Parmigiano if you want to see the difference between this and its more Americanized cousins. Mitrotti’s eggplant is soft and sweet, layered between melted slices of smoked mozzarella cheese, a robust tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese. The sauce is darker and more intense than the bright red, fresh-from-the-can tomato sauce you’ll find in other less authentic Italian restaurants. From Sergio’s mother’s kitchen you can taste a number of tender chicken dishes, Gnocchi Lamb Sausage, or the light and fresh Fettuccini Caprese.

From Sergio himself there are a dozen dishes that reflect his more contemporary attitude toward food.

And then there’s an overlapping of them all. The Caprese di Melanzane is from a family recipe where Sergio’s grandmother would marinade thick slices of eggplant for a year until they were ready to be eaten with fresh mozzarella. Sergio’s interpretation of the dish doesn’t take a year, but the eggplant is a perfect example of how soft and silky smooth this versatile vegetable can be. If you’ve ever tasted the almost crunchy eggplant at other restaurants where they don’t take time to either marinate or cook it thoroughly, then you’ll love this fine example.

The Linguine Puttanesca is certainly worth a try too. A rich tomato-based sauce is given strength and character by the slow cooking of anchovies, kalamata olives, capers and garlic. The result? A truly great puttanesca, a dish full of flavor, depth and personality.

Lunch here is extremely unhurried, although if you have time limitations just let the staff know and you’ll be served speedily. There are a number of soups and salads for those wishing to keep lunch light but flavorful, and the heartier dishes are great for sharing and for leftovers later in the evening.

If you’re looking for an excellent lunch spot for either a leisurely gathering with good friends and a couple of glasses of wine, or a business meeting in a unique environment, Café Sistina is a winner.

Café Sistina 1314 King St. Honolulu 808-596-0061

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