A perfect night at Aaron’s

Jo McGarry
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Friday - January 11, 2008
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Original Tiger Eye Sushi: yin and yang
Original Tiger Eye Sushi: yin and yang

The unmatched view from the 36th floor of the Ala Moana Hotel ... the emphasis on stellar service ... the menu filled with favorites from top to bottom ... a hardworking staff of longtimers such as captain Tim Carvalho ... the magic of bartender Bobby Acoba ... the wall of celeb photos ...

Where to start in singing the praises of Aaron’s?

There is so much to like about this place, it’s hard to choose.

But it always comes down to the food, doesn’t it?

Perhaps the thing I like most about Aaron’s is that you cannot easily categorize it. Yes, there are Pacific Rim elements. But it’s also a classic American steak-and-fish house - yet with Asian influences. And if you just want a good salad, this is the place. If there’s any theme here, it might be great food, good-size portions and reasonable prices - all with that view. It’s all quite tasty.

Aaron’s is also where June Jones chose to have his last meal in Hawaii last Friday night before jetting off to Dallas and SMU - from bon appetit to bon voyage.

Can’t say what the coach dined on, but here’s what we enjoyed last Saturday.

Maui Wowie Salad ($10) is the eternal favorite here,a chopped salad featuring Maui onions, Greek olives, capers, creamy feta cheese, tomatoes, bay shrimp, red bell peppers and,oh yes,lettuce,all in a mild dressing that ties all the tastes together and does not overpower.

Onaga in a soy-nori vinaigrette sauce filled with subtle tastes
Onaga in a soy-nori vinaigrette sauce filled with subtle tastes

Also from the appetizer side of the menu, we tried the Original Tiger Eye Sushi ($14).The chef cuts a notch in prime ahi, into which is placed an asparagus spear, then it’s rolled with rice in nori, then briefly tempura fried.When sliced, the ahi and rice have a sort of yinyang look - which also describes the texture and taste. Served with greens and cherry tomatoes,it’s both a visual and a taste treat.

Both of these we washed down with a glass of 2003 Louis Latour Grande Ardeche Chardonnay ($8.50), offering citrus and vanilla notes.

From the entree side of the menu we sampled four.

Onaga with baby Shanghai cabbage, soy-nori vinaigrette and sizzling hot peanut oil (market price) is very Oriental, flavors both Chinese and Japanese. The onaga is firm and tasty,cooked with crispy
skin on one side, and the soy-nori sauce is filled with subtle tastes.

Opakapaka has always been one of Aaron’s'best, and here it is served with bay shrimp, mushrooms, asparagus, mushrooms and dill in a lemon-garlic butter sauce (market price). So many tastes, yet they all work together in that sauce.

Maui Wowie chop salad
Maui Wowie chop salad

The Blackened Double Pork Chop ($26) combines a bit of Cajun spice with curry, served with a pineapple marmalade and chopped macadamia nuts. The chop is sliced, sauce drizzled over it, and is the best new dish I’ve come across in quite a while.

As a lover of lamb, I had to try the Lamb Chop ($37), served over a salad of spinach, feta and Greek olives,all of it over pita bread topped with beet root tzatziki (pureed beet with creamy feta cheese). I confess, it’s the first time in my life I’ve liked beets, and in fact loved it. A fantastic combination, and the lamb itself was perfect, tasty and smoky.

These we enjoyed with a glass of 2005 Estancia Pinot Noir from Monterey,offering hints of red cherry and cranberry with a toasted hazelnut finish.

Topping all off, we finished with Strawberry Panzini, a flaming dessert prepared tableside, served over ribbons of heavy crme and creamy dark chocolate and brown sugar.

With Honolulu city lights sparkling all around, the last orange hints of sunset fading, it was as close to a perfect meal as you can get.

 

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