An affordable, family-run restaurant in Waikiki
Friday - February 06, 2009
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On any day of the week, you’ll find a steady stream of tourists walking from their hotels in Waikiki to have breakfast at Wailana Coffee House.
But there’s more to Wailana than inexpensive, 24-hour dining. The family restaurant, established in 1958 by Francis Tom, has changed with the times and continues to offer service and a smile with every order.
I had breakfast and a chat with general manager Kenton Tom.
Jo McGarry: Did Wailana begin as a coffee shop?
Kenton Tom: No, not really. My father had a concession at the Honolulu Zoo originally, and then in 1958 he moved here to 1860 Ala Moana Blvd. When he opened it was as a drive-in, and it expanded over the years. We had car-hop service, then a sit-down counter, then self-service and finally a dining room and a bar. Today the restaurant is about 8,000 square feet and seats 250 people.
JM: I imagine it must have been quite a different Waikiki when your father started his business.
KT: Yes. This was really just a dirt road in the country. There were no hotels, no Hilton Hawaiian Village, just a dirt road and some rocks and coral between us and the ocean.
JM: Is it still very much a family-run affair?
KT: Yes. My sister Joanna Leong is responsible for administration and human services, I’m the general manager, and our brother Malcolm Tom is the financial adviser.We all started working here when we were young. I started working on the self-service counter. In those days we sold five hamburgers for $1, and my brother used to work the ice cream fountain.
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JM: I hear great things about your bar.
KT: Oh, it’s a lively place! It’s changed over the years as people have changed, but there are a very lively group of characters in a Cheers-like atmosphere. It’s a very welcoming place.And there’s a regular karaoke crowd.One of our regulars actually won the national karaoke contest in Vegas. We have a happy hour that lasts all day until 9 p.m. and anyone can walk in and feel welcome.
JM: Are you best known for breakfasts?
KT: I think we’re known primarily as a value family restaurant that’s open 24 hours.We have local foods like fried rice, kalbi and teri chicken, but we also have lots of American-style dishes like New York steak, sandwiches and fried chicken. So there’s something for every taste.
JM: The style of the restaurant has changed over the past 50 years. Have any of the dishes stayed the same?
KT: Some of them have. Our eggs Benedict is a favorite, and that’s been the same for a long time. Our roasted chicken is the same, and we do our kalbi and our teri chicken the same way we’ve been doing them for decades.
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JM: Your meatloaf has an impressive 82-word description on the menu. You must all be very proud of this extraordinary dish.
KT: (laughs) Yes, we are. It’s not your standard meatloaf! It’s a recipe that was developed in 1969. Our general manager at the time, Mel Campbell, helped to develop it. It has a little caper sauce and lots of different spices ... and it comes complete with a salad, roll and a chocolate sundae. It’s quite different from any other dish, and it’s definitely one of our best-sellers.
JM: One of the things I always notice about Wailana is that you make a huge effort to offer “themed” dinners - from starch dinners for the Honolulu marathon to corned beef on St Patrick’s Day.
KT: (laughs) My sister Joanna and I work hard to put those menus together.We enjoy coming up with new ideas for special events. We have a Valentine’s weekend special coming up next week that includes Cupid’s Breakfast and Romeo and Juliet Prime Rib ... it’s a lot of fun. And we adapt the menu, too, to suit changing tastes. Right now we have an Alaskan salmon burger and we have healthy choices, if people want them.
JM: Obviously you’re a great destination for tourists, but whenever I come here, I’m always struck by how many local people eat here.
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KT: I think that the local people are part of the reason the tourists come. I think tourists realize if they see local people going to a place, then they’re probably going to get good value. For locals, we have lots of favorite dishes - and the parking is just 50 cents for two hours.
JM: There are so many restaurants struggling right now with the state of the economy.What do you think is a secret to staying busy?
KT: We’re all feeling the effects, I think, of this economy. Right now it’s a bit of a battle, and no one really knows from one day to the next what will happen. But I think that happy employees give good service, and a value-for-money menu hopefully keeps people coming back. Our father was a real people person who worked very hard and who believed in taking care of his employees. I think that’s important in this business.
JM: What’s your favorite dish on the menu at Wailana?
KT: The kalbi fried rice combo plate and the fresh catch of the day, depending on what it is.
JM: Do you think your father would be happy with the way the coffee house is today?
KT: I’m sure he’d be happy, but I’m also sure he’d want us to be working even harder!
1860 Ala Moana Blvd Honolulu, HI 96815 955-1764
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Overcoming some early Stage fright
Friday - January 30, 2009
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When Stage Restaurant opened inside the Honolulu Design Center, it was with as much fanfare and excitement as the opening of a Broadway show. Guests clamored for invitations to the opening event and crammed themselves into the dark, moody restaurant for a first glimpse at the designer chairs and couture food. It’s not that there was anything special about the idea of a restaurant within a retail outlet (Alan Wong’s Pineapple Room and Mariposa had already shown what could be done), but a furniture store? Foodies flocked, the curious waited in line for lunch, and within a few weeks of opening night, Honolulu residents cast their vote.
Expensive and ... OK.
That’s one of the hardest images to shed if you’re a new restaurant looking for an adoring audience that will return for encore performances. But as reports of $75-plus lunches for two (without wine) and highly priced dinners spread, there was not much anyone could do to stop the press.
Fast forward a couple of years and we find a restaurant in a very different place. Still on the second floor next to Amuse wine bar, Stage is beginning to create a buzz again. Executive chef Ron De Guzman is at the helm of a kitchen crew that’s been at Stage since day one. He’s a Kapiolani Community College graduate and an Alan Wong alum, and little by little, one palate at a time, De Guzman is convincing diners that Stage is worth a second try.
“It was a little intimidating in the beginning,” he says of the March 2007 opening. “It wasn’t easy to live up to all the hype. Today I just cook the kind of food I like to eat, and it seems to be working. People in Hawaii like familiar flavors, I think ... something they can recognize.”
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The lunch menu - there’s a three-course $25 daily deal that’s well worth trying - features a menu that changes each day, depending on what’s fresh. And while it might be nonthreatening and recognizable, it’s anything but boring. There’s a pan-seared bubu arare-crusted king salmon served over orzo, for example, (De Guzman’s take on fish and rice), and a certified Angus beef burger that’s taken to a seriously finedining level with house-spiced bacon, a homemade potato bun, excellent french fries and two types of cheese. Homemade meatloaf, New York steak sandwiches and Caesar salad are all dishes that are familiar, but De Guzman displays the talent to nudge them up a notch.
“I think it’s just about making the menu more approachable,” he says quietly.“I hope that we’re putting out food that people love.”
De Guzman is one of those chefs who’d work day and night to put a smile on a guest’s face. He’s not particularly interested in accolades, or even in putting his signature on the menu. He sees a bigger picture.
“We’re still a work in progress,” he says, “but already we’ve created a lot of regular customers at lunchtime who’ve noticed how much the menu has changed.”
And if the menu is impressive, the wine list is stunning. Charly Yoshida, who for years was the comforting first face you saw at Alan Wong’s, was coaxed out of “retirement"to come to Stage, and he brought his love of wines with him.
“Our wine list is really incredible,” says the immensely likeable Yoshida. “Our attitude here is to share it, not store it, so we have 400 wines that are so reasonably priced. They start at $15 and go right up to $4,000.“Yoshida agrees that, with the wine and now the food, Stage is ready for its encore. “Ron has a real talent,“he says,“He gets it.”
It’s true that De Guzman has a nice touch both in the kitchen and on the plate. A chopped salad becomes a thing of beauty when ingredients like corn, black beans, seared ahi, green beans, baby tomatoes, avocado, eggs, croutons and sweet potatoes are lined up perfectly on a plate. His lobster risotto, served with a chili-saffron broth of Manila clams and New Caledonia shrimp, is a beautifully balanced dish both on the palate and on the plate. “We’re using Kona lobster and as many local ingredients as we can,“he says. “We have the best produce and the best fish in Hawaii. We’re doing as much as we can to use it all.”
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But how hard is it to go back to a restaurant you already decided you didn’t like?
Actually, it’s a lot of fun. I went back a couple of months ago for the first time and was impressed with the friendly service and the slimmed-down, reasonably priced menu.
“We did create an odd vibe in the beginning,” admits De
Guzman. “A restaurant in a furniture store with designer chairs and tables - and a menu that was on the high side. But I think we’ve managed to turn that around.”
I think so, too.
And, as my 5-year-old-son Max would say, “Doesn’t everyone deserve a second chance? “
Stage Restaurant
Honolulu Design Center
1250 Kapiolani Blvd.
237-5429
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Celebrating Chinese New Year at Hee Hing
Friday - January 23, 2009
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To celebrate Chinese New Year this weekend, we headed over to one of the oldest family-run restaurants in Honolulu. At Hee Hing, James Lee has been part of the restaurant business for more than 46 years. He took some time to chat with us about his early working days, why dishes at Hee Hing are always changing, and what the Year of the Ox has in store.
Most people are familiar with Hee Hing; it’s something of a landmark Chinese restaurant in Honolulu. Is it the oldest?
I would think so; it’s certainly one of them. It’s always been in our family.
Do you have early memories of your parents working here and of spending time in the restaurant when you were young?
Well, I started working in the restaurant when I was quite young, so I do have a lot of memories of the earlier days.
Did you have an assigned job as a young boy?
I started when I was 6 years old as the cashier. There was a newspaper article written about me at that time:“the youngest cashier in Honolulu,“and people still remember that. Believe it or not they still come into the restaurant and say “are you the little kid that was behind the register?” That was 46 years ago, and they still remember.
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So, naturally, you have generations of families coming here. Yes, of course. We help them celebrate everything from parties to banquets, weddings and graduations. We do a lot of funeral banquets, too. We help celebrate every family event and holiday. It’s one of the things I enjoy - customizing banquet menus so people can really enjoy our food.
A lot of family-run restaurants have problems trying to entice the next generation to take over the business. Are your kids interested in food?
Well, my son Charles is still in college - he graduates in May - but my nephews are here and working hard. I run the restaurant with my brother Henry, and his sons bring new ideas to us all the time. There’s a new version of dim sum, for example - a different type of manapua - that we hope to be launching soon. They bring fresh, new ideas and we think that’s really important for the continuation of the restaurant. Customers do want new things.
There’s a tendency, I think, with older restaurants to keep doing what they do well and not to change anything. You don’t subscribe to that theory, do you?
No. In this business, I think it’s particularly important to have new ideas.You have to keep things different to stop them from getting stale.
When my father started, we were right opposite Rainbow’s, and we were basically a very local Chinese restaurant - a chop suey kind of place. But we decided to bring in Hong Kong dim sum when we moved to this Kapahulu location and we tweaked the menu to make it more international in flavor.
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How would you describe the food today at Hee Hing?
Our dishes are Hong Kong-based but with a local flavor. People here like more sauces, for example, than in Hong Kong - and bigger portions - so we adapt to the local palate, but we bring in new ideas and new dishes all the time.
How do you decide which new dishes will debut and which ones will go? There are certain staples that people expect to see on any Chinese menu.
Once a year I go with our chefs to Hong Kong and to Vancouver. There are lots of progressive Chinese chefs in Vancouver, where many restaurants opened in 1997. Hong Kong gives us an idea of what’s happening with the more regional dishes, and in Vancouver we get an idea of the cutting edge of Chinese food, the trends. We get inspiration from some of their ideas and we look at them and then bring back our own versions.
OK, so what’s new at Hee Hing, and what will always stay the same?
Some things, of course, will never change. The kau yuk will always stay on the menu. People want it the way they’ve always had it - and they want it red! And the shrimp Canton, which is an old-style dish, won’t change. For new dishes, there’s this braised short ribs that we’re doing. It’s a similar thing to the pork in kau yuk, but I found beef with a high enough fat content that gets softer and softer as you cook it. It goes well with taro and so far, local Chinese people really like the flavor . They realize it’s different, but they like it. They trust us!
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This weekend you’ll have all the traditional foods for the new year. I know that your family has a very traditional - and very good - recipe for jai.
Yes, we make gau and jai for New Year’s. Gau is symbolic of unity. The mochiko rice with brown sugar is sticky and meant to keep the family together as one unit. Jai, of course, is also a highly symbolic dish with ingredients like ginko nuts and oysters and long rice that represent longevity and good fortune and health.
This past Year of the Rat wasn’t much fun. How do you see the coming year?
I think it was a hard year for everybody.
The Year of the Ox should be a very good year. I think that people are worried about what will happen and they have concerns, but I think it will be a better year than people think.
Hee Hing Chinese Restaurant 449 Kapahulu Ave. 735-5544
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Chatting with Café Tajmahal’s Chowdhury
Friday - January 16, 2009
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Honolulu residents can no longer complain of a lack of good Indian restaurants. In the past 10 years our Indian dining choices have gone from dismal to delicious, and Café Tajmahal on Waialae Avenue is the latest restaurant to join the growing number.
I stopped by to chat with owner Kabir Chowdhury about signature dishes at Café Tajmahal.
Were you born and raised in India?
I was born in Bangladesh where cooking was a large part of daily life. My mother and sisters were mostly responsible for the cooking, but I would sometimes follow my mother around asking what she was doing and learning about the food.
How did you come to Hawaii and when did you open the restaurant?
I came to study years ago at UH. About eight years ago my wife’s brothers opened Maharani on South King Street and I joined them. Last year my wife and I opened Café Tajmahal together.
The restaurant is tiny, and if you blink driving on Waialae Avenue you’d miss it. It’s very intimate, and I love that it’s tucked away off the beaten track.
Yes, it’s small - it seats about 38 people. We’re behind the Fat Greek Restaurant on Waialae Avenue and next to Sabrina’s. Once people find us, they easily find their way back! One of the things that people comment on is that they feel like they’re dining at home when they come here.
Except the Indian food is better!
Yes, we hope so. We have a mix of Northern, central and some Southern dishes, so people get to try different flavors and styles of cooking. Some dishes are with sauces, some are tandoori and there are lots of curries, kebabs and tikkas.
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What are the signature dishes - the ones that people can try here but perhaps not find elsewhere?
Well, our lamb dishes are very good - the lamb curry masala is lamb cooked with onion and garlic and ginger and the traditional spices. There’s a lamb vindalo for those who like it on the hot side. We do fish dishes and shrimp, of course, and our chicken curry is a favorite - it’s hard to pick just one! Everything is really quite good.
Your vegetable samosas are bigger than any I’ve seen anywhere. And your pakora are not like the ones I’m used to you know, the round, sometimes doughy kind.
Yes, the samosa are a specialty made by my wife. They’re big enough to share easily. And we make the pakora flat because we like the evenness of the cooking. The round ones are often not cooked all the way through. This way, they’re perfect.
And they’re addictive. I ate three at one sitting!
I think for people who are coming here for the first time, the combination plates you offer are the best way to go. You can try so many different things in one order.
Yes. There’s a number of combination plates. The one that’s for four people has four different entrees - that’s any kind of lamb, beef, chicken vegetable or seafood dish - and the meal includes rice and naan bread and dessert. The cost is less than the cost of four people ordering separate meals, so it’s worth trying- and it’s also more like the way we eat at home.
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And you have the kind of wine list that I love.
(Laughs) It’s BYOB, and we just charge $1 per glass for cork-age. People all seem really happy with that.
I think that adds to the fact that people feel quite at home here. They bring their own beer, wine ... they share dishes ...
There are a lot of vegetarian options here - some of them are really different. I would think that vegetarians are delighted when they see your menu.
We do have a lot of variety on our menu, and I think that’s one of the things that people like.
There are a few dishes that have become really popular already with vegetarians. One is the Eggplant Tikka Masala, where the eggplant is baked in the tandoor oven.
I’d recommend that to anyone who likes eggplant - the eggplant is really soft and tender, and its fun to see the bright-red batter instead of the normal gray-ish, purple eggplant. It’s a fun dish.
Thank you. We try to offer a wide variety of dishes, and try to offer things that are a little different.
So address the inevitable “heat” question, if you would.
People invariably expect Indian food to be really hot, don’t they?
Yes, always. And the truth is it’s not. It’s very manageable heat for most people. We make all of our dishes mild to medium. Almost everybody can handle the kind of spices that we use, and if people want their food hotter, then we can easily do that. It’s the comment that we hear most from customers. They come for the first time and say “It’s not nearly as spicy as we thought.”
Café Tajmahal 3036 Waialae Ave. (Next to Sabrina’s, behind The Fat Greek).
Street parking, lot parking in front of the restaurant and paid parking at City Mill.
Reservations: 732-6496
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Afresh, authentic taste of Vietnam
Friday - January 09, 2009
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McCully Shopping Center is one of the city’s most diverse dining areas. Of the 21 or so small businesses within the two-story strip mall, there are 13 ethnic restaurants that include Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, Hawaiian and Korean cuisine, to name but a few.
Newest on the McCully dining scene, located at the site of the former Brazilian restaurant Tudo de Bom, is Pho 777 - a restaurant specializing in pho and comfort foods from Vietnam. But if on your first trip you go looking for authentic pho, with its rich beef broth and lots of marrowy fat, make sure to ask it to be included with your order.You won’t find this detail on the menu, but managing partner Bao Nguyen believes that many health-conscious diners would rather not have their broth filled with fat, so they offer it on the side.
“We cook the beef bones for six to eight hours to make the broth,” he says,“and then we skim the fat from the top and put it to one side.”
So if you’ve dined at the restaurant recently and enjoyed the food but found the pho a little on the lean side, that might be why.
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“We think that a lot of people want to eat more healthy, so we take the fat out of the pho,” says Nguyen. “But if people want it, it comes on the side.”
Not being a fan of fat-free foods in any form, I ordered the fat on the side. It comes in a small soup bowl as accompaniment to any of the pho dishes. Once you get over the fact that you’re adding a greasy element to your stock, it tastes really good. We had the pho with tendon and tripe and well-done flank steak slices, but there are a dozen or so variations to choose from. You can ask for rare meat if you like - it’s probably a good idea, as the beef will cook further in the hot broth. Without the fat, the broth is fairly well-flavored, but there’s no doubt that the addition of a large portion of beef stock really adds to the richness of the soup.
“This is the way that we eat the soup in Vietnam,” says Nguyen, “but we wanted to give people the option.”
When it comes to pho, personal preference prevails - and Nguyen is well-aware of the fact that many people have their own idea of how pho is supposed to taste.
“Some people like the salt, others don’t like it too salty. Some like the fat, others don’t,” he says.“We try to give the customers the option, and to make the choices healthy for them.”
On the whole, it’s fairly easy to make healthy choices at the restaurant - Vietnamese food is well-known for its artful presentation of herbs and vegetables that accompany most dishes - and here, you’ll find the portions fresh and abundant.
Finest Rice Vermicelli Roll Up on Tray features large platters filled with generous amounts of condiments and offerings like grilled shrimp ($17.45), grilled pork ($17.45) and beef, shrimp and calamari fondue ($21.45).
Equally impressive are the huge plates of cold vermicelli noodles that come with shredded cucumber, chopped mint leaves, fresh bean sprouts, crushed peanuts and the house special sauce for dipping. Vermicelli toppings include excellent crispy spring rolls ($8.45), barbecued prawns ($16.95), sauted chicken ($8.95), shredded pork, spring rolls and barbecue pork ($9.75) and mixed vegetable and tofu ($8.99).
Other Vietnamese staples include vermicelli noodles in hot broth and a selection of appetizers that include fresh summer rolls ($5.75 for two), vegetarian rolls ($5.75) and crispy spring rolls ($8.75 for six).
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Bao has assembled a pleasant and cheerful waitstaff - most of them know the menu well and can help with recommendations. And in the kitchen, Nguyen’s aunt is in charge of keeping the food authentic.
“We think that the reason so many people like the pho is because of my auntie’s broth,” he says.
The location at McCully gives Pho 777 one of the brightest and most spacious locations of any Vietnamese restaurant in Honolulu. And with white linen tablecloths and muted colors on the wall, the restaurant has a comfortable ambience and a finer-dining appeal than most of its competitors.
Pho 777
McCully Shopping Center
1960 Kapiolani Blvd.
second floor
open daily 10 a.m.-midnight
955-7770
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Heading out to Ko Olina for brunch
Friday - January 02, 2009
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There’s time enough for talk of diets tomorrow. As we enter the first week of the year - and the last weekend of a long holiday celebration - there’s no better meal before you swear off rich foods forever than a hearty brunch.
Mention Roy’s Restaurants and most people think of an evening spent enjoying Asian-fusion foods and dishes like blackened ahi, misoyaki butter-fish and Mongolian spiced baby back ribs that have become classics over the past 20 years.
For most of us, a taste of Roy’s is part of a memorable evening.
But over at Ko Olina, Roy’s general manager Louis Barnett and executive chef Darryl Shinogi want to change all that.
“We know that people always think of Roy’s for dinner,” says Barnett. “Now we want them to know that we’re one of the few Roy’s Restaurants where you can have lunch and brunch, too.”
What’s appealing about the prospect of a Sunday brunch at Roy’s is that there’s a mini menu of those classic dishes alongside the breakfast entrees.
“We realized when we were conceptualizing this menu that people come to Roy’s expecting to see certain dishes on the menu.” says Barnett.“Why should that be any different at brunch?”
So alongside steak and eggs and Haupia French Toast, expect to see Roy’s Original Blackened Island Ahi ($32/36), and Misoyaki Marinated Butterfish ($35.50).
For those who enjoy a departure from the norm at brunch, there are interesting choices on the menu. After years spent at La Mer and the rigors of fine din ing, Shinogi is enjoying a measure of creative freedom at Roy’s.
“I’d been doing French cooking for 14 years,” he explains.“The exciting thing about Roy’s is that there’s freedom within the disciplines you’ve learned.”
At Ko Olina, he’s taken a mixture of his French classical training, Roy’s influence and a love of local foods to create one of the most interesting brunch menus in Honolulu.
Start with Ochazuke of Hibachi Salmon served with Japanese Green Tea. “It’s a classic Japanese breakfast, of course,” says Shinogi. “I cook the salmon in the salamander (portable burner) and it comes out nice and brown, and then I roast the skin, break it up and add that to the furikake to give a nice texture and flavor.”
Another of Shinogi’s personalized dishes is the Monte Cristo with fresh fruit garnish ($14).
“It’s a ham-and-cheese sandwich,” he jokes of the bite-sized, sweet and savory morsels that are flattened then dipped in tempura batter, lightly fried and then dusted with powdered sugar.
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Shinogi, who confesses to a love of saimin, will even make you a bowl of soup, if that’s what you feel like for breakfast.
“We have yakisoba noodles on the menu,” he says, “so we could make that for brunch if someone wanted it.”
One of the most popular choices from the a la carte brunch menu is a 12-ounce prime rib that’s carved to order and comes with Roy’s-style hash browns and steamed vegetables.
“The prime rib is really popular,” says Barnett.“There’s a little crust on it and a great horseradish sauce. It’s a fabulous dish.”
With a view across the golf course at Ko Olina, a casually elegant ambience, a friendly and upbeat staff, and a bar that sits atop a waterfall, there are few places this side of the island that compare.
“It’s the only place, pretty much, to come for a Sunday brunch on this side of the island,” says Barnett. “And most people enjoy the fact that it’s not a buffet but a relaxed atmosphere and a reasonably priced menu.”
Try the Imperial Seafood Fried Rice topped with Sunnyside Eggs ($15) for a twist on a local favorite, Crab Cake Benedict ($24), or a Roy’s Style Bento that comes as a platter of sashimi, grilled teri chicken, shrimp and vegetable tempura with yakisoba noodles ($22).
The famous Dim Sum Canoe is available at brunch, too, featuring many of the appetizers that made Roy’s famous: Mongolian spiced baby ribs, blackened ahi, Chinatown chicken spring rolls, shrimp tempura and spicy ahi maki ($13).
“People seem to appreciate the fact that they can eat smaller portions of Roy’s classic dishes here,” says Barnett,“and that they can do it during the day.”
Look for some kicked-up cocktails, too, at brunch time, including a fiery wasabi Bloody Mary and a sparkling mimosa.
“We call them our morning mood enhancers,” says Barnett of the cocktails that include champagne with strawberries, water-melon and cherry, pineapple-infused martinis, li hing mui margaritas and a selection of frozen daiquiris.
Appetizers of ochazuke or haupia and fresh fruit are included in the price of brunch, and two portion sizes are offered.
“We decided to offer all of our desserts for Sunday brunch, too,” says Barnett - including Roy’s melting hot chocolate souffl with vanilla bean ice cream, raspberry coulis and crme Anglaise.
By all means, bring on your dietary New Year’s resolutions, but before you do, head out for Sunday brunch at Roy’s.
Roy’s Restaurant at Ko Olina Resort
676-7697 http://www.roysrestaurant.com
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A New Orleans-style New Year’s Eve
Friday - December 26, 2008
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New Year’s Eve.
The last night of the year demands attention to detail at your dining table. New Year’s Eve foods should have an element of good luck attached to them - whether good fortune comes from a plate of black-eyed peas or a platter of fresh ahi sashimi, here are some restaurants serving up traditional and not-so-traditional feasts:
Top Of Waikiki.
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Sean Priester has gone from strength to strength since taking over Top of Waikiki almost five years ago. His food is sophisticated, elegant and fun, and he has never lost his ability to bring a comfort element to almost every dish. This year he’s returning to his Southern roots with a memorable New Year’s Eve menu.
“We wanted to incorporate Southern hospitality into the menu,” says Priester. “It will be a night inspired by the New Orleans’ Jazz Festival.”
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Expect lucky black-eyed peas to make an appearance on the menu, and look for the chef’s Lucky Plate - Niman Ranch Barbecue Pork Loin Chop with Espresso Glaze and Ceniza Farms Fresh Collard Greens.
“This natural pork is really superior with its marbling and intense flavor,” says Priester. He’s serving it charbroiled with roasted cornbread, apple butter and the house apple-jicama slaw.
Make reservations immediately if you can - the evening promises to be outstanding. There’s a five-course, Creole-infused menu that features sweet potato gumbo, oysters po’ boy, the restaurant’s signature ahi poke stack and coconut shrimp. Course two is a salad of grilled Maui baby romaine and entrees include shrimp and snapper etouffee, Thai barbecue lamb ribs with tea-smoked duck, and the restaurant’s signature roasted garlic ribeye. New Orleans traditional jazz and more are provided by Tennyson Stephens, Justin James-New Jass Quartet, DeShannon Higa and the James Kraft Trio.
Top of Waikiki Waikiki Business Plaza 2270 Kalakaua Ave.
923-3877 Topofwaikiki.com
Michel’s.
The view might not be from the top of a tall building, but there’s no finer view of the sands of Waikiki than Michel’s. Just steps from the ocean, Michel’s is one of the great dining rooms in Honolulu, and the place to head for elegance,old-world sophistication and reliably good food and wine.
In the kitchen, Chef Hardy creates classic European dishes inspired by local foods. Highly recommended on the regular menu is the Hawaiian Bouillabaisse with local fish in a saffron-tomato broth alongside an assortment of lobster, scallops, shrimp, mussels, clams and salmon. There’s a gorgeous pork chop done in the osso buco-style, and some excellent steak,lobster and fresh island fish.Look for New Year’s Eve specials, too, from this excellent chef.
And if you can’t make it to Michel’s for the last night of the year, go early in 2009 for Sunday brunch. What you’ll find is certainly the most elegant breakfast in the city - with service and attention to detail matched only by dishes like traditional eggs Benedict, New York steak and eggs, and corned beef sweet potato hash.
Michel’s On the Beach at the Colony Surf 2895 Kalakaua Ave.
923-6552 http://www.michelshawaii.com
Aaron’s.
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Of restaurants perched high above the city, Aaron’s surely has one of the finest views, so expect the dining room to sell out early on New Year’s Eve. With a menu of classic American cuisine such as oysters Rockefeller, lobster tails, steaks, fresh island fish, pasta and excellent blackened double pork chop, the restaurant offers sophisticated dining pre-dusk and then turns itself into an elegant night club with dancing until dawn. The view across the city is splendid, but the food, wine and atmosphere should grab most of your attention. General manager Al Souza is a welcoming and genial host.
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Aaron’s Ala Moana Hotel 410 Atkinson Drive
955-4466 http://www.tristarrestaurants.com
d.k’s Steak House.
Is steak high on your list of last-night-of-the-year dining? Then head to d.k’s where the 22-ounce, bone-in, aged ribeye is one of the largest and tastiest steaks in town. New Year’s Eve dishes include oysters on the half shell,pan-seared foie gras, duck confit, fresh island onaga and a choice of entrees that include opakapaka with truffled ali’i mushrooms or seared prime rib.
Dessert of chocolate cake and chocolate strawberries is included in the $75-per-person price. The wine list offers some of the most eclectic, best-priced wines in Honolulu. The view across Waikiki should offer great fireworks viewing z- if you can tear your attention away from your plate. d.k’s Steak House Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort and Spa
931-6280 three hours free validated self-parking.
www.dksteakhouse.com
‘Elua.
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Fine wines, classic steaks and seafood are on the menu at Aaron’s
There’s a choice of two dinners (what else?) at the restaurant famous for its chef duo.‘Elua offers a four-course dinner for $70 (without wines) that starts with a choice of Chef Philippe’s fresh manila clam chowder or ravioli of goat cheese and herbs on a bed of mesclun greens, followed by Chef Donato’s risotto of asparagus and imported Taleggio cheese. Entrees include fresh island moi on a bed of beluga lentils drizzled with vincotto, or pan-fried tenderloin of beef with a red wine shiitake mushroom sauce. Dessert is Chef Phillipe’s Grand Cru Manjari Chocolate Mousse.
Pair up the last-night-of-the-year feast with 2-ounce wine pours with each course for an additional $16. There’s a five-course New Year’s Eve menu too, that offers fresh oysters, fresh potato gnocchi with lump blue crab meat in a vodka sauce, pan-seared moi and Chef Donato’s Mediterranean-style grilled lamb chops. The dinner costs $83 and includes a glass of sparkling wine.
For gourmands with smaller appetites, there’s a new wine and cheese menu, and tapas plates that should appeal.
‘Elua Restaurant and Wine Bar 1341 Kapiolani Blvd. 955-3852
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A family affair on South King Street
Friday - December 19, 2008
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Gulick Delicatessen has long been considered one of the best okazuyas in Hawaii. The Kalihi deli has received local and national acclaim and is a place locals and foodies alike seek out when craving home-cooked Japanese food.
So when brothers Cory Makishi and Lee Takara (sons of Gulick’s founder), along with Takara’s wife, Denise, opened a second Gulick Deli on South King Street filled with the same well-loved dishes as the original store, it didn’t take long for word to spread.
Word spread, too, about renovations on the space next door, the one occupied last by Makino Chaya. Most assumed that the renovations were for a new restaurant, and they were right. But regular customers were surprised when the owners of Kochi Restaurant turned out to be none other than the brothers themselves.
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I stopped by for a taste of Kochi and a chat with Cory, Lee and Denise, and what I found was excellent food, attractive décor and two determined brothers with a plan that’s working.
I know that your mom started the original Gulick Deli in Kalihi almost 30 years ago. Were you both brought up working in the business?
Lee: We all worked and got experience with the original restaurant in Kalihi, but I think that I was the one who really wanted to cook and to take it further.
Cory: I’m more of the logistics person. I was never that interested in the cooking. I’m interested in how everything runs.
Kochi is not what you’d expect from the people responsible for Gulick. What I mean by that is Gulick is a traditional, Japanese-style deli where you order at the counter and take out your Styrofoam box, and Kochi is sleek, sophisticated, with a very cool ambience and an intriguing menu.
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Lee: Yeah. It’s different, obviously. As far as Gulick, we’re very grateful to our customers for supporting us all these years, and we wanted to, in a way, give something back to them, to create a place where local food was served in a nice atmosphere. We wanted to make this place so people could come eat good local food and either dress up or come in just shorts and slippers and know that they are welcome.
Cory: My brother and I like to go out and kick back after work, but we didn’t really know of a place where they had local food that also looked really good. There are lots of great casual places and bars, of course, but we thought, ‘Let’s make a restaurant where we can have a nice atmosphere, families will be welcome and people like us would enjoy coming and kicking back with our drinks too.’
How’s that working?
Denise: Really well. We have different crowds. From 5 to 6 in the evening we have families and kids who come for dinner. A little later at night we have a crowd that comes for cocktails, and on weekends we have a younger, later crowd. We have everything from grandma’s birthday party to baby showers and business lunches (Kochi opens daytime for private parties and lunches). And the thing is that everyone seems to enjoy what they come for.
I notice that there is a lot of Japanese influence on the menu. From your mom?
Lee: Well, I learned directly from my mom, of course, and the base of the cooking is all from her.
The thing that sets us apart, though, is we have the Japanese flavors down. Where else can you get a teishoku with the true traditional flavors alongside a loco moco or kurobuta pork?
What’s proving most popular on the menu?
Lee: Lots of things are getting a good reception, but probably the loco moco is one of the biggest hits. That was inspired by my brother (laughs). When we were growing up he would eat the rice and the hamburger and the hash all at once, so it came from there.
Denise: Now people bring their friends and visitors from the Mainland here when they want them to try loco moco. People love the pork. You don’t need a knife with it at all, it just falls off the fork when you touch it.
Lee: What we wanted to do was to make food that people would want to eat every day. With teri chicken and steaks, furikake ahi, fresh poke and simple things like the katsu and saimin, we’re cooking food that pretty much people want to eat all the time.
I hear you’re doing a Christmas Day brunch - that’s an easy way for people to try most of your food.
Denise: From 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. we’ll have made-to-order sushi, an omelet station, carving stations, mahimahi, garlic chicken and some of our best local favorites. It’s just $35.95, so yes, it’s a good way to try our food all at once!
Kochi Restaurant 1936 S. King St. 941-2835
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A gift of holiday recommendations
Friday - December 12, 2008
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While these might not be the cheeriest of times, before you know it January will be here and advice about dieting and how to lose those holiday pounds will be added to reports on the recession. So you might as well eat, drink and be merry while you can.
If you’re still not sure where to buy a Christmas cake or don’t know what’s on the menu at your favorite restaurant, here are some holiday recommendations.
Panya Bakery
The incredibly industrious Yeung sisters sold out of their Thanksgiving turkey meals long before the November deadline. The home-cooked meals are prepared in limited numbers, and the moist turkeys, honey-glazed hams and freshly baked pies are in high demand. Similar packages are available for Christmas and New Year’s, with yule logs replacing pumpkin pies.
“It’s been fun hearing all the comments and positive feedback from customers about our Thanksgiving meals,“says Annie Yeung,“and now we’re already taking calls from more customers about our Christmas Eve meals.”
Christmas Eve dinner includes turkey or ham, and sides of cranberry dressing, mochi rice stuffing and veggies. Instead of pumpkin pie, expect to find a chocolate yule log buttercream roll in your to-go box. Christmas Eve pickup time begins at 3:30 p.m.And while you’re waiting for your hot turkey dinner, pick up some holiday goodies from the bakery. Well-known for their expertly baked yule logs, Christmas cakes and gourmet profiterole towers, this year the Yeungs are adding tradition to their baking mix.“This year we have gingerbread cookies and a do-it-yourself gingerbread house,” says Annie. The house of freshly baked sheets of gingerbread comes boxed with frosting/glue and candies to decorate.
There’s also a ready-made gingerbread house for those who feel that construction, albeit on a miniscule level, is a little too much this time of year.
Cookies, cakes and gift baskets are all for sale at Panya Bakery at both Ala Moana and Queen Street, with prices starting at $40.
For more information:
Panya Bakery and Express
711 Queen St.
597-8880
http://www.panyagroup.com
Christmas Sushi from Sansei
Nothing says Christmas in Hawaii like sunshine, a view of Waikiki Beach and some new-wave sushi.
Christmas Eve and Christmas Day specials at Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar include king clam “mirugai,” either in nigiri sushi or as sashimi; fresh blue fin ootoro,the gloriously fatty,highly prized tuna; and “lomi lomi"rolls of fresh salmon rolled with ocean salad and topped with salmon, tomatoes,Maui onions,cilantro and crispy salmon skin. Special holiday dishes in addition to the regular menu include steamed fresh Island snapper with garlic mushrooms, sautéed vegetables and fresh crab salad, and braised veal cheeks.
The regular Sansei menu will be offered both days. Desserts are inspired by the holidays and include red velvet cake, and spumoni cannoli with egg nog Anglaise cream.
Reservations:
Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar
Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort and Spa
931-6286
http://www.sanseihawaii.com
Holiday Dining Family Style at Longhi’s
If your family is fond of all-youcan-eat buffets during the holidays but the lack of variety leaves you cold, try making a reservation at Longhi’s, where family-style dining is encouraged.
It’s not all-you-can-eat, but you’d be surprised how far a bunch of shared appetizers and entrees will go. “We can do family-style dining at lunch for from $22 per person and around $42 to $45 per person for dinner,” says Mary Ann Bowman, general manager of Longhi’s at Ala Moana Center.Leave it to Longhi’s to work out the menu based on your favorite entrees.“We have lots of share-friendly dishes already on the menu,“says Bowman of dishes such as signature Filet Mignon Longhi and Pasta Venice.
“It’s a great way to eat,” says Longhi’s owner Charlie Longhi, “and we especially encourage people to join us for family-style meals during the holidays.”
For more information on holiday dining at Longhi’s and details on creating group dinners:
Longhi’s
Ala Moana Blvd.
947-9899
Ocean House
When it comes to an ocean view, a stunning sunset and twinkling stars lighting a holiday sky as you dine, Ocean House wins hands down as far as value and location. On the beach within the Outrigger Reef Waikiki, the restaurant has a casually elegant ambience and a menu that’s aimed at the budget-conscious diner.
Entrees begin at $19 and,as you’d expect from a spot right on the water,there’s a fine selection of fresh fish including mahi mahi, hapu’upu’u (Hawaiian sea bass) and opah. Pupu start at $9 and nobody minds if you share - in fact, the menu helpfully states that portions (including spare ribs, ahi tartar and a tasty escargot and brie bake) are large enough for two or more.
“The view is incredible,” says manager Lilia Wilson, “and when local people come here they are really happy with the prices and the food.”
Regulars go for the prime rib, which general manager David Nagaishi says is the best in town. For $28 you get a hearty portion of truly tender beef that’s been slow roasted in the restaurant’s electric imu. “Chef roasts the meat for between 10 and 12 hours, depending on the size,“says Nagaishi.“He’s an expert at getting the meat exactly right, and that’s something that can’t be done in a regular oven.” The ultra-slow roasting process results in remarkably tender beef served in several ways. The Ocean House Cut ($27) is a large portion of tender beef; there’s a Lite Cut ($23) for those with a smaller appetite; the Alii Cut ($33) is a huge portion cut to satisfy larger appetites; the Pulehu Prime Rib ($28) that’s seasoned with salt, garlic and fresh herbs; and the Prime Rib New Orleans ($28), where the meat is flash-grilled with a dry Cajun spice mix.
“There’s a prime rib for everyone,” says Nagaishi.
Ocean House Outrigger Reef Waikiki 923-2277
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Chef Siu can ‘Rise’ to any occasion
Friday - December 05, 2008
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3660 On the Rise has been one of Honolulu’s favorite restaurants since it opened its doors 16 years ago. Chef-owner Russell Siu and partner Gale Ogawa had a vision of opening an upscale “plate lunch” place that almost immediately turned into a relaxed, casual fine-dining restaurant with great locally influenced flavors.
If you ask Siu or Ogawa for a definition of the food, they’ll say its Euro-Island, which is much like Pacific Rim. The “Euro” comes from Russell’s culinary experience, and the “Island” influence is obvious. What’s quite remarkable about 3660 is its menu. There’s a balance of local flavors, a little French influence and a lot of creativity with both local and imported ingredients - all resulting in dishes that simply cannot be removed from the menu, lest customers protest.
I stopped by the restaurant last week to chat with Siu and Ogawa about some of the signature dishes and why they think they work.
Jo McGarry: So I remember you telling me that originally all you really wanted was a place that served local food. Can you believe its been 16 successful years already?
Gale Ogawa: No! (laughs). But that’s right about the beginning. Originally we were always trying to bring flavors to people they would already know and recognize.
J.M.: I want to talk about some of the greatest dishes on the menu. The catfish has to be one. It’s such a great dish. How did that come about?
G.O.: Well, local people love whole fish and catfish, and originally we were trying to do a whole catfish, but it was hard to find, so we found these filets of Idaho cat-fish and they were fabulous. Russell tempuras two filets and serves them with a ponzu sauce - that’s kind of like a sweet teri sauce with citrus. It’s probably one of the all-time favorite dishes.
J.M.: The N.Y. steak has always been one of my favorites - that’s an excellent steak that seems really, really simple.
G.O.: It’s simple, but it’s very well-seasoned. It’s not just thrown on the grill. The seasoning is the key.
J.M.: What are some of the all-time great dishes that will never leave the menu?
G.O.: The ahi katsu. There’s the catfish of course, and the snapper (Chinese Steamed Filet of Fresh Snapper) ... dishes like that will never go. That’s why we have one side of the menu devoted to the classic dishes.
J.M.: So is it easier when you have a menu filled with dishes people love, or is it harder?
G.O.: (laughs). It’s not really hard, but the challenging thing about it is that people have their favorites, and that’s what they want to see on the menu. It becomes challenging when you want to add something new. And then often you try something once and people want that to stay on the menu. We have these short ribs, for example, and we used to rotate them out, and we tried taking them off the menu and they’ve now been on for about six years!
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J.M.: Russell, I’ve always said that you have this great ability to recognize what local people want to eat. You do it at Kakaako Kitchen where there’s a really extensive menu of favorites, and you do it here on the finer-dining level. What’s your secret?
Russell Siu: No secret, we just want to make food that tastes good and that’s not overwhelmed by other flavors. To me, I want the taste to be foremost.
G.O.: Russell’s style has always been about letting people taste the food.
R.S.: Some people concentrate so much on the presentation and on the style that by the time it gets to the table it’s not hot - and that’s not good.
J.M.: So how do you go about creating dishes that have great longevity?
R.S.: We think about the protein first and then how we will balance the entire menu. Then there’s the style of cooking - is it going to be grilled or braised or whatever - and then there’s the kind of sauce and then what local ingredient can we use where people recognize the style. It’s about having people recognize an ingredient and then say,‘wow that tastes like ...’ and they remember something they perhaps ate when they were younger, or at their mom’s house, but it has a twist to it.
J.M.: So you get ideas from everywhere?
R.S.: Yes, my mom’s cooking was mostly American, my grandma was Chinese, and so I have tastes in my mind, flavor profiles, from growing up and from their cooking. I play with them and add different ingredients to create dishes that are similar - but different.
J.M. How do you describe your food to people who’ve never eaten here?
G.O.: It’s food that we enjoy eating. It’s really all about creating food that we enjoy. And we also want them to know that it’s a restaurant about food and not about intimidating fine dining. People feel comfortable here and our staff is casual. They’re good - but they stay out of the way so the guests can have a great experience.
J.M.: Do you have favorites on the menu?
RS: We always have a salmon dish - and right now we have one that’s simple so that flavor really comes through. There’s a little glaze on top and some pickled onions, a little citrus sauce ... it all comes together nicely.
G.O.: The butterfish is one of my favorites (Soy Sake Glazed Fillet of Butterfish) and there’s the ahi (Masago Arare Crusted Ahi Steak).
J.M.: Do you think the menu will ever get any bigger?
G.O.: No! We can’t get any more wood (laughs) - the kitchen can only do a certain amount perfectly and we don’t want to compromise that by making the menu larger.
3660 On the Rise 3660 Waialae Ave. Honolulu 737-1177
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Good, affordable Korean yakiniku
Friday - November 28, 2008
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I know, I know, the last thing you need the weekend after Thanksgiving is suggestions for an all-you-can-eat buffet. But after 24 years as one of the most popular Korean Yakiniku restaurants in town, Camellia Buffet deserves a share of the spotlight. And even if you’ve had enough meat and stuffing to last until at least December, I’m guessing that another couple of days of leftover turkey sandwiches and you’ll be craving kalbi.
Camellia has the largest selection of seafood in town. Mi Hee Jeon is the most recent owner of the original yakiniku that opened in 1984, and she’s devoted to the cause of supplying good food at low prices.
She gets up before dawn to start preparing dishes for a buffet line famous for its kalbi and bulgogi, kim chee and red bean soup. There’s something almost overwhelming about the line of more than 50 items on the allyou-can-eat menu. Lines of raw meats, seafood and dozens of vegetable dishes give diners limitless access to Korean favorites. What’s truly impressive, though, is not simply the buffet, but the fact that owner Mi Hee Jeon and her husband, Chang, are responsible for making the mountains of food every day.
“I get up at 4:30 every morning to begin preparing the vegetables,” says Mi Hee with an enthusiastic smile. “I really love to do it.” Prep includes making gallons of red bean soup - a dish that’s becoming a signature at Camellia. “The soup takes more than three hours to make each morning,” Mi Hee explains, “but it is very good, and people really like it.”
Mi Hee and Chang bought Camellia Buffet four years ago, and have been methodically making subtle changes to the buffet items ever since. With culinary experience gained working in restaurants in Korea (Chang is a pastry chef who owned his own bakery), the two have brought new dishes and a change of flavor to the 24-year-old restaurant.
If you’re going for the first time, you should have high expectations of the food, but less of the décor. With orange plastic booths and seat covers that have seen better days, Camellia is a place where the buffet rather than the banquettes takes center stage. It’s a place for serious eaters rather than social ones, and definitely the place to go if large portions and a small check take precedence over service and ambience.
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For $12.95 at lunch and $19.95 at dinner, there’s access to dozens of dishes - all prepared from scratch.
“We want, of course, to give people good value and the best Korean food,” says Mi Hee.
And despite the $12.95 lunch price, you’ll find sashimi, shrimp and house-made poke on the menu every day.
“Many people come for the seafood,” says Mi Hee, “and especially the poke and sashimi.”
Speaking with the help of an interpreter, Mi Hee explains that one of the changes she’s made at Camellia since taking over is to bring healthier choices to the buffet line and to add even more fresh vegetables than before.
“We took the spice level and heat down a little bit,” she says. “So many more people can enjoy the dishes without having too much heat, and we added another kind of kim chee and some more vegetables.”
Camellia’s regular clientele are a mix of locals who’ve been coming for decades and Japanese tourists who’ve heard about the restaurant’s red bean soup and kalbi. And, in recent months, the restaurant has been seeing more families getting together for gatherings and parties, appreciative of the price.
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The sheer volume of food on the buffet line is quite extraordinary - at lunchtime there are 45 different dishes such as six different types of meat and five different kinds of seafood, including shrimp, squid and sashimi. At night, the selection rises to 50 items. There’s chicken, pork, bulgogi, kalbi and a Korean favorite, abomasum (cow intestine), which is boiled and then marinated in - you’ve guessed - a secret sauce.
“It’s very popular, and there are not too many restaurants that serve it,” says Mi Hee. The intestines don’t really need to be cooked - take them from the chilled counter where they’re marinating and lightly grill them over your tableside yakiniku to get the most flavor. Another delicacy that will appeal to adventurous eaters is Mi Hee’s version of marinated raw shrimp. The shrimp are soaked in a soy sauce mixture that turns their shells and flesh black. Eat them raw or throw them on the grill. “People like the variety of seafood that we offer - there’s something different for them here,” says Mi Hee.
The kalbi, most people agree, is some of the best in town, and everyone I spoke to in the restaurant (all sitting with plates piled high with kalbi and shrimp) agreed that the quality of food at Camellia is hard to beat.
“I come from Waianae to eat here all the time,” one regular customer told me. “The poke and sashimi are the best.”
Manager Mark Descalso has been at the restaurant almost since day one and he’s heard thousands of positive comments about the food in the past 23 years. “People like almost everything on the buffet,” he says.“and they like the price.”
Yakiniku Camellia Buffet 2494 S. Beretania St. 944-0449
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Thanksgiving: The best food day of the year
Friday - November 21, 2008
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There’s no avoiding food on Thanksgiving Day, whether you’re up at 4 a.m. stuffing the turkey or making a pot luck dish to take to a family party, the aroma of the season is all around. But with so many turkeys to go, ready-made meals, supermarket side dishes and restaurant specials, is your time best spent in the kitchen, or hanging out with family and friends at a table where the food’s been cooked by somebody else and the cleanup is all taken care of?
If you’re venturing outside your kitchen this year and are looking for a memorable meal, here are a few tried, true and trusted places where Thanksgiving might not be entirely traditional, but is guaranteed to be good.
Top of Waikiki
The Thanksgiving menu at Top of Waikiki is both beautiful and incredibly good. How do I know? I’ve already eaten it.
In October, I asked Executive Chef Sean Priester to create a menu for a project I was working on, and together we tasted our way through his exquisite herb stuffing with cranberry pineapple jam, cinnamon brown sugar sweet potato raisin hash and pumpkin crème brulee. Sean’s also serving a kabocha bacon soup with mint and sour cream along with roast turkey and gravy this Thanksgiving.
“I look for inspiration everywhere,” he says. “Holidays are big in the restaurant industry, but people expect tradition so I tried to incorporate cranberry sauce, cinnamon and pumpkin and all the flavors of the holidays. And, of course, I had to put sage stuffing on the menu. Couldn’t have Thanksgiving without that.”
Anything Sean has to have on his own plate at home? I ask. “Lots of gravy. Lots and lots of gravy!”
If you’re looking for a gourmet taste of the holidays - at an amazing price (it’s $30 per person), I think you’ll be thrilled with the menu at Top of Waikiki.
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Top Of Waikiki
2270 Kalakaua Ave.
923-3877
$30 per person
Hoku’s Thanksgiving to Go.
Hoku’s Turkey to Go is the first ‘take-out” Thanksgiving dish I tried, and it makes an appearance every year on my “best of” list.
Wayne Hirabayashi is the executive chef in charge of operations at The Kahala Resort, and his local touch with turkey and the trimmings make for a delicately balanced, interestingly flavored, perfectly cooked meal.
If you’re looking to feed four or five people an extremely elegant meal and you want to pick up everything hot and ready to eat, then there’s probably nowhere quite like Hoku’s. Even the pickup is elegant, with Hoku’s staff and chefs clad in whites directing you to specially set up tents for hot meal pick-up. Usually Chef Wayne is there himself, loading up the car - it’s the little touches that make this one of the Island’s best.
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Your $150 Hoku’s dinner includes a 12- to 14-pound roasted turkey with lup cheong, wild rice, apple and chestnut stuffing, one pint of herb gravy, mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables with spiced roasted pumpkin seeds, cranberry sauce, homemade ciabatta bread, a salad of fall garden vegetables, and pumpkin chocolate pie. And if you absolutely have to have more of the gorgeous mashed potatoes and gravy, you can order all of the items a la carte.
Hoku’s Thanksgiving Complete Turkey Dinner
Orders are taken until noon on Wednesday, Nov. 26
739-8888
Panya Bakery Restaurant and Bistro.
Panya Bakery is fast becoming holiday food central. Owners Annie and Alice Yeung started their complete dinner-to-go service five years ago, and this year they sold out in a matter of days.
“People tell us that they love the homemade taste of our food,” says Alice, who painstakingly oversees each pot of gravy and each batch of stuffing. “We make our stuffing a little different, and we include a large appetizer platter, which people seem to like.”
The appetizer alone saves you hours of work - with dishes like crispy salt-and-pepper shrimp, homemade spring rolls, chicken wings and pot stickers all served on a platter large enough to feed four to six people, the pupu platter is just part of the Panya holiday feast.
And while Panya might be sold out for Thanksgiving, the sisters are taking orders for Christmas and New Year, so you might want to plan ahead and book now.
“We have two days of pickups for Thanksgiving - and this year we’ll do Christmas and New Year special menus to go,” says Annie. “It’s a lot of work, but we love it.” Panya also has a full-service bakery where orders for Christmas cakes, yule logs and stolen are now being taken.
Panya Bakery & Express
711 Queen St.
Honolulu.
597-8880
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Sergio’s Italian Thanksgiving
If you’re likely to be eating out next Thursday but don’t necessarily want to go with tradition, then there are several restaurants where the chefs are featuring dishes that reflect both the holiday and their own culinary traditions.
At Sergio’s Italian Restaurant the menu is regional, Italian and filled with gorgeous imported ingredients as well as a bounty of local fish and produce.
“We want people to eat as they would in Italy,” says Chef Alfredo Lee, “especially when it is a holiday.”
Additions to the a la carte menu over Thanksgiving weekend include homemade soup with butternut squash, potatoes, carrots and a crawfish stock, finished with crawfish and Parmesan cheese croutons, Porchetta Con Salsa di Tonno (slow-cooked pork ham with Italian spices and rosemary, finished with Nalo baby greens and a tuna sauce), and Galletto con Mirtillo (baked Cornish game hen stuffed with raisins, pine nuts, fresh herbs and bread crumbs, served with soft polenta and a blueberry sauce).
There’s no turkey on the menu, but there’s a taste of Italy. Pork lovers should try Maialino e Fagioli, a pork chop that’s pan-fried in sunflower oil and served with borlotti beans, black cabbage and garlic mashed potatoes.
Among the desserts is an irresistible warm apple tart served with eggnog gelato.
Sergio’s Italian Restaurant 449 Kapahulu Ave. 737-4461
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Dynamic sushi, affordable dining at Sansei
Friday - November 14, 2008
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If you want an idea of how far sushi is progressing under the creatively watchful eye of D.K. Kodama and his impressive culinary team, you need only glance at the menu behind the sushi bar at the Waikiki Beach location. Dishes like New York Steak Carpaccio, Spicy Tuna Crunch, Local Style Hamachi Kama, Da Bombucha and Kim Chee Salmon sound like they might come with two scoops rice and some mac salad, when in fact they come with nori wraps, topped with bonito flakes, drizzled with unagi glaze or served with ponzu sauce. It’s part of what makes Sansei an exciting, vibrant place to eat. And unlike other, more formidable sushi restaurants, this one offers an added level of comfort: You are going to try new and dynamic sushi, you are not going to faint when the check comes.
“We have a lot of kama’aina specials,” says Ivy Nagayama, “and we have early bird and late-night offers that give guests 50 percent off their food check. It makes dining here very affordable.”
“The food offers a different play on semi-traditional sushi and on Hawaii tastes,” says sushi chef Richard Kobayashi.“For example, we do hamachi poke, but the poke is an unconventional style. We like to take local ingredients and local themes and change them around.”
The food remains highly recognizable, but there’s an element of surprise in almost every bite.
Which all makes sitting at the sushi bar at Sansei a really fun experience.
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“I love to make sushi for the customers sitting here,” says head sushi chef Greg Gabaon, who’s been part of the Sansei team for more than eight years. “It’s away from the heat of the kitchen you can talk to the guests and making sushi is creative.”
Greg spent most of his culinary career learning Japanese techniques from many different hotels and restaurants and his education is ongoing.
“We are always looking at styles of food when we eat out and imagining different sushi dishes,” he says. “We find inspiration from local dishes everywhere we eat.”
The only danger in sitting at the sushi bar might be that you eat too much, because the sushi is as fresh and layered with tantalizing flavors as any in town. It’s easy to begin to work your way through the entire menu, stopping only for a sip of sake or a glass of wine. Some of the most popular new dishes include Torched Kona Kampachi ($13.95), where sashimi rolls are stuffed with sweet Maui Onion, shiso and yuzu aioli, then drizzled with chili pepper tosazu. “It’s a local fish that we like to do in a different way.” says Richard. “Customers really love it.”
One or two of the most memorable dishes I tried recently, the ones that had that ‘more please’ quality included a gorgeous scallop and prosciutto ‘musubi’ where a plump, juicy scallop was wrapped with thinly sliced prosciutto then nori to resemble a gourmet musubi. It was utterly gorgeous, and while it was made for a special omakase menu to celebrate Sansei’s fourth anniversary in Waikiki, Ivy says that many of the popular anniversary dishes will remain on the menu. Let’s hope, because the scallop musubi is an outstanding dish.
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Try the Cajun Seared White Tuna Sashimi ($12.95) if you want to taste simple, fresh, utterly fabulous sashimi. The high grade tuna is served with a shaved Maui onion, red jalapeno, cilantro and a spicy yukke sauce. It slips over the tongue and almost melts in the mouth. Hard to imagine sushi of any better quality than this.
“The white tuna is especially popular,” says Richard. Or there’s the Hawaiian Moi ($13.95), where thin slices of this royal, locally farmed fish are wrapped around sweet Maui onion then seared and drizzled with a truf-fled ponzu reduction.
“Moi is one of the local fish that we’re doing in this new style,” says Richard. “We’re using Japanese ingredients, and white truffle oil and a ponzu sauce. It’s a really nice dish.”
If you move beyond the sushi bar and into the restaurant, what you’ll find is a menu that’s filled with award-winning dishes. From favorites like Shrimp Dynamite (crispy tempura shrimp tossed in creamy garlic aioli ) to Sansei’s Mango Crab Salad Hand Roll, where fresh mango and blue crab are wrapped with local greens and peanuts in colorful mamenori and served with a sweet Thai chili sauce, Sansei has some of the most original Japanese-influenced food in Hawaii. If you’ve never tried D.K’s Crab Ramen with Asian Truffle Broth, then that’s a must, and at Waikiki Sansei the menu borrows dishes from dk Steakhouse next door. (Dry aged steaks appear courtesy of dk’ Steakhouse.
And even though the restaurant is in the heart of Waikiki, expect to see lots of local customers - and kama’aina prices when you visit.
“At first we didn’t know if our regular customers would follow us to Waikiki,” says Ivy. “Lots of them thought they would be intimidated by the drive, but once they came to the restaurant they didn’t have any problems coming back!”
Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar
Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort and Spa
931-6286
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A patisserie at Sam Choy’s - sweet!
Friday - November 07, 2008
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It might come as a surprise to hear the latest designer “pastry shop” is not in one of our busy shopping malls, but rather at Sam Choy’s restaurant.
Ron Viloria is the highly skilled pastry chef at the helm, and is creating some memorable moments in a quiet corner of the restaurant.
Viloria began his culinary career in Guam, worked for some time in Hawaii and has spent the last couple of years in Japan honing his skills.
With a brand new bakery within the restaurant, a glass display cabinet filled with sweet treats at prices that would seem more appropriate at a local bake sale than a sophisticated patisserie, this is one place you should put right at the top of your holiday shopping list. With creations like Pistachio Opera, Japanese Cheesecake and Tarte au Chocolat, Viloria brings outstanding pastry-making to Sam Choy’s. Customers can valet park and shop a la carte, or take home desserts after lunch or dinner.
I stopped by for a taste of Viloria’s newest creations and a chat about what fuels his passion for pastry.
Jo McGarry: How did you decide on pastry chef as a career?
Ron Viloria: I began my chef training at the Guam Hilton - I was born and raised in Guam - and it was a very classical training. There was a European chef at every station in the kitchen and you basically worked your way through the various levels: garde manger, saucier, patisserie - very strict and truly the “old ways” style of learning. So I did that and then when it came to patisserie I immediately thought it would be something I could do.
JM: It seems to me that while almost anyone can be taught to cook, it takes a certain artistic temperament to be able to create pastries.
RV: Well, I think it helps. I graduated with an art degree from the University of Guam, and I do like the artistic element of working with pastry and sugar and chocolate.
JM: The types of pastries and desserts you’re making here at Sam Choy’s are incredibly detailed and beautiful. Do you have to be really passionate about pastries and baking to achieve this kind of level?
RV: The thing is that you can push yourself to a different level when you’re working with chocolate and sugar. It’s demanding and difficult, but you can express yourself and push yourself a little farther, I think.
JM: You just spent considerable time in Japan. What did you learn from that experience, and why Japan?
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RV: (Smiles) Oh, I learned so much. I always keep up with food trends and competition worldwide, and the Japanese are always at the top. There’s a reason for this, I now know. They work 16-and 18-hour days and they are incredibly dedicated to what they do. In the fine-dining restaurant where I worked, something as simple as a tart shell could evoke the deepest concentration. The search for perfection is very strong there.
JM: So is pastry making a Zen thing or a fear thing?
RV: (Laughs) It’s a little of both. It’s really a passion for perfection. Do you know that Tokyo now has more Michelin-starred restaurants than Paris? All over the country there’s an incredible level of dedication to perfecting the dining experience. Where I worked, the minimum lunch was $150 per head, and you can expect to spend upwards of $300 on dinner in a fine-dining restaurant.
JM: How did the experience affect you?
RV: Oh it energized me totally and refocused me, and it enabled me to perfect my pastry-making techniques.
JM: Lucky us! So we can now taste and see all of this at Sam Choy’s.
RV: Yes, I have this corner of the restaurant - Sam’s calling it Ron’s Corner - and we’re using great, high-quality ingredients, and I can guarantee we’re making things you won’t find anywhere else in Hawaii - anything from coconut tarts to macaroons. We do a Japanese cheesecake that’s light and soft - more like an angel food cheesecake - and lots of chocolate. Our Pistachio Opera, for example, is pistachio joconde layered with pistachio butter cream and chocolate ganache, then garnished with pistachio croquant and thin chocolate sheets. I can guarantee no one else is using pistachio in Hawaii! We’re using fresh vanilla beans, high-quality flour, and just great ingredients. I think people will be happy when they stop by and see what we have.
JM: The prices are surprising.
You have little bags of gorgeous cookies for $1!
RV: Yes, we want to be able to keep the prices very affordable and at the same time let people taste some different kinds of cakes and pastries. That’s the great thing about working with someone like Sam Choy - it’s an amazing experience and a great opportunity.
JM: So for the holidays we can expect to see lots of traditional Christmas fare?
RV: Yes, we’ll have yule logs and stolen. I have lots of plans for the holidays - lots of small, reasonably priced cakes, where we’re really focusing on taste.
Sam Choy’s 580 N. Nimitz Hwy. 545-7979
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Freshly made Thanksgiving dinners to go
Friday - October 31, 2008
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If it’s Halloween, it must be time to start thinking about turkey. As a food writer, I’ve always had one small problem with Thanksgiving - dinner is always over when I remember I should have taken food photos, and restaurants never prepare a turkey dinner in advance of the holiday, so no chance to take photos to meet our deadlines. That’s why you see so many stock photos of artificial-looking birds in newspapers around this time of year. So I decided to do something different Saturday and announced we were having “Thanksgiving” for dinner.
“Great,” said my husband. “Make sure there’s stuffing.” There was, but not quite the kind he was expecting.
At Panya Restaurant, sisters Annie and Alice Yeung have been making their Thanksgiving dinners-to-go with a local twist for five years. “We started out making about 50 dinners the first year,” says Annie, “and each year it has grown.”
Last year the restaurant’s large Queen Street kitchen was home to more than 150 birds and their accompanying side dishes.
By happy coincidence, last Saturday Annie and Alice were up early to film with a Japanese TV crew, and that meant there was an entire dinner-to-go waiting to be eaten right after filming; they were more than happy to let me try the first turkey of the year.
What’s different about Panya’s Thanksgiving dinner - and why it’s becoming so popular - has much to do with a fusion of local and traditional flavors. “We like to add different touches to our dinner,” says Alice, “and people seem to like the homemade style of our sauces and dressings.”
What You Get.
* Panya Appetizer Platter (spring rolls, salt-and-pepper shrimp, deep fried chicken wings and Panya gyoza).
* Large salad of mesclun and romaine mix with house dressing
* One 8- to 10-pound honey glazed roasted turkey
* Mochi rice stuffing
* Giblet gravy
* Cranberry ginger sauce
* Pumpkin pie, pumpkin custard pie or pumpkin crunch
* Dinner rolls You may substitute a 6- to 8-pound honey mustard-glazed ham with two pounds of mochi rice, if you prefer.
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How It Comes.
The turkey comes sealed in a foil pan covered with a molded plastic “shield” that fits securely on top, ensuring there are no leaks on your drive home. The packaging was the first thing that impressed me. The pickup was easy and the hot dinner was ready to go. “We’ll do staggered pickup times throughout the morning and early afternoon on Thanksgiving,” says Alice, “and we’re happy to cook dinner on the night before Thanksgiving if that’s what customers would prefer.”
Special note: Some hotels and restaurants offering dinner-togo actually precook the meal and serve it cold. You then have to reheat at home, a process that takes several hours. Panya’s dinners are freshly made and ready to eat. No extra prep is necessary.
“Our meals are ready to take right to the table,” says Annie. “There’s no waiting to reheat the turkey or the ham.”
The Yeungs are guessing that this Thanksgiving there may be more customers than usual interested in their to-go option. “With the price of electricity and gas, we figure some people won’t want to have their ovens on for five or six hours on the day of the holiday,” Annie says. “People can save time on shopping and preparing ingredients, and even on fuel by ordering our dinner.”
How It Tastes.
The pupu platter disappeared in minutes from our kitchen counter. The boys loved the gyoza (there were six), and the spring rolls were an instant hit - light, not greasy and cut into bite-sized pieces. Shrimp (there’s six to eight large salt-and-pepper shrimp) were fabulous and I could easily have eaten more. The platter is completed by dozens of tiny chicken wings. It’s a great time- and money-saver, and all the pupu items were enjoyable.
Salad.
The salad is fabulous and will easily feed six people with generous portions. We were still using the mesclun mix three days later, and the greens stayed fresh. The accompanying house salad dressing is excellent.
The Turkey.
The turkey has a beautifully brown, crisp skin. The meat is moist (it’s basted with chicken broth during cooking), and when I saved leftovers to heat the next day, the meat (reheated with a little chicken stock) was equally moist. The bird is stuffed with a mochi rice stuffing made Chinese-style with shiitake mushrooms, dried shrimp and lap cheong. It adds lots of texture to the plate and is a nice local touch.
Sides.
There’s a large container of cranberry orange sauce, which is well-made with a lovely jammy consistency and subtle citrus and ginger flavors. Giblet gravy is one of Alice’s passions, and she hand-makes every batch using turkey drippings and some secret touches. Dessert.
We had slices of pumpkin pie, which were light and airy typical of Panya’s delicate baking style. A whole pie is enough for six people, but you’ll probably want to pick up an extra one as it’s so good.
The Verdict.
If you don’t want to cook, or if you want to make sure that everything on the table turns out really well, this is a great option that’s well-priced and offers excellent food with a truly home-cooked appeal.
Panya Complete Thanksgiving Meal-to-Go
Price $198 for six people.
Limited number available. A la carte items are also available.
Pick up from Nov. 26 at 711
Queen St.
597-8880
http://www.panyagroup.com
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A popular place for an affordable Italian lunch
Friday - October 24, 2008
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Almost four years to the day since opening at Ala Moana Center, Romano’s Macaroni Grill is set to debut a second location on the Big Island. My guess is even with a depressed economy you can bet the restaurant will be packed.
When the popular Italian restaurant opened in November of 2004 here on Oahu, there were long lines and an average waiting time of almost two hours. Even today it’s best to make reservations for dinner on the weekends.
“We’re fortunate that the restaurant has been popular since the beginning,” says Alex Kirley, regional director of sales and marketing for Hawaii.
The continued success of Macaroni Grill in Hawaii can be attributed to many factors, although a key ingredient is undoubtedly executive chef Mike Longworth, whose culinary experience in Hawaii has taken him from the Black Orchid to executive chef positions at both Sam Choy’s and (now closed) Jackie’s Kitchen. He has the seasoned confidence of a multitasking chef, and is comfortable running a busy kitchen, creating new dishes and training multiple staff members - often all at the same time.
“We’ve just been designated as a certified training location,” he says with a grin, “so we’re training everybody here for the Big Island opening - and hoping to go over and see how they’re doing when they open in November.”
He sees the key to Macaroni Grill’s success in Hawaii in the range of menu items and the “American-Italian” theme.
“We keep it simple and just try to make good food,” says the extremely likeable chef. “We do limited-time dishes that are featured at the front of the menu - that way people can try new dishes but know that their favorites are still on the menu.”
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There’s an economic twist to the current menu, too, with the introduction of “Roma” lunches.
“Everything is going up in price,” says Longworth. “We wanted to do something to make things more affordable so people can still come to lunch once or twice a week.”
With reduced portion sizes comes a reduced check.
“We made the entrée portions a little less, and now you can have lunch from around $8,” he says. “We made the Sicilian Mio Pizza (with sweet Italian sausage, pepperoni, fontina and mozzarella cheese) for one person,” he says. “That way people can order their favorite pizza for lunch without having to take home leftovers.”
Guests can add a garden or Caesar salad or cup of soup for an additional $2.99.
And while portion sizes and prices are less, taste stays the same. Eggplant Parmesan ($10) - hand-breaded eggplant sautéed then baked with tomato sauce, and topped with basil, mozzarella and Parmesan - is now two generous pieces instead of three, and other entrees are smaller too.
“Mostly people want to stop by to enjoy a tasty lunch before going back to work,” says Longworth. “They don’t really want to take leftovers back to the office. With our new lunchtime entrees, we’ve made the options easier.”
And there are half-sized desserts, too.
“We’ve applied the same principle to our desserts,” he says.
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Those with a sweet tooth must try the signature New York Cheesecake, Strawberry Zabaglione, Smothered Chocolate Cake or the incredible Dessert Ravioli (crumbled peanuts, caramel and chocolate in golden-fried pastries, served with vanilla ice cream and caramel).
And for those who’d rather load up than lighten up, the news is also good. New entrees include Layers of Ravioli dishes where four-cheese ravioli is layered with a variety of ingredients then topped with Parmesan breadcrumbs and cheese. Think of it as a lasagna with stuffed ravioli instead of plain noodles as the base.
Variations on the layered theme include Chicken and Artichoke Ravioli, $13.99 (layers of sautéed chicken, prosciutto, artichoke hearts and garlic cream sauce topped with asparagus and roasted tomatoes) and Sicilian Four Cheese Ravioli where Italian sausage, cheese, roasted peppers and onions are layered with a spicy tomato basil sauce.
For family dining, lunch with friends, first dates or full-on family gatherings, it’s hard to beat Macaroni Grill’s bustling, upbeat atmosphere, incredibly positive staff and value-driven pricing. And there’s also the fact that despite being a Mainland chain with more than 225 restaurants worldwide, our Macaroni Grill still manages to make you feel like it’s a neighborhood Italian restaurant.
“It was always important to us from the beginning that we created a place where local people would love to come and eat,” says Kirley.
John Langan, assistant general manager, adds, “People like Macaroni Grill because we are many different things: contemporary, casual and a little upscale; we can be quiet and intimate or boisterous and fun; we are romantic and we can be casual - all at the same time. And we’re perfect for family dining.”
Not sure I could have said it any better myself.
Romano’s Macaroni Grill 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. Ala Moana Center 356-8300 http://www.macaronigrill.com
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A tasty introduction to Wild Ginger
Friday - October 17, 2008
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Jo McGarry is on vacation; This story is written by Don Chapman.
Once again I’m grateful to Jo McGarry for taking a vacation and allowing me to fill in. Because if she were working, I might never have been introduced to Wild Ginger, one of the finest and most unique Chinese restaurants at which I’ve ever had the pleasure of dining.
Located at Waialae and 9th avenues, Wild Ginger opened in November of last year and has gained a popular following. I can see why.
The menu, as co-owner Ben Cheng explained, is half Cantonese and a quarter Thai and Malaysian.
“Some dishes are straight Cantonese,” he says. “Our chef, Chef Lee, is Cantonese and he is excellent. He focuses on the Chinese side. But we also do some creative fusion dishes that are unique to Wild Ginger.”
He emphasizes that no MSG is used and that every dish is prepared to order.
“And the chef makes all of his own sauces, so everything is fresh,” adds Cheng, a McKinley High grad. “He even makes his own soy sauce, does his own Peking chicken and bakes the buns.”
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Some of the sauces get your mouth watering just reading them on the menu: Spicy mango sauce (a delicate balance of tropical fruit in a spicy sauce), Ginger glaze sauce (Japanese sushi ginger and soy sauce) and Zechuan pepper-corn sauce (ground pepper spicy sauce), to name a few.
Even before the food arrived, I was liking Wild Ginger’s tasteful décor. A small fountain, colorful paintings of nature scenes adorning walls, pleasant lighting and beautiful wood chairs were a tipoff that this is not your usual chop suey house. Cheng says the location had previously been a Chinese restaurant,“and they had seating for 100 people. We opened up the room and there is now seating for 70, so it’s a more open and relaxed atmosphere.”
Then the food began arriving with beautiful, artistic presentation worthy of a fine dining restaurant. No, this is not your typical Chinese restaurant.
We started with one of those fusion dishes, Pork Lettuce Wrap appetizer ($7.95), ground spicy pork with chopped vegetables and lettuce for a wrap, and sweet Thai chili sauce. This one is Chinese-Thai and quite savory.
Then came XO Steamed Sea Bass ($14.95), served with asparagus and baby bok choy, topped with a housemade XO sauce: ground scallops, shrimp, onion and pepper. The fish was tender, as good as sea bass gets.
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We also tried Thai Basil Beef ($13.95), served with mushrooms, onion and lots of Thai basil. “If you like basil,” says Cheng,‘You’ll love this dish.” I do, and did.
Perhaps the most dramatic presentation was the Crispy Red Snapper ($16.95), a lightly fried filet served with Malay sweet-sour sauce over a bed of greens and Thai gravy. This memorable dish dish goes into my personal food hall of fame.
Other Wild Ginger favorites include Walnut Shrimp ($14.95) with a twist - prepared tempura style and served with a creamy lime sauce; Peking Duck ($17 for half, $32 for whole), and Calamari Salad ($9.95), crispy calamari served with mixed greens and a lime miso dressing.
Cheng emphasizes that for vegetarians, “We can leave out the oyster sauce or eggs - we can make it vegan.”
Last week Wild Ginger began adding “exotic daily specials.” These include Garlic Golden Tiger Shrimp, Pot Roast Lamb and Pot Roast Pigskin with Duck.
A great way to enjoy Wild Ginger is with a coupon you’ll find in MidWeek, offering 50 percent off a second entree.
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Wild Ginger is open for lunch from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. The lunch menu includes Chinese lunch plate specials for $7.95 that include choice of soup or salad.
Dinner is served from 3 to 9:30 p.m.
Planning a party or have a special occasion? In the back is a party room that can comfortably seat 15 people.
And there’s free parking behind the restaurant off 9th Avenue.
Leaving the restaurant with a happy stomach and contented smile, I thanked Jo, knowing I’d just found a new favorite restaurant.
Wild Ginger 3441 Waialae Ave. 738-1168
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Heading to Kakaako for comfort food
Friday - October 10, 2008
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Kakaako Kitchen might be famous for its plate-lunch style and laid-back atmosphere, but when it comes to creating dishes that people crave, there’s no place that does it better.
Need a fix of shoyu chicken, two scoops and mac salad? It’s on the menu every day, along with Crispy Fried Sweet Chili Chicken ($8.75), Beef Stew ($7.95), Sweet and Sour Spareribs ($7.95), Pot Roast ($8.25), Meat Loaf ($7.95), Sautéed Mahimahi ($10.50) and a host of other hot entrees, salads and sandwiches.
With a menu of plate lunch favorites and Styrofoam-boxed comfort food, it’s easy to find a favorite. I go for the Chinese Five Spice Shoyu Chicken ($7.75) with a side of Nalo greens, no rice. Occasionally I’m tempted by the mahimahi with brown rice and salad, and without rigorous restraint I could eat the turkey and mashed potatoes every day.
But I’m not the only one who orders the same thing every visit. “Everyone does that,” says owner Russell Siu. “I do it too.”
For sushi cravings, he goes to Mitch’s; for oysters Rockefeller it’s Chart House; and for pork chops “it’s gotta be Side Street,” he says with a grin. “I expect those dishes to be on the menu there.”
For Kakaako Kitchen Chef Ben Aiana, his favorite is a grilled pastrami sandwich ($8.50), although he admits to liking almost everything on the menu.“I like stuff pretty simple,” says Aiana, who was recently promoted to head chef.
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The menu does change - recent items like Furikake Tempura Catfish with Ponzu Sauce ($8.29), Island Style Chicken Linguine and Two Tofu Sauté ($7.95) have become instant winners - but it’s getting hard to find space to add new entrees.
You can’t touch the beef stew, the Chinese five spice shoyu chicken or the mahi plate, says the staff, and don’t even think about moving the hamburger steak or the meat loaf.
So when the food is this good and this consistent, you can be pretty sure that the catering department sends out more of the same. Dena Togafau is the catering manager responsible for coordinating orders for anything from small backyard parties of 20 to gatherings of hundreds.
“We cater to everyone, really,” she says.“Most people know that we serve a plate-lunch kind of menu, so even if there’s a group smaller than 20, we can work with them to order from our menu and serve the food buffet style.”
For larger parties, choose from a vast catering menu, or ask the chefs to design something for your event.
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“We’ll customize anything people want,“says Togafau.“People tell me their budget, the kinds of food they like, and then Russell puts together a fabulous menu.”
And with portion sizes known to be generous, there’s never any worry that guests may go home hungry.
“It’s the opposite with our catering,“says Togafau, “Guests go home with leftovers.”
From bento boxes ($7.75) packed with homemade meatloaf, crispy fried sweet chili chicken, furikake salmon, steamed rice and wok-fried noodles, to pupu platters that start at $16.75 and include assorted veggies, potato mac salad, crispy fried sweet chili chicken, char siu chicken, spring rolls with a plum sauce, mahi katsu strips with green onion aioli and wok-fried noodles, there’s something for everyone. There are a la carte platters that serve about 50, or smaller, casual barbecue menus with pupu like grilled salmon skewers, mac nut chicken on a stick, bruschetta, toasted eggplant crostini, and crab salad-stuffed mushrooms.
Set lunch and dinner buffet menus start at $18.25 with an Island-themed buffet of Nalo Greens, potato mac salad, crispy fried sweet chili chicken, sautéed mahi dori with lemon ginger sauce, wok-fried veggies, steamed rice and double chocolate brownies.
Kakaako Catering also has a breakfast buffet that includes dozens of items, including corned beef hash, bacon and smoked ham, steamed rice, fruit skewers, coffee, tea and French toast. Perfect for that business meeting that needs to get off to a great start.
The large menu works well when helping people decide what they want, says Togafau.“It is a lot of food, but it means that people get exactly what they want for their party.”
Behind the scenes, the large menu doesn’t pose many problems for Chef Aiana and his staff.
“We’re pretty organized and just having everyone on the same page is crucial to things running smoothly,” he says.
So with a menu that can’t get much bigger and a catering business that bridges the gap between plate-lunch flavor and elegant buffet, what can Kakaako do next?
How about curbside pickup for dinner?
“We’re thinking of introducing prepared meals and entrees with side dishes pretty soon,” says Siu. “We know that a lot of people don’t have time to shop or cook during the week, and we want to be able to provide good food for families at a reasonable price.”
Simply call ahead, order dinner and drive by.
“We want to take the hassle out of cooking for people,” says Siu. “Give them more time to spend relaxing.”
And eating well.
Kakaako Kitchen Catering
1200 Ala Moana Blvd.
Honolulu
596-7491
catering@kakaakokitchen
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New Sergio’s makes Kapahulu a tastier avenue
Friday - October 03, 2008
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When Sergio’s Italian Restaurant opened last Friday on the site formerly occupied by Sam Choy’s Diamond Head, guests were surprised by several things: A sampling of free pizza, valet parking and a menu priced to attract casual diners looking for excellent Italian food.
“It’s our intent that this Sergio’s will be accessible to all local residents,” says owner George Vandeman. “At Sergio’s Italian Table, our restaurant at Hilton Hawaiian Village (which will remain open, concentrating on family style dining for hotel guests), that was not really the case. At Sergio’s Italian Restaurant we intend to change that.”
He also intends to change the way you think about pizza.
“Chef Alfredo Lee makes an incredible Tuscan (thin crust) pizza that is spectacular,” enthuses George, “so we naturally want our guests to try it. As soon as they sit and order drinks, they’ll be offered a taste of this amazing pizza - we think they’ll love it.”
The opportunity for Chef Alfredo to show off his pizza making talents along with his regional cooking skills is one both chef and owner are excited about.
“I think that local people like the kind of food I make,” says the Tuscan-born Lee, who moved to Hawaii seven years ago. “I’m happy to be here, sharing my food with the people of Hawaii.”
Lee was the chef at Spada, a short-lived restaurant on Bethel Street that gained an enthusiastic following, and he worked at Buon Amici before moving to Sergio’s in early 2007.
With a passion for great ingredients ( the menu mixes local produce with imported Italian cheese, meats and olive oils) he is able to create dishes like Bruschetta Cruda ($12), a mouthwatering antipasti plate of grilled homemade ciabatta bread stacked with local tomatoes, Nalo Farms arugula, garlic, basil, asparagus, Prosciutto di Parma, shaved Parmesan cheese and drizzled with garlic-basil oil, that will blow away any former notion you had of a bruschetta topped with tomatoes and olive oil.
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The house antipasta plate of prosciutto, melon, mozzarella caprese, cured meats, zucchini, stuffed eggplant, tomato bruschetta and calamari with a marinara sauce ($13 per person, minimum two orders), should have Italian food lovers beating a path to Lee’s door.
And with prices reduced to reflect the more casual style of the Kapahulu restaurant, Lee is now able to offer his excellent Italian food at an incredibly reasonable price.
Tuscan pizza, for example - the thin-crust, hand-rolled variety topped with homemade tomato sauce, sausage, ham and cheese imported from Italy - starts at $11 and increases by just a dollar for the Schiacciatina Con Patate (an oval-shaped pizza topped with Maui onions, mozzarella and Fontina cheese, Yukon gold potatoes and sage).
A local favorite is sure to be the Pizza Mediterranea ($15), topped with butterflied tiger shrimp, grilled zucchini, feta cheese and kalamata olives, alongside the Calzone ($13), stuffed with tomato sauce, cheese, Italian sausage and bell peppers).
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Entrees include hand-made pastas made to recipes used by Lee’s Italian grandmother. Pici All Senese ($24) is handmade egg trenette (ribbon) pasta with Italian sausages, thyme, porcini mushrooms, tomato sauce, garlic, shal-lots and Parmesan cheese.
Lobster lovers will appreciate Lee’s gentle touch with hand-made, pillowy ravioli stuffed with Kona lobster, ricotta cheese, leeks and bread crumbs, and then finished with a rock shrimp and lobster cream sauce. This Turtei Arragosta ($27) is one of several dishes where the pasta is made fresh daily.
“Chef Lee has an incredible pedigree and background in cooking styles from all regions of Italy,” says George, “and our guests can look forward to some authentic and truly amazing dishes.”
Vandeman first discovered Sergio’s when it was in its original incarnation at the Ilima Hotel and has had a passion for the food ever since.
“I loved Sergio’s from back in the ‘80’s when I used to come frequently to Hawaii on business,” he says.
In putting Lee in charge of the kitchen, Vandeman now has the authenticity that any great Italian restaurant needs, and his dream of Sergio’s becoming a premier Italian dining spot is nearing reality.
The Kapahulu location and attractive pricing should draw local diners keen to experience rustic, Italian home cooking, steaks, fresh pasta and hearty entrees like pancetta crusted pork chop, ossobuco and boneless chicken cooked in traditional Tuscan style, under a brick.
Growing up in Tuscany, Alfredo Lee was surrounded by fresh produce and a family of talented chefs and farmers. He learned to cook by watching his grandmother who’d barter produce she’d grown in exchange for wine and cheese.
“We had a chestnut farm, and my grandma would trade our chestnuts with other farmers early in the morning before market,” he says.“At home, she cooked all day long.”
Vandeman is confident that once diners taste Alfredo’s food, they’ll be back. “We want people to enjoy excellent Italian food at an affordable price,“he says.” And we could-n’t be more delighted to bring Sergio’s to a location that’s accessible to everybody.”
Sergio’s Italian Restaurant 449 Kapahulu Ave.
737-4461
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A new fall menu debuts at Vino
Friday - September 26, 2008
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Keith Endo loves to cook. He began cooking as a teenager in Hilo and when he’s not in the kitchen at Vino, he’s at home cooking up new creations on his days off.
“Cooking kept me out of trouble when I was a kid,” he says. While he spent years at Sansei working with sushi and contemporary Japanese dishes, he’s always seemed most comfortable creating European-inspired comfort food.
As a new menu debuts for fall, I sat down with Keith for a chat about seasonal foods, wine pairings and what to expect on the Vino menu this month.
Jo McGarry: I love the colors of these new dishes. If you ever wanted to see autumn on a plate you have it here, I think.
Keith Endo: Thank you. It’s so much fun in the kitchen right now - the colors are supposed to reflect fall, and I wanted to really bring the brightest colors of autumn to the plates. We’ve tried to do that with oranges and yellows, squash, pumpkin, tomatoes, and then the rustic browns of gravy, sauces. Roasted beets, warm Brie, homemade gnocchi - all those kinds of comforting, colorful foods. As I said, it’s a lot of fun right now!
JM: Is this a time of year you enjoy cooking?
KE: I enjoy cooking all the time, obviously, but this is a time of year that’s great - it’s right in between summer and winter and so we have to create dishes that aren’t too heavy, but have an almost wintry appeal. It’s a nice challenge to have. As we get into winter, you’ll see heartier dishes.
JM: I would never have imagined serving lobster ceviche on top of pumpkin bisque, but it works really well.
KE: I wanted to do something progressive, so there’s the hot soup with something chilled, and the sweetness of the lobster brings out the sweetness that’s naturally in the pumpkin. And then there’s a nice contrast and balance and some texture from the lobster, too. Because the bisque is so rich, there’s lemon juice to brighten it up a little, and that’s perfect with the ceviche. So it works.
JM: One of the things you’re known for at Vino is pairing dishes with many different wines. Between wine dinners, a regular menu and visiting winemakers, you really have to put together a wide variety of food.
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KE: Yeah. It’s really an honor, though, to work with the kind of winemakers who come to Vino - and to work with Chuck Furuya.
JM: So how does it happen? Does Chuck describe the wines and the winemakers before you begin creating the food?
KE: First thing he does is give us the profile of the wines and the winemaker, and then we work the food around that.
JM: You started cooking at an early age, didn’t you?
KE: Both of my parents worked and I had to fend for myself on the weekends. Instead of getting into a whole bunch of trouble, I started cooking when I was about 12. I liked it right away and got into it more as I got older.
JM: You seem to change the menu at Vino every couple months. Is that right or is time just moving too fast for me?
KE: No, you’re almost right. It’s about every 12 weeks or so. We change the menu and make it seasonal where possible - and we’re finding produce at its very best and using it in different ways.
JM: Can you tell us some of the new dishes that are on the menu now?
KE: Roasted beet salad with Kamuela tomatoes and warm Brie, there’s the pumpkin bisque with lobster ceviche that we mentioned, there’s homemade gnocchi and braised short ribs with shaved, crispy Maui onion.
JM: The food at Vino has evolved from its earlier incarnation as small, tapas-like plates into much heartier dishes.
KE: It’s definitely rustic. Food doesn’t need to be fancy or “frou frou” for people to enjoy it. I like it more this way - simple, rustic and earthy - and I think people enjoy this kind of food, too. You don’t look at it and think “How do I eat this?”
It’s comfort food. Working with Italian-influenced food makes it easier, too, because you just think of people living and working in Italy and what they might be eating at home. I imagine they are sipping great wines after a day at work and eating food that’s hopefully like this.
JM: One of your signature dishes is the short ribs with Maui onions. I love this dish.
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KE: It’s definitely one of my favorites. I love the texture of the dish - and who doesn’t love short ribs? I think that a lot of people in Hawaii can understand and identify with a dish like this. It’s not off the chart, people aren’t afraid to try it and it works on all levels. I first made this dish years ago. It won the Maui Onion contest one year.
JM: Every time I eat something here that I love, I come back and you’re onto the next menu!
KE: Well, we like to keep things different, but you’ll always find some of the same dishes. You just need to keep coming in to make sure you don’t miss anything.
Vino Restaurant
Row 500 Ala Moana Blvd.
524-8466
CHUCK FURUYA’S TIPS ON PERFECT PAIRINGS THIS SEASON AT VINO
Short Ribs with Maui Onions: 2000 Pira Boschis Barolo “Vita Nuova”
For me, the king of Italian red wines has to be Barolo. Yes, there are an remarkably growing number of “other” red wines coming out of Italy today, but somehow the Nebbiolo grape variety stands alone in terms of nobility, grandeur, soulfulness and uniqueness. Owner Chiara Boschis is certainly one of the contemporary winemaking phenoms of Barolo, and this 2000 has enough profound depth and structure to pair well with this robust dish, and is provocative, intriguing and layered to add dimension to the food.
Pumpkin Bisque with Lobster Ceviche: 2006 La Cala Vermentino di Sardegna
This is an amazingly delicious, completely refreshing white wine from the picturesque Isle of Sardegna that totally refreshes the palate between bites.
Roasted Beet Salad With Kamuela Tomatoes and Warm Brie: 2007 Domaine Fontsainte Corbieres Gris de Gris
Wonderfully fruit driven, yet surprisingly elegant, effortlessly light and crisp pink wines are the very style of wine one would find served at cafes and bistros along the Mediterranean basin with dishes like this. They work magically together. The secret is always finding the really good ones - and this is certainly one.
House-made Gnocchi with Jumbo Lump Crab: 2006 Terredora Falanghina Keith Endo has a real touch with gnocchi. His are amazingly light and pillowy, which he pan sears to crisp up the outer edges without taking away from the softness. This wine, Falanghina is another indigenous grape variety to Italy. It has been grown on the volcanic slopes of Mt. Vesuvius for centuries. The terre-dora rendition has a distinctive basil-like nuance which, coupled with earthy, minerally, floral qualities, make this an absolutely delicious, food-friendly white wine.
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What’s new with Chef Hiroshi Fukui
Friday - September 19, 2008
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When you visit restaurants for a living and eat four times as often as most people do, there are a couple of things you learn along the way. The first is to take really small bites, and the second is to listen to what chefs are saying.
In the 15 years or so that I’ve been writing about food, I’ve come to know many chefs well, and it’s fairly easy for me to spot when they’re off on a new track with their food or consumed by a new passion.
In the day-to-day reporting on restaurant news, special menus or whatever needs to be done, it’s refreshing to chat with chefs who are constantly inspired by their environment.
So when I went to visit Hiroshi Fukui, executive chef at Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas, the other day, I noticed immediately a sparkle in his eyes and an energized enthusiasm for the food he was preparing.
What’s up at Hiroshi’s? Well, for one thing, he’s in the middle of returning to his traditional Japanese roots (just for an evening) and to the traditional kaiseki cooking that’s obviously close to his heart.
I sat down with him over a few beautifully crafted dishes and talked about the new fall menu at Hiroshi’s and the upcoming kaiseki dinner.
Jo McGarry:
So I wanted to chat with you about the kaiseki dinner, but these dishes are absolutely gorgeous. Can you tell me what’s going on with this shrimp? It looks like a painting.
Hiroshi Fukui:
Thank you.
This is a sous vide of Kauai shrimp. It’s cooked in a bag at 140 degrees for about 4 minutes and then seared. It’s served with squid ink pasta, Big Island hearts of palm and Whole Farms long beans with kim chee lemon grass sauce.
JM: It’s beautiful. And I love the Brussels sprouts tossed on the plate - a great garnish. There’s a beautiful kampachi dish here - with foam?
HF: Yes, that’s the Kona kampachi seared so it’s almost medium rare and served over wilted Nalo tatsoi in a curried lemon grass broth with a pineapple air and orange aioli.
JM: You love using foam!
HF: I do. It’s reduced and intensified pineapple juice and you use a hand blender to create the foam part. It’s a really simple technique but it gives a subtle essence of the flavor and it adds to the dish without being heavy or too intense.
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JM: I love this beef sushi, and the seared fish ...
HF: Actually, it’s torched. The fish is cold-smoked hamachi, and people love this because its really fatty. We serve it with wasabi aioli and wrap it with nori. At Hiroshi, all our sushi portions come in four pieces, so you can share them or you can have them as an entrée.
The beef is from Maui Cattle Company. Whenever we can get beef from them we use it, especially the filet mignon. Right now we’re using the filet in this fire-roasted filet mignon sushi with cumin seed and garlic and scal-lion ragout on top and a chili pepper water jelly.
JM: You’re really well known and respected for your ability to create contemporary dishes for kaiseki dinners that are 10 courses long, and you also create different dishes for numerous wine dinners you host with Chuck Furuya. But you’re doing a traditional kaiseki this month.
HF: Yes, I’ve been doing the contemporary kaiseki for several years now, and in between we do wine dinners and special menus, but I wanted to go back to my roots. We’re calling it “almost kaiseki” because we don’t really have all the original plates you need for traditional. But the dishes will be not at all contemporary.
JM: Once, when we spoke about three years ago, you told me it was so nice to be free from the confines of traditional Japanese cooking and the intensity of kaiseki. Did you start to miss the history and your culinary heritage?
HF: Yes, absolutely! Twenty-five years ago when I worked at Furusato in Waikiki, that’s all I used to do every day. And since then I haven’t done any of it. I do miss it. I wanted to return to my roots.
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JM: Do you already have the menu planned?
HF: Somewhat. I’m doing unagi tofu as the kobachi (amuse bouche) and then I’m doing this dish with kurobuta pork belly marinated in water and ginger and sugar for four hours, and then topped with a potato sauce - you add the ginger and the pork broth to the potato until they are thin like sauce.
JM: You seem so energized and happy talking about this menu.
HF: (Laughs) yes, I am. It’s what I grew up with. It’s obviously something that I miss! There was a strictness to my training that’s different today. In those days the chefs were so strict that they would hit your head if you did something wrong. I’m not saying I miss that, but it’s nice to be going back to what I learned all those years ago.
Hiroshi’s “Almost” Traditional Kaiseki
Sept. 26
Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas
Restaurant Row
533-HIRO
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The ‘wow’ factor at Top of Waikiki
Friday - September 12, 2008
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If you haven’t been to Top of Waikiki in a while, it’s time to take another look.
Savvy foodies are already aware of the changes that executive chef Sean Priester has been making to the menu these past few years, and now the restaurant has had a complete makeover (perhaps the most overdue in Honolulu restaurant history), too.
“There’s been a lot of hype recently about the restaurant,” says Priester.“Partly, of course, it’s the renovation, but we’re happy to see that it’s also people talking about the menu.”
This column is too short - and the menu worthy of all available words - for me to write much about the new décor. Suffice to say it all looks lovely and the view is as breathtaking as ever.
Now, back to the food.
Priester is making some of the most visually thrilling, artistically presented, palate-pleasing food in Honolulu, and in the past few years, his style has become clearer and more intense.
“We are totally focused on what we’re doing here,“says the passionate and immensely likeable Priester. “We focus on quality ingredients and execution, but at the end of the day I believe when people go out to eat, they don’t want to experience things that they can eat or make at home. The restaurant business is also the entertainment business.”
I’ve heard similar comments for years from chefs convinced they’ve come up with the new version of fusion, but I believe Priester is one of a rarer breed, capable of perfecting the delicate balance among execution, quality and taste. At Top of Waikiki there are two true things: The food looks beautiful and the flavors work.
“I feel like it’s up to me to use my voice as a chef to totally wow people when they come to the restaurant,” he says.
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While years ago the view was the only memorable part of a visit to Top Of Waikiki, today the food could be changing opinions.
“Let’s face it,” says Priester. “Lots of the guests are coming up here because of the view. The thrill is to be able to wow them with the food.”
With dishes like American Kobe cheeseburger Wellington, Niman Ranch Kalbi Ribs and Hawaiian Snapper Sous Vide, it’s hard to tear your eyes away from the plates.
And what’s fun about Priester’s food is the menu reads like a culinary autobiography of the chef. Priester is inspired by the ordinary events of everyday life - a train trip in Spain, a farmers’ market, other chefs and his own Southern background - and all of these influences can be found on his plates.
A recent trip to Europe, for example, inspired the Tapas of Waikiki ($24), where roasted vegetables and mushroom escabeche (inspired by a trip to Spain) sit next to mini Camembert and tomato sandwiches. French soft cheese, lightly poached pears and Serrano ham (memories of a sandwich he ate on a train in Barcelona) are plated next to miniature tortillas and Nicoise salad on a stick - the classic ingredients of potato, olive, tuna, green beans, anchovy and egg a delightfully deconstructed salad.
The Cheeseburger Wellington ($29) presentation is perfect, with Kobe beef, braised pancetta and truffle foie gras combined to make a “burger” topped with wild mushroom duxelle and Havarti, Swiss and Provolone cheeses, all wrapped Wellington-style in a sesame seed puff pastry bun.A sheet of wax paper gives the impression of a fast-food burger, tiny cipollini onion rings serve as French fries, balsamic tomato reduction works as ketchup, wasabi Dijon aioli as mayonnaise, and grilled romaine and pickled cucumbers finish the garnish.
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“It’s inspired by Daniel Boulud’s gourmet burgers,“says Priester,“so we took that concept and created what I think is a very powerful statement - and the best burger in Honolulu.”
Memories of Priester’s Southern childhood are evident, too, in one of his favorite dishes, Indo Latino Gulf Shrimp and Grits ($22) and for evidence of the influence of Asian food on his cooking, look no further than Miso Soup ($29), where misoyaki butterfish, tempura scallop and shrimp tofu soufflé combine with braised baby bok choy and white shimeji mushrooms in a miso broth topped with pickled carrots and daikon.
You’ll find Priester most Saturday mornings at the KCC farmers’market, where he’s been a regular visitor since its opening, and Nalo Farms tatsoi, Maui onions, Kukui sausage, Kahuku corn, local tomatoes and Kona kampachi are on a menu that sings of local produce.
There’s free validated parking (a rarity in Waikiki), and prices have been kept to well below most fine-dining competitors. Appetizers start at $9, and entrees are between $22 and $39.
“We’ve tried to make it inviting and exclusive,” says Priester. “We want people to leave here feeling like the value they get is exceptional.”
And as word spreads about the incredible food and Priester’s dedication to his art and to detail, locals are beginning to flock back to the Waikiki monument that first opened in 1965.
“We’re calling Wednesday night ‘local night,’” he says, laughing. “There are definitely groups of local people who are starting to come back, and we really appreciate them.”
While the view and the refurbishments at Top of Waikiki are certainly worthy of a new look, it’s the chef who’ll get your full attention.
Top of Waikiki Waikiki Business Plaza 923-3877
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Casual fine dining with a local flair
Friday - September 05, 2008
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The last time I stopped by Lily Koi Restaurant and chatted with chef Keith Ogata, he explained his idea of bringing fine dining with a local flair to the Pearlridge area.
“We want to bring French-influenced, local-style food in a casual atmosphere,” he told me of the ambitious menu. Certainly all the food I tasted was excellent - from a grilled veggie sub sandwich on house-made bread to a fresh catch of the day simply sautéed, and tender chicken Parmesan over linguine.
On that first meeting, I was incredibly impressed with Ogata’s food and felt sure that given enough time, local people would realize they’d something special amid the fast food restaurants and box stores of Aiea.
Today, a year or so later, Lily Koi is coming into its own and is working on two levels - a casual restaurant serving excellent food, and a bustling night club scene with karaoke contests and live entertainment. It’s a mix that not too many people could pull off, but owner Dennis Kinoshita thinks he knows what his customers want.
“We listened a lot to what people want from our place,” he says, “and we’ve tried to accommodate that.”
One of the initial problems that had to be overcome at Lily Koi was an impression that the fine dining-styled menu might be pricy.
“We had folks open the door and say, ‘oh, it looks too fancy,’” says Keith. “But they soon realized that it’s not too pricy and that we’re pretty relaxed.”
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What foodies will soon realize, too, from a look at the menu that features twin marinated grilled pork chops ($20.95), clams and linguini ($17.95) and marinated rib eye ($12.95) is that the food offers some of the best value around.
Keith Ogata returned to Hawaii (he’s a Castle High School and KCC grad) last year, having spent a decade or so working with star chefs like Joachim Splichal, honing his skills in Vegas. He left famous restaurant Pinot Brasserie at The Venetian to come back and open Lily Koi, lured back in part by his desire to create local food with a classic twist and in part at the urging of Kinoshita, who is his cousin.
“I started going to Vegas two or three times a year to visit Keith,” says Kinoshita, “and I started to really enjoy the diversity of the food over there. Not just the fine dining, but all of the food. Keith and I began to talk about him coming back and bringing that kind of food to this side of the island.”
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Today, have lunch or dinner at Lily Koi and you’ll see that they’re doing what they set out to.
“People seem to love the dishes,” says Ogata of a menu that includes fall-off-the-bone short ribs ($18.95), salt and pepper pork ($17.95), tonkatsu ($10.95), braised pork belly ($16.95), and kalua pig and cabbage ($12.95), alongside elegant entrees like oven-roasted herb chicken ($16.95), pan-seared scallops ($20.95) and grilled rack of lamb ($17.95).
Ogata explains the menu by saying that it’s local food with some French cooking techniques. “Everything I do begins with classically French techniques,” he says. “Then there are flavors and styles borrowed from California, local flavors and Asian influences.” It’s all adding up to an incredibly well-executed menu.
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I all but devoured a rack of lamb (being served as a special and not yet on the regular menu) cooked perfectly medium rare with pan-roasted potatoes, mushrooms and shallots on a bed of rich Bordelaise sauce. Simply seasoned with salt and pepper, seared and then finished in the oven, the New Zealand rack ($17.95) is an outstanding dish, and one that I’d be happy to make the long trek to Pearlridge any day for. And the dish is a great example of why Ogata’s food is both surprising and comforting - surprising because if you’re new to Lily Koi and its restaurant/lounge/nightclub theme, you’re certainly not expecting this standard of food, and comforting because if a difficult dish like rack of lamb is this good, you can only imagine how good the pork belly or a hamburger might be.
If you’re going for the first time and can’t decide, try the signature short ribs. There’s immediate evidence of Ogata’s classic French technique in the rich, deep lilikoi sauce that smothers them. “They’re simply done,” he says.
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In trying to define Lily Koi’s style (and that’s tough, because of the happy hour, late-night cabaret, karaoke and live entertainment that are as much a part of the place as the restaurant), I’m going to say it’s part French brasserie and part plate lunch, which makes for an interesting visit no matter which side of the gourmet food debate you’re on. At lunch (Friday, Saturday and Sunday only) there’s an excellent eggplant Parmesan sub ($5.95) and a traditionally classic French dip ($9.95) of sumptuous shaved prime rib with a hot au jus, alongside a barbecue pulled pork sandwich ($6.95) and duck breast salad ($10.95) - regional dishes that are almost all a combination of classic cooking and comfort food.
“It’s relaxed here, it’s not too fancy, and the prices are reasonable,” says Dennis, “but we feel that the food is really something different.”
Lily Koi Restaurant and Lounge 98-150 Kaonohi St.
Aiea Open: 3:30 p.m.-2 a.m. Lunch: 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Friday-Sunday
Dinner: 4:30-10 p.m. nightly Happy Hour : 3-7 p.m. 486-8488
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Getting all fired up about Mexican food
Friday - August 29, 2008
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Augustin Cardenas has a theory about Mexican food. It’s an answer, of sorts, to the eternal complaint of those who live in our culinary diverse city and yet complain constantly that there’s no “authentic Mexican food.”
“The thing about Mexican food is that it’s different in every Mexican restaurant you visit,” says the owner of Mexico Lindo in Kailua and Mexico Restaurant on School Street. “Even in my home town, each restaurant does things differently. It’s really impossible to say that there’s only one style.”
Cardenas is from Guadalajara, the world tequila capital. His father was in the food business, and Cardenas grew up with an appreciation of good food.
“When I came to Hawaii,“he says in heavily accented English,“I wanted to be able to share some of my culture through food, so it made sense to me to open a restaurant.”
He believes that food, tequila and music make for the happiest of marriages, and since opening in Kailua four years ago,Mexico Lindo has earned a reputation for serving large portions in a relaxed environment. The intent is for people to come and have a good time.“We have mariachi players, we have a great selection of tequila and we have good food,” he says with a smile.“This is a very happy place.”
There’s a warm, rustic appeal to the décor, which mixes terra cotta walls with Mexican folk art, brought to the restaurant from Agustin’s hometown.
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The menu offers most of the usual American Mexican fare we’re used to seeing, and while flavors are hot and portions generous, it would be fun to see this Mexico Lindo crew let loose with a few more flavors from home. When Cardenas offers specials or dishes that deviate from the regular Mexican fare, they’re exciting and full of flavor.
“My wife will do specials occasionally,” he says describing a favorite mouthwatering dish of filet mignon grilled, diced and served with bacon, cheese and chorizo, simmered in the steak juices and served with salsa fresca and fresh beans on the side. “We do it as a surprise sometimes,” he says.
Other dishes of note, and ones where Mexico Lindo can certainly attract regulars who love seafood, include a fiery Diablo Shrimp ($15.50), where shell-on, large shrimp are sautéed with roasted garlic and white wine. There’s a fairly addictive Queso Dip ($8.50) that comes with chorizo and homemade crispy tortilla chips - impossible to take just one bite - and there’s an impressive salsa fresca that’s obviously a homemade favorite, and comes as a side dish with most entrees or as a side for $1.50. The freshly diced onion, jalapeno and tomato base make it a great accompaniment to everything from plain chips to rellenos and tacos.
For those who love fajitas, order the Guadalajara Fajitas ($18.25), where a sizzling skillet comes weighed down with marinated steak, chicken and shrimp with bell peppers, onions and mushrooms served with flour tortillas, guacamole, sour cream, beans and salsa fresca.A portion for two is $32, but the generous single platter will feed most appetites and leave room for a different entrée.
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The fish dishes are a good bet. “We’ve always been fish lovers,“he says. “My father sold fish for 25 years, and we grew up cooking and eating it almost every day. We have several fish dishes that are really popular.” Seafood entrees include Real Crab Enchiladas ($14.95) - two flour tortillas filled with crab meat and cream cheese, topped with a homemade verde sauce; and Mexico Shrimp ($15.50), where a large flour tortilla is filled with Spanish rice, sautéed garlic shrimp and mushrooms, then topped with cheese and sour cream. And no Mexican restaurant worth its chili pepper has a menu without ceviche ($11.50). The Mexico Lindo version is made with shrimp and marinated in lemon juice. Fish Tacos ($12.95) are two corn tortillas filled with grilled fish and served with guacamole, cheese and lettuce, and daily specials include dishes like sautéed mahimahi with salsa and wine. One of the most popular entrees is the Mamamia Burrito ($13.95), where sautéed fish and shrimp are wrapped burrito-style with tomatoes, onions, olives and garlic and topped with salsa fresca, and papaya and avocado salsa.
Desserts are interesting and offer a little more than the usual Mexican fare, with Fried Banana Split ($4.50), Fried Ice Cream ($4.25) and Churros ($4.25) on the “postres"menu.There’s a nice selection of Mexican jarritos (soft drinks), too, that come in refreshing flavors of tamarind, watermelon,pineapple,manzana (apple) and toronja (grapefruit).
There’s music on weeknights - mariachi musicians bring their lively songs and stroll through the dining room - and the one song that’s popular every evening is, naturally, Mexico Lindo.
“It’s a happy song,one that everyone knows,“says Cardenas.“It’s why we named the restaurant Lindo we want people to feel happy that they’re here.”
Mexico Lindo 600 Kailua Road No. 109 263-0055 Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday 10 a.m.-9 p.m.
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The restaurant that has it all
Friday - August 22, 2008
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With a view of the beach at Ala Moana, trade winds that breeze through open windows and a menu that’s packed with fresh food, Longhi’s offers some of the best eating in town.
From early morning, when the aroma of freshly baked breads and pastries drifts from the bakery to the restaurant, through sunny lunches, happy hours and dinner, Longhi’s is one of the restaurants I associate most with good food, family-style eating and fun.
Owner Bob Longhi knows good quality and instinctively understands family-style dining, the art of great conversation and the simple pleasures that come from a meal shared with good friends.
“My dad started Longhi’s because he used to throw these huge parties when we lived in Washington,” says co-owner Charlie Longhi.
The parties grew so famous and to such proportions that people would say to Bob,“Why don’t you open a restaurant?”
I’m never really sure whether it’s the Mediterranean-inspired food, the great company, the positive energy or the breathtaking views (particularly at sunset), but whatever it is, Longhi’s works.
“The Longhi style is infectious,” agrees general manager Mary Ann Bowman. “At Longhi’s, we really want people to have a great time. I feel like people are coming to my house when they’re in the restaurant, and I want them to leave happy and feeling like they can’t wait to come back. Sometimes it’s ridiculous how much we care about our guests.”
The caring, coupled with high-quality ingredients and a well-trained staff, works - even in tough times.
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“We know that the economy has changed the way people are spending,” says Bowman, a nine-year veteran with the company. “We have guests who have cut back on dinner, yet they’re coming instead for breakfast or lunch. And we’ve also seen an increase in the number of people who are coming and eating family style.”
Family-style eating is not just allowed at Longhi’s, it’s actively encouraged.
“It’s the way the Longhis eat,” says Charlie. “It’s how we eat at home - we’ve always shared everything - and in the restaurant our portions are so large that it makes sense to order a couple of things and share them at the table.”
Dishes like Filet Longhi ($38), a 10-ounce filet served with sautéed red and yellow peppers and fresh basil butter sauce, and Rib Eye Steak ($38), a 16-ounce Niman Ranch rib eye finished with a balsamic reduction) are cut pupu style, making sharing simple - just add a vegetable dish and a pasta or two and pass the share plates.“It’s a great way to eat,” says Charlie.
At breakfast, Longhi’s offers one of the most exciting menus in the city. Fresh berries, freshly baked breads and gorgeous dishes like Crab Cake Benedict ($17.50), Lobster Benedict ($21) and Longhi’s Famous Crispy Waffle ($8.50) smothered in Grade A maple syrup, are part of a menu that offers the best start to the day.
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At lunch, there are dozens of dishes that feature light, fresh fare including an irresistible Caprese Salad ($16.50) with Island-grown basil, fresh Italian buffalo mozzarella and Kamuela tomatoes drizzled with excellent extra-virgin olive oil.
There’s a long list of classic American-style sandwiches, along with a prime beef hamburger ($11), steak sandwich ($20) and a classic New York-style Reuben ($13). The beef is Niman Ranch prime certified Angus beef farmed without antibiotics or hormones.
For those looking for pasta, there’s a wide range of dishes that include a perfectly simple Lemon Zucchini ($15) and a rich, intensely flavored, classic Bolognese ($14).
And while the menu might be vast - there are more than 40 items for dinner alone - there’s a simplicity to most of the dishes that allows ingredients to shine.
“It’s all about good ingredients,” says Bowman. “On Parmigiano Reggiano alone, we spend $250,000 a year importing the wheels of cheese from Italy.”
Add to that imported olive oil, cured meats and the highest-quality steak and fish, and you soon see that the Longhis are serious about their food - and wine.
“We’ve had a world-class wine list for a long time,” says Charlie, “It’s another thing that people don’t know about us.”
But despite the accolades, the essence of Longhi’s is family - and feeling good about what you eat, while you eat.
“This is such a great place to hang out,” says Charlie, looking across the restaurant to the ocean. “With the view, the breeze and the food, it just feels good up here.”
Longhi’s Restaurant Ala Moana Center 947-9899 www.longhis.com
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A new Korean buffet out Mililani way
Friday - August 15, 2008
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When Peter Baik opened his first Korean restaurant (Yakiniku Mikawon) in Honolulu almost five years ago, he quickly gained a reputation for serving high quality ingredients - and some say the best kimchi in town. Those same ingredients - along with the recipe for his wife’s kimchi - have moved to Mililani, where local residents now have an all-you-caneat Korean barbecue on their doorstep.
“I’d always wanted to do a barbecue buffet with Korean food,” says Baik,“and when this location came up, I thought it would be perfect.”
Previously Sizzler Restaurant and most recently Makino Chaya, the large space on Meheula Parkway seats 160 people and has lanai seating for another 60 or so.
“There’s room here to accommodate parties and large groups,” says Baik, “and a lot of our customers seem happy that we’ve moved to the area.”
Certainly the space is impressive - with four areas of buffet there’s room enough for the tempura stations, meat displays and other entrees, sides, salads and desserts, and there’s room to walk around the buffet line without feeling cramped. Gas grills have been installed at each table, and parties of six, eight and more can easily eat together.
“What we’re trying to do is to bring the same quality of Korean food that we were known for in Honolulu to this location, and offer it at a great price,” says Baik. “We have the same quality of food. We’re still not using any MSG on the meats, and we’re able to keep the same high standards.”
Jun lovers will appreciate the wide range of fried dishes on offer at both lunch and dinner. “Lots of meat jun, fish, zucchini and tofu here,” says Baik of the lightly fried, golden tempura. And at the same station, help yourself to noodles, fried rice and other tofu and veggie side dishes.
“The freshness of the meat is assured because we go through such huge quantities every day,” adds Baik. “So our food rotates quickly and nothing sits for long.”
If you were a fan of Baik’s boneless short ribs, chicken bulgogi, Jumulluk, galbi or spicy pork from before, you’ll be pleased to see them all here - in larger amounts.
“We serve our meat specialties,” he says, “and when our suppliers have them, we have fresh oysters along with shrimp and clams, too.”
There are almost too many dishes to mention on the daily lunch and dinner buffet, but you can pretty much expect a host of side dishes that include sushi rolls, poke, sashimi, fried anchovies, bean sprouts, fern, daikon, seaweed, dried and spicy squid, along with a selection of hot foods that include fried rice, white rice, kimchi rice, steamed galbi, red potatoes, long rice, fried eggplant, chicken wings, radish soup and seaweed soup. “We rotate and change items as they are available,” says Baik.
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There’s a special running through August where lunch is just $12.95 and dinner $19.95 - a value that’s hard to beat when you consider soft drinks, juices, coffee, tea and ice cream are all included.
And while portion sizes are obviously as big as you need them to be, it’s still the kimchi that has aficionados coming back again and again.
“My wife makes the kimchi,” says Baik,“and it’s become so popular that we sell it at the restaurant for people to take home.”
The tasty kimchi is made using whole cabbages - not just chopped, pickled leaves - and the priciest ingredients.
“Part of the reason for the high quality of the kimchi is that my wife buys the best ingredients - we use the most expensive red pepper, for example - and she’s also meticulous about keeping the recipe exactly the same every day.”
Baik was born and raised in Seoul, and grew up in the food business. His parents own grocery stores on the Mainland that offer lots of cooked Korean foods.
“I’ve been around food all my life,” he says. “When I came to Hawaii, I thought that there would be a place for a good-quality Korean restaurant. This is authentic and as traditional as you’ll find. It’s the kind of food that we like to eat ourselves.”
Fans of Baik’s food include golfer Michelle Wie, whose recommendations are so high that several LPGA golfers have stopped by for dinner.
“Michelle likes our kimchi stew,” says Baik,“and we’re always happy to make it for anyone who asks.”
Palace Buffet Korean barbecue buffet 623-3000 94-780 Meheula Pkwy. Mililani, Hi 96789
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It’s always fresh at Seafood Village
Friday - August 08, 2008
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Jo McGarry is on vacation; This story is written by Don Chapman.
It’s almost an oxymoron: a Waikiki restaurant with a largely local clientele. But that’s Seafood Village, which this year celebrates 15 years at the Hyatt Regency Waikiki. What’s the secret?
It starts with the freshest local seafood that includes Kahuku shrimp and produce that includes Nalo Greens and veggies.
“Everything is fresh, and all of our sauces made here,“says general manager Gary Chan.
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Then there’s excellent service from a staff led by the cordial GM, plus excellent value for your dollar. A good example of that is the Wok-fried
Opakapaka,two battered filets with either black bean or chili sauce ($18.95). All dishes are served family style.
Oh, and there’s no MSG.
It also helps that they work to stay on top. Chan and Albert Cloutier, director of operations for Seafood Village and sister restaurant Atlantis Seafood and Steak, recently sent Chef Qio Chen, the Seafood Village chef since “Day One,“to Hong Kong for two weeks in search of new recipes. One of the recipes he brought back has become an instant hit, Dynasty Shrimp. It’s shrimp that melts in the mouth, in a tangy garlic sauce,served with choi sum ($18.95).
“We’re the only place in Hawaii that has this dish,” says Chan.
He says that Seafood Village,with its two private dinning rooms featuring beautiful etched glass, is popular with kama’aina, whether for a lunch of dim sum or for dinner, as well as anniversaries, birthdays and graduation celebrations. Overall, the restaurant seats 220, with up to 70 in a private room.
“People like that we serve traditional Chinese cuisine, but with an Island flavor,” Chan says.
“But of course it helps that we’re on Kalakaua Avenue, on the ground floor (ewa tower of the Hyatt).”
In addition to the Dynasty Shrimp (another instant favorite if you like garlic),we also sampled the classic glazed Honey Walnut Shrimp ($19.95). It’s one of the best sellers on the menu,says Chan: “Kids love it.”
We also sampled another new menu item, Clams Lemongrass ($19.95), meaty clams in a broth of lemongrass,chilis,Thai basil and garlic. Fantastic.
These we enjoyed with shrimp fried rice - almost a meal in itself.
And while you don’t go to a Chinese restaurant for a great wine list, the list here is good, offering both American wines and Japanese and Chinese rice wines.
All in all, we left thinking, “No wonder they’ve been here for 15 years - they do everything right.”
Seafood Village Hyatt Regency Waikiki
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Fresh, natural plate lunches on Bishop Street
Friday - August 01, 2008
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The question of the day at Umeke Market’s new downtown store doesn’t vary too much.
“Do you have white rice?” ask customers new to the health food store and its colorful array of foods that do include musubi, bentos, meatloaf, beef curry and kalua turkey and cabbage, but don’t include a steaming tray of starchy white rice.
“You can tell that certain customers are a little skeptical,” says Umeke Market co-owner Michelle Yamaguchi, laughing, “We see people coming in and looking at our healthy plate lunch section and they’re thinking, ‘Hey, where’s the rice?’ “
But while the concept might be a little different for some, others are embracing the healthful, tasty options with open arms.
“Oh, we have people who are so happy that we’ve opened in this location that they’re here every day,” says Michelle of the enthusiastic response from customers.
Umeke Market opened its first store at Kahala in 2003 with a mission to bring a balance of natural foods, fresh ingredients and health supplements to local people at an affordable price.
“We always wanted to be able to offer people alternatives,” says Michelle, who along with husband and co-owner Daryl has created a niche market for people comfortable with the idea of changing how they eat, even if it’s just a little at a time.
“If people can just take small steps to change the way they eat, then that’s better than nothing,” Michelle says, “and at Umeke we want to offer people a way to do that.”
Downtown Umeke Market opened in late June and is located on Bishop Street in the middle of bustling business center of town.
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The store begins serving breakfast at 7 a.m. with a wide range of hot and cold options. A Breakfast Sandwich ($4.50) has chopped spinach, onion, tomato, Cheddar cheese and egg on an English muffin. There’s a Breakfast Burrito ($6.50) stuffed
A selection of omelettes start at $6.50, or you can try the Japanese Style breakfast ($8.75) with grilled organic salmon belly, organic brown rice with furikake and a cup of miso soup.
For those who prefer their breakfast in a bowl, then the Acai Bowl with Strawberries ($5.95), a blend of Sambazon Acai (the famed antioxidant Brazilian super fruit), soy milk, strawberries and granola topped with sliced banana should get the day off to a great start.
But it’s the newest addition to the Umeke store that has Michelle most enthused.
“The healthy plate lunch section works efficiently because part of the line is a mirror image of the other, and that eliminates a long wait and also limits the choices people have to make.”
There are weekly soups, including Umeke’s signature detox soup, and a rotating menu that features dishes like black bean butternut squash stew, curry lentil dahl, turkey chili, chicken adobo and ginger beef stew. Burgers and sandwiches are abundant.
Made with free range and wild game meat, Umeke’s made-to-order burgers include buffalo, ostrich, venison and elk burgers. The burgers come on a whole-wheat bun with lettuce, tomato, onion and sprouts.
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“To us, it’s all about the taste and about providing people with a lot of different dishes all the time,” says Michelle, who spends much of her time creating new recipes for the store.
“With our meals-to-go and our prepared side dishes, we’re trying to make it easier for parents to put together healthy meals at least once or twice a week.”
Expect to see a dinner-to-go section at the market soon.
“People are anxious for it and are asking us every day when we’ll have dinner.” Michelle says. “So that’s the next step.”
For now, downtown diners can familiarize themselves with the unusual and inspiring sight of fresh, local and organic foods right in the middle of the city.
With everything from fresh-fruit smoothies, juices made from beets, cucumbers, carrots and kale, and a range of bottled waters and sodas that include the much-talked-about, all-natural Blue Sky Soda, the food’s so good that I’ll bet you don’t even notice there’s no white rice.
Umeke Market Downtown
1001 Bishop St.
Suite 110
552-7377
Umeke Market Kahala
4400 Kalanianaole Hwy.
739-2990
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Beachside dining at its best
Friday - July 25, 2008
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It’s probably no longer relevant to refer to Ocean House and its incredible beachside location as one of Honolulu’s hidden secrets. Open for more than six years, there are now plenty of savvy kamaaina familiar with both the view and the food. But still ... oh, once a night or so, someone will walk into the restaurant and ask general manager David Nagaishi how long it’s been there.
“It happens all the time,” says Nagaishi, a veteran of the dining scene in Honolulu.“Guests take a look at the room, the beach, the view and they can’t believe they haven’t been here before.”
One thing’s for sure, once you step inside Ocean House you’re unlikely to forget your first impression.
Entrees begin at $19 and,as you’d expect from a spot right on the water,there’s a fine selection of fresh fish including mahimahi, hapu’upu’u (Hawaiian sea bass) and opah. Pupu start at $9 and nobody minds if you share - in fact, the menu helpfully states that portions (including spare ribs, ahi tartar and a tasty escargot and brie bake) are large enough for two or more. One of the most popular entrees comes in the form of Coconut Lobster Skewers ($13). Sounds unusual, but whoever came up with the idea of putting lobster on a stick and serving it with a sweet chili and lime sauce hit on something that’s become a firm favorite.
The Ocean House menu offers extraordinarily good value, and considering the location, one could argue the best value in all of Waikiki. Seared, peppered sea scallops served over mushrooms with a soy-sake butter sauce are $10, and a good-sized portion of ahi sashimi is $12. There’s an enthusiastic young staff, thriving under the mentorship of Nagaishi.
“I love it here,“says manager Lilia Wilson with a smile. “The view is incredible and, when local people come here, they are really happy with the prices and the food.”
She offers her favorite dishes to anyone looking for a dining tip.
“I always recommend the Parmesan-Crusted Opah Picatta ($26),” she says. “It’s grilled Hawaiian moonfish with our caper, wine and lemon-butter sauce, and the flavors all just blend beautifully.”
But it’s at sunset when Ocean House comes into its own. There are sunset views as nice along the coast of Waikiki, but there is none better.
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“Guests just love the view,” says Wilson.“They’re in awe when they come in for the first time and see the beach and the ocean.“But while the sunset and the restaurant’s décor might be impressive, it’s the Hawaiian salted, slow-roasted prime rib, among other dishes, that has people coming back for more. “It’s the best in Honolulu,” says Nagaishi with a smile. He might just be right. For $28 you get a hearty portion of incredibly tender beef that’s been slow-roasted in the restaurant’s electric imu.
“Chef roasts the meat for between 10 and 12 hours, depending on the size,“says Nagaishi.“He’s an expert at getting the meat exactly right and that’s something that can’t be done in a regular oven.” The ultra-slow roasting process results in remarkably tender beef that’s served in several ways: The Ocean House Cut ($27) is a large portion of tender beef; there’s a Lite Cut ($23) for those with a smaller appetite; the Alii Cut ($33) is a huge portion cut to satisfy larger appetites; Pulehu Prime Rib ($28) is seasoned with salt,garlic and fresh herbs; and a Prime Rib New Orleans ($28), where the meat is flash-grilled with a dry Cajun spice mix.
“There’s a prime rib for everyone,” says Nagaishi.
Another surprise at Ocean House is the wine list, where pricing remains in keeping with the restaurant’s promise to offer value.
“People are often very surprised at the quality of wines we offer here,“says Nagaishi.“But our commitment has always been to offer great food and a great experience at a price that most people can afford.
“Parties, wedding receptions, showers and graduations are all becoming part of the Ocean House experience. Our dining room works so well for these kind of parties, and with the completely open façade looking out to the beach, no one ever gets bored with the view.”
Wilson agrees, and hears comments about the view and the food all evening long. “My favorite time of day is just around sunset when the colors in the sky are amazing and the restaurant is so beautiful,” she says. “It’s always really special when local people are here for the first time and they experience that. It makes working here special.”
The Ocean House Restaurant Beachfront in the Outrigger Reef Hotel
2169 Kalia Road Waikiki 923-2277
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The scoop on summer wine dinners
Friday - July 18, 2008
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Henry James said he believed the words “summer afternoon” to be the two most beautiful in our language. While I agree with the leisurely images they conjure, personally, I love the two words “summer wines.” I picture glasses half-filled with crisp, pale yellow Rieslings; sunny, unoaked Chardonnays; effervescent Prosecco and perfectly pink rose wines - all enjoyed in the company of friends and good food.
Winter brings its own robust pairings but, for now, here’s the scoop on some of the best summer wine dinners.
d.k’s Steak House Van Williamson Wine Dinner
The last time I talked with winemaker Van Williamson he was standing at the bar at Vino, Restaurant Row, enjoying a glass of his own incredible Zinfandel. He was talking about some of his favorite people, the farmers and growers from whom he sources his grapes. “They are ordinary farmers, the salt-of-the-earth kind of people,” he says. “We source these amazing grapes from them and then I just take care of them.” It’s a bit of an understatement, but it’s what you’d expect from this acclaimed winemaker more in tune with his surroundings than his near-cult status in the industry. By using more than 30 different vineyards, Williamson has the pick of some of the most outstanding grapes in the country. Little wonder, then, that Edmeades Zinfandels are some of the biggest, boldest and best in the world.
“Without a doubt, Van Williamson is producing some of the most tasty, provocative, interesting and unique Old Vine Zinfandel out of California today,” says master sommelier Chuck Furuya. “No one does it better.”
The four-course menu at d.k’s Steak House in Waikiki will feature dishes prepared by executive chef Jason Miyasaki and include Spiced Baby Back Ribs with 2006 Edmeades “Shamrock Vineyard” Zinfandel and Zinfandel-Braised Kobe Short Ribs paired with 2006 Edmeades Zinfandel “Ciapusci Vineyard.”
d.k Steak House Edmeades Wine Dinner
$85 per person
Served from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m.
Friday July 25 931-6280 for reservations
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There’s a chance to catch the winemaker at Vino July 26 for a tasting of five “wild and wooly” zins, each richer and with more character than the one before.
Keep in mind that this tasting will sell out, so book now to avoid colossal disappointment!
Vino Van Williamson Edmeades Tasting
Saturday, July 26 at 5:30 p.m.
$39 per person
Vino Restaurant and Wine Bar
Restaurant Row
Elua Summer Wine Series
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Since opening Elua Restaurant and Wine Bar just over a year ago, chefs Donato Loperfido and Philippe Padovani, along with owner Keith Kiuchi, have pursued their individual passions, resulting in an inspired combination of food, wine and extraordinary pairings of the two. Donato imports wine through his company Flavors of Italy and works closely with small, family-owned vineyards. As a result, some of the Elua wine dinners this summer offer a spectacular opportunity to sample the work of small, independent winemakers and their highly allocated wines.
“Donato likes to work with small, family-run wineries,” says Kiuchi, “and it suits what we’re doing here at the restaurant perfectly. We’re able to source great wines, and then Philippe and Donato pretty much take turns at pairing them.” The wine dinners at Elua are appealing because the restaurant serves its regular menu on wine dinner nights, with a no-pressure policy on guests. “The wine pairing menu is available,” says Keith, “but guests are free to order from the regular menu if they’d rather.”
Either way, it’s a fun way to sample some extraordinary food and wine. If you’re a foodie, try to catch at least one of these dinners before the summer is over. Upcoming dinners include a menu created by Chef Padovani and paired with Joseph Drouhin St. Veran Chardonnay, Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Red Burgundy and a Volnay from Bouchard. Cost of the dinner is $75 for four courses, including three 2-ounce glasses of wine. An August wine dinner at Elua visits the region of Piemonte, the acclaimed region in northwest Italy. This time, Donato does the food, pairing dishes with Dolcetto and Barbera from Cascina Luisin.
Elua Restaurant & Wine Bar
1341 Kapiolani Blvd.
955-Elua
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Brasserie Du Vin Wine Dinners.
There’s nowhere that makes me want to grab a bottle of wine to share with a couple of good friends more than the courtyard at Brasserie Du Vin. With sunlight shining across the brick walls and a menu that’s light enough to eat mid-morning or late at night, it’s the quintessential summer sipping spot. Weekly wine dinners are held on Mondays, and the restaurant’s beverage manager/sommelier, Colin Darrell, provides enthusiasm and knowledge enough to make the evenings interesting and fun. “We keep the dinners small; limit them to 14 people,” says Colin of the regularly sold-out pairings. The Du Vin tastings are perfect for those who enjoy meeting new people as part of their wine experience - and for those who enjoy a more casual ambience when they drink. Du Vin’s approach is unpretentious, and the wines are meant to be seriously enjoyed with food paired by chef Scott Nelson.
Brasserie Du Vin
1115 Bethel St. Honolulu
545-1115
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The secret to authentic Korean cuisine
Friday - July 11, 2008
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I am no expert on Korean food, and I’m the first person to admit it. There wasn’t a lot of bulgogi and mandoo being served in Scotland when I was growing up, although I dare say a bowl of spicy kim chi stew would have been a treat on a freezing winter’s night.
I do, however notice good food, and I’m fairly quick to recognize when a restaurant owner or chef has a passion for what he or she does. The first time I went to Migawon (under this ownership) for lunch, I was impressed immediately by the use of charcoal in the yakiniku grills, the diversity of the menu and the layers of spice in the sauces. I asked the owner, Min Suk Ahn, to explain some of the dishes and her cooking methods but, to be honest, we didn’t get very far. Her Korean accent and my Scottish one weren’t clicking, and it was obvious that she wasn’t giving out any secrets. So I called my New York-born-and-raised Korean friend Anne and invited her to lunch. On our second trip to Migawon, my suspicions were confirmed: The food is excellent and, yes, there are secrets that the kitchen is not revealing - whether you’re fluent in Korean or not.
Min Suk Ahn grew up around good food. Her parents owned a casual restaurant in Korea and served homemade rice, mandoo, soups and other versions of Korean comfort food. When she moved to Hawaii, she worked in local Korean restaurants and finally decided to open her own place, believing that family recipes, traditional sauces and unique presentations would be the way to attract a loyal customer base.
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“The food here is very authentic,” said Anne, who was raised on her Korean mother’s cooking. “My parents came here the last time they visited and they loved it.”
Neng myun is one of the many specialties. The noodles in this traditional Korean soup are made fresh daily from sweet potato. Served in stainless steel bowls and topped with a boiled egg, the thin, glassy noodles are refreshing and provide an interesting contrast to the chilled soup base, spicy chili sauce and hot beef broth that comes in a mug on the side. Other specialties include pot stews of beef and octopus, seafood or bulgogi; grilled croaker, snapper or mackerel; and a variety of jun dishes that include oyster jun, nok doo jun and fish jun.
Charcoal is used to fire up the restaurant’s yakiniku grills, and there’s little doubt that it adds to the uniqueness of the restaurant.
“We like the way the charcoal adds a lot of flavor to the food,” says Min Suk, “and our customers come for that. It’s one of the things that we offer that no one else does in Hawaii.” The restaurant has state-of-the-art filters installed to ensure a smoke-free environment for diners.
Other popular dishes on the Migawon menu include bulgogi (beef rib eye marinated in traditional soy sauce) and pork bulgogi (pork meat marinated in a hot and spicy sauce) along with stone pot rice, which crisps and browns as it sits in its heated stone container.
Migawon is open 24 hours, and the long hours ensure a diverse customer base. “We have a lot of people who come early morning time when they’ve finished their work,” says Min Suk.
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The roadwork on Kapiolani Boulevard that has been steadily moving down the main street this past year or more is now taking place directly outside Migawon, making getting there a little more of a challenge than usual. There is however, ample parking at the back of the restaurant (off Kapiolani Boulevard) that is unaffected by construction.
Look for monthly specials that offer signature dishes (like kalbi soup or homemade pancakes) at a reduced price; this month there’s kalbi and neng myun for just $11.95, or $7.95 for the neng myun alone.
Migawon Korean Restaurant
1726 Kapiolani Blvd.
947-5454
Annual Korean Festival.
This weekend you can sample some of Migawon’s “secret” recipe dishes and enjoy a host of other Korean treats at the seventh annual Korean Festival at Kapiolani Park. The festival will include a variety of performances, including taekwando, tea ceremonies and dance along with food booths.
Seventh annual Korean Festival
Saturday, July 12
10 a.m.-9 p.m.
Kapiolani Park and Bandstand.
Admission is free and open to the general public.
Scrip available for purchase.
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Fourth of July dining with a fireworks view
Friday - July 04, 2008
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Whether you’re fine dining this Friday night or fueling up the hibachi for a barbecue with friends, no Fourth of July celebration is complete without a great view of the fireworks. Here’s our guide to restaurants with some of the city’s best views:
Longhi’s Restaurant
At Longhi’s Restaurant, there’s a view across Ala Moana Beach Park as well as a special five-course Fourth of July menu. The $85-per-person menu includes chilled crab claws, Napoleon Longhi (roasted eggplant, vine-ripened tomatoes, roasted red peppers, chevre and fresh basil drizzled with house made vinaigrette), lobster cannelloni and a choice of either opakapaka, chicken Marsala, shrimp Longhi or filet mignon with béarnaise. Dessert is included. The restaurant will be open for dinner from 4 p.m. Reservations for the set menu will be taken from 7 p.m. Fresh Maine lobster (3.25 pounds and 1.25 pounds) is on the a la carte menu at market price.
Longhi’s Restaurant.
1450 Ala Moana Blvd.
947-9899
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Shore Bird Restaurant
With a gold coast view at a fraction of the cost of fancier restaurants, Shore Bird offers the best in casual dining.
Grill your own steaks, chicken or fish on the restaurant’s famous giant grill and choose from a menu that includes choice top sir-loin ($18.95), center cut pork chops ($18.95) and fresh, locally caught fish ($21.95). Dinner entrees include an all-you-can-eat salad bar. There’s free validated parking at Outrigger Reef with validation from Shore Bird or sister restaurant Ocean House (boasting an equally impressive beach-front location), and there’s a 50 percent off the entire food check promotion running, too. Do make reservations, though. This weekend promises to be one of Shore Bird’s busiest.
Shore Bird Restaurant and Beach Bar
Beachfront in the Outrigger Reef Hotel
2169 Kalia Road, Waikiki 922-2887
Aaron’s
Hard to find a more central vantage point for fireworks viewing than Aaron’s atop the Ala Moana Hotel. Along with an unrivaled view of the city, there’s an exciting menu of beautifully prepared food including fresh fish, steaks and lobster. Lots of Island produce and an award-winning wine list contribute to the dining experience. But for owner Aaron Placourakis, getting the food and the staff right is just part of his quest to run a perfect restaurant. “There are a lot of places known for one or two great things,” he says. “What we try to do is to hit on everything.” Location, great food, location, great wine ... oh, and did we say location?
Aaron’s
Ala Moana Hotel
410 Atkinson Drive
Honolulu
955-4466
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Sarento’s
At Sarento’s atop The Ilikai, there’s great food, an excellent wine list and stunning views. With an emphasis on simple Italian dishes with a Mediterranean flair, the chefs at Sarento’s produce pasta, fish and meat dishes that combine rustic flavors with great presentations. Spaghettini with filet mignon meatballs in a pomodoro sauce, pan-roasted opakapaka, kiawe wood-smoked pork chop and rack of lamb are just a few of the restaurant’s signature dishes. The award-winning wine list includes Super Tuscans and deep, mellow Cabernets along with fruit-forward, ruby Chianti Classicos that go incredibly well with the richer pasta dishes.
Sarento’s
Top of The “I”
1777 Ala Moana Blvd.
Honolulu
955-5559
Ocean House
Ocean House has the unusual Waikiki combination of beach-front location and reasonable prices. “We wanted to make Ocean House accessible to local people,” says general manager David Nagaishi. There are some beautiful decorating accents in the restaurant and a charming waiting area fashioned as a library; the dining room beach view is visible from almost every table thanks to a two-tier seating design. Entrees begin at $19 and, as you’d expect from a spot right on the water, there’s a fine selection of fresh fish.
Ocean House
Outrigger Reef on The Beach
2169 Kalia Ave.
923-2277
Hong Kong Harbor View
For fireworks and some fiery Chinese food, Hong Kong Harbor View is a must. On the waterfront at Aloha Tower, the second floor restaurant has great views and excellent food. Signature dishes include a sizzling-hot and spicy tenderloin steak, fried bacon with prawn scallop rolls and coconut-crusted live Dungeness crab.
Hong Kong Harbor View Seafood Restaurant
1 Aloha Tower Drive
Honolulu
566-9989
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Simple, satisfying, savory soup
Friday - June 27, 2008
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It’s the ultimate recession-proof dish. Sophisticated, stylish, inexpensive and often stunningly simple, soup can be made from almost anything and eaten at every meal. All cultures have a version, which means in Hawaii you’re as likely to find a cooling soup for summer as you are a hearty winter broth.
Here’s an (abbreviated) look at some of the Island’s best bowls.
KOREAN
Soondubu
So Gong Dong
Soondubu is the signature dish of So Gong Dong, the Korean restaurant located on the second floor of McCully Shopping Center. Served in a clay pot, the tofu soup has a beef broth and is packed with melting tofu and ground beef. The heat level can vary depending on your preference, so ask for it spicy if you need some heat. More than 70 percent of customers who frequent the restaurant go for the soup, according to owner Steve Lee. “I always tell people they should try the soondubu first if they want to see the quality of my food. Once they try it, they’re hooked.” Variations on the theme include beef, shrimp, sausage, kim chee, beef intestines and a seafood combination with clams. There’s even a Spam soondubu, but most people go for the tofu beef/pork combo.
So Gong Dong
McCully Shopping Center
946-8206
EUROPEAN
Maui Onion Soup
Beachhouse at the Moana Surfrider
I used to love the French onion soup at a mom-and-pop restaurant in Mapunapuna that is sadly no longer with us (not least for its incredibly good value), but it’s hard to beat Rodney Uyehara’s classic version at Beachhouse. He first served it up when he was executive chef at The Bistro at Executive Center, and I was happy to see that the perfect dish followed him to the menu at Beachhouse. It’s not the dish you might first think of on a sultry evening as you sip a mai tai in the Beachhouse dining room and gaze across the ocean, but one spoonful and I promise you’ll be hooked. Great stock, lots of onions and tons of melted Gruyere (three cheeses actually make up the heavy,“lacy"topping) make this one of my all-time favorites.
Beachhouse at the Moana Surfrider
2365 Kalakaua Ave.
923-2861
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THAI
Seafood Soup
Keo’s Thai Cuisine
One of the reasons I enjoy Keo’s food so much (and particularly simple dishes like soup) is that the vegetables and herbs are grown by the restaurant’s owner, Keo Sananikone, on his North Shore farm.“It’s one way we ensure that no pesticides are used on our herbs or fruits,” says Keo, “and also get all the ingredients we need.” Twice a week he heads into Honolulu with a truckload of fresh flowers and produce that may include mint, kaffir lime leaves, limes and lemons, jackfruit, mango and sweet basil. The most popular soup is Tom Yum (listed on the menu as Spicy Lemon Grass Soup) and comes in variations that include seafood, pork and chicken.
Keo’s Thai Cuisine Waikiki
2028 Kuhio Ave.
951-9355
CHINESE
Duck Noodle Soup
Wah Kung Restaurant
The first time I had this soup was about seven years ago. Rain was pelting against the windows of the Mapunapuna Wah Kung (the old location) and as I sat alone having lunch and enjoying the wonderful flavors of star anise, fresh noodles and fatty duck meat in glistening broth, I remember thinking that few things hit the spot or warm more readily than a really good bowl of noodle soup. It’s one of the most popular soups on the menu at this longtime favorite Chinese restaurant - and still one of my all-time favorite soups.
Wah Kung Seafood Restaurant
1151 Mapunapuna St.
(former 99 Ranch, mauka side) 833-0880
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INTERNATIONAL
Oxtail Soup
Aiea Bowl
At the risk of starting something of a small war, I am merely suggesting Aiea Bowl as an example of excellent oxtail soup. To proclaim one oxtail soup better than another is more serious, I know, than suggesting one brand of mayonnaise over another.
This one’s good, though. With chunky oxtail, a hearty broth and a nice presentation, the soup, served within Aiea Bowl’s restaurant, The Alley, already has a huge fan base.
The Alley at Aiea Bowl
99-115 Aiea Heights Drive, # 310
Aiea
486-3499
AMERICAN REGIONAL
New England Clam Chowder
Panya Bistro
For a creamy, rich, golden yellow soup that seems lighter in calories than it really must be, one of my favorites is the New England clam chowder at Panya Bistro. With a hint of seafood stock and a dainty serving of clams, this is a perfect bowl on days you need a quick, filling lunch to leave you ready to take on the afternoon. Served with Panya’s homemade crusty baguettes, it’s a signature on its varied menu.
Panya Bakery, Bistro & Bar
Ala Moana Center, second floor
946-6388
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JAPANESE
Nihon Noodle Trio
Specialized broths dominate the menu at Nihon Noodles on South King Street, where owner Mayumi Kaneshiro serves a variety of noodle dishes found in various regions of Japan. From the south of Japan come Hakata noodles, from the North, the Tokyo noodle, and from the central part of the country, Sapporo. You can try all three together in the popular Nihon Noodle Trio where Hakata (thin noodles with a white, milky tonkotsu broth), Tokyo (medium noodle with shoyu broth) and Sapporo (thick noodles in a miso broth) are served together.
Nihon Noodles
2065 S. King St.
944-6622
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Wandering chef returns with a new menu
Friday - June 20, 2008
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There’s a wave of change sweeping through Indigo Restaurant. I stopped by last week to chat with owner Glenn Chu, and was instantly reminded of the bond I feel with this fascinating place. Set in the heart of Chinatown, I first discovered Indigo in its previous incarnation as a piano bar. Going there with friends while on vacation one evening, I decided to move to Hawaii to live. When Indigo opened in the same space in 1994, I was just beginning my personal journey of discovery through food and wine, fascinated by the chefs and farmers and fishermen I was starting to meet.
One day, delivering a beer newsletter around the islands, I stopped at a grocery store in Haleiwa. As I was dropping off the papers, the owner came out from the back of the store wearing a butcher’s apron stained with blood and invited me to lunch at “this great new restaurant, Indigo.“The “butcher” was Lyle Fujioka and I still remember where we sat, what we talked about and how the beginnings of my wine and food magazine, Gusto, began to form. Fast-forward 14 years and Indigo is getting a face-lift. Coincidentally, wine guru Fujioka is a large part of the new look.
“We’re introducing a wine carafe program, and Lyle will be here to help customers with the wines,“says Chu. “We feel that food is about gathering together and being social - not just about eating - and we want people who are passionate about food and wine around us.”
In a somewhat serendipitous turn, chef David Cruz returns to the kitchen. David was part of the original Indigo team, leaving the Islands to further his culinary talents and hone his skills in Malaysia and beyond.
“I’m happy to be back,” he says. “Glenn and I always stayed in touch, and this feels like the completion of a circle.”
But don’t worry that your favorite dim sum might disappear, (Chu creates the most gorgeous chicken shiitake pot stickers,) or those fabulous crab cakes with chipotle aioli may be removed, or that unique dishes like Buddha’s Feast and Tofu might never be seen again. Cruz’s mission is to complement rather than change the Asian-influenced menu that has become Indigo’s culinary signature.
“Glenn does a lot of complex dishes with multiple sauces,” says Cruz. “Our aim is to keep all the flavor, but essentially have less on the plate.We’re going to strip away some of the dishes, keep the core elements and find new concentrations of flavors.”
Expect to hear the occasional concentration of acoustic guitars and harmonious voices, too. David is part of the musical Cruz family.“Yes, I called my brothers,” says David with a smile,“and Ernie and Guy have already committed. I ran into John the other night and he said ‘You need anything I’ll be there.‘“Rumor has it that the Cruz brothers will appear Tuesday June 24 when Chu and his staff officially welcome David as their chef.
“Music and food and wine all interweave”, says Cruz.“They’re all things that give people a lot of pleasure.”
When I think back to my lunch with Lyle on that sunny afternoon 14 years ago, it’s hard not to reflect on the incredible change in the Hawaii food and wine scene. As young chefs continue to rise, sustainability becomes part of our everyday conversation and old friends return to newly designed spaces, Indigo patrons should get ready for the ride.
Indigo Restaurant 1121 Nu’uanu Ave. 521 2900
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Cakes, pastries and so much more
Friday - June 13, 2008
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You’d think that after 11 years in business, Panya owners Annie and Alice Yeung might be running short on new ideas for cakes and pastries. One look at their new hamburger cake or a quick bite of a sweetly seductive guava mousse proves that the sisters are as creative as ever.
“We can’t really believe it’s been 11 years,” says Annie.“It’s gone fast and we’ve learned a lot, but we’re still always looking for new techniques and new ideas.” As you read this, Alice is in Hong Kong trying new products and gathering goodies to bring back to the bakery headquarters on Queen Street. This weekend you’ll find a golfer’s cake appropriate for dads with a sweet tooth, along with a number of new gourmet cakes created by Panya bakers.
“There’s a taste and impression that customers expect from Panya,” says Annie. “Our customers expect certain things from our bakery.” Those certain things include cakes as light as air, creamy fillings, soft, sugary doughnuts, fresh breads, sandwiches and a range of gourmet cakes. Latest offerings include a gorgeous guava mousse that’s tart on the initial bite and sweet, smooth and creamy on the palate, and a decadent Black Forest mousse based on the famous German cake but filled with chocolate mousse instead of sponge cake (they’ll do a traditional version if you prefer) and whole, dark, ripe cherries bursting with sweetness and flavor.
Every few months Alice and Annie introduce a new line of cakes, but signature items in the bakery stay the same.
“Everybody loves our Hokkaido bread,” says Annie.“We won’t ever change that recipe.”
Panya Express on Queen Street serves as the main bakery for all operations (there’s Panya Bistro at Ala Moana as well as a busy catering division). Open Monday through Friday for breakfast, and for lunch from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., Panya Express has a small dining area, a full bakery selection and a lunch menu that includes salads, soups and panini. With more than 1,000 baked items a day coming out of the ovens here, the corner of Cooke and Queen streets may be one of the sweetest-smelling spots in town.
“We bake here from early in the morning,” says Annie. “About 10 times a day there’s someone rushing freshly baked goods over to the Ala Moana store.”
And while the more than 80 bakery items and dozen desserts that include strawberry shortcake, tiramisu, bread pudding, crème brulee and caramel custards are reason enough to stop by, a diverse menu at the Ala Moana location often has customers returning to try new dishes.
“We offer so many different kinds of food on the menu at Panya Bistro,” says Annie, “that a lot of our customers are really surprised when they come for the first time.”
The small European-style restaurant (next to Longs at Ala Moana) is framed by a bakery counter in front and a stylish bar beyond. On the menu you’ll find homemade gyoza ($7.95), Vietnamese summer rolls ($5.95), Steamed Clams in White Wine ($11.95) or Sautéed Black Pepper Rib Eye ($15.95). At lunchtime, salads and sandwiches take the same cultural detours, and there is a wide variety of soups, noodles and desserts. This culinary cultural crossover works incredibly well, and never at any time do you feel that Panya has lost its identity. Dan Dan Noodles are as expertly executed here as Char Siu Ramen, Singapore Curry Fried Noodles or New England Clam Chowder - each dish leaving the kitchen with the same light, gentle touch the sisters apply in the bakery.
“It’s the Panya way,” says Annie.
Panya Bakery & Express 711 Queen St., Honolulu 597-8880 Panya Bakery, Bistro & Bar Ala Moana Center, second floor 946-6388
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A ‘new’ look, the same Pacific blue view
Friday - June 06, 2008
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There’s a curious thing that happens when you walk into the Shore Bird in Waikiki. It’s like your internal vacation button is hit and you feel yourself adopting an immediate and more leisurely pace. Blame it on the vast expanse of blue waves rhythmically hitting the shore, or the fact that you can breakfast at a fresh fruit buffet while sitting a few steps from the sand. This “new” Shore Bird is enough to blow away all of the preconceived notions you have about Waikiki, including the commonly heard “too expensive” (Shore Bird is offering some incredible deals to celebrate 29 years in Waikiki),“too difficult to park” (free valet parking at Outrigger Reef when you dine at Shore Bird), “too many tourists”(try the Aloha Friday Lunchtime show once a month or dinner Saturday night and you’ll be amazed at the savvy local dining crowd). And for further debunking of Waikiki dining myths? Just ask Shore Bird general manager Del Uyehara. He’s the guy who’s heard them all.
“I think that sometimes people forget what Hawaii is all about,“he says, sitting at a table looking out at an expanse of what he calls “the Pacific blue.”
“But when local people come here, take in the plantation house-style of the restaurant and look out right onto the beach, it brings them back.”
Renovations at Shore Bird took place about seven years ago,and the Outrigger Reef is completing the last of its $112-million refurbishment, but that’s news to lots of locals.
“People who haven’t been here in a long time don’t even know about our renovations,” says Del. “They still imagine Shore Bird the way it used to be.”
Today, dark-green paint, clean, white wood paneling, ceiling fans and touches of Hawaiiana on everything from lamps to fabrics give Shore Bird the appeal of an old plantation home - with a million-dollar view.“It’s like having a back yard on the beach,” says Del,“only there’s no need to worry about cleaning up.”
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Shore Bird opens at 7 a.m. daily, serving breakfast from an all-youcan-eat-buffet that’s heavy on fresh fruit and light on the budget. The regular buffet price, which includes breads, pastries, eggs, meats and freshly carved ham and roast turkey, is $12.95.“It’s hard to beat our price, our value and our view,” says Del.
Lunch offers a daily themed buffet (Friday there’s a Hawaiian spread complete with lomi salmon, poi and kalua pig), along with an a la carte menu of salads, burgers and sandwiches.
At dinner, especially around sunset,Shore Bird can get really busy, so it’s best to call ahead and make a reservation.Shore Bird’s “back yard on the beach” approach is apparent in the menu, which encourages guests to choose a cut of beef, pork, chicken or fish and then head for the giant grill to cook their own. There’s an all-you-can-eat salad bar as an accompaniment, and a range of appetizers that include some excellent ahi katsu and sashimi. If you’re not too confident of your own grilling capabilities,there’s a chef on hand to help out.
With a coveted Waikiki Beach view, Shore Bird makes Waikiki accessible to all of us. Sure you have to get up and grill your own dinner, but when you think that your bill may likely be less than the tip at other oceanfront restaurants, it’s hard to find anything not to love about an evening here.
“A lot of our regular customers like to come down for dinner at about 8:30,” says Del. “They miss the early evening rush and then stay for our free karaoke.” Food is served until 1 a.m., as are cocktails and after-dinner drinks.
Whether you’re looking for a beautiful place to take family or visiting friends for breakfast, an inexpensive lunch before a late afternoon swim, or one of the best value spots to catch the sunset, it’s hard to find anywhere to beat the value of Shore Bird this summer.
Shore Bird Restaurant And Beach Bar
Beachfront in the Outrigger Reef Hotel
2169 Kalia Road
Waikiki
922-2887
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Sarento’s: absolutely tops
Friday - May 30, 2008
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With all of the construction happening at the Ilikai - what is it about yellow tape that seems so forbidding? - maybe you too assumed that Sarento’s, the restaurant with arguably the best view in Waikiki, was shuttered too.
Nothing could be further from the truth.
Or further from a fantastic meal.
“I think people forget that the ‘Top of I’ is still here,” says Jarrod Jones, Sarento’s personable young general manager who started here as a busboy a decade ago.
To make sure that people don’t forget, and as a lure past some of that yellow tape, Sarento’s is offering a rather stunning dining deal: An early evening special (5:30 to 6:30 p.m. reservation) that offers more choices than you’d expect for just $30.
Appetizers include Caesar Alla Sarento’s, Chopped Salad Alla Gabriella (greens, Maui onions, cherry tomatoes, feta cheese, baby artichokes, tiger shrimp and avocado), Calamari with tomato-caper sauce and lemon aioli, New Zealand Mussels (cashew crusted with lemon, garlic and bruschetta), and Bruschetta Rustica (with grilled eggplant, diced Roma tomatoes, garlic and basil on a Tuscan bread with feta cheese).
Main course items include Linguine & Clams in a white wine sauce, Spaghetti and Filet Mignon Meatballs in a Pomodoro sauce,Penne Calabrese (housemade sausage, roasted eggplant, Roma tomatoes, broccolini and garlic in a white wine/feta sauce), Chicken Marsala with Shiitake mushrooms, Veal Carpricciosa (Milanese veal cutlet with mozzarella, Roma tomatoes, arugula and truffle vinaigrette), Tagliatele Ai Fungi (hand-cut pasta with mixed mushrooms and Prosciutto, and a catch of the day.
Dessert choices are Vanilla Bean Gelato, Seasonal Sorbets and Profiteroles (gelato in a puff pastry with dark chocolate sauce and almonds).
If there’s a better deal in this town for 30 bucks, let us know, please.
It’s an even better deal considering that legendary pianist Paul Conrad is playing on a baby grand. His Phantom of the Opera medley was especially memorable.
As we discovered last weekend, while The Ilikai is receiving a needed refurbishing, Sarento’s - and the glass elevator that hints at the 360-degree views soon to come at the top - is the same gem I recalled from, well, too long ago. Whether it’s a romantic dinner for two or a family meal (a children’s menu is also available), an evening at Sarento’s is a special occasion. And if it weren’t for Aaron Placourakis’ other, nearby restaurant,Aaron’s,the service at Sarento’s would be unmatched in Waikiki.
We began the evening with the popular Lobster Ravioli ($33), which is actually lobster, crab and shrimp in housemade pasta topped with chunk lobster and a lobster-reduction sauce in truffle butter.As G.M. Jones says,“It’s lobster inside, cooked in and on top of more lobster. A previous chef took it off the menu, but people kept asking for it, so it’s back on the menu to stay.”
Wise move.
This, as well as the Salad Alla Gabriella (named for Placourakis’ daughter, and which is essentially the same as the Maui Wowie Salad at Aaron’s), we washed down with a perfectly paired Italian Tomaresca Puglia Chardonnay ($9), nicely fruity and acidic, quite unlike some of those ponderous,oaky California Chards.
For main courses,we shared Pan-roasted Opakapaka with crab meat and Cremini mushrooms in a lemon butter sauce with water-cress salad (market price) and Ossobuco with saffron risotto ($34).
The opakapaka reminded me of why it is my favorite island fish, and the preparation shows off the Big O’s capacity to carry complex flavors.
The ossobuco fell off the bone, and was just right with a rich brown sauce and the saffron risotto. This is a “big taste"item, and went wonderfully paired with Carneros Buena Vista Pinot Noir ($10), with a nose of ripe strawberries, jam and spicy vanilla.
With room rapidly running out, we still went for dessert, and marveled at the classic table-side preparation of blue-gold flaming Banana Fosters Crème Brulet and Strawberry Fosters - decadently and rather artistically topped
(along with the white tablecloth) with swirls of dark chocolate sauce.
Consider us content.
By the way, if you can find metered parking behind the Ilikai, go for it, but it’s much simpler to valet park at the hotel’s main entrance on Ala Moana Boulevard.
P.S.: When the next-door Hilton Hawaiian Village shoots fireworks on Fridays evening, Sarento’s offers an up-close “eye-level"view of the colorful explosions. Big “wow!” factor.
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Dining at the bowling alley
Friday - May 23, 2008
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Apparently it’s never too early to know what you want to do in life. At the tender age of 6, Gregg Uyeda wrote in a school project that he wanted to own a bowling alley.
“My brother and I kind of grew up in a bowling alley,“says Aiea Bowl co-owner Glenn, laughing. “It’s amazing that Gregg’s wish came true.”
Today the brothers are owners of Aiea Bowl, known to bowling fans - and to a growing number of foodies - as one of the best dining secrets on the island. Initially, the Uyeda brothers thought the bowling alley might cover the restaurant’s high food costs and small profit margins, but had no idea that a takeout window, bakery, casual restaurant and catering department would quickly make The Alley a destination all its own.
Cosmic bowling might be fun, but the food is reason enough to visit.
“We have people who come just to eat, and we have people who come just to bowl,” says Glenn. “Whatever they do is fine with us.”
Mostly, though, even the dedicated league bowlers are getting the message that the food at their local bowling alley is getting lots of attention.“The biggest problem we have right now,” says Glenn,“is finding enough parking for the customers who want to come eat.”
It’s worth checking the schedule before you descend on the rooftop parking lot; if there’s a league playing (on Friday mornings, for example) you’ll be hard-pressed to find a spot.
“Our regular customers already know to come early for breakfast or late for lunch to avoid some of the rush,” says Glenn.
First-timers to The Alley might want to go for some of the most popular dishes, although in truth, everything is good.
“The Tasty Chicken is about 40 percent of our entire business,“says Glenn of the supremely tender bites. “We spent a long time in the kitchen with my mom and with Chef Shane to get the recipe exactly right.”
Family recipes played an important role in building the menu,along with the experience brought by KCC grads and talented chefs Shane Masutani and Tiffani Luke.
“We call my mom the ‘Kitchen Mama,’” says Glenn.“She’s been a big part of developing the recipes, and I knew that Shane and Tiffani were the people we needed to build our reputation.“So convinced was Glenn that he persuaded Shane to leave a promising job in Las Vegas to return to Hawaii. Together, this unassuming and talented team has done an outstanding job of creating a menu that works on every level - dishes are visually appealing (I like the fact that you can order smaller portions in bowls), inexpensive (their excellent “handmade"burger is just $5.25; pan-seared furikake ahi over rice in a bowl with salad is $6.95) and a balance of local style with a gourmet edge.
Signature dishes include Spicy Shrimp ($11.95), Teriyaki Beef Steak ($8.95), Mahimahi Alley Style ($8.50) and Loco Moco ($9.95). Plates come with choice of brown or white rice,macaroni salad or spring greens.Burgers,salads and pizza also are on the menu, and there’s a late-night pupu menu,too.
But it’s at the bakery you’ll most likely be surprised. Creations like a heavenly Lemon Drop Crunch Cake,Five-layer Chocolate Cake and Pumpkin Crunch are a match for any fine-dining desserts in town. The Alley Restaurant Bar and Grill Aiea Shopping Center third floor 99-115 Aiea Heights Drive www.aieabowl.com Catering: 693-5125 Restaurant: 486-3499
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Two chefs, one great year
Friday - May 16, 2008
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Contrary to pre-opening opinion, chefs Donato Loperfido and Philippe Padovani have not been battling over the menu this past year. In fact, talk to either of these distinguished, passionate chefs about their first year together at Elua and all you’ll hear are positive comments.
“We enjoy working together,” says Loperfido.
In fact, rather than tempers and pots flying around the kitchen, most of the problems the two chefs have encountered have come via less-glamorous sources.
“We’re supposed to have the same number of dishes on the menu,” says Padovani, “and that can sometimes be a problem because there are so many dishes we each want to do.”
Customer complaints come loud and clear, too - but only when a favorite menu item disappears.
“Guests don’t want us to take anything off the menu,” says Padovani, a co-founder of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement and a man who’s used to rotating seasonal produce and changing his menu at least three times a year. “Our problems are always deciding what should stay and what should go.”
Someone who had no doubts that these two would create one of Honolulu’s best restaurants is co-owner Keith Kiuchi.
“The boys get along incredibly well,” says Kiuchi, “and their friendship is reflected in their food.”
While, technically, at Elua one page of the menu is Loperfido’s and the other Padovani’s, choosing from both sides is encouraged. Depending on the season, one page might showcase rustic Italian - with hearty dishes like stuffed pork loin, escargots with Hamakua mushrooms or grilled lamb chops - while the other features dishes like hearts of palm salad, tender moi or pan-fried John Dory.
This month, Elua celebrates its first-year anniversary with a four-night series of wine dinners and events.
The celebration begins Wednesday, May 21, with a Raptor Ridge wine dinner and continues Thursday with a private fundraising event at the Sub Zero Wolf showroom, where the chefs will battle Iron Chef-style to see who can create a perfect pairing between their food and Raptor Ridge wines.
Friday and Saturday, a “best of the best” menu will be offered at the restaurant, featuring the chefs’ most popular dishes including Risotto con Funghi Misti (Arborio rice with seasonal mushrooms and white truffle oil), Crispy Confit of Muscovy Duck Leg (on a bed of lentil ragout) and Costolette di Agnello (grilled Australian lamb chops with Kalamata olives, feta cheese, tomatoes, Maui onions and a red wine sauce.)
Wine pairings (mostly hand-crafted and sourced by Loperfido in Italy and California) are offered in both 2-ounce and 4-ounce portions.
Wine lovers might want to reserve seats at the Wednesday night wine dinner, where there’s an opportunity to taste the acclaimed boutique wines from husband-and-wife winemaking team Annie and Scott Shull. The $75-per-person four-course dinner includes grilled eggplant rollatini, risotto with baby artichokes and pancetta, and a duet of roasted squab and pan-fried Hudson Valley foie gras. Three wines are included, and a Raptor Ridge Pinot Noir flight (2004 and 2006 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir and 2004 and 2006 Reserve Pinot) costs an additional $20.
And while Elua is keeping both chefs busy, they still make time to indulge their other passions: Padovani spends time each week making chocolates with his brother Pierre for their gourmet chocolate stores, and Loperfido often can be found behind the counter of his Italian restaurant, Pasta Basta, at Restaurant Row.
Two chefs, four businesses and one year later.
“It’s a lot of pressure,” says Donato, “but it’s challenging and fun.”
Elua Calendar Of Events: May 21: Raptor Ridge Wine Dinner at Elua Restaurant and Wine Bar, $75 per person
May 22 : “Iron Chef ” Wine Pairing Fundraiser for Kapiolani Medical Center at the Sub Zero Wolf Showroom
May 23 and 24: Best of the Best five-course menu at Elua Restaurant
For more details and to make reservations:
Elua Restaurant and Wine Bar 1341 Kapiolani Blvd. 955-3582
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Fresh, flavorful Thai cuisine
Friday - May 09, 2008
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In an industry where staff turnover is high,Keo’s Thai Cuisine is something of an anomaly. Open for more than three decades, the popular Thai restaurant has staff members who’ve been there since day one.
“Our cook, Urai Gamiao, has been with us for 31 years,” says owner Keo Sananikone,“and many more of our employees have spent their entire careers with us.“It says something about the man who is credited with bringing the first taste of Thai food to Hawaii.
If you haven’t been to Keo’s in Waikiki or sister restaurant Keoni’s, the service and the décor are the two things that stand out as soon as you walk in. Keo graduated in architecture from the University of Washington, and the interior of his restaurant exudes style and beauty.From flower arrangements as tall as small trees,to life-size bronze statues, Keo’s artistic touch is everywhere, including in the kitchen.
The menu has a number of Thai staples - the kind you’ll find in most Thai restaurants, but Keo’s offers a more adventurous taste of Thai dining.“We grow as much of our own fruits and vegetables as we can,” says Keo. “It’s one way we ensure that no pesticides are used on our herbs or fruits.“Twice a week he heads into Honolulu with a truckload of fresh flowers and produce that may include mint,basil, kaffir lime leaves,limes and lemons, jackfruit, mango and sweet basil.
Keo learned to cook as a teenager, and soon realized that Thai food was a huge hit with American palates.
“I missed the food of my home very much,“he says of the years he spent in California at boarding school. “So I would cook for the dorm parents and my classmates and for host families when I went to their homes.“When he came to Hawaii in the late 1970s, there was an obvious need for a good-quality Thai restaurant.
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“There was only one Thai restaurant in Honolulu,” he says.“It was very good, but it was so small and only run by one or two people. I thought that Hawaii was so multicultural that the people here would enjoy Thai food - and a nice dining environment.“He opened in 1977 and became an immediate hit with both locals and tourists, including a host of celebrities.
Appetizers include gorgeous fresh summer rolls filled with the herbs, and do order the deliciously plump and tasty Spring Rolls ($7.95) that come with fresh herbs, lettuce leaves and a sweetly sour dipping sauce.They’re some of the best examples of their kind. Evil Jungle Prince is Keo’s most famous dish and it comes with seafood, shrimp or chicken tossed in a slightly sweet sauce made with coconut milk and chili peppers. The Penang Curry ($15.95) is to Thai cuisine what Chicken Tikka Masala is to Indian food,and has been a best-selling dish for more than 30 years.In Keo’s version, the flavors of lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves add a piquant note while coconut milk and chili add sweetness and heat.
This weekend Keo’s offers a Mother’s Day menu that features some of the restaurant’s most popular dishes.
The set dinner ($27.95 per person) offers appetizers of crispy noodles and spring rolls followed by a green papaya salad. Entrees include Panang seafood curry and the restaurant’s tender,sweet barbecued spare ribs. There’s duck breast with plum sauce,eggplant with fish, cashew nuts with chicken,and spicy sweet and sour seafood with vegetables, as well as a selection of rice - and a rose for every mom. The Mother’s Day menu is available at both Keo’s and Keoni’s, with valet parking at Keo’s and validated parking at Keoni’s.
Keo’s Waikiki 2028 Kuhio Ave. 951-9355
Keoni’s By Keo’s 2375 Kuhio Ave. 922-9888
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Cinco de Mayo food and fun
Friday - May 02, 2008
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The busiest day of the year might be just around the corner, but you won’t find anyone stressing out at Jose’s.“We look forward to Cinco de Mayo,” says co-owner Mark Martinez. “We have a great staff, fun customers and good food - it’s really a good day.”
Jose’s is one of the oldest Mexican restaurants in Honolulu, and has become the unofficial home of Cinco de Mayo celebrations. Part of the reason revelers return year after year for a day of lively celebration may be, in part, because of excellent margaritas and the home cooking and family recipes that keep Jose’s a firm favorite.“The recipes,from our salsa to our enchiladas, have been in our family for generations,“says Mark. “Nothing’s changed.” And that includes the restaurant’s margarita recipe, created by his father.
The Martinez family moved to Hawaii in the 1960s - brothers and sisters were soon followed by mom and dad - and have been a part of the local dining scene ever since. “Our brother opened the La Paloma on Kapiolani Boulevard in the 1960s,” says Mark. “Then our mom saw this space and she told us we should take a look at it. I was just a kid,of course,“he adds,laughing. Fred Martinez opened the restaurant in the 1970s, and Mark, who’d been working as an art director, joined him soon after.
Indeed, Jose’s has been in its Kaimuki location so long it would be hard to imagine any other business being there.With its shuttered white windows, small bar and TV screens tuned to sports channels, it’s more than just a restaurant - it’s a fixture in the Kaimuki community. “We have a huge regular crowd,” says Mark, “and we also have a regular following of UH fans who come here to watch games rather than going to noisier sports bars.”
And UH fans aren’t the only people to take advantage of the sports coverage at the Jose’s bar.
“We get a lot of golfers who come every year when they play the Sony Open,” says Mark. “And some of our fairly regular customers include Tom Lehman, Bette Midler, Jim Nabors - even The Edge came for dinner after the U2 concert here last year.”
Jose’s menu features a typical range of Southwestern cuisine.
“It’s a combination of California and New Mexican cuisine,“explains brother and co-owner Fred.“And over the years we’ve added new dishes.”
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And they’ve created some along the way. “We were the first to do crabmeat enchiladas and crabmeat burritos,” says Fred,“and we were the first to create the whole enchilada.” Dishes make it to the menu based on customer approval - Mark and Fred listen to ideas and suggestions - but mostly the mainstays are there because they’re home-cooked family recipes, like the homemade crispy tacos, enchiladas and huge stuffed burritos. “I think our food appeals to people who really love home-cooked food,” says Mark.
Celebrations at Jose’s begin Monday, May 5 at 11 a.m., when the restaurant opens for lunch. There’ll be a reduced menu (anything that takes too long to cook isn’t a great idea on the Mexican equivalent of St. Patrick’s Day) with specials for the day. And if you’re looking for something to soak up a tequila or two, try the bread pudding. It’s a gorgeous creation of moist, sugary pudding topped with ice cream and whipped cream and served in a sundae glass.
“It’s another one of the things our mom used to make,“says Mark of the fabulous dessert.
Jose’s Mexican Restaurant
1134 Koko Head Ave.
732-1833
Cuervo Classics.
Confused by the dizzying array of tequila on the market? Here’s what to look for if you’re ordering the most popular tequila in the world - Jose Cuervo.
* Cuervo Especial. Gold in color, a blend of Reposada and younger tequilas. Sweet with subtle agave notes. Perfect in frozen or on the rocks margaritas.
* Cuervo Classico. Silver in color, this is a blend of young tequilas mixed with some oak-aged tequila. There’s a hint of citrus on the nose. Great for cocktails.
* Cuervo Flavored Tequila. These are blended tequilas flavor with natural orange,citrus and tropical fruit. Sharp and citrusy on the nose, these are best enjoyed on the rocks.
* Cuervo Tradicional. Straw-colored, aged for six months in American oak and then hand-crafted, each bottle of this 100 percent blue agave is marked with the Jose Cuervo signature and numbered by year of production. Makes a magical margarita.
*Cuervo Black. 100 percent Anejo tequila with discernable toasted oak and vanilla notes. Try this one on the rocks with a dash of lime.
* Cuervo Reserva de la Familia.
Toasty oak and almonds on the nose, lots of lovely cinnamon, vanilla and fruit on the palate. This is the top shelf of tequila and should be drunk like a cognac. Don’t let anybody make a margarita out of this one!
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Flavors of southern India
Friday - April 25, 2008
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While most of us in Hawaii have diverse backgrounds, Jiva Sagaran has a broader culinary heritage to draw on than most.
“I grew up in Waianae,” says the owner of India Cafe,“but my father is from India and my mom is from Michigan. They met in Geneva and ended up in Hawaii.”
Sagaran grew up eating Indian food when his dad cooked and meat and potato dishes when his mom cooked.
“My grandparents migrated to Penang, which has a real food culture,” he says. “The food there is typically one-third Indian, one-third Malaysian and one third-Chinese. All of those influences were in our meals.”
Things took an interesting turn when Jiva met his wife, Shalisa.
“My wife is from Boston; her mother is Portuguese and her father is Indian from Trinidad,“he says.
So has all of this translated into fusion cuisine? Thankfully, no. Jiva’s food at India Café reflects the southern Indian part of his heritage, and the flavors and techniques are, for the most part, traditional.
“We don’t use coconut milk or dairy in our food,“he explains,“and we stick to traditional methods of baking bread.”
The bread, a crepe-like flatbread, is made from lentils and rice.
“Not many Indian restaurants make this bread because it requires a lot of time,” says Jiva.
At India Café, there are easy options for those looking for an interesting way to add more vegetables and protein to their diet, and for those looking to pursue vegetarian choices.
“The food is pretty healthy,“says Jiva of the dishes that include Okra Vegetable Curry ($8.95), Coconut
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Cabbage ($7.95) and Chana Masala ($8.95). But there’s plenty for meat lovers on the menu, too, including a fairly spicy Lamb Sambal ($9.95 half ), which showcases extremely tender lamb in a spicy chili sauce, and an excellent chicken curry.
The Kilohana Square restaurant is small and has an appealing, unpretentious feel. Indian silks grace the walls and serve as colorful tablecloths, and intoxicating flavors fill the small dining room as you wait to eat.
Appetizers include Samosas ($3.95), pastry turnovers filled with potatoes and served with a sweet chili sauce and papadums ($1.95). Do order the Dosai slices ($2.75), the traditional South Indian rice pancakes - they make great wraps for entrees and are perfect for dipping.
Relishes and side dishes are an important part of every Indian meal. They’re inexpensive (about $2.50 each), and they each bring a different taste profile to the table. Raita (a yogurt and cucumber dish) adds a cooling element, while mint and fruit chutneys add a sweet and sometimes sour (via hot lime pickle) note.
Entrees include lamb, chicken and fish, all in a variety of South Indian-style sauces, and there are seafood dishes that include Shrimp Curry ($9.95) and Fish Curry ($9.95) with boneless mahi mahi.
Undoubtedly the best thing to try if it’s your first visit is Raja’s Thali Plate ($16.95). With a choice of entrees and a vegetable dish, the platter also comes with rice, dosai, vegetable sambar, chutney and papadums.
And if you’re hesitant to try Indian food because you think it may be hot and spicy, India Café should change your mind. Most dishes come with an extremely mild spice base, and you can ask for the heat level to be raised as you like.
Except for the spicy eggplant. “It comes with a warning,” admits Jiva.“It is really hot, and we warn people - even if they’re Indian - we tell them it’s ridiculously spicy.”
India Café
1016 Kapahulu Ave.
Kilohana Square
737-4600
www.indiacafehawaii.com
Open for dinner nightly from 5 to 9 p.m. and for lunch on Friday,
Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
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Going beyond the menu
Friday - April 18, 2008
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When creativity and artistic ability come together on a restaurant menu, you can be sure that the food will be inspiring. But as any artist knows, finding one’s muse is not always easy.
For Sergio Mitrotti, the owner of Café Sistina, a new enthusiasm for traditional dishes was sparked by a customer.
“I was asked by an older Italian lady if I would make rabbit for her,” he says, “and, of course, I did.”
Pleasing a customer is nothing new for the chef/artist/designer, but what Sergio found in the kitchen was a new desire to create dishes from his heritage.
“When I started to cook the rabbit - and then tripe because someone else asked for that - I started to really enjoy myself,” he says “Going through the process of cooking this food is a real part of Italian cuisine.”
Since then,Sergio has been asked frequently to prepare tripe, rabbit and octopus in the “Italian way.”
“Rabbit is a wonderful dish,” he enthuses, “but, of course, it’s not something you can force on people by putting it on the menu. I’m happy to let people know that I will do it by request.”
Over the years, Sergio has battled a local indifference of sorts toward authentic Italian food, and despite a menu that reflects both his mother’s and his grandmother’s favorite recipes, he has, at times, been frustrated by his own menu.
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“Of course it’s flattering that people like the food and that they don’t want anything to change,“he says. “But my memories and my roots and my heritage are all tied up with cooking, so it’s important to me to be creating dishes from my background and not just making spaghetti and meatballs or what people think of as Italian food.”
The fact that Sergio’s uniquely rustic dishes like tripe and rabbit are not on the menu has already contributed to a demand.
“People are already calling about the rabbit,” he says, as word spreads. Guests need to make a reservation for a minimum of four people and give Sergio notice before they are treated to the “off the menu"menu. If you really want to try something special, ask for the octopus Italian-style.Sergio believes his to be as tender as any you may have tasted.
“I have challenged a Japanese sushi chef to an octopus cook-off in the past,“he says.“I believe I can make octopus that would surprise most people by its tenderness and texture. Italians cook octopus the best way.”
But don’t worry if you’re one of the regular customers who visits Café Sistina for the excellent spicy puttanesca sauce with linguine or the tender veal piccata - they won’t be going anywhere.
“It’s almost impossible to change our menu,” says Sergio. “I sit down with our staff and begin to tell them about new dishes,and they all protest and tell me what we can’t possibly take off the menu. They know that the customers will not be happy.”
Occasionally though, next to the gorgeous gorgonzola ravioli and the penne arrabiata, a new dish sneaks in and becomes a favorite.
“The pappardelle with venison ragu is fairly new, and people love that,” he says.
What’s happened, in a way, at Café Sistina over the 18 years Sergio has been there is what happens in Italian homes around the globe - everybody wants to eat their favorite dishes again and again. In creating an atmosphere that’s casual and friendly, Sergio has given people a taste not just of Italian food, but of Italian life.
“I’m trying to give people a taste of my culture,” he says.
Café Sistina
1314 S. King St.
Honolulu
596-0061
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Giant shrimp, small prices
Friday - April 11, 2008
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For good Japanese food and great value, it’s hard to beat Hifumi. Located within the Chinese Cultural Plaza in Chinatown, Hifumi is known for large portions, an endless supply of rice, giant shrimp and fluffy, golden tempura.
“We have always changed the oil for the tempura every day,” says the restaurant’s Elsie Ching. Elsie has worked at Hifumi for more than 20 years and believes one of the reasons so many regular customers come back is for the clean, fresh, sweet taste of the tempura.
“People know the difference,” she says.“When you use oil a second day, it is already different and you change the flavor of the tempura. By keeping it fresh every day, we keep the tempura light and let people taste the shrimp or vegetables inside.”
And while Hifumi might not be the fanciest restaurant in town, its giant shrimp tempura is sure to rival any for quality - and size. With three sizes of shrimp on the menu, there’s deluxe (26-30 count), jumbo (8-12 count) and giant jumbo - that one’s a foot long.
“We have the biggest shrimp of any restaurant,” says Elsie. “Even our smaller shrimp are larger than many others being served.”
While the regular menu at this unpretentious restaurant features Japanese staples like hot or cold udon or soba noodles, chicken teriyaki, chiri nabe, sukiyaki and tonkatsu, it’s the special menus, set meals and seasonal dishes that are well worth checking out. Recent “Specials of the Season” (look for them handwritten on a board by the kitchen) included Giant Jumbo Shrimp Tempura and vegetables for just $11.95, Wafu Sea Bass for $11.95 and plump, juicy Wafu Scallops for $14.95 - all served with miso soup, tsukemono and as much rice as you can eat.
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“We never charge for extra rice,” says Elsie.
Donburi and mendon are featured at Hifumi, too. Donburi bowls come with toppings like teriyaki chicken($5.95), pork loin simmered with egg ($6.95) or eel, shiitake mushrooms, tofu and egg ($8.95); mendon bowls feature udon noodles topped with broiled eel ($8.95), pork ($8.95) or chicken and onion simmered with egg ($7.95).
It’s easy to see that the restaurant’s humble surroundings contribute to the low prices, but foodies who enjoy seeking out momand-pop places still will be amazed at the prices. A 10-ounce fresh filet of opakapaka, for example, served either wafu style (sizzling on a hot plate with fresh garlic, soy sauce, ground onions and sake) or steamed with ginger, green onion, shiitake mushrooms and soy sauce is just $14.95 and comes with miso soup, tsukemono and rice. Add an order of sashimi for just $5 more or complete the gourmet meal with sashimi and shrimp tempura for $24.95. And if you’re a senior citizen, there’s even better value: The opakapaka and shrimp tempura (along with tossed salad, gyoza, rice, tofu, miso soup and tea) is just $10.95.
“The location helps us keep our prices low,“says Elsie,“and our customers know that we have good quality every day.”
Hifumi’s Elsie Ching: ‘We have the biggest shrimp of any restaurant’
Hifumi Japanese Restaurant
Chinese Cultural Plaza
100 N. Beretania St.
536-3035
Open Monday-Saturday
Lunch: 11 a.m.-2. p.m.
Dinner: 5-8:30 p.m.
Dinner: Friday and Saturday 5-9 p.m.
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Catering to kama’aina
Friday - April 04, 2008
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When Shokudo restaurant opened its doors three years ago on Kapiolani Boulevard, the aim was to attract local diners.
“The reason we’re here and not in Waikiki is that we always wanted to have a local crowd and not rely on tourists,“says general manager Sam Eligio.
Fair pricing, stylish surroundings, friendly staff and good food have ensured a steady following - from families to late-night clubbers - despite the closure of the street and almost a year of construction work nearby. Now that the sidewalk is open and foot traffic can again pass Shokudo’s distinctive red doors,the future looks brighter than ever.
“Since Nordstrom opened, it has been a boom,” says Sam. “And it’s nice to see people walking on this side of the street again.”
It’s not unusual for first-time diners to arrive with a pre-conceived notion that Shokudo might be pricey.
“People come in, see the décor and the environment and think it’s expensive,“says Sam.“But once they see the menu, the portion sizes and then realize that we encourage sharing, they’re usually really happy.”
There are some “don’t miss"items on the menu: Agedashi Tofu ($6.95) or Fresh Homemade Tofu ($6.95), for example, where silky smooth tofu is made in house every day. Or try the Char Siu Pork and Tokyo Negi ($6.95), where pork is thinly sliced and lightly grilled and then topped with the Tokyo Negi.
A variety of sushi rolls feature the Shokudo version of a California Roll ($8.95), colorful Rainbow Rolls ($13.95) and the popular Spicy Tuna Roll ($9.95).An intriguing addition to the menu that works really well is Beef Tataki on Balsamic Sushi ($11.95),where thin slices of beef are draped over sushi rice seasoned with rich balsamic then topped with crispy onion slices. But the sharing fun begins in earnest with the arrival of entrees. I love the Ishiyaki Unagi Rice ($8.95) that comes in a hot stone bowl. Leave the rice to sit in the 500 degree pot and it soon crisps on the bottom and starts to turn a golden-brown color. The crunch and texture of the rice adds much to the dish that’s topped with grilled unagi.
And you have to try the Sushi Pizza at least once.“People love this,” says Sam of the rice-based “pizza” on a bed of nori. “We wanted to take regular pizza off the menu and offer something different, so we used our rice, added crab, salmon and jalapeno, and baked it. Amazingly, it works!”
For noodle hounds - especially those who get their cravings very late at night - there are udon noodles in soup, Kalbi cold noodles or comforting yakisoba topped with sukiyaki beef,spicy shrimp or chicken karaage.
If you stop by late at night (the restaurant is open until 1 a.m.week-nights and until 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday) and need no more to satisfy than a colorful cocktail and a huge dessert, then grab a seat at the stylish bar and have an order of the gigantic, puffy Honey Toast topped with ice cream. My favorite is the deconstructed Shaved Ice ($6.95) with green tea and sweet adzuki beans.
“We have something for everyone,” says Sam of the menu that changes seasonally.“We like to say that at Shokudo there’s a combination of food cultures with a touch of Japanese.”
Shokudo Japanese Restaurant
Ala Moana Pacific Center
ground floor
1585 Kapiolani Blvd. 941-3701
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All-you-can-eat ribs in April
Friday - March 28, 2008
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As general manager Jerry Pastones drives between the Tony Roma’s Waikiki and Pearlridge locations, he moves from one image of the famous rib joint to another.
In Waikiki, customers enjoy a taste of Tony Roma’s that has remained unchanged for decades - with décor to match.“It’s what people love about Tony Roma’s Waikiki,” says Pastones with a smile.“It’s part of the charm, the way our Waikiki location looks. It has its own ambiance and a style that people are familiar with.”
Step inside Tony Roma’s Pearlridge, however, and prepare to be surprised. The new look is more casual steak house than down home rib joint. Flat screen TVs at the bar, comfortable booths and a contemporary atmosphere enhanced by light wood, designer lighting and lots of natural daylight make this Tony Roma’s seem a world away from Waikiki.
“I work with the same restaurants, the same menu, the same philosophy every day,” says Pastones, “but they couldn’t be more different. As soon as you step into Pearlridge, the whole scene is lighter, brighter - the energy is different.”
The face lift is all part of a corporate look that Tony Roma’s is encouraging - and one that’s paying off with customers ready for a fresh experience but with those same award-winning ribs.
“Whatever you do, people come for the ribs,” says Pastones. “They’re the best-selling thing on the menu, and people still come for them more than anything else. But now there’s a steady lunchtime and early evening crowd who come for the other things that we do well.”
Steaks, burgers, salads and chicken are popular alternatives for those who do not live by ribs alone, and there is a host of new menu items, too.
But if you’re uncomfortable with change and can’t see past a plate of baby back ribs, don’t worry, all the old favorites are still on the menu. “There’s a core menu that will never change,” says Pastones of the tried and true recipes served in almost 200 restaurants in more than 30 countries.
Signature items include a giant Onion Ring ($5.99) that comes with house barbecue sauce or a creamy, mayo-based sauce; Potato Skins ($6.99) smothered in melted cheese and topped with bacon pieces and chives accompanied by a ranch dipping sauce; and there are soups and salads on the menu that can be ordered in appetizer or entrée sizes. For lunch, there are sandwich, salad and burger options, including a Sirloin Cheddar Grille ($10.99) - thinly sliced sirloin steak on Texas toast with Cheddar cheese, tomatoes and served with crispy onions and barbecue sauce - and a dozen or so burger variations ($8.99-$10.99).
But for those who can’t resist those sweet, tender, falling-off-the-bone ribs, there’s good news in April: It’s all-you-can-eat time.
During the month of April, the “Endless Slab"promotion will run on Wednesdays only. Guests pay for one order of ribs and the accompanying side dishes, and then the ribs just keep on coming.
For Pastones, a Guam native who knows how much locals love ribs, the prospect of the all-youcan-eat rib promotion is exciting.
“We know how much people in Hawaii love our ribs,” he says, “it should be fun to see how many our customers can eat at once.”
Tony Roma’s
1972 Kalakaua Ave.
942 2121
98-150 Kaonohi St.
487 9911
Ala Moana Express
1450 Ala Moana Blvd.
951-9900
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The place to eat plenty
Friday - March 21, 2008
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When Todai first opened in Hawaii in 1999, it instantly became famous as the restaurant worth a one-hour wait. With a gigantic seafood buffet that included shrimp, crab and lobster, it became an instant hit with budget-conscious diners. Tourists and locals happily stood together in line, anxiously anticipating the damage they’d do to the 135 items on the seafood buffet.
Things have changed a little in the past nine years. There’s no long wait and there’s no more lobster on the line, but you could hardly say that business had slowed down.
“This Hawaii Todai is the busiest location in our company,” says general manager Jeff Chen. “It’s been that way since day one.”
Todai’s appeal is almost universal. For tourists it offers much of the seafood they hope to try on a visit to Hawaii - sushi, sashimi, poke and fish - while for kama’aina there are meaty crab legs, steaks, udon, sushi, teppanyaki, tempura and Chinese food - all in portion sizes too good to be true. You need only spend an evening watching people pile plates high with crab legs and freshly rolled sushi to see the appeal.
“The crab legs are big, the meat is sweet and a little salty, and local people appreciate the quality,” says chef Max Kang.
You’ll also find on the buffet line that stretches or more than 100 feet a selection of, well, everything. It’s the only restaurant I know where the menu is so large it’s listed alphabetically. And while the lunchtime menu is large enough for most huge appetites, at night it goes into overdrive.
“We have over 135 dishes in the evening,” says chef Max proudly. “At our sushi station there are over 40 different types of sushi, and we make hand rolls to order.”
For whoever has room left, there’s also a vast array of bitesized desserts, all made in-house.
But even with a staggering number of items on the menu, at the all-you-can-eat buffet line there’s always room for more. This coming weekend look for clam chowder, hickory smoked ham, pineapple shrimp with honey-mayo sauce, Mediterranean shrimp, walnut shrimp, deviled eggs and New York steak teppanyaki as features of the Easter menu.
Max and Jeff are particularly proud of Todai’s signature sauces. You’ll find them at the teppanyaki counter, and you can dip almost anything from crab legs to sashimi into any of the four different sauces.
“Jeff wanted something spicy and with lots of heat, so we created this habanero dressing,” Max says of their latest creation. There’s a ginger sauce made with freshly ground ginger and shoyu, and a creamy wasabi that’s made with soy sauce, roasted sesame seeds, wasabi, garlic and cream.
“We know that we can’t really improve on the taste of prime rib or pork belly,” he adds,“so we try to make the sauces interesting and keep the quality of the dishes high.”
Personally, what fascinates me about buffets are the behind-the-scenes details: those burning questions like how much rice is cooked every day (more than 150 pounds) and how much people really eat.
“A lot,” say Jeff with a smile, although he politely declines to talk about actual portions or people. “It’s what we want at Todai - people who feel like they can come and eat a lot and get good value. That’s the idea. And that’s why so many people come back.”
“We don’t want people to leave until they’re full,” jokes Max, who will admit to sometimes finding the kitchen numbers misleading. “There are days when I think, ‘wow’ we must have had 600 for lunch, and then Jeff tells me no, just 350 or 400 who ate plenty!”
Todai
1910 Ala Moana Blvd.
947-1000
www.todaiwaikiki.com
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The ‘Buzz’ about a Pearl City favorite
Friday - March 14, 2008
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Have you ever wondered about the odd shape of those glass windows at Buzz’s Pearl City? The slanted glass that gives the restaurant its distinct “stadium” look was designed with the customers in mind.
“My dad (founder Buzz Schneider) designed the windows to avoid glare so that guests could enjoy the views, especially of the city and harbor lights at night,” says Kaleo Schneider, general manager of Buzz’s Restaurants. The simple design feature works so well that window tables at the restaurant are always full of customers who enjoy the unique view across historic Pearl Harbor.
But it’s not just the view that’s kept regular diners coming back to the steak-and-seafood restaurant for decades; it’s a combination of good value, great food, a welcoming staff and the best salad bar in town.
There are more than 20 items on the all-you-can-eat salad buffet, all included in the price of dinner. Kiawe-grilled steaks and fresh island fish (the restaurant features up to five different presentations of fresh fish each night) come with salad, starch and Buzz’s famous garlic bread and butter.
“We have this great sourdough bread with garlic butter that we grill,” says Buzz’s Pearl City general manager Lynn Villafana, “and you can smell it all through the restaurant all night. First thing people say when they walk through the door is, ‘What’s that great smell?’”
Buzz’s opened in 1962, and the original restaurant in Lanikai is as popular today as it was 46 years ago. “When my dad began the restaurants, he quickly earned a reputation for giving people great value food,” says Kaleo. That value is still around today - with prices that look as though they haven’t changed in years.
Buzz’s menu includes the kind of quality dishes you’d expect to find at a steakhouse - steaks,
rack of lamb, chicken, king crab legs. Top Sirloin ($19.95) is a generous 10-ounce portion, and the 13-ounce New York Strip is $21.95. Appetizers include market price sashimi, sautéed mushrooms ($4.95) and a creamy artichoke dip ($6.95).
If you’re a wine lover, then try Buzz’s on a Wednesday night, when a half-price special on all wines offers incredible value.
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“As long as you’re not trying to combine any other special, there’s 50 percent off the entire wine list on Wednesdays,” says Lynn.
The Wednesday night prices are such a great deal that you might easily mistake the bottle price for that of a glass. Edmeades Zinfandel, for example, is $17 a bottle, Duck Pond Pinot Noir just $18 and MacMurray Pinot Noir is $16.
“We don’t mark the wines up very high to begin with,” says Lynn, “so the prices are a good deal on Wednesdays.”
With La Crema Chardonnay at $16 a bottle, Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc for $16.25 and Erbacher Riesling (a crisp German wine perfect with fish) at just $13 a bottle, it’s hard to imagine that there’s room in the restaurant on Wednesdays.
The dining room, with its slightly retro look, bamboo booths and floral prints, is separated from the salad bar and kitchen by tasteful etched-glass dividers that serve to eliminate the “buffet look” that most allyou-can-eat restaurants have. And at night the view of Pearl Harbor makes for a stunning feature.
“We’re the only restaurant of its kind on this side of the island,” says Kaleo, “and it’s always been important to us to offer our customers good value and a great dining experience.”
Buzz’s Pearl City
98-751 Kuahao Place
487-6465
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No frills, just good Italian food at Pasta Basta
Friday - March 07, 2008
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When Donato Loperfido opened his casual, no-service restaurant, Pasta Basta, almost a year ago, it was almost too much to hope that the $9 plates of pasta on the menu and the $12 entrees could compare to the heavenly offerings his Manoa restaurant offered at more than twice the price. But Donato was as good as his word, and somewhere along the line he’s even managed to break the longtime curse of the Restaurant Row location that’s seen a dozen restaurants come and go in as many years.
“I knew that in this location we would have to rely on a good lunch crowd, and then on giving people what they want for dinner,” says Donato.
“By eliminating service we’re able to pass on the savings to our customers, and we make everybody happy, including ourselves.”
The lines that form at lunchtime most days are evidence that his formula works, and in the evening savvy diners happily pass on the trappings of finer restaurants to feast on dishes like fat, fresh pappardele noodles with olive oil, asparagus and smoked salmon, Orechiette Pugliesi, and the best risotto in town.
Pasta Basta works on many levels - at lunch it satisfies a demanding office crowd protective of their precious time, and at night you can bring the kids and enjoy a bottle of wine as they devour thin crust pizza or fresh pasta.
“This is a family place,” says the irrepressible Donato. “We want people to bring the kids, make as much noise as they want ... it’s not fine dining, where you have to restrain children.”
But don’t expect fast food. “It’s quick and its fresh because its made to order,” says Donato, “but it’s not fast.”
There’s an eclectic wine list of Italian whites and reds that Donato sources and distributes through his company Flavors Of Italy.
“People can’t get enough of the wines,” he says.
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You’ll find some of his selections at Vino and Fujioka’s Wine Times, as well as on the wine list at Elua, the fine dining restaurant he opened last year with Chef Philippe Padovani. You can try most of them by the glass at Pasta Basta for as little as $6, making it easy and inexpensive to find a perfect match for your $12 entrée of Tagliatelle Boscaiola (handmade fresh spinach pasta tossed with prosciutto, chicken breast, sautéed mushrooms, olive oil and pine nuts), or $9 Penne Putanesca. “That dish,” says Donato, pointing to the Boscaiola, would have cost $25 in my Manoa restaurant.” So would any of the 20 or so other fresh pasta dishes, like Linguine Pescatore ($15), Crudaiola ($10) or Gnocchi Toscani (with Tuscan meat ragout and white truffle essence, $13). There’s a selection of grilled panini that satisfies equally for dinner, and salads that include a classic Nicoise and Caprese featuring local greens. And thin crust pizza comes from the brick wood-burning oven that after so many different owners seems finally to have found its true purpose.
Honestly, the food is so good you could point your finger at the menu with your eyes closed and still end up with some of the best Italian food in town.
And the service - well, that part’s up to you.
Pasta Basta by Donato
Restaurant Row
Monday-Friday 11.a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
pastabastabydonato.com
5-10 p.m.
Saturday 5-10 p.m.
Phone and fax orders are welcome:
Ph: 523-9999
Fax 523-9997
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Oodles of Japanese noodles
Friday - February 29, 2008
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When Nihon Noodle owner Mayumi Kaneshiro says that many of her customers find the taste of Nihon’s broths and noodles so appealing they come back for more, it doesn’t take long to see that she’s not exaggerating.
I stopped by the South King Street noodle house last week at lunchtime just as a small crowd descended. Four ladies sat down at one of the tables and I could-n’t help but overhear as one immediately began to tell the group what to order.
“You ate here already?” asked one lady of her friend.
“Yesterday,” the lunch-leader replied. Then a pause ... “and the day before, too.”
Lots of laughter followed that remark.
At another table, where a sprightly elderly man took a seat, the waitress greeted him like an old friend. “I’ve been here twice this week already,” he told me, smiling.
Is there something addictive in the broth?
“I don’t think so,” Kaneshiro answers, laughing. “But I do know that people like the noodles, and it is true that they come back the second day to try them - and sometimes soon after that.”
Nihon Noodles is located at the corner of South King and McCully (in the same little mall as Any Place Lounge). For almost a year, the building’s bright orange canopy and cool, curiously marbled interior was home to Neo Nabe, a nabe house that enjoyed its 15 minutes of fame specializing in homemade broths and gourmet toppings. The variations-on-a-theme trend continues with Nihon and its simple menu of fresh noodles.
“We brought the three most popular noodle dishes from three different regions of Japan,” says Kaneshiro, who was born and raised in Hiroshima. From the south of Japan come Hakata noodles, from the north comes the Sapporo noodle and from the central part of the country, Tokyo noodles.
“We wanted to bring these specialized broths and noodles to Hawaii,” says Kaneshiro, “because we thought that people here would really appreciate their differences.”
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In Japan, each region offers a different noodle, with different broths and garnishes, and at Nihon there are several choices. The most popular dish on the menu is the Nihon Noodle Special, a sampling of three types of noodle in three different broths. Hakata features thin noodles served with a Tonkotsu broth, made by simmering pork bones for eight hours. The resulting broth is rich, milky white and oily. Tokyo noodle is a medium-thin noodle served with shoyu broth and garnished with bean sprouts, char siu, green onions and nori. Sapporo features the thickest of noodles in a miso broth.
From a side bar on the menu you can choose among bok choy, broccoli, kim chee and scallops (and almost a dozen other garnishes), each between 30 cents and $1.50. All soups come with bean sprouts, nori, char siu and green onions - and don’t be surprised by the red ginger garnish on the Hakata noodle; it’s traditionally served that way.
A number of cold noodle dishes (tsukemen) are featured - an assortment of thin, medium and thick noodles with a variety of broths.
“You take cold noodles and dip them in the hot broth,” explains Kaneshiro. The fresh noodles here are enhanced by a saltier, more concentrated broth. Each of the cold noodle dishes comes with sides of vegetables and a small slice of char siu. For the most part, dishes are all under $7, except for the Nihon Noodle trio, which at $7.95 is an attractively presented great deal. No wonder, really, that it’s the restaurant’s best seller.
There’s a warmth about Nihon Noodles, despite the strange décor that has now remained unchanged through three owners.
With a young, helpful staff, good parking, an accessible location and a gracious owner, it’s easy to see why diners feel inclined to return. As word spreads, Nihon Noodles ought to become one of those highly recommended neighborhood stops where the food is different enough to be interesting, and interesting enough to stay the course.
Nihon Noodles
2065 South King St.
944-6622
Monday-Saturday
Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m.
Dinner: 5-11 p.m.
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Fine wine with Korean fare
Friday - February 22, 2008
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If you were trying to guess the nature of Christopher’s Hu’s former business, then a look at the wine list at Yakiniku Seoul might provide your first clue. Where similar restaurants offer a predictable array of domestic beers and sake, Hu offers a surprising wine list along with a wide selection of premium sake and imported beer.
“I used to be in the liquor business,” says the affable Hu. “It seemed natural to me to offer our customers fine wines with their food.”
So don’t be at all surprised to find Chalk Hill Chardonnay, Franciscan Cabernet, A by Acacia Pinot Noir or the wines of Dan Duckhorn on the list. Ordering a glass of Pinot Noir with boneless short ribs, a La Crema Chardonnay with steamed saba or even a bottle of Opus One to complement a combo platter has never been easier.
“We do have a lot of customers who like to drink wine with their meal,” says Hu,“and even though most people are surprised to see Opus One and other distinguished wineries on the list of a yakiniku restaurant, we do have customers who order and enjoy.”
The wine list complements Hu’s menu, but is also the first indication that this is not your average yakiniku restaurant.“For us, the difference in our food is that we use the finest and highest quality ingredients we can source,” says Hu.
That means Kobe beef, top quality boneless short ribs and Tamaki rice.
“The rice is important part of the meal,” says Christopher. “People who know and understand this kind of food appreciate that we use the best, most expensive rice available.”
If you’re a first time guest, you might want to go for lunch to experience a sampling of what the restaurant has to offer. You’ll be able to taste the quality of the food, and take advantage of the lunchtime pricing.
“At lunch we offer similar dishes to our evening menu,” says Hu.“It can be a good way for people to get a taste of our food.”
Specials include a combo plate of kalbi, barbecue chicken and beef for just $9.95.
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The restaurant (on the corner of South King and Kaheka) is bright, clean and welcoming, with low ceilings, simple décor and a small bar.
Popular dinner menu items include a combination plate that features Kobe beef, boneless short ribs, kalbi and rib eye ($43.95).
The Beef Tongue ($21.95) has its devotees, and regular guests rave about the butterfish and the corvina.
If you want to find a perfect match for that glass of Opus One, go for the Yakiniku Seoul Special ($46.95). The enormous serving of food includes short ribs, grilled yellow corvina, green onion jun, nori and miso stew or soft tofu stew, and spicy raw crab (a restaurant specialty) along with rice and sides.
Christopher Hu and his wife Su have been in the restaurant business since taking over Yakiniku Seoul almost nine years ago, and they’ve earned a name among the best Korean restauarants in Honolulu.
Hu likes to joke that his wife got him into the business.
“Mostly the liquor business is more fun,” he says with a smile, “I was talked into the restaurant business.”
Those who enjoy a fine glass of wine or excellent sake with their Korean food should be glad that he was.
Yakiniku Seoul 1521 S. King St. 944-0110
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Blending the flavors of Asia
Friday - February 15, 2008
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When Paul Ke and his brother-in-law Ben Cheng decided to open a restaurant featuring their favorite food, they could only hope that customers would enjoy their eclectic style.
“We wanted to put the kind of dishes that we like to eat at home on the menu at Wild Ginger, ” says Cheng,” and we took the risk that people would enjoy them, too.”
To date, almost four months into opening, the gamble appears to be paying off.
“The dishes that are our favorite ones are the ones that have become most popular,” says Ke.
Top-selling entrees at Wild Ginger include chicken with a sambal sauce, filleted red snapper and house green salad, along with a dozen or so different homemade sauces.
Wild Ginger should work on those nights you can’t decide between Thai, Chinese or Vietnamese food - all three are represented on the menu, along with dishes with some Malaysian and Japanese influences. Ke was born in Malaysia to restaurant-owner parents and was exposed to a variety of styles and Asian-influenced cuisine as a child.
“I built my cooking style around the kinds of food that I was used to eating, and I use my own style to influence some change,” he says.
Once you get the hang of the menu at Wild Ginger, it’s pretty simple to follow. Choose among spring rolls in the Chinese style, summer rolls in the fresh, Vietnamese style, crispy won tons or a variety of soups and salads. Tom Yam Goong (a dish with as many spellings as ingredients) is on the menu next to hot and sour soup in the Chinese style, along with an egg flower soup and a local-style oxtail soup that runs as a special.
With entrees - just pick a sauce, then a style, then a heat level.
“Everything we make is fresh and made-to-order,” says Cheng, “and our sauces and salad dressings are all our own recipes.”
There’s a great crispy red snapper that comes topped with a homemade sweet-and-sour sauce on a bed of stir-fried vegetables. It’s an excellent dish, with the moist flesh of the snapper given a little kick and a lot of flavor from the sweet sauce. At $15, it’s the most expensive entrée on the menu, but well worth a try.
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With reasonable prices (entrées are between $8.50 and $10.50) and a highly visible corner spot on 9th and Waialae, Wild Ginger has the ingredients to establish a strong neighborhood base. And with an established, trend-setting town as its neighbor, there’s ample opportunity for this little spot to benefit from an already savvy restaurant clientele who love to patronize the eclectic restaurants of Waialae Avenue. There’s parking behind the restaurant, on the street and in the lot between 9th and 10th avenues - although beware busy lunchtimes and try to go at off hours.
“We looked around at all the different Asian restaurants,” says Cheng, “and we didn’t really see one combining all types of styles in one place. We’re doing something a little different, and we just want people to come, try our food and see what they think.”
There’s a great deal at lunchtime, with a sampling of dinner items served with soup or salad and rice, and prices start at $6.95.
And why the name? “I love to cook with ginger,” says Ke. “My favorite sauce is our ginger glaze sauce. I use ginger every day.”
Wild Ginger
3441 Waialae Ave.
Honolulu
738-1168
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A taste of what’s new at E&O Trading Co.
Friday - February 08, 2008
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I always think that one of the biggest differences between a home cook and a chef is the passion with which they rush to create new dishes. Most of us are grateful, I think, to have 10 or 12 really good dishes under our belts, and we spend our time trotting them out in various guises. Not so with someone like Nicholas Salvi, who is not only in the middle of revamping the entire menu at E&O Trading Company, but also is creating monthly tasting menus and a series of cocktail pairing menus that will run throughout the year.
“I like the challenge of creating new dishes,” he explains. Since opening, E&O has offered dishes with a Southeast Asian flair, and while Salvi wants to keep the flavorful dishes, he’s determined to kick them up and make them more accessible.“I want people to come into E&O and still get those Southeast Asian flavors, but I want them to be comfortable. I want them to recognize dishes on the menu and then enjoy the different flavors.“Hence the debut of six new dinner entrees at the trendy Ward Centre location.
“I’ve tried to totally change the flavors,“says Salvi.“There’s a comfort food element present in some of the new dishes, but at a fairly sophisticated level. The Mild Curry New York Steak, for example, comes with mashed potatoes and a ‘gravy,’ but the potatoes are Yukon Gold mashed with kabocha and served with Hamakua Himeji mushrooms, and the steak is marinated in curry paste, honey, mirin and Thai basil.Without becoming overpowering, there’s a welcome edge to the dish that adds a little fire and a lot of flavor to the steak.”
For duck devotees (like me), there’s a well-constructed Five Spice Seared Duck Breast with grilled papaya that comes with incredibly good rice. The jasmine rice, already fragrant and firm, positively pops with crunchy pieces of garlic and is utterly addictive. This may turn out to be one of the restaurant’s signature dishes, and certainly it should be offered as a side to accompany almost everything. I can imagine eating the rice with salmon, ahi, lamb and even simple grilled vegetables.
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Salvi is particularly happy with his Chili Plum Glazed Rack of Lamb, a variation on a Moroccan recipe that he’s been serving up in various forms for the past four or five years.
“This dish is really killer,“he says of the lamb that comes with a sweet onion curry risotto.
What Salvi hopes is that guests will come to E&O to enjoy the new flavors and then come back to see what he’s doing next.
“I want people to learn to trust me so that they know the food, whatever it is, will be good,“he says. That trust, he adds, is essential to creating dishes that go beyond the norm.
A series of cocktail-paired dinners are planned this year along with a monthly tasting menu of some of Salvi’s latest dishes.The first cocktail pairing happens Monday, Feb. 11, when Salvi and mixologist Joey Goettesman present a dinner where lobster with awamori, ahi with sake, foie gras with rum, and porcini-seared Australian filet with Gentleman Jack are just a few of the dishes and drinks on offer.
“When you learn to trust a chef,” says Salvi,“you know that the food is going to be good. I want to get to the point here where people trust me enough to try new things.”
E&O Trading Company
Ward Centre
second floor
591-9555
www.eotrading.com
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Chinese New Year dining
Friday - February 01, 2008
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I think of it as one of the cruel ironies of the food world that as soon as one gets through a successful month of eating well and shedding pounds after the excesses of December, February brings not one, but three occasions where eating is key. Chinese New Year, Mardi Gras and Valentine’s Day are all occasions where food is center stage.
Here’s a quick look at some of the tastiest Chinese dining.
Kung Hee Fat Choy!
Hee Hing Restaurant
449 Kapahulu Ave.
735-5544
James Lee and his family have been a part of the Honolulu dining scene for decades, and for many families, New Year tradition begins here. “We’ve seen generations of families grow up and return each year to our restaurant,” says Lee, “and we’re always happy to welcome new customers to celebrate this special time with us.”
At Hee Hing, celebrations will be held on both Wednesday, Feb. 6, and Thursday, Feb. 7, beginning with a traditional lion dance at 6:30 p.m. The Year of the Rat dinner buffet will be served Thursday from 4:30 to 9 p.m. Highlights are Chinese salad and appetizer station, carving station, and entrees which include jai, steamed clams, seafood black bean sauce, garlic ginger crab legs, beef brisket with lotus root, stuffed duck and Mongolian beef.
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Wah Kung Chinese Restaurant
1151 Mapunapuna St.
(99 Ranch Market, mauka side)
833-0880
If you’re near Mapunapuna, there’s no question where you should go to celebrate Chinese New Year, although you’d better call to make a reservation, as this is one of the busiest Chinese restaurants on the island. In the more-than-capable hands of Celina Gum,Yun-Hung Yeung and Sui-Man Leung, Wah Kung serves undoubtedly some of the best, traditional-with-a-local-twist Chinese food in town. Regulars love the noodles, soups and specialty dishes that include flavorful clams with black bean sauce, roast duck with plum sauce, scallop soup, minute chicken and cake noodles, and Chinese chicken salad. Prices are very reasonable, and portions are large.
Seafood Village
Hyatt Regency Resort and Spa
Street Level
971-1818
Known for its lavish family-style dinners and for excellent lunch and dinner value-priced meals, Seafood Village will begin its lion dance at 6 p.m. Thursday, Feb. 7, and will follow the performance with a special dinner menu. As part of restaurant’s ongoing dinner specials, there’s a nine-course menu that features cold cuts of pork loin, Thai-style fish filets, poached chicken with special sauces and live Maine lobster for just $28.88 per person.
Advance reservations are always a good idea at this popular Waikiki spot, and for Chinese New Year they’re essential.
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Hong Kong Harbor View Seafood Restaurant
Aloha Tower Marketplace
586-9989
With a dedicated and talented team offering everything from elegant dim sum to creative spins on traditional dishes, Hong Kong Harbor View has more to offer than just a great view.
“Our menu reflects the talent of our chefs, ” says owner Li May Tang. The Year of The Rat festivities commence with lively and loud lion dancing at 7 p.m., followed by a menu that includes deep-fried scallop balls, crab meat and tofu soup, Peking duck, live Maine lobster, fresh, locally farmed prawns with coconut and dry garlic, steamed fish and chef’s special Thai-style tenderloin of beef with curry sauce.
If you’re a gau fan, there’s none better than the one at Hong Kong Harbor View.
Au’s Garden Chinese Restaurant
1350 Mookaula St.
845-6213
If you’re looking for dishes like cold ginger chicken and a restaurant with mom-and-pop appeal, then head to Au’s Garden Chinese Restaurant. The unpretentious menu speaks volumes about this family-run restaurant with a reputation for consistently good food. Owners Kanchang and Yuet Ngai took over the restaurant about 18 months ago. “We have a special New Year menu,” says daughter Bonnie, “but people can order from the regular menu or special order pretty much anything they’d like.”
The set menu is just $128 for 10 and includes scallop soup, Chinese chicken salad, walnut shrimp, beef with broccoli, roast duck, Hong Kong-style crisp fried chicken, black mushroom with vegetable chow mein and steamed rice.
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Super Bowl party central
Friday - January 25, 2008
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Depending on which statistics you choose to read, the avocado has now become the most consumed fruit in America. Well, certainly on Super Bowl Sunday when, according to the California Avocado Commission, some 40 million pounds of the fruit will be mashed into garlicky, creamy guacamole in preparation for the biggest sports event of the year.
Probably a safe bet, then, that a Mexican restaurant is a good place to go to ensure a steady supply of guacamole. But how many of our restaurants are actually showing the game? Step up, Seor Frog’s.
I know, it’s not the place that immediately comes to mind when you think of somewhere to go eat - it’s not even really on the radar when you think “restaurant,” having built its reputation as a fun-loving place to party, where “dancing on the bar is not only allowed, it’s encouraged.” But with a menu of more than 70 Mexican-inspired dishes, flat screen TVs and a list of cocktails to drown the sorrows of even the sorest losers, it seems like the perfect place to head for a Super Bowl party.
“We’ll be offering drink specials, food and a great atmosphere,“says Seor Frog’s marketing manager, Suzy Ford. But don’t feel bad if the news that Seor Frog’s has so much on the menu had somehow escaped you. “People do think of us as a place to come for cocktails and a good time,” says executive chef Francisco Dardon with a smile. “But since we opened last year we’ve been gradually adding dishes to the menu and changing our dishes to appeal to the local tastes.”
Dardon and most of his culinary staff are from Mexico; they traveled to Hawaii to open this, the 15th restaurant in the fun-loving chain. Born in Mexico City, he moved to Cancun to further his culinary career, working with Seor Frog’s in several of its Mexican locations.
“We do very good food,” says Dardon, “and because our entire kitchen staff is from Mexico, the food is pretty authentic.”
While most of the Seor Frog’s menu is standardized throughout locations, there are some Hawaii-inspired dishes on the Waikiki menu.
“We added a Kalua Pork Quesadilla, Coconut Shrimp and a Mexican Honolulu Shrimp, which is like a kebob,” says Dardon.
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If you haven’t been to Seor Frog’s yet, let me be the first to tell you that you should go with a sense of humor and the desire to have a good time. It helps, too, if you have something to celebrate that requires a few cocktails. Bar stools in the shape of chubby posteriors invite customers to sit down and have fun; drinks are served in margarita glasses as big as fishbowls or in yardsticks - narrow tumblers that stand almost 3 feet tall.
And expect additional fun and excitement on Super Bowl Sunday.
With drink specials, $5 chicken wings and a mixed appetizer platter for just $20, there’s food and drink aplenty. “We’ll have DJs, a free football pool where guests can win cool prizes every quarter, great food and drink specials and just lots of fun, fun, fun!” says Ford.
Oh, and worried about actually being able to see the Giants and the Patriots? Don’t be - Seor Frog’s has 14 flat screen TVs and one 10-by-8-foot giant screen.
Seor Frog’s
Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center
corner of Lewers and Kalakaua 440-0150
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Sunday brunch with style
Friday - January 18, 2008
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One of the questions I answer most on my website and through e-mails is about Sunday brunch. There are many brunch options in Honolulu, but I like to search out brunch with a difference.Whatever the reason - food, music or ambience - these restaurants deliver something different.
PGC Marketplace Sunday Brunch at E&O Trading Company.
Third Sunday of each month
Ward Centre
1200 Ala Moana Blvd.
591-9555
Once a quarter on the third Sunday of each month, the elegant, partially satin-clad E&O Trading Company is turned into an Asian street market and a Sunday brunch that offers a taste of Southeast Asia is presented via a partnership with E&O and the Pacific Gateway Center.
E&O partner Kenwei Chong, who has traveled extensively throughout Southeast Asia, said the idea came to him to create an outdoor food market and set it up within the restaurant.
“Inviting the Pacific Gateway Center members to come and cook their own ethnic dishes in our setting just seemed a prefect match,” says Chong of the menu, which includes Thai Bean Thread Salad, Indonesian Beef Stew on Coconut Rice, Shave Ice Braised Crisp Pork and Pickled Watermelon Salad.“When you travel to countries like Laos and Vietnam, eating from the outdoor vendors and at their street carts is such a big part of the experience. I wanted to re-create that atmosphere at E&O.”
Quality wooden carts have been specially made for the restaurant, and at Sunday brunch, guests take a culinary tour of foods from countries like the Philippines, Cambodia, Thailand and Burma.
“We feature a lot of dishes that are influenced by traditional items from the Southeast,” says Chong, “and we also feature dishes that are cooked over hardwood grill broilers. The result is food that offers a change in pace from the usual Thai or Vietnamese fare.”
Sunday Brunch
Michel’s On The Beach at The Colony Surf
2895 Kalakaua Ave.
923-6552
“Look at the view,“says Michel’s general manager Philip Shaw, sweeping an arm out to the ocean. “We don’t think there’s a more beautiful location in Honolulu.” Michel’s offers an elegant and sophisticated Sunday morning with an a la carte brunch and not the usual beachside all-you-caneat buffet. Appetizers include Iced Black Tiger Shrimp Cocktail and a smoked salmon that’s done in-house by executive chef Eberhard “Hardy” Kintscher. Oysters and sashimi are featured appetizers, and there is a selection of soups and occasional specials. Traditional breakfast dishes like Eggs Benedict - poached eggs served over crisp, toasted English muffins with fresh artichokes and Dungeness crab meat and a rich, homemade hollandaise - are a joy and well worth saving up some calories during the week to enjoy! Try the beef tenderloin served with grilled portobello mushroom, sauted spinach and Lyonnaise potatoes for a taste of a great European chef at work. Grilled lamb chops with gratin potatoes and vegetables are light but full of intense flavor.
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Sam Choy’s Aloha Sunday Brunch
Sam Choy’s Diamond Head Restaurant
445 Kapahulu Ave.
732-8645
There are a couple of things that distinguish Sam’s brunch: One is a variety of fresh fish, the other is a genuine welcome for family gatherings - the larger the better! Despite its white tablecloths and fine dining status, Sam Choy’s is a remarkably casual and welcoming place. Live music provides pleasant background to dishes that are plentiful and well-prepared. From torched sashimi to creamy spiced poke and marinated butterfish, there’s a lot to satisfy local tastes.
Highlights include a poke boat with a wide variety of freshly made poke (spicy, creamy poke, wasabi ahi poke, togarashi tako and torched sashimi), an omelet station, a huge salad bar, and a variety of entrees that usually include prime rib and a carving station. Most weeks a chocolate fountain flows throughout brunch, bubbling with a steady stream of warm, luscious milk chocolate, enticing all but the most determined spirits to enjoy.
Seafood Sunday Brunch
Brasserie Du Vin
1115 Bethel St.
545-1115
For the ability to transport diners to another country for the afternoon, Brasserie Du Vin wins hands down with its Seafood Sunday Brunch. Sleepy downtown Honolulu is an unlikely place for this bustling, energized center of good food and wine, and there’s certainly not another bar/restaurant that has the European ambience Du Vin does.
Sunday brunch is a leisurely affair here. Bring the newspapers, a good book or your favorite friends to enjoy dishes from the kitchen of chef Scott Nelson that include the delightfully named Gumbo Ya Ya, fabulous Eggs Dauphine, Savory Shrimp Souffls and Escargot baked in Herb Garlic Butter. Tiger shrimp, grilled salmon, blackened ahi and daily specials all feature seafood dishes with Nelson’s signature N’awlins/Euro style.
From the sunny yellow painted courtyard walls to the cool of the cask room, Du Vin offers a perfect Sunday retreat.
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A perfect night at Aaron’s
Friday - January 11, 2008
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The unmatched view from the 36th floor of the Ala Moana Hotel ... the emphasis on stellar service ... the menu filled with favorites from top to bottom ... a hardworking staff of longtimers such as captain Tim Carvalho ... the magic of bartender Bobby Acoba ... the wall of celeb photos ...
Where to start in singing the praises of Aaron’s?
There is so much to like about this place, it’s hard to choose.
But it always comes down to the food, doesn’t it?
Perhaps the thing I like most about Aaron’s is that you cannot easily categorize it. Yes, there are Pacific Rim elements. But it’s also a classic American steak-and-fish house - yet with Asian influences. And if you just want a good salad, this is the place. If there’s any theme here, it might be great food, good-size portions and reasonable prices - all with that view. It’s all quite tasty.
Aaron’s is also where June Jones chose to have his last meal in Hawaii last Friday night before jetting off to Dallas and SMU - from bon appetit to bon voyage.
Can’t say what the coach dined on, but here’s what we enjoyed last Saturday.
Maui Wowie Salad ($10) is the eternal favorite here,a chopped salad featuring Maui onions, Greek olives, capers, creamy feta cheese, tomatoes, bay shrimp, red bell peppers and,oh yes,lettuce,all in a mild dressing that ties all the tastes together and does not overpower.
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Also from the appetizer side of the menu, we tried the Original Tiger Eye Sushi ($14).The chef cuts a notch in prime ahi, into which is placed an asparagus spear, then it’s rolled with rice in nori, then briefly tempura fried.When sliced, the ahi and rice have a sort of yinyang look - which also describes the texture and taste. Served with greens and cherry tomatoes,it’s both a visual and a taste treat.
Both of these we washed down with a glass of 2003 Louis Latour Grande Ardeche Chardonnay ($8.50), offering citrus and vanilla notes.
From the entree side of the menu we sampled four.
Onaga with baby Shanghai cabbage, soy-nori vinaigrette and sizzling hot peanut oil (market price) is very Oriental, flavors both Chinese and Japanese. The onaga is firm and tasty,cooked with crispy
skin on one side, and the soy-nori sauce is filled with subtle tastes.
Opakapaka has always been one of Aaron’s'best, and here it is served with bay shrimp, mushrooms, asparagus, mushrooms and dill in a lemon-garlic butter sauce (market price). So many tastes, yet they all work together in that sauce.
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The Blackened Double Pork Chop ($26) combines a bit of Cajun spice with curry, served with a pineapple marmalade and chopped macadamia nuts. The chop is sliced, sauce drizzled over it, and is the best new dish I’ve come across in quite a while.
As a lover of lamb, I had to try the Lamb Chop ($37), served over a salad of spinach, feta and Greek olives,all of it over pita bread topped with beet root tzatziki (pureed beet with creamy feta cheese). I confess, it’s the first time in my life I’ve liked beets, and in fact loved it. A fantastic combination, and the lamb itself was perfect, tasty and smoky.
These we enjoyed with a glass of 2005 Estancia Pinot Noir from Monterey,offering hints of red cherry and cranberry with a toasted hazelnut finish.
Topping all off, we finished with Strawberry Panzini, a flaming dessert prepared tableside, served over ribbons of heavy crme and creamy dark chocolate and brown sugar.
With Honolulu city lights sparkling all around, the last orange hints of sunset fading, it was as close to a perfect meal as you can get.
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Going with the grain at Umeke Market
Friday - January 04, 2008
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If the thought of beginning a new year with a new health regimen is enough to have you reaching for the cream cheese donuts, then you might want to visit Umeke Market, where owners Michelle and Darryl Yamaguchi, along with Darryl’s sister Debbie, have an approach to health that is refreshing, accessible and destined to succeed.
“Healthy eating has to be realistic,” says Michelle. “If it’s not something people can do on a daily basis, then it’s not going to work.”
She advocates making small changes - really small ones - that you feel you can easily live with.
And one of the most reassuring things about the staff at Umeke Market is that they take their own advice.
“This year, for us it’s going to be grains,” says Michelle. “Just introducing grains to our diet, to the deli and to our ready meals will be enough of a step to take.”
The introduction of a quinoa (keen-wa) salad earlier this year alerted Michelle and her kitchen staff to the fact that people want to eat more whole grains - they just don’t know how.
“Grains are a bit of a mystery to most people,” she explains. “People aren’t sure how to cook them or what they taste like. At the deli, our customers can try things first before they take them home and try out recipes themselves.”
The deli section at Umeke, filled with dozens of salads and side dishes, provides a simple way to introduce a whole grain salad or a raw leafy green salad to family mealtimes.
“Lots of our customers come in for side dishes or salads, or just something they can add to an entre they’ve made at home,“says Michelle.“It’s an easy way of introducing healthy food to the whole family.”
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While many of Umeke Market’s customers have specific dietary needs, a growing number of clients are regular people who indulge in the occasional fast food restaurant trip, or who grab take-out food once or twice a week. To satisfy the urge for meat and two starches, healthy plate lunches are about to appear at Umeke. A steam table is the newest addition to the kitchen and Michelle is in the process of preparing healthy plate lunch-style food to go.
“We see a lot of people who want something fast to grab and go,“she says, admitting that she’s often in that position herself. “We have three small children and are working parents, so of course there are times when we’re grabbing whatever we can for dinner.” So the addition of a steam table to the kitchen will make brown rice, veggies and rotating entrees accessible to all.
Final entrees haven’t yet been chosen, but the rotation is sure to include the popular miso eggplant with chicken, sesame brown rice and Thai tofu curry.
With healthy bento boxes, a wide range of sandwiches, burgers, complete meals and sides, there’s something at Umeke Market for everyone, whether you’re already committed to a junk food-free lifestyle or not.
“My favorite thing about what we do,“says Michelle,“is that we’re always trying to get better. I mean, I eat here every day - I’d get bored if we didn’t change things around a lot.”
For full menu details, supplement information or expert advice on changing your diet, check out www.umekemarket.com
Umeke Market
4400 Kalanianaole Highway
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A taste of New Orleans at Ruth’s Chris
Friday - December 28, 2007
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Lots of sugar and spice in the air this weekend as thousands head out to New Orleans and even more dedicated fans get ready to watch the Sugar Bowl right here at home. We thought we’d ask someone familiar with Southern hospitality what Hawaii football fans might expect when they get to New Orleans, so I headed over to Ruth’s Chris Steak House and met up with Jeff Blair, the newest member of the Honolulu executive team.
Jeff has been with Ruth’s Chris for 17 years, and worked closely with founder Ruth Fertel in New Orleans. It doesn’t take long to see that he’s infused with the passion the famous Miss Ruth had for her restaurants.
“Miss Ruth was a true inspiration,” he says.“She worked in the restaurant right along with us, and when I first arrived at Ruth’s Chris about 17 years ago, she was cutting meat in the kitchen.” The restaurant was founded on a genuine desire to give guests a high quality dining experience. “Miss Ruth would go to every table in the dining room and greet diners every night she was in the restaurant,” says Jeff.“She never ignored a customer, and she had a real desire to see people happy.We have the same goals here in Hawaii.” Jeff’s background is as corporate chef - so it’‘s no surprise he’s keen to introduce some traditional Southern dishes to the Honolulu menu.
“We’re bringing back our 40- ounce Porterhouse steak, which has always been popular and is a great dish to share,” he says of the massive chunk of meat. “And we’ve just added a sweet potato casserole with pecans that’s one of our more traditional dishes.”
And Jeff’s keen to showcase the talents of local executive chef Kyle Y. Onashiro, so diners will find Kyle’s specials on the menu alongside the regular Ruth’s Chris entrees.
But while you might not find red beans and rice on the steak house menu, you will find one of the most popular Cajun dishes barbecued shrimp.
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“This is a true New Orleans- style dish,” says Jeff of the sautéed shrimp lathered in butter. “I guess most people expect the shrimp to be grilled, but the recipe calls for layers of pepper, salt and garlic - and lots of butter.” The butter is essential to the dish, as is a freshly baked baguette to mop up the sauce.
And while Ruth’s Chris Steak Houses prepare to welcome Hawaii fans to its Honolulu locations (flat-screen TVs at both the Waikiki and Restaurant Row locations will be tuned to the Sugar Bowl), Jeff doesn’t doubt that Hawaii fans will receive an incredible welcome in New Orleans.
“The people of New Orleans are very like Hawaii people,” he says. “They’re warm and friendly and open, and before you know it you’re sitting in someone’s kitchen eating red beans and rice, when a few moments before they were just a stranger. I think that Hawaii fans will love the city and the people.”
Ruth’s Chris Steak House Restaurant Row 599-3860 Waikiki 226 Lewers St.
440-7910
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Christmas Eve highlights
Friday - December 21, 2007
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A Magical Christmas Eve.
Few nights of the year are as magical as Christmas Eve. From twinkling lights on decorated trees to champagne cocktails and celebratory dishes, restaurants around the city are dressed up in their finery with chefs anxious to make memorable holiday meals.
We’ve picked a couple of places where the night is sure to be merry and bright, with everything on the menu from sugar-dusted foie gras to seared asparagus salad and aged prime rib.
Joyeux Noel at Brasserie du Vin.
If you’re looking for a unique atmosphere more reminiscent of Paris than Honolulu, then this gorgeous European brasserie has much to offer. Candlelit rooms, a long, mood-setting bar, tasteful Christmas decorations and a stylish open courtyard all add to the delightful experience of Du Vin. A special Christmas Eve menu will be served Monday evening, prepared by Chef Scott Nelson. It includes blue crab and sweet corn consomm, oysters mignotte, lobster thermador, and vanilla bean braised veal cheeks. Dessert is a unique combination of seared foie gras with powdered sugar beignettes. Nelson’s food is paired with wines from Du Vin’s sommelier Jason “Cass” Castle, including sparkling wines, Zilliken Riesling and a flute of Guinness. You’ll be guaranteed a little Christmas Eve magic if Du Vin is your choice.
Christmas Eve Wine Dinner Dec. 24 6:15 p.m.
$100 per person.
Limited Seating. Call 545-1115
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d.k’s Steak House, Waikiki.
d.k’s Steak House in Waikiki has a romantic air about it on almost any night of the year. With subtle lighting, dark wood booths, al fresco tables illuminated by tiki torches overlooking Waikiki beach and a menu that satisfies both sophisticated and relatively casual palates, the restaurant is the perfect place to spend a few hours getting away from it all. With Christmas lights twinkling along the bar and a spectacular dinner menu, this is a great bet for a holiday meal you’ll remember.
Start with oysters on the half shell, escargot, black and blue ahi or bacon-wrapped shrimp, and then taste Kahuku corn bisque or grilled asparagus salad. Entrees include the restaurant’s 30-day, dry-aged seared prime rib with blue cheese butter, rack of lamb, lobster pappardelle or fresh Hawaiian fish with prosciutto, mozzarella, fingerling potatoes and white wine garlic butter.
Dessert is included in the $65 per person price. Wine selections at this boutique steak house are by far some of the best value in the state. d.k Steak House Christmas Eve/Day Dinner, 5-10 p.m.
Waikiki Marriott Beach Resort and Spa
2552 Kalakaua Ave. 931-6280 (Parking is $10 with validation at WBMR. Self-Parking is $5 with validation. )
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Aaron’s Restaurant.
There’s nothing quite like the view from Aaron’s atop the Ala Moana Hotel, and if you’re looking for a place to view the entire city in all its festive glory, then this is one of the finest vantage points.
The menu is a combination of Mediterranean-inspired dishes, some of them shared with sister restaurant Sarento’s. Greek Salad, Caesar Sarento’s Style, Ahi Diane, Beef Filet and Opakapaka Gabriella are a few examples of signature dishes. Executive Chef George Gomes has perfected simple dishes like Herb Roasted Chicken ($26) with lemon rice, feta, arugula and tomatoes; Grilled Rack of Lamb ($36) in a balsamic marinade; and Blackened Salmon ($26) with a Hana papaya, tomato salsa and papaya lime beurre blanc. There are more than 2,000 bottles in the extraordinary wine cellar, and a private dining room within the restaurant is perfect for intimate gatherings if you need your Christmas Eve to be especially romantic.
Aaron’s Ala Moana Hotel 410 Atkinson Drive 955-4466
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Bringing a basket of goodies
Friday - December 14, 2007
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When I first discovered Panya Bakery about seven years ago, I was impressed by both the food and the hard-working owners, Annie and Alice Yeung.
The first time I met the sisters they’d been up until 4 a.m. baking gingerbread men and packaging gift baskets for the holidays.
“We expect to be busy during the holidays,” Annie said with a smile. Seven years later, the sisters have built a reputation for creating sweet holiday treats that offer something more than just the usual cookies or festive cakes - and nowadays they get so busy that regular customers know to place orders well before the hectic holidays begin.
With seasonal decorations imported from Japan and a talent for creating cakes that look almost too good to eat, Panya Bakery offers some truly special seasonal goodies. From traditional yule logs to picture-perfect Christmas cakes, there’s a taste of the season from a variety of cultures. The traditional Yule Log ($28) comes smothered in piped white and dark chocolate with a rich mocha and coffee butter cream center inside a chocolate sponge. On top (depending on the cake) sits Santa surrounded by a variety of Christmas decorations that include miniature books, reindeer, sleighs and Christmas trees. There’s a Christmas Gift Box ($30) wrapped in sugar and tied with a gift bow of butter cream icing - and if you prefer your holiday treats to have something a little different, then try the Christmas Crme Puff Tower ($40), a magnificent towering treat of choux pastry balls piled atop a fresh cream mountain of strawberries and blueberries, then drizzled with chocolate.
The Yeung sisters take their baking seriously. They learned their trade in Japan working under a master baker, and their talent is evident in the unusual lightness of their breads and pastries. Attention to detail is paid to even the smallest cake.
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“We have small traditional cakes, like German stollen, Italian panatone and gingerbread, that are wrapped in holiday packaging,” says Annie, “and our customers also can pick items and have them packaged in gift baskets.”
Baskets filled with freshly baked items, including stollen and pana-tone, also may contain hand-decorated gingerbread cookies, short-bread cookies, Russian tea cookies, coconut maroons, chocolate chip cookies and oatmeal cookies. A selection of corporate baskets start at $50, and all of the breads and pastries, including the traditional European cakes, are baked in the lighter Japanese style. “Panya means ‘the bread house’,” explains Annie, “and we want to offer a European style with a Japanese influence.”
And Panya isn’t just about holiday desserts and decadent pastries. The restaurant has garnered a loyal following for those anxious to avoid the extra stress of cooking large family meals.
“Our holiday meals to go have become incredibly popular,” says Alice.“We now offer two kinds of Christmas Eve dinners to satisfy the requests of our customers.” One ready cooked meal offers a succulent honey-glazed roasted turkey stuffed with Panya’s signature mochi rice and lap cheung, the other is a honey mustard-glazed bone-in ham. The complete meals include a selection of appetizers, sides and dessert.
For more information on holiday specialties, gift baskets or complete meals: www.panyabakery.com
Panya Bakery, Bistro & Bar, Ala Moana Center
Phone: 946-6388 Fax: 808-946-6988 Hours of Operation: Monday-Saturday 7:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m.-10 p.m.
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Improving on the classics
Friday - December 07, 2007
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There are few fine-dining restaurants in Hawaii that can match the ambience, the food and the history of Michel’s. Opened in 1962 by legendary restaurateur Michel Martin, the sun-kissed oceanfront room has become a dining institution in Hawaii and a guardian, of sorts, of classic French-inspired dishes.
“My training is from the Black Forest,” says executive chef Eberhard “Hardy” Kintscher in his soft, German accent. “And most of the recipes we do at Michel’s go back to classic traditional sauces and stocks, and things that take a lot of time.”
Time-consuming perhaps, but Hardy and his kitchen crew are masters of the art.
“I think the difference with the food at Michel’s is that we take the time to roast bones for rich stocks, and make demi glaces that add a lot of body to our dishes,” Hardy says.“In some restaurants, it’s hard to get people in the kitchen to understand the importance of this and the difference that it makes.”
Not so at Michel’s, where most of Hardy’s team (led by sous chef Jesus Guittap) have been with him for seven years.
“It takes a certain talent and dedication to be able to cook like this,” says Hardy, “and we’re lucky to have a team that understands that.”
But while rich sauces and stocks are one reason the dishes at Michel’s are such a treat, it’s Hardy’s ability to take traditional recipes and infuse them with local flavor that makes dinner here exciting and refreshing. This is not fusion food, but rather a combination of classic European dishes with fresh, local ingredients.
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Bouillabaisse is a perfect example. The traditional Provencal seafood stew is given a Hawaiian twist as local fish and herbs are added to lobster, scallops, shrimp, mussels and clams. It’s light, is intensely flavored with rich fish stock and features ingredients from Hawaii.
The transportation of European dishes to Hawaii is seen further in Ossobuco of Kurobuta Pork.
“I wanted to do something traditional, of course,” says Hardy, “but to me, ossobucco is a little ordinary - and I wanted to do something beyond ordinary.”
So he experimented with the tender, marbled meat of the black Kurobuta hog. “The meat is more beefy in taste and more meaty,” chef says of the prized pork. Cooked traditionally in the German style - with juniper, cloves and bay leaf - the tender meat is then given its Hawaiian twist.
“I have these wonderful ladies who call me every time they make guava puree,” says Hardy with a huge smile. “They have guava trees that produce so much fruit, and the ladies make a puree that is so beautiful and so consistent, I wanted to find a way to use it.” He created a guava barbecue glaze, and the pork dish was born - a perfect example of how Chef Hardy is able to keep a strongly European influence in the food at Michel’s yet still allow diners to have a Hawaii dining experience.
With tuxedo-clad waiters, antique French furnishings and attention paid to the tiniest of details, Michel’s is more than a dining institution. Thanks to a team of highly dedicated professional staff led by Philip Shaw in the dining room and Hardy in the kitchen, Michel’s has managed to move effortlessly through four decades of culinary change in Honolulu and still come out on top.
Michel’s at The Colony Surf 923-6552 www.michelshawaii.com
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A Helemano holiday gift
Friday - November 30, 2007
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If you’re looking to cut the holiday stress in your life this year, and to find gifts that are high-quality, locally made, inexpensive and already wrapped, then I might have found the perfect solution.
Helemano Plantation is one of my favorite spots on the North Shore, not least because the restaurant has some of the most delightful, enthusiastic staff on the island. Within the plantation grounds, a gift shop and bakery carry a surprising range of gifts perfect for the holidays - especially if you want gifts that are easy to mail and carry a taste of Hawaii with them.
Everything at Helemano is sold to benefit ORI (Opportunities for the Retarded Inc.), so all purchases contribute to the ongoing efforts of the devoted Helemano team headed by Susanna Cheung.
“We tell people to come here and buy from our shops because they’re cheaper than Waikiki,” says the dynamic Cheung with a grin.“And when people actually get here they’re amazed at what we have.”
My own purchases last week included quality T-shirts in every size, from infant to XXL (they’re three for $10 or 10 for $28); hand-cut, made-in-Hawaii wooden puzzles for less than $6; two homemade pineapple pies ($7.50); and boxed Helemano Plantation Coffee and cookies.
If you’re one of the thousands of people who drive past Helemano every week and think of it as just a lunch buffet spot, then please stop and make a visit.You’ll be surprised at what else is there.
“We’re a real working plantation,“says PR director Ron Renshaw of the vegetable gardens that supply the kitchen, the orchard that produces fruits for pineapple and coconut pies, and the shops and bakery that sell a steady supply of baked goods, fresh fruits and crafts.
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Seasonal good buys include Helemano gift boxes like the ones illustrated here. A triple gift tower includes two large pies in a gingham box, two medium pound cakes and a package of coffee in the second box, and four packages of assorted cookies in the top tier box. Brownies and candies are added for the holidays, and the entire package - wrapped and tied with a ribbon - is $38. The pies come from a secret recipe handed down to Cheung by a respected Hawaiian teacher.
“I promised never to sell the recipe or to sell the pies for anything other than our charitable causes,” she says.
A double gift tower (two boxes stacked and containing two medium pound cakes, one package of coffee and four packages of assorted cookies) is just $20. Smaller individual gold-colored gift boxes containing cakes/cookies and coffee are $10.
The programs at Helemano that benefit its clients include day care for the elderly, job-training programs and a residential center where boarders and day care mentally retarded clients live and work.
And if you think the drive is too far, then cast your mind back to last Christmas and the time you probably spent driving around Ala Moana looking for a parking stall. This might just be the perfect way to shop,support a worthy cause and eliminate stress all in one.
“We built the restaurant and the gift shop so we could support ourselves,” says Cheung.“But we also wanted to create a place to give people in the community something special - and value for money.”
Helemano Plantation 64-1510 Kamehameha Highway Wahiawa 622-3929
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Big bone kalbi, crisp tempura and no MSG
Friday - November 23, 2007
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No neighborhood is Hawaii is complete without a local Korean restaurant,but take 10 different people and ask them their favorite entre and you can guarantee answers as diverse as any of the side dishes on the buffet.
At Kum Chee Korean Buffet in Aiea, the show-stopping dish is big bone kalbi. Or maybe the soft tofu soup. Or possibly even the jap chae.
“We’re becoming known for lots of dishes,” says Diana Nacasa, daughter of co-owner Kum Arakawa.“Most people love our big bone kalbi,” she says of the long, tender strips of meat marinated in a combination of Korean spices, pears and fresh pineapple.“The fruit helps to tenderize the meat, and the result is something people really enjoy,” she adds. There are lots of positive comments too, about Kum’s Kimchee Soft Tofu Soup.“I guess we do it a little differently from other people,” says Nacasa, “and our customers seem to like it a lot.”
Kum and her business partner, Jennifer Kim C, opened Kum Chee earlier this year. They took over a spot in the Waimalu Shopping Center on Kaahumanu Street that has both front and back restaurant space.
At lunch there’s an appetizing buffet offering kalbi, barbecue chicken, fish jun, meat jun, zucchini jun, fried chicken, fried mandoo, chicken katsu, jap chae and a dozen or so vegetable and fruit dishes. The zucchini jun is excellent - the tempura batter light, clean and crisp. “We use a Korean tempura batter instead of the regular Japanese one, and that seems to make a difference,“says Nacasa.With more than 15 years of restaurant and cooking experience, it’s easy to see that Arakawa has a talent for Korean food, and for putting her own stamp of originality on the menu.
The fried chicken is well worth tryin with its crispy, crunchy mochiko breading as batter and soft, juicy morsels inside. The lunch buffet runs from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily and costs $10.95, with a range of discounts for seniors, kids and military.
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But if you want to eat all you can of that big bone kalbi, then go for dinner when it joins the buffet along with spicy pork, an excellent shrimp tempura (same clean, light batter), sweet potato tempura, ahi poke,shrimp cocktail,cuttlefish and chicken katsu. The all-you-can-eat dinner buffet is a steal at $15.95. A word to the wise for those whose eyes are bigger than their bellies, though. Don’t waste food - you’ll be charged for excessive amounts left on the plate.
Grilled fish options are healthy and tasty too - and not found in all Korean restaurants. I loved the grilled saba that comes with two large pieces, rice and veggies for $8.95. Sanma, yellow corvina and Atka mackerel are also on the menu.
Prices range from $5.95 for fried mandoo to $13.95 for a fairly luxurious seafood stew filled with crab, shrimp, clam, squid and butterfish. Daily lunch and dinner specials vary - when I went last week the lunch special was three large, piping-hot shrimp tempura,three pieces of kalbi or two pieces of barbecue chicken all for $7.95.
And more good news on this excellent stop for Korean food is that there’s no MSG used in anything. “For a lot of people, that’s really important,” says Nacasa, “We keep the food fresh and the sauces MSG-free.”
Kum Chee Korean Buffet
98-1247 Kaahumanu St. #101, #102.
488-0315
488-0316
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Thanksgiving turkey to go at Terrace Grille
Friday - November 16, 2007
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Chances are you’re feeling one of two ways about Thanksgiving: 1) relaxed, organized and looking forward to next Thursday or 2) “What do you mean Thanksgiving is next Thursday?”
If the upcoming holiday feast has taken you a little by surprise this year, you might want to look for options other than a midnight run to your local supermarket and a partially thawed turkey.
Thankfully, the Hyatt has Thanksgiving completely under control. When it comes to cooking the perfect turkey, assembling an entire dinner-to-go, or providing a wide range of options for guests, there’s really no better place to head for a stress-free Thanksgiving.
“Our turkey-to-go promotion is always popular,” says food and beverage director Brian Loughnane. “We have many regular customers who place orders year after year.”
Hyatt originated the “turkey-togo” concept in Hawaii almost 20 years ago, and each year hundreds of families drive by to pick up a ready-made meal that includes giblet gravy, a perfectly cooked turkey, sage and chestnut stuffing, and made-from-scratch pumpkin pies.
“Our turkey-to-go hotline starts getting busy at the end of October,” says Loughnane, “but we can always manage to squeeze in some last-minute orders.”
If dining out with the family is more your style, then Terrace Grille introduces entertainment for keiki this year.
“We’ve always offered a lot of options for families,” says restaurant manager Conroy Low, “but this year we’re focusing on children.
“We figure if we take care of the kids, moms and dads are free to enjoy their holiday meal.”
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At Terrace Grille, Hyatt’s casual dining restaurant with both indoor and outdoor seating, Thanksgiving Day will be celebrated with an elaborate all-you-can-eat buffet menu, and a special buffet table for keiki.
The adult buffet features an assortment of salads including mixed greens, cucumber namasu, chicken salad and shrimp salad alongside sliced tomatoes, Maui onions and watercress, tropical fruits, fresh vegetables and dips, and a selection of cheese. Sushi offerings in the form of cone and maki sushi and ahi and tako poke are also on the buffet line. Entrees include soups, baked chicken, sauted salmon and tenderloin of beef with a sweet teriyaki glaze, roasted turkey, prime rib and roast suckling pig. There’s the usual assortment of traditional holiday side dishes, including Hyatt’s excellent giblet gravy, chestnut and sage dressing, cranberry chutney, potatoes and rice.
And while you’re filling your plates, send the keiki off to their own buffet where turkey and all the trimmings are offered alongside fresh veggies with ranch dip, mac and cheese and a build-your-own-hot dog station. Desserts include an ice cream station and mud pie with crushed Oreo cookies and gummy worms.
“We’ll also have temporary tattoo artists and balloon artists in the dining room to entertain children,” says Low.“We want our adult guests to feel that they can come and really enjoy Thanksgiving with us this year,“he says,“and one way we can help is by providing entertainment and good food for the entire family.”
Terrace Grille
Hyatt Regency Waikiki Resort and Spa
Thanksgiving Buffet Thursday Nov 22 3-9 p.m.
Free validated parking 923-1234
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A delicious culinary collaboration
Friday - November 09, 2007
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When news began to filter through last year of chefs Donato Loperfido and Philippe Padovani sharing a kitchen and collaborating on a new restaurant, Elua, local foodies held their breath - but not their comments. In fact, it seemed the only two people who didn’t have a mixed opinion of the partnership were the chefs themselves.
“We’re good friends,” says Loperfido, “and we had worked with each other before this, so we both knew that we could get along well in the kitchen.”
Padovani agrees:“It’s going very well,“he says, adding that their difficulties lie in logistical problems rather than egotistical ones.
“We’re supposed to have the same number of dishes on the menu,” says Padovani, “and that can sometimes be a problem because there are so many dishes we each want to do.”
And regular customers are proving a little more problematic than both chefs anticipated.
“They don’t want us to take anything off the menu,“says Padovani, who’s keen to rotate seasonal produce.
It’s not hard to see why regular customers turn pale at the thought of dishes like Loperfido’s Stinco di Angello Ai Porcini (braised Colorado lamb shank) or Padovani’s Terrine of Foie Gras of Duck leaving the menu, even briefly. These are dishes that can’t be found anywhere else in town.
“The foie gras recipe was taught to me by my mentor, George Achini,” says Padovani of the incredible silky smooth duck liver terrine.
And who can imitate Loperfido’s hand-made stracciatella, a soft white cheese, learned from his grandmother?
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Co-owner Keith Kiuchi is largely responsible for the fascinating wine list and for the city’s only magnum-stocked Cruvinet system, and Loperfido’s wines from Italy (he imports a line of value-priced, first-rate finds) add outstanding value.
While technically one page of the menu is Loperfido’s and the other Padovani’s, there’s a tasting menu that features dishes from both chefs, and guests may order from both.
Go for lunch and you’ll find a variety of soups, salads and light entrees including the best salad Nicoise in Honolulu. At night, expect to take your time savoring an experience where food is the highlight, wines are perfectly paired and the staff encourages you to sit awhile and enjoy the food.
“A lot of the customers feel as if they’re coming to two restaurants, getting the experience of two chefs, and yet still paying very reasonable prices,” says Padovani.
Fresh Oysters Hawaiian Mignonette ($13) is one of my favorite Padovani dishes, along with a Hawaiian Salad and Sauted Shrimp, where the use of Big Island hearts of palm, papaya and mango combine to provide color and texture as a backdrop to sweet, juicy shrimp.
From Loperfido’s side of the menu, try the simple but perfect Orecchiette Crudaliola ($16) with ripe tomatoes, imported Italian olive oil and Parmesan cheese; or his rustic Linguine Salsiccia e Funghi ($18) with Italian sausage, meaty Hamakua mushrooms, Hauula tomatoes and fresh basil. That so few ingredients can create such a memorable dish is a testament to Loperfido’s undoubted talent.
Fresh ingredients, local produce, good value and dedication is what Elua stands for, says Padovani.
And while there are those who still believe two chefs will never succeed in one kitchen, Padovani believes that he and his spirited partner share what’s important - an understanding of food.
“When you think about France and Italy,” he says,“the history of food is not too dissimilar.”
And then, with something of a wry smile he adds,“The Italians started everything, of course - and then the French went on to master it.”
Elua Restaurant and Wine Bar 1341 Kapiolani Blvd. 955-3582 Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner daily 6-11 p.m.
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Joyful dining in Kaneohe
Friday - November 02, 2007
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Whenever the owner of a restaurant tells me he buys fresh fish from our local fish auction, I’m happy to see what else is on the menu. Any restaurant owner who gets up to go to the fish auction or makes sure, at least, that there’s a catch of the day reserved for him gets my vote.
At Joyful Garden in Kaneohe, owner Tommy Hui believes in using local fish and fresh, local produce whenever he can.
“The seafood is so fresh and it tastes so good that we don’t need to do too much to bring out the flavor,” says Hui.
Joyful Garden, in Windward City Shopping Center, is bright and clean with an open, warm appeal. The room, which seats 192 people, is large enough to suffer from the sterility that many hotel ballrooms do, but Hui has avoided this for the most part by using sliding doors to make private banquet rooms and choosing neutral colors to create a warm, relaxing tone. He designed the clean, simple interior himself, traveling to China to bring back attractive glass-etched panels, and he uses linen tablecloths and napkins to give a finer dining touch.
“I think on the Windward side people are more used to eating family-style and in more casual restaurants,“he says.“I want to offer people a taste of Hong Kong-style food in a more upscale environment.”
Dim sum is a specialty here, with dishes perfectly executed by a staff that includes a highly experienced dim sum chef. Expect the pork hash to be all pork, and the crispy shrimp puffs to be as light as a feather. Seafood offerings including shrimp dumpling and half moon are superb, and the spinach and scallop dumpling is as good as any I’ve tried. And even though I’ve no sweet tooth, I was seduced by the perfect egg custard tart. Dim sum prices are between $2.10 and $2.40, with house specialties such as seafood and corn dumpling, shrimp look funn and mochi rice wrapped in lotus leaf for $3.50.
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At dinner, specialty dishes include Mongolian beef, live lobster, live crab and several excellent boneless chicken dishes.
“We also make our own Peking duck from scratch,” says Hui of the tiny, light, doughy buns and accompanying sauce. It’s obvious that the cooks at Joyful Garden are not afraid of hard work - many of the dishes on the menu are more complicated and time-consuming than in other Chinese restaurants - but it’s all part of Hui’s commitment to quality. There’s a boneless chicken dish, for example, that’s served with fresh choy sum, shiitake mushrooms and ham, covered with a thick white sauce made from chicken meat, chicken bones and vegetables and cooked for more than 12 hours.
And all dishes can be made MSG-free - you only have to ask.
“Our dishes have minimum MSG in them,” says Hui, adding that there’s always a chance that ingredients like oyster sauce contain MSG. “But anyone who wants completely MSG-free food can be sure we’ll do that for them.”
Hui says he’s always had a dream of opening his own restaurant.
“I like to eat,” he says when asked why he ventured out on his own, “but mostly I really like to see people happy when they eat good food.”
Joyful Garden
Windward City Shopping Center 45-480 Kaneohe Bay Drive 235-8228
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More than just great ribs
Friday - October 26, 2007
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Mention ribs to most people and it’s likely their first taste came either from some well-loved family recipe or at America’s first home of ribs, Tony Roma’s. And in reality, the two are pretty much the same.
In the 1970s, Tony Roma owned a neighborhood restaurant in South Florida where he began serving up his own homemade ribs and secret sauce. Word soon spread and today there are more than 200 rib restaurants around the world that bear his name. But like a beauty queen who wants to be known for her charitable works, Tony Roma’s wants the world to know that there’s more to this popular chain than those messy, meaty morsels.
“There’s a new look to Tony Roma’s,” says Hawaii manager Jerry Pastones,“and we want people to know that while we do still have the best ribs, we also do other great dishes too.”
At the Pearlridge location the changes are obvious. Gone are the dark walls and heavy brick, replaced by lighter woods, neutral colors, wooden chairs and intimate booths.
“The look is livelier at Tony Roma’s,” says Pastones. “It’s a little more energized, and there’s a sharper, smarter look to the restaurant.”
Waikiki, he admits, still basks in the glory of the 1970s.
“It’s true that this Tony Roma’s is a blast from the past,” he says of the brick walls, dark wood and intimate dining space, “but that’s one of the things that people have loved about this restaurant - the way it looks.”
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Truthfully, what people really have loved at Tony Romas for decades are the ribs, and they won’t be leaving the menu anytime soon.
“We’re always going to have ribs,” says Pastones, “it’s what people expect when they come here.”
Most of the restaurants do a thriving business in steaks, chicken and salads, and now there are new menu items to tempt diners.
“One of our most popular dishes is the new Kickin’ Shrimp,” says Pastones of deep-fried shrimp tossed in a spicy sauce. Another new item proving popular (with those presumably unencumbered by dietary restrictions) is the Grilled Chicken Spinach Stack - two grilled chicken breasts covered with a rich sauce made from four different cheeses, artichoke hearts and creamy spinach.
“It’s like spinach dip with chicken,” says Pastones. “People love it.”
While managing the Hawaii restaurants is his main job, Pastones still wanders back into the kitchen once in a while to keep his hand in.
“It makes you feel good when you prepare a nice meal for someone,” he says, adding that the restaurant puts out some great burgers and steaks. “We pride ourselves on getting the order right, so if a customer wants their burger medium-rare, that’s the way it’s going to be.”
If you’ve always ordered ribs at Tony Roma’s, you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how good the steaks and burgers are.
“We do want people to know that we have lots of other great dishes on the menu and that the atmosphere is changing,” says Pastones.
“But of course we still want them to come for the ribs.”
Tony Roma’s 1972 Kalakaua Ave. 942-2121
98-150 Kaonohi Street 487-9911
Ala Moana Express 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. 951-9900
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Got (fresh) milk?
Friday - October 19, 2007
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If you think the taste of the milk in your morning bowl of cereal has changed in recent years, don’t put it all down to your imagination or aging taste buds. With the sad closure of local dairies over the past decade, more than 90 percent of Hawaii’s milk is now imported and reprocessed. With only one Oahu dairy and three Big Island dairies in production, fresh milk is hard to find. Unless the milk you’re buying in the supermarket has an “island fresh"label,then you’re most likely drinking Mainland milk that has to be re-pasteurized once it reaches Hawaii.
Norman Romagosa represents Borden UHT Milk,and was in town last week to present the milk to buyers at the Hawaii Food and New Products Show.We caught up with him and asked a few questions about UHT milk.
Many people in the U.S. have never heard of UHT milk.Can you explain what it is?
Certainly. The milk you’re used to drinking is pasteurized at 165 degrees for 10 seconds and then put into a plastic or cardboard gable top package that is neither airtight or light-tight. The process kills only about 60 percent of bacteria, and bacteria multiply when they’re in an environment that isn’t airtight. So the milk has a shelf life of less than two weeks.
UHT milk is pasteurized at 282 degrees (that’s the ultra-high temperature we talk about) for 10 seconds and then put into an antiseptic, airtight “light-tight” cardboard box. The process kills 99 percent of bacteria and the milk won’t start spoiling until you open it.
So our regular milk has a shelf life of how long?
About 10-17 days.
From when it gets to Hawaii?
No, from when it’s pasteurized. By the time it gets to a supermarket in Hawaii it’s already used up many of its “fresh” days.
How long is UHT milk good for?
If you don’t open UHT milk, it has a shelf life of about eight months. It needs no refrigeration and will not spoil even if kept in warm conditions.If the milk is heated over 120 degrees, the shelf life will shorten to a few months and the taste may change, but it will not spoil.
After you open UHT milk, you should refrigerate it as you would regular milk.
I have to admit, I really abused the UHT milk. I left some in my car for an afternoon, I left one in the fridge and one on the kitchen counter and then I drank it all - deliberately. Incredibly, it all tasted the same.
I know. People are amazed that truly fresh milk can last this long. Parents of young children particularly like it. You can take milk to the park, take it to the beach and, if you like it warm, you don’t even have to chill it first.
I noticed the milk has an unusually creamy taste. Do you add anything to it?
No, that’s the taste of fresh milk.
How about growth hormone and antibiotics?
Our milk comes from cows that are growth hormone-free. Our packaging proclaims “rBST Free.“Not quite organic,but the next best thing.
Where can we find it?
Most supermarkets in Hawaii are carrying it right now. The milk comes as whole,low-fat regular,lowfat chocolate and skim. There are also a variety of flavored milks, that include strawberry and vanilla, packed in 8-ounce sizes.
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Asian-fusion with flair
Friday - October 12, 2007
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When Li May Tang opened her gorgeous Asian-fusion restaurant in Discovery Bay Center, she took the concept of northern Chinese and Hong Kong-style cooking and mixed the food with influences from Japan and Thailand.
In a fine-dining setting that incorporates teak furniture, imported handmade pottery, an extensive teapot collection, designer lighting and a some of the most beautiful bathrooms in town, Shanghai Bistro seems more like the kind of place you’d find Alan Wong and his fine staff, not Chinese chefs trying to change the face of ethnic dining.
But that’s exactly what Tang and her executive chef, Chih Chieh Chang, have achieved - a fine-dining setting with an exquisite Asian-fusion menu. And now the team has introduced an incredibly inexpensive way to taste some of the chef’s signature dishes.
“We’ve been running a lunch buffet for quite some time,” says Tang of the lunch that runs daily from 11 a.m. until 4:30 p.m.“Now we’re also offering a choice of entrees so people can either eat lightly or try some of the chef ‘s specials at lunchtime.”
Chef ‘s specials have always been a big part of the attraction at Shanghai Bistro. Chang is a talented chef with a passion for cooking and discovering new flavors.
“We’re not doing Pacific Rim cuisine or just Chinese food, but a fusion of a lot of different cultures and food that is suggested by our traveling,” says Tang. She travels frequently to Taiwan and Hong Kong, and takes note of food fashions around the world.
Almost all of the dishes at Shanghai Bistro will surprise you. Kung Pao Chicken, a standard on many Chinese menus, comes to the table on a steaming hot, handmade plate, and the dish is full of spice and chili pepper. Tender chicken melts in a mouth that at times is on fire. It’s Kung Pao with a kick. There’s also a beautifully delicate shrimp dish that comes with its own tiny straw. You pierce the deep-fried ball and release an aromatic steam before lifting the ball to your mouth and tasting both broth and shrimp in one bite. Chef Chang’s Special Dried Beef is a well-seasoned dish of gently marinated beef, stir-fried with green onions, carrots and celery, and his Hot and Spicy Tenderloin Steak is a welcome alternative to overcooked beef. The dish is served on a flaming platter and comes with choi sum, mushrooms, garlic and basil.
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And if you’re still not convinced that Shanghai Bistro is different, then try some Crab Meat Dip served with homemade lavosh, or Crispy Bacon Tofu Rolls dipped in soy sauce.
Not an average menu, and certainly not an average chef. For $8.95, taste a dozen or more dishes at the lunchtime all-you-caneat buffet, and for an extra $4 try one of chef ‘s daily entrees, including a vegetarian version of his spicy beef, and shrimp steaks. A weekend lunch buffet at Shanghai Bistro features additional dishes including whole seasoned crab, shrimp, fish, chicken, duck, pork, noodles, salads, dim sum and desserts - all for $15.95.
If you like Chinese food, elegant dining and want more from your dining experience than just a place to eat - you’ll love this restaurant.
Shanghai Bistro
Discovery Bay Center
955-8668
Validated Parking within center building.
Open daily 11a.m.-10 p.m.
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On a roll at Fukuya deli
Friday - October 05, 2007
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It’s easy to stop by Fukuya Delicatessen - with its famous white painted façade and deli counter full of local favorites - and be tempted by handmade mochi, fat, flavorful chow fun noodles and tender, sweet, miso butterfish. Fukuya’s has been around for almost 70 years, and nowadays that kind of a statement carries so much more weight than it used to.
The restaurant scene in Honolulu is changing so dramatically, and dozens of family-owned restaurants have closed in the past few years. Fukuya’s, along with a handful of local restaurants that have passed the 50th anniversary mark, is like a living culinary treasure, preserving food traditions that have been part of our culture for decades. Arrison Iwahiro, whose great-grandmother founded Fukuya’s, knows better than anyone how difficult it can be to keep a family business going.
“So much of it is just business today,” he says, “that it’s hard for mom-and-pop places that were just about good, home-cooked food to survive.” In the old days, Iwahiro’s great-grandmother and then his grandparents would cook in the early morning and close up shop just after lunch when everything was gone.
“They just cooked what they had and when it was gone, it was gone,” he says with a smile. Good thing, too, in a way, because back in the day, Fukuya’s wedding catering was so busy they needed everyone on board to cope with demand.
“Sometimes we’d do three weddings in a day,” remembers Iwahiro, whose first job as a small boy was making bentos and helping to deliver them. “It was a lot of work,” he says. “We had to start early in the morning, deliver all the paper goods to each place, come back and prepare the food and then get that out on time,” oftentimes catering to weddings with 500 or more guests.
Today the wedding pace has slowed down, but the catering side of Fukuya’s is as popular as ever. “We still make everything from scratch, and still have most of the same dishes on the menu,” he says. “But, of course, it’s different from when my great-grandmother ran it.”
Local mom-and-pop restaurants have to work incredibly hard to survive in today’s competitive culinary climate, and providing great service and outstanding food is one way to ensure longevity. Everyone comments on how friendly the staff is at Fukuya’s, and ask any of the regulars their favorite dish and you’re sure to hear a dozen different responses.
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Annually voted the best okazuya in Honolulu by several local publications, the clean, simple deli attracts a daily crowd of regulars and foodies tempted by the original dishes.
Soft, salty noodles, crispy fried chicken, beef teriyaki and a selection of side dishes that includes a signature potato salad make for a colorful display and an irresistible plate lunch.
Among the newer deli items (those less than 20 years old) are specialty “rolls.” Think sushi sandwiches and you’ve got the idea.
“People love them,” says Iwahiro of the hot dog, teriyaki and vegetarian rolls. The fillings are wrapped inside rice and nori, sliced and then packed in plastic containers, just like maki sushi. They sell out quickly, especially on Saturdays if there’s a UH home football game, so call ahead to order if you’re tailgating or need something tasty for a potluck.
Fukuya’s huge menu features everything from miso butterfish to shrimp tempura, potato hash, gobo, mochiko chicken, crab cakes and miso tofu, fried fish, kurome, beef teriyaki and shoyu chicken - to name just a sampling of dishes.
As part of life in Moiliili, Fukuya’s is a busy small business; as part of our culinary heritage, it’s one of those irreplaceable places we should be thankful we have.
Fukuya Delicatessen and Catering
2710 S. King St. www.fukuyadeli.com
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Brewing up great Oktoberfest feasts
Friday - September 28, 2007
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Time to get your annual fill of sausage, sauerkraut, specialty beers and oompah music as Hawaii’s annual Oktoberfest celebrations get under way. And while the premise of most events is the same, not all Oktoberfests are created equal.
When Bavarian fever hits Honolulu, you can taste elegant prix fixe meals, or get caught up in the atmosphere that only a combination of beers and chicken dancing can create. I checked out some menus and special dishes, and ate way more sausage than I should have last week, all in the quest to bring you the best beers and brats in Honolulu.
Aurelio Garcia is the executive chef at Sam Choy’s Breakfast Lunch and Crab, and he looks forward to Oktoberfest as one of the most popular food festivals of the year.
“A lot of the recipes we use are inspired by Sam’s mother’s recipes,” he says, “and our techniques for marinating and for cooking certain dishes are all based on ideas from Sam.”
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If you’re thinking of heading down to BLC this weekend, then make sure to order a beer or two to pair with your food. Brewmaster Dave Campbell has been at the Big Aloha Brewery since opening day, and his seasonal beers are a great reason to visit the microbrewery.
“We cook a lot of our dishes with our beer,” says Aurelio,“including our marinated ribs and our pork loin with garlic.”
Sausage kebobs, featuring bratwurst, knockwurst and jagdwurst (a traditional Tyrolean sausage made with veal, pork and beef) are on the German-inspired lunch and dinner menus, along with dishes like Ehu Beer Braised Short Ribs, and Sam’s German Sausage Entrée (broiled bratwurst, knockwurst and jagdwurst drizzled with a mustard vinaigrette).
Do try Sam’s German Plate (bratwurst and roast pork with gravy) if you’re feeling outrageously hungry - and check out the excellent, house-smoked salmon. It’s cured in house by Aurelio.
At The Hale Koa Hotel, German chef Rolf Walter considers Oktoberfest to be an opportunity to let people taste the food of his homeland. And while imported beers such as Spaten,Warsteiner and Kostriker are part of the attraction along with Apple Schnapps, Jaegermeister and Rumpel Mintze, the dancing and camaraderie that happens each year at Hale Koa is one of the main reasons guests return. Chef Walter begins Oktoberfest preparations threeweeks in advance of the event, and takes pride in the fact that each of his dishes, from homemade sauerkraut to mixed plates of meats and potato salad, are authentic.
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“It’s not that easy to find traditional German food in Hawaii,“he says.“So each year we try to bring people a taste of Germany here at home.“Atmosphere and music at The Hale Koa are authentic too, and Bavarian band Neil Gow and the Five Knights ensure a steady stream of dancing all night long.
If you’re looking for lots of activity, live German music and great camaraderie, then the longest-running, busiest Bavarian festival at Ala Moana Hotel’s Hibiscus Ballroom is for you. Staff wears traditional dirndls, and the Edelweiss band has been traveling to Hawaii every year since 1970 to perform at the six-day event. Food stations offer pig knuckles, giant bratwurst and traditional dishes and stay open throughout the evening. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself swept up in the atmosphere and ready for a chicken dance or two.
And finally, if you’re on a budget, like to eat late at night, or just enjoy the friendly atmosphere at Honolulu’s oldest coffee shop, then stop by Wailana Coffee House between Oct. 5 and 6 for a sampling of traditional German dishes with sides and salad bar. Specials include smoked ham shanks, bratwurst and smoked pork chops all served with sauerkraut, potato salad and red cabbage. Complete meals at Wailana start at $11.50 and include all-youcan-eat salad bar.
Prosit!
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Art, food and Kapono
Friday - September 21, 2007
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Henry Kapono provides the entertainment for the Mililani Arts and Food Festival Saturday
This weekend’s Mililani Arts and Food Festival is largely the result of organizer Steve Cole’s desire to “take things to another level.”
“We wanted to make more people aware of the festival,” says Cole of the event that was previously held on a smaller scale. Twelve participating restaurants have created dishes for Saturday evening’s event, and Hoku award-winning Henry Kapono will perform as guests enjoy food, wine and a visual arts display under the stars at Mililani Golf Course.
“Henry is very community-minded, as everyone knows,” says Cole, “so even though he’s busy, it wasn’t hard to get him to agree to participate.” Proceeds from the event go toward the planned Oahu Arts Center.
The festival should prove a pleasant evening for wine lovers, as it coincides with the opening of Fujioka’s Wine Times in Mililani Shopping Center. “This couldn’t have been better timing,” says a smiling Cole. “Fujioka’s opened last month, and they’ve been really helpful in coming forward, along with distributors, and helping us with the event.”
Kona Brewing Company’s Executive Chef Dan York and Mililani Arts and Food Festival coordinator Steve Cole
Here’s a sneak peek at some of the participating restaurants and the dishes they’ll be serving.
Tiki’s Grill and Bar
Tiki’s is located in Waikiki and offers a competitively priced menu along with locally grown produce, fresh island fish, live local entertainment and fabulous views from its vantage point overlooking Waikiki Beach. Festival featured dish will be Hawaiian steak and pineapple.
Big City Diner
There are now five Big City Diners around Oahu with the most recent opening in Pearlridge. Serving a menu that features local favorites, the restaurant has gained a reputation for great value, large portions and friendly staff. You’ll find all the UH PayPer-View games at BCD locations this year, and this weekend you’ll find its fabulous baby back ribs on the festival menu.
Bucca Di Beppo
Large portions, laughter and lots of pasta could probably sum up the mission of Bucca di Beppo. Try some of its Italian food this weekend with featured penne “rosa” pasta with chicken.
Chai’s Island Bistro
Thai chef/owner Chai Chaowasaree is a perfect choice for this festival that celebrates both fine and culinary arts. His restaurant features live local music nightly, and on the menu this weekend you can taste pan-seared jumbo black tiger prawns.
Poke Stop
Owner Elmer Guzman delighted Leeward residents when he opened his fresh fish/plate lunch stop a couple of years ago. This weekend he will serve a Chinese influenced torched ahi sashimi.
Kona Brewing Company
The locally brewed beer from KBC will be featured at the event, both in the glass and on the plate.
Executive Chef Dan York is serving New Zealand mussels in a Nehua Ale broth.
Auntie Pasto’s
With their second location in Kunia, Auntie Pasto’s is one of the most popular restaurants on the Leeward side, serving Italian-American dishes at a price everyone can afford. Rosemary pork tenderloin is on the menu at the festival this weekend.
Mililani Golf Course
If Filipino food is a favorite, then head to Mililani Golf Course restaurant where the owners serve up some of the best examples on the island. Try the deep-fried squid this weekend.
P.F. Chang’s
Mainland chain P.F. Chang’s brings its version of gourmet Chinese food to the Islands, and will feature lettuce wraps with chicken and vegetables.
Roy’s Ko Olina
Anytime you get a chance to taste the food from any of Roy Yamaguchi’s restaurants, go for it! Roy’s team will serve an example of the food that’s made them famous.
Haleiwa Eats
This country chic little restaurant on the North Shore serves up a delightful menu of Thai food.
A sampling of its menu will be featured at the festival.
Mililani Arts and Food Festival
Saturday Sept. 22, 5:30-10 p.m. Mililani Golf Course.
Tickets $50 for adults, $25 for children 12 and younger.
Call 848-7632 or go to www.oahuartscenter.org
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Twelve years of Choy at Diamond Head
Friday - September 14, 2007
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When I spoke to Sam Choy last Monday he was tailgating at the 49ers game and happy to take a moment away from the crowd to reflect on the 12th anniversary of his Diamond Head restaurant.
“It’s come around real fast,” he says laughing.
Nowadays you’re as likely to bump into Sam on the Mainland hosting charity events, doing cooking demos or “guest cheffing” with friends like Emeril Lagasse or the guys from Google.
“I’m busier than ever,” he says, “and a lot of the stuff is on the Mainland - which is always good exposure for the restaurants at home.”
Looking back on the past 12 years, the thing that makes him happiest, he says, is being able to watch families grow at Sam Choy’s.
“Watching the family grow and watching our employees develop has been the biggest thing I’ve taken from the past years,” he says reflectively. “One of our dreams for the restaurant was to be a place where people would become part of our family and grow with us - and it’s been great to see that happen.”
The Diamond Head restaurant began as a place to showcase Sam’s version of Hawaii Regional Cuisine and has become a favorite stop for kamaaina looking for great value meals as well as tourists hopeful of getting a glimpse of the famous chef.
There are a number of celebrations at the restaurant this month: a fundraising dinner, with carving stations, poke bar and passed pupu, wine and beer all for $100, along with live entertainment.
Throughout the month there are celebratory brunches, and kamaaina menus, including a Bellini Brunch Sept. 16 and 23 only. At $24.95, the brunch offers great value and some truly Choy-like brunch dishes (guava-barbecue pork ribs, miso-sake broiled chicken, oven-roasted pork with bacon gravy and lup cheong cilantro-steamed butterfish).
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And keeping up the family theme, Sam’s celebrating with kids in mind this year - son Christopher was just 10 years old when the restaurant opened, and Shrimp Christopher made its debut on the menu - and granddaughter Samantha is the inspiration for a keiki cooking class to be held at the restaurant Sept. 22 from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.
The annual fundraiser is for Ronald McDonald House, a charity that Sam and his team have supported since opening the Diamond Head restaurant.
“We all know someone, either a family friend or an employee, who at some time has had cause to use Ronald McDonald House,” says Sam. “It’s a great organization, and what most people don’t realize is that they’re responsible for their own fundraising in Hawaii, so we’re always happy to help.”
Sam Choy will be back in town for the Sept. 26 dinner, and says he wouldn’t miss it and the opportunity to celebrate with his employees for the world.
“It’s been like planting a tree, building this restaurant,” says Sam. “You plant, you water, you nourish and then you hope to see the fruits for years to come.”
Sam Choy’s Diamond Head Restaurant
449 Kapahulu Ave. 732-8645
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Alfredo Lee Cooks Up New Dishes At Sergio’s
Friday - September 07, 2007
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Chef Alfredo Lee
Sometimes the easiest way to understand what’s going on in a restaurant is to know a little about the chef. When I went to take a look at the new menu at Sergio’s last week, I was impressed by a sampling of chef Alfredo Lee’s food, but more impressed by his pedigree and the fact that he seems to have a genuine love for Hawaii, our produce and our discerning palates. And if ever a chef was suited to our melting pot, Alfredo Lee is he. Born in Tuscany to a Mexican Chinese mother, he says he felt called to Hawaii because it seemed to be a culture where he would fit. I sat down with chef over some appetizers of prosciutto de Parma with melon, ricotta cheese with roasted peppers and some splendid bruschetta rubbed with garlic and oil, topped with local heirloom tomatoes and arugula. Between mouthfuls of his newest dishes, we chatted about his love of food, salsa dancing and his life in Hawaii.
Lee’s been here for a while. He was the chef at Spada, a short-lived restaurant on Bethel Street that nevertheless gained an enthusiastic following; and he worked at Buon Amici before moving earlier this year to Sergio’s, a restaurant that has struggled these past 5 years to keep up it’s aim of serving ‘authentic’ Italian food.
Growing up in Tuscany, Lee watched his grandmother cooking and bartering produce she’d grown in exchange for wine and cheese. “We had a chestnut farm so my grandma would trade our chestnuts with other farmers at about 5 or 6 o’clock in the morning when they were setting up the market. She would trade for cheese and wine in jugs. At home she cooked all day long. I remember chestnuts with pasta and sausage and tomatoes that was wonderful,” he says.
Alfredo’s family name is Conti, but when he was 8, his mother moved the family to Mexico city and changed their name to Lee. “My mom was an artisan who painted plates in Sicily,” he says, “That’s how she met my dad. She’s Chinese Mexican so when we moved she changed our name.”
He appreciates the influence that Mexican food has had on his cooking, but admits that Italian food is his main passion. “They’re both fresh and simple styles,” he says, “but Italian comes more naturally to me.”
Chef Alfredo Lee’s panzanella at Sergio’s
Next week a series of tasting menus will debut, giving guests a sampling of dishes from Alfredo’s Italy. Baby greens tossed with walnut vinaigrette, candied walnuts, gorgonzola and grilled pears; homemade angel hair pasta tossed with extra virgin olive oil, garlic, local tomatoes and fresh mozzarella; free range chicken breast filled with ham, Fontina cheese and served with mashed potatoes are all part of a tasting menu that also includes beef tenderloin topped with gorgonzola fondue on a Tuscan grilled ciabatta, and mango sorbet with zabaglione sauce and wild berries.
There are plans for more wines by the glass, regional varietals to complement the food, and a series of menus that change often.
“ Whatever I’ve learned in my life in cooking, I want to share it,” says the Mexican-Chinese, Tuscan-born chef. “ And I feel such a connection to Hawaii that I want to share it with the people here.”
Sergio’s Italian Restaurant
Hilton Hawaiian Village
Honolulu
951 6900
Dinner served nightly from 5 – 10 p.m.
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More than just a buffet
Friday - August 24, 2007
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Last Friday morning, Ruby Watkins, Jessica Chau and Tina Au, co-owners of newly opened Imperial Chinese Restaurant in Pearlridge, were busy fussing over the buffet line.
They checked chafing dishes, adjusted serving utensils, made sure that napkins and chopsticks were plentiful, and I got the impression I was at somebody’s house waiting for dinner rather than at a Chinese restaurant for an $8.95 lunch.
Perhaps it’s because the restaurant is owned by four women (Sara Chun makes up the quartet) that it seems slightly different from many other places.
The room, with a seating capacity of about 150, is clean, bright and every detail from table to buffet station is attended to by either one of the owners or several waitresses who reposition spoons after I move them, and adjust chafing dish lids to make sure no heat escapes.
I watch as an elderly man walks to the buffet, and one of the waitresses immediately goes to help him. She describes each dish, takes his plate, asks him what he’d like and serves the food for him. He seems pleased and a little surprised that someone would cater to him at this inexpensive luncheon.
For $8.95 you don’t really expect personal service - but that’s what Imperial wants people to remember.
“To run a successful restaurant,” says Au, “it’s important to have good food and great service, but sometimes people don’t expect great service from a Chinese restaurant.”
The women are determined to change all that.
“We’re constantly reviewing how fast the food comes out, and asking people their opinion. Then we go back to the kitchen and let them know what’s going on in the restaurant.”
Among them, the ladies have a lot of experience running Chinese restaurants.
Watkins and Chun have more than 30 years’ experience - something they like people to know.
“We’ve been working in restaurants here in Hawaii for a very long time,” says Watkins, “and a lot of our customers follow us and like to know where we are. They know that they will get good food here, but that they will also experience a real family-style restaurant too.”
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The food is Hong Kong-style, with the plentiful buffet available seven days a week at lunchtime and a regular menu offered for dinner.
“Our food is mainly Hong Kong-style, as we’re all from the south,” explains Au, “and we do some dishes a little differently. Our noodles, for example are slightly browned on both sides and a little crispy - which is different for some people, but very good. And we don’t use MSG and flavorings, so our food has lots of taste but you don’t need to have a pitcher of water to drink when you leave.”
The buffet offers more than a dozen daily dishes and has rotating dishes including different types of soup, and standard favorites like beef broccoli, sweet and sour pork, rice vegetables, house noodles, cold ginger chicken, crispy chicken, pork hash and a very moist, tasty steamed fish fillet with ginger and green onion.
At $8.95 on weekdays and $10.95 on weekends, the lunch offers good value, in welcoming surroundings, with an emphasis on service.
You’ll find Imperial in the Westridge Mall on the ground floor opposite Circuit City.
Imperial Chinese Restaurant 98-150 Kaonohi St.
Aiea 484-0188
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Tossing New York-style pizza in Kahala
Friday - August 17, 2007
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In the 15 years or so I’ve been writing about restaurants, I’ve seen nothing that fires up a food frenzy more than the topic of pizza. Favor that deep-dish Chicago-style? Some consider the thick, doughy base nothing more than a cheesy casserole. Love a medium crust with a Thai or Chinese topping? Then purists may dismiss you as a Neapolitan neophyte.
Over at Antonio’s Pizzeria in Kahala, owners, cousins and pizza makers Joe Tramontino and Anthony Romano don’t really care what you think about anyone else’s pizza - they only care about their own.
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Over at Antonio’s Pizzeria in Kahala, owners, cousins and pizza makers Joe Tramontino and Anthony Romano don’t really care what you think about anyone else’s pizza - they only care about their own.
Joe is a professional wrestler who came out to Hawaii to complete his degree in electronic technology and ended up making award-winning pizza.
“I had a good friend, Tony Vuto, who owned this pizza place,” he explains, “and for about a year he wanted to move back to Florida. He kept asking me to buy the place and I kept refusing.
“But then Anthony wanted to come to Hawaii. So he sold his house and we took over the business.”
Word soon spread that there were “real” New York Pizza guys in town.
Antonio’s crust is thin, and the hand-tossed pies come in 14-inch and 18-inch sizes, with mini pizzas at a manageable 9 inches for $4. But there’s more to this Italian joint than just great pizza. Calzones, bruschetta and appetizers, salads, hoagies and Philly cheesesteaks all make up the menu. The family recipes include a killer N.Y. cheesecake and fresh cannoli.
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But while the menu at Antonio’s may be large and filling, it’s the pizza that keeps customers coming back. And you don’t have to take our word for it. Antonio’s is the only Hawaii-based pizzeria featured in Ed Levine’s food travelogue, Pizza: A Slice of Heaven (Universe Publishing, 2005, $24.95 paperback).
Book reviews or not, the way Joe and Anthony see it is, you’d better just go to test the pizza yourself.
“We get all kinds of people in here,” says Joe of the ultra-casual, order-at-the-counter store. “And they come because they like the food.”
In the pizza world, he continues, there are basically two types of customer.
“The ones who know what they want, and the indignant people you have to kick out.”
He’s grinning when he says it, but he’s telling the truth.
“Look, if people are obnoxious - and they are at times,” says Joe, “you have to ask them to leave. With pizza, people feel like they can come in and tell you how to do your job. We sell what we sell. If you don’t like it, then don’t come in.”
Surprisingly, the uncompromising approach wins over more customers than it loses.
“We’ve had people beg for forgiveness, and we even had one guy come back in wearing a disguise,” Joe says, laughing. The bottom line at Antonio’s is that their pizza delivers. “We want people to come in and to test us,” says Joe.
And for people who’ve yet to take the Antonio’s taste test, Joe has a few words of advice.
“Tell them the service sucks,” he says as I leave the store, “but that the pizza is the best they ever had.”
Hey, who am I to argue?
Antonio’s New York Pizzeria 4210 Waialae Ave.
Across from Kahala Mall 737-3333
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The Colony menu makeover
Friday - August 10, 2007
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It comes as no surprise that when the crew at the Hyatt Regency Waikiki wanted to test some of its new menu items, they took the dishes straight to the people who matter most - their customers. With more than 5,000 enthusiastic amateur tasters sampling new creations like Fusili Pasta and Chicken with Creamy Macadamia Nut Pesto Sauce, Shellfish Bisque, and White Chocolate-Dipped Oreo Cheesecake at the inaugural Flavors of Honolulu last month, it didn’t take long for “the people” to decide that the dishes were all winners. In these heady days in Waikiki, where tourists descend nightly on dozens of new restaurants, Hyatt remains committed to kamaaina with good food and a staff that delivers great service with a simple message: They care.
“We have good feedback, always from our guests,” says Jarret Dukes, manager of The Colony, the resort’s fine-dining steak and seafood restaurant.“We try to stay competitive, and to keep things lively and fresh and different enough where people want to keep coming back.”
Michael Imada is the chef at the helm of The Colony, having worked with Hyatt for more than 13 years. He’s excited about the changes to the menu.
“Probably the biggest change right now,” he says, “is that guests who haven’t been here for a while will see a lot of new menu items we’ve been working on - and they’ll also notice that our menu is now a la carte.”
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With a focus on fresh, locally grown ingredients, cut-to-order steaks grilled over kiawe wood and fresh island seafood, The Colony compares admirably to its fine-dining neighbors.
New menu items are debuting this month, and include entrées like sumptuous, sweet prosciutto-wrapped diver scallops sitting atop crispy potato pancakes ($12), and some tasty and tender Oyster Sauce Baby Back Ribbletes ($14) - mini ribs served in the restaurant’s secret sauce with a crunchy apple salad on the You’ll find more local ingredients than ever before on the menu, too, as The Colony follows the lead of more and more of our fine-dining restaurants. One of the most colorful side dishes on the menu comes as a Trio of Potato Purees ($7), a blend of sweet, russet and Peruvian varieties.
“Rather than just offering a potato with steak,” says Michael, “this is something different that looks great too.”
The Colony still offers a range of fresh island fish and steaks cut to order, and this month, a collection of new wines makes its debut at The Colony, Musashi and Ciao Mein. Canvas wines are the result of a collaboration between the Mondavi Family and acclaimed master sommelier Andrea Immer. There’s a Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay - all available at any of the Hyatt restaurants, for about $7 a glass or $30 a bottle. Rob Mondavi (son of world-famous winemaker Michael) says that it’s been an honor working with Hyatt and developing wines of a high caliber for them.
With new menu items, a host of award-winning dishes and now signature wines to pair them with, there’s never been a better time to revisit The Colony. And with a continuing commitment to local diners, there’s 15 percent off the food check for kamaaina.
The Colony, 923-1234 or go to Waikiki.hyatt.com
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Swords of all-you-can-eat grilled meats
Friday - August 03, 2007
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Looking for a way to taste an entire menu and a different culture all in one sitting? Then head to Tudo de Bom in McCully Shopping Center. It’s a Brazilian restaurant owned by Alex Viveiros, who was born and raised in Rio de Janeiro and drawn to Hawaii by the ocean. He soon realized that Honolulu - a city that welcomes buffet dining with open arms and loose belts - would be the perfect place to open a churrascaria, a Brazilian steak house. The term more accurately describes a restaurant where rodizio cooking is the style: a rotation of grilled meats brought directly to be carved at the table.
“The style originated in the south of Brazil with the gauchos (cattlemen or cowboys),” says Alex, “but today you’ll pretty much find this style of restaurant throughout Brazil.”
Tudo De Bom has a casually elegant appeal. It’s light and airy, with a pleasant, neutral décor, white tablecloths and, if you go on weekend nights, there’s a nice buzz brought about by a younger crowd - and some fabulous caipirinhas (a refreshing cocktail made with sugar cane rum and freshly squeezed lime juice).
Tudo de Bom is an all-you-can-eat destination, but that doesn’t mean you’ll spend all night traipsing between your table and the buffet. Here, passadors (waiters) come armed with a “sword” full of different meat, ready to be carved at your table. All you have to do is turn the wooden “robot” on your table from red to green and they’ll keep the meat coming.
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The salad bar offers pretty standard fare, as well as some interesting Brazilian side dishes. Make sure to try the farofa - it looks a little like finely ground cornmeal and the idea is to dip meats into the flour. It adds a little crunch, spice and texture to the food - and is especially good as a dusting over french fries.
Other traditional sides include black beans along with a couple of dishes that seem more like entrees: fish stew with coconut, beef stroganoff and pasta.
Alex says that people love the style and the casual way the restaurant works.
“People in Hawaii love to eat, and we offer a place where they can come for a nice meal, bring their families, enjoy the atmosphere - and all for a very good price,” he says.
Lunch on weekdays (where there are about nine different meat choices) is just $11.95, with dinner (where they add five or six more meat selections) costing $19.95. It’s a little pricier on the weekends, when there are more meats, including rib eye, brisket, skirt steak and fresh fish added to the extensive rodizio choices.
What I particularly liked at Tudo De Bom was the chicken. I know it sounds boring, but it seems to work really well on the skewer, and stays beautifully tender and moist.
There’s a really good potato salad too, along with sausages made from both chicken and pork.
There’s top sirloin, lamb and pork loin and on weekends, there’s a fabulous turkey wrapped with bacon. In all, a total of 14 types of meats and fish are offered.
And the best thing about Tudo De Bom is that you don’t have to rely on food writers to tell you what’s good - you can go try everything at once and decide yourself.
Tudo De Bom
McCully
Shopping Center
second level
942-0267
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A bountiful buffet and so much more
Friday - July 27, 2007
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When you think of Hausten Street, visions of tropical flora, waterfalls and a beautiful wedding chapel don’t exactly spring to mind. In fact, when out-of-town guests travel to The Willows by taxi, they often think they’ve been dropped at the wrong location.
“We get so many guests who’re on vacation, or coming here for a rehearsal dinner who’ve heard about our beautiful location - but think that the they can’t be in the right place,“says Willows’ managing director Kyle Nakayama.
Until, that is, they step inside one of Honolulu’s oldest dining destinations and are greeted by the beauty of the restaurant’s lush garden setting.
But nowadays The Willows has much more to offer than just a great ambience and lots of food - it also has the talents of one of Honolulu’s up-and-coming young chefs, Jay Matsukawa.
This is the third attempt, in a way, for Matsukawa, to make his mark at The Willows. He first took the reins as executive sous chef of The Rainbow Room (the restaurant that sits treehouse-like above the general dining area) after the restaurant had undergone extensive renovations. Next, after a brief stint away, Jay returned to open J at The Willows, a fine dining restaurant where he created gorgeous dishes like rack of lamb, braised oxtail ravioli, lemon-grass-infused bouillabaisse and a series of quite stunning desserts.
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But either the call of the buffet is too strong, or the marketing for the fine dining restaurant never quite got off the ground, as J at The Willows opens now only for private functions and events. The good news for regular Willows guests though is that Matsukawa has taken over at the culinary helm, meaning he’s in charge of catering, events and of course, the buffet.
“We offer buffet for lunch and dinner and brunch on Sundays,” says Kyle. “But Jay does specials depending on what fresh produce is available or what kind of fish we have, so you never quite know what’s going to be on the buffet.”
Standard offerings include traditional Hawaiian dishes such as lomi salmon, kalua pork, lau lau, pipikaula, poi and chicken long rice, and there are dozens of other daily offerings that include misoyaki butterfish, furikaki ahi, char siu duck and Asian-style braised short ribs. The dinner buffet offers similar dishes with rotating salads, a poke bar and a carving station that features a roasted, crispy skin suckling pig, and garlic and Hawaiian salt-crusted prime rib. But unlike most other buffets in town, you’re just as likely to find oysters Rockefeller, shrimp cocktail or fresh catch of the day laid out in a fine-dining presentation too.
“Depending on what we have, I’ll plate dishes and put them on the buffet,” says the modest Matsukawa, who surprises guests with occasional daily specials.“We know that people love to come for the buffet,” says Kyle. “But what we always wanted for The Willows was for people to think of it as a gathering place, a place where they could meet up with family and friends and kick back and enjoy the atmosphere - and the food.”
And while it’s true that the call of the buffet in Hawaii is strong, those with an interest in good food should make a note to try The Willows now that Matsukawa is in charge.
Not even the limitations of a buffet can hide the talents of a gifted chef.
The Willows Restaurant 901 Hausten St.
Honolulu 952-9200 Weekday lunch buffet $19.95 Daily Dinner Buffet $29.95 Seafood Sunday Champagne Brunch $32.95
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A surprising taste of Cuba downtown
Friday - July 20, 2007
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Here in Hawaii, we love to think of ourselves as the ultimate melting pot, but we’re not the only place in the world with an incredibly diverse food culture. Take a tour of the menu at Soul de Cuba Cafe on Bethel Street and you’ll find similar influences in many of the dishes.
“Cuban food IS fusion,” says Soul de Cuba owner Jesus Puerto with an infectious smile. “Our Cuban food culture has been influenced by immigrants from West Africa, Portugal, Spain, North Africa and China who began coming to Cuba in the mid 1800s,” he explains.
Today, Cuban food is an amalgamation of all of these influences - and there’s lots of it on display at Soul de Cuba Café.
Jesus opened the restaurant just over a year ago, and he’s been overwhelmed by the response.
“It’s been amazing, the support and response from the community,” he says of the tiny, intimate café that sits next to Brasserie Du Vin and opposite Hawaii Theater. “On weekends there are people lined up in the street waiting for a table.”
The popularity of Soul de Cuba has come largely through word of mouth.
“I think that our food has something in common with the food that local people enjoy,” says Jesus, speaking of dishes like marinated roast pork, sides
of rice and beans and an outstanding oxtail stew.
The warmth of Soul de Cuba is apparent the moment you walk in. Spice-colored walls bathed in cumin and saffron are a backdrop for photographs of Jesus’ family and his collection of cigar box labels, many dating back more than 100 years. And while you’ll find comfortably recognizable dishes in marinated roast pork, sautéed chicken, stewed oxtails at Soul de Cuba, what you won’t find is a lot of heat or overwhelming spice. “There’s a misconception that Cuban food is spicy,” says Jesus, “but it’s not at all. One of the most popular dishes on the menu is the Lechon Assada - thinly sliced roast pork marinated with mojo (a citrus-based marinade) and served with the customary black beans, white rice and plantains.
At lunch there’s an incredibly good fried catfish sandwich (again, add a little hot sauce to tease more flavor from the thick, white fish), and there’s a perfectly balanced black bean chili that works as an appetizer, entrée or shared side.
I loved the Pollo Soul de Cuba ($18) a breaded chicken breast with a salsa made from mango, black beans, guava, pineapple and rum.
Media Noche ($7) is a sumptuous, slow roasted pork with grilled onions, Swiss cheese and pickles on pressed Cuban bread with mayonnaise, or try the Cubano ($7) with baked ham, marinated pork, cheese and pickles. Seafood dishes including snapper and shrimp are offered at market price.
And if you really want to taste a dish that combines a local favorite with Cuban soul, then go for the warming, comforting Rabo Encindido ($16) - oxtails simmered in a red wine sauce.
What Soul de Cuba manages to pack into a tiny space (the restaurant seats about 40 people) is quite remarkable. Go early in the week if you don’t want to wait in line. Weekends and nights when Hawaii Theatre has a performance can be hectic.
Soul de Cuba Café
1121 Bethel St.
545-CUBA
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Late-night dining, music, comedy and magic
Friday - July 13, 2007
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The view from the 36th floor is unmatched, the ambiance romantic
You could say that Aaron’s atop the Ala Moana is going back to the future. Or at least back to its roots.
The 23-year-old restaurant (formerly Nicholas Nickolas), which underwent a $1 million renovation in 1999, also re-launched its popular supper club/late night lounge recently with dancing, entertainment and a late night menu until 2 a.m., and the lounge open until 4 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays.
Enjoy live entertainment on Fridays and rotating DJs with a cabaret show on Saturdays. (Happy Hour is from 5 to 7 p.m. seven days a week with lounge menu specials and 50 percent off cocktails.)
Also on Friday nights, enjoy a new tasting menu prepared by chef Maka, or make it an evening of stand-up laughs. Comedy Near The Moon With Augie T. at Aaron’s is at 7 p.m. (cost is $75 and includes dinner featuring a special Augie T menu and comedy show). The show runs from 9 to 10:30 p.m. The cost is $30 for show only.
The late-night lounge is popular at Aaron’s
“We’re really excited about the revival of a late-night fun crowd,” says Al Souza III, general manager.“The restaurant has had several different cycles. It went from dancing and live music to a more reasonable dining experience, and now we’re going full circle and coming back and doing again the thing we were known for for years.”
Aaron’s, located on the 36th floor of the Ala Moana Hotel with breathtaking views of Waikiki, is also known for its romantic setting. In fact, about four wedding proposals take place at the restaurant each week.
The service is first-class, with waiters dressed in tuxedos for an overall exquisite dining experience.
And Bobby Acoba, the bartender who doubles as a magician, also makes an appearance four nights a week.
Aaron’s offers a continental menu featuring fine steaks and fresh fish of Hawaii. Signature dishes include the Maui Wowie salad (a combination of Maui onions, tomatoes, shrimp, avocado and a dappling of lettuce ordered as a finely chopped dish), and the opakapaka (made Chicago style with white wine, lemon, butter, asparagus tips, bay shrimp, button mushrooms and fresh dill). Menu prices range from $27 to $65.
Aaron’s is such a special place, it averages about four marriage proposals a week
Aaron’s is one of four restaurants in the Tri-Star Restaurant Group, a three-man partnership between Jiro Noguchi (chairman), Aaron Placourakis (president) and Al Souza Jr. (executive vice president). Tri-Star’s other three fine dining establishments are Sarento’s Top of the “I” at the Ilikai Hotel, Nick’s Fishmarket at the Kealani on Maui and Sarento’s on the Beach in Wailea, Maui.
Aaron’s atop the Ala Moana Ala Moana Hotel 410 Atkinson Drive Phone: 955-4466 Hours of Operation: Monday through Thursday 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. (last reservation at 10:30 p.m.)
Friday and Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 4 a.m. (late-night menu until 2 a.m., lounge stays open until 4 a.m.)
* There is a cover charge after 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.
Dress code: Business casual
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Celebrating the cuisines of the world
Friday - July 06, 2007
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McCully Shopping Center Celebrates its Culinary Culture.
Here’s an easy way to get the full flavor of Hawaii’s diverse food culture - head to McCully Shopping Center this weekend where its Cuisines around the World celebrates the unusually diverse group of restaurants within the center.
Terri Hansen, marketing director for the center, says the festival is designed to showcase McCully’s restaurants and lead diners to a greater understanding of different foods.
Steve and Sarah Lee, owners of So Gong Dong
“We have so many really great restaurants within the center,” she says,“that this weekend we’re excited to encourage people to come down to try authentic foods.”
McCully has everything from some of the best-value Chinese food (Fook Yuen’s lobster specials are famous), to excellent Thai, Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean and even Brazilian foods.
Here’s a quick guide to dining at McCully, with highlights of some of the restaurants’ signature dishes.
So Gong Dong
Bi Bim Bap at So Gong Dong
Arguably the best Korean food in Honolulu, So Gong Dong has an avid following of regulars who go there for the signature soondubu (beef and pork soup). “About 70 percent of our customers come for the soup,” says owner Steve Lee, who opened So Gong Dong (originally on Kapiolani) more than 12 years ago. Dine teppanyaki style, or choose
from a menu that features dishes like flavorful spiced chicken, kalbi and seafood pancakes. Service is speedy, dishes come to the table piping hot and the side dishes that accompany each order are plentiful and interesting. All of the recipes are original - created by Lee over the course of 30 years in the restaurant industry. The soondubu has many imitators - but his is hard to beat.
Daily 10 a.m.-11:30 p.m. 946-8206
Bistro A Un.
If you’re a devotee of the kind of Japanese fusion dishes that have, in the past few years, invaded our dining scene (think Shokudo, Momomo, Restaurant Kai) then you’ll be delighted to discover Bistro A Un. Located on the shopping center’s ground floor, with the interior hidden by what appears to be a shower curtain (OK, I’m sure it’s not - but that’s what it looks like), this unpretentious Japanese restaurant offers great food, friendly, enthusiastic service and creative dishes that appeal to both local tastes (the tonkatsu is a contender for the best of its kind in Honolulu) and those with a more adventurous palate - natto topped with squid, tofu skin rolls and the now ubiquitous fried cheese. There’s a fabulous ahi tartar and plenty of small plates that go perfectly with pau hana cold beer and good friends.
Open for dinner only, this gloriously off-the-beaten-track restaurant is one of those finds that all foodies should mark on their culinary map of the city. Don’t be put off by the dark doors and the curtain - head on in. You’ll be delighted.
Daily, 6 p.m.-2 a.m. 947-4914
Curry House Coco Ichibanya. One of a chain of more than 800 curry houses in Japan, Coco Ichibanya has a steady following of locals hungry for a taste of true Japanese curry, and tourists who recognize the chain as being one of the best. Don’t go expecting the more intricate flavors of Indian or South East Asian curries - there are more sauces here, no coconut milk and lots of gravy on top each bowl, but do go if you love the taste of authentic Japanese curry. There are dozens of different toppings on an extensive menu - just choose your curry and start adding ingredients. If the formula reminds you of ordering pizza - then you’ll be pleased (or surprised) to note that cheese is one of the most popular curry toppings!
Great value, friendly staff, casual atmosphere - and lots of rice!
Daily, 11 a.m.-midnight
949-4950 Fook Yuen Chinese Seafood Restaurant.
Who hasn’t been to Fook Yuen in the wee small hours of the morning, when everywhere else is closed and your craving for lobster or rice soup needs to be satisfied? It’s the haunt of many an island chef, and a place where many in the restaurant industry head after a hard night at work. The $9.99 live Maine lobster remains one of the greatest deals of all time, and there’s a wide selection of Dungeness crab, fresh fish, scallops, shrimp, oysters, jellyfish and cuttlefish. Of course you can go for lunch (there’s an all-you-caneat-buffet daily for just $7.95), but there’s something fabulous about lobster at Fook Yuen when almost everywhere else is closed.
Daily, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; 5:30 p.m.-3 am.
973-0168
Phuket Thai
With a menu that features most Thai staples - spring rolls, stuffed chicken wings, lemon-grass soup, tom yum, green papaya salad and a variety of red, green or yellow curries - Phuket Thai has built a reputation for serving the finest Thai food. Consistency is what’s most impressive about the restaurant - along with the fact that most dishes are boldly flavored with traditional Thai ingredients such as lemon grass, chili peppers, ginger and coconut. Heat levels ascend according to your own tolerance level - but you might want to order the green papaya salad mild, as some days it can be incredibly hot.
And yes, they do take reservations. I was seriously reprimanded by a reader a couple of years ago when I wrote that the only thing I disliked about this gem of a restaurant was waiting in line.“Pay attention - and make a reservation"came his curt response to my article. So nowadays I make reservations, and wonder why so many other people wait in line outside!
Daily, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. 942-8194
Regal Diner
Plate lunches rule here. Regal has been open for almost 15 years, specializing in local-style plate lunches, with great pricing and a hugely diverse menu. Rib eye or N.Y. steak plates ($7.50) come with two scoops rice and one scoop mac salad and you can add a green salad for just 29 cents extra. Regal has everything you’d expect to find in a plate lunch place. Meat jun, ($6.95) beef stew (3.95), garlic shrimp, ($7.50) mixed barbecue plates ($7.50), Chinese chicken salad ($4.50) saimin ($4.95) and naturally a loco moco plate ($6.25). There’s a vast catering menu too, for anyone who wants local food without having to cook.
Monday-Saturday 7a.m.-11 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m.-10 p.m.
941-3883
Tudo De Bom
It means “all that’s good” and regulars have no reason the question the naming of this Brazilian restaurant. With “rodizio” service (meats are grilled on large skewers and then carved at table until diners beg servers to stop) and an all-you-can-eat salad bar, Tudo De Bom is the perfect stop for anyone who loves to eat - or anyone still following the Atkins way of life. A wooden marker placed on each table communicates to servers how much attention you need (green side up -keep the meats coming; red side up - please, no more) and there are a variety of tender, juicy meats to choose from in this fairly traditional churrasco. Make sure to try the fabulous grilled chicken - it really is the bomb!
Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m.-2 a.m.
Dinner daily 5-10 p.m.
Lunch daily 11 a.m.-2 p.m. 942-0267
Viet Café
Simple, fresh, fast and flavorful are all trademarks of Viet Café. With a steady late-night crowd - especially on weekends - Viet Café offers some fabulous dishes. Regulars rave about the pho, the sugar cane shrimp and the abundance of fresh basil, bean sprouts, mint and lemon grass in accompanying side dishes. The restaurant is casual - and prices reflect the lack of pomp and circumstance. Staff is super friendly and service is fast.
Daily, 10 a.m.- midnight 949-8268
Yotteko-ya
If ramen is your thing, then head here. The house soup is simmered for 10 hours, according to the restaurant menu. A thick stock made from vegetables, chickens, pork and spices, the resulting broth provides a hearty background for a variety of noodles and additional ingredients.
Flavorful gohan, and okazu items like gyoza and ebi are popular too. The Yotteko-ya menu states that the intensely flavored soups will aid longevity; certainly they’ll make you feel warmer and happier.
Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
946-2900
Taco Bell
If you need a description of Taco Bell, then you’re probably visiting from another planet. One of the attractions of this busy spot is that the drive-thru is open until 5 a.m. - perfect for when those late night munchies come calling.
Daily, 10 a.m.-1 a.m. Drive-thru open 9 a.m.- 5a.m. 947-9595
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Food, fireworks and the Fourth of July
Friday - June 29, 2007
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Fireworks and Fourth of July celebrations might be fun, but they’re a whole lot better when accompanied by some great food and a glass of wine or an ice-cold beer. We’ve found some of the best places to view the displays and enjoy some good grinds at the same time. Here’s our quick guide to food for the Fourth.
Mary Ann Bowman, Charlie Longhi and Corey Hanna at Longhi’s
Longhi’s
If you really have something to celebrate this holiday, head on over to Longhi’s at Ala Moana Center. There’s no doubt the restaurant has one of the most spectacular firework vantage points in the city - and it also has an elegant set menu that ought to make the evening memorable. The set four-course menu is not for those who want a casual view of the fireworks along with a cold beer - rather it’s a menu featuring some of the restaurant’s best dishes. Included for the $65 set price are a choice of salads (The Longhi Salad is a tasty creation of romaine, fresh island-grown tomatoes, Maui onions, green and white beans and gorgonzola cheese), and a choice of seafood entrees that include Prawns Venice (large prawns sautéed in garlic white wine and butter), and opakapaka. And then there’s a choice of main entrée; included are Chicken Marsala, Petit Filet Mignon and Lamb Chops with a Raspberry Mint Sauce. Desserts include the to-die-for chocolate soufflé with vanilla bean ice cream.
This is pretty much the place to go if you want a festive experience that’s a little on the luxurious side - but the food is excellent, the wine list award-winning and you just can’t beat the view.
If you don’t want to splurge on a set dinner, Longhi’s will serve their regular dinner menu from 4 to 6:15 p.m.
For reservations and more information:
Longhi’s Restaurant Ala Moana Center 947-9899
Owner Li May Tang and Chef Chih Chieh Chang of Hong Kong Harbor
View Restaurant
Hong Kong Harbor View
This Chinese restaurant specializes in seafood and has a spectacular view of the harbor at Aloha Tower. So it makes sense that it’s a prime pick for Tuesday night festivities.
Beginning in July, there’s a special fixed price 10-course menu, featuring some of the dishes that have made Chef Chih Chieh Chang one of the most respected and creative Chinese chefs in town. For $228, a party of 10 will enjoy dishes that include Chinese chicken salad, seafood pumpkin soup, live Dungeness crab, baked whole chicken with oolong tea, Peking duck and chef’s signature Flaming Tenderloin with Black Pepper Sauce. Shrimp cakes, king crab legs and pan-fried noodles accompany the dishes along with vegetables and dessert.
Best to make a reservation for one of the many window seats so you can enjoy the festivities from the comfort of your table.
Fireworks at Aloha Tower Marketplace go off at 9 p.m.
Hong Kong Harbor View Seafood Restaurant
Aloha Tower Marketplace 566-9989 Validated Parking
Chart House
Even if you don’t get a great view of the fireworks, the sunset over the marina and cocktails at the bar are such festive events in themselves that you’ll find yourself in celebratory mood as soon as you step into this, one of Honolulu’s favorite restaurants. This month there’s a special “buy one get one free"offer, where every entrée ordered may be accompanied by a free entrée from the dinner menu. Guests have to order by 5:30 p.m. and the special runs Sundays through Wednesdays.
In addition to a menu that features fresh island fish, steaks and lobster, Chart House has an enormous pupu menu that features 80 items - most of them so popular that not one can be removed from the menu without loud complaints from regulars. Try the outstanding Kimi’s Firecracker Unroll, stuffed mushrooms, steak pupu, or finest grade ahi sashimi to understand why Chart House keeps regulars coming back for more.
Chart House 1765 Ala Moana Blvd No.2 941-6669
Chef Jimmy Dela Cruz and Perkin Lee at Don Ho’s Island Grill
Don Ho’s Island Grill.
Here’s an easy way to enjoy reserved seating at the firework show at Aloha Tower: Make a dinner reservation at Don Ho’s where the oceanfront setting is the perfect place to view the July 4 spectacular.
There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet being served on Tuesday (July 3), and for $25 (including tax and tip) guests can enjoy a buffet spread that includes some all-American favorites. Hot dogs, hamburgers, baked ham with lilikoi glaze, fried chicken strips, chili, Island-style baked beans, corn on the cob, mashed potatoes, coleslaw and potato salad are among the dishes offered.
Enjoy a filling buffet while knowing you’ve got the best seat in the house to view the show.
Buffet is served from 7 to 9 p.m.
Fireworks begin at 9 p.m. Don Ho’s Island Grill Ground Floor Aloha Tower Marketplace 528-0807 Validated Parking
Tower Grill
Upstairs, sister restaurant Tower Grill has oceanfront seating too - and a welcoming, Hawaiianathemed bar where drinks and pupu are served.
There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet that includes prime rib, sautéed fresh island fish, baked chicken, potato salad, greens, fruit platters and dessert; cost is $30 per person.
Tower Grill is also beginning a special three-course set menu in July, where $21 entrees include an 8-ounce Pulehu ribeye steak with shrimp, flame-broiled garlic flat iron steak with grilled shrimp and scallops and one of the restaurant’s signature dishes - made famous at The Trattoria - Slavonic Steak.
All entrees come with au gratin potatoes and veggies.
For more information on both the buffet and the summer menu:
Tower Grill Second Floor Aloha Tower Marketplace 537-4446
Bali By The Sea Chef Adam Hightower
Bali By The Sea
If you happen to be looking for a fine dining restaurant to celebrate this year’s Fourth of July festivities, then Bali By The Sea, Hilton Hawaiian Village’s beachside restaurant, has a menu of fresh, local produce creatively constructed by chef prodigy Adam Hightower. Signature entrees include Sautéed Island Opakapaka crusted with Macadamia Nuts and Cilantro and Kaffir Lime Sauce, and Roast Rack of Sonoma Lamb with Orange Hoisin Glaze. Hightower relishes the challenge of creating dishes for guests with special needs - just ask for him when you get to the dining room if you’d like him to create something extra special!
This month there’s a kama’aina special that gives a 15 percent discount off the entire food bill - and includes the restaurant’s famous Chocolate Diamond Head dessert, complete with fresh fruit and dry ice “volcanic” eruptions.
Bali By The Sea Hilton Hawaiian Village 941-2254
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Throwing a Wahoo’s taco party
Friday - June 22, 2007
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Next time you have friends coming over for a pool party or a casual weekend dinner and you just can’t think what to make, picture this: a taco bar filled with fresh lettuce and tomatoes, soft flour tortillas, grilled chicken, fish and steak and a colorful array of side dishes that include guacamole, black beans, salsa and sour cream. Your guests make their own tacos and then compliment you on a fabulous meal.
Except you didn’t have to do a thing.
Wahoo’s Fish Taco have been doing a roaring business since starting its catering division earlier this year, with one of the most popular orders-to-go being the taco bar.
“People love it,” says Wahoo’s owner Stephanie Pietsch. “We load you up with trays of fresh chicken and meats, chips, salsa, guacamole, beans and rice, and then we fill a cooler with hot tortillas. Our customers simply take everything home and then put it into their own dishes.”
If you’re not familiar with Wahoo’s (the franchise was brought here early last year by Pietsch siblings Stephanie, Noel and Mike), the restaurant serves a colorful mix of food inspired by Mexican/Brazilian and Asian flavors, served in a surf, sun and casually fun environment.
“It’s not exactly fast food,” says Stephanie,“because we make everything to order. But it’s fresh and quick, and our service is good.”
And if you love the idea of Wahoo’s, but aren’t in the Ward area often, then there’s more good news - a Wahoo’s lunch wagon on the road.“The idea for a lunch wagon grew from the fact that we wanted to expand,” says Noel.“The lunch wagon seemed like a perfect way to get our food out to different areas of the island.”
The Wahoo lunch wagon should be in operation within the next two weeks - look for it first in the Kailua area.
Trying Wahoo’s for the first time? Then go for the No. 2 combo: tacos or enchiladas filled with anything from blackened or flame-broiled fish to sautéed teriyaki vegetables, grilled chicken, sautéed shrimp, marinated steak or pot-braised pork. The combo plate comes with ahee rice (Wahoo’s signature rice) and a choice of black beans or spicy Cajun style white beans.
“Our No. 5 combo platter is a huge favorite with guys,” says Stephanie of the taco or enchilada (with any filling) and three taquitos with rice and beans for $9.75.
So, next time you’re looking for something different for an office lunch, birthday party or fun,“Our menu is full of really healthy food, so it’s perfect for busy families, for family gatherings - and kids love our food.”
Wahoo’s Fish Taco
940 Auahi St.
Honolulu, HI 96814 591-1646
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An upbeat, fun atmosphere at Shokudo
Friday - June 08, 2007
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Freshly made tofu ($6.95) comes with nori, salt, green onion and Shokudo
sauce
Finding somewhere to eat Japanese food in Honolulu is as easy as finding a hot dog at the ballpark. And perhaps because of that, Japanese food, Hawaii-style, comes in numerous forms.
Shokudo blends a menu of fairly traditional dishes like Chanko Nabe,Agedashi Tofu and sushi,with dishes designed to appeal to the local palate: Oxtail Ramen ($8.95), Pork Cutlet Curry ($9.95) and Sukiyaki Beef Bibimbap ($9.95) are just a few of the dishes on the restaurant’s eclectic menu. Add a lively atmosphere, state-of-theart décor by one of Japan’s most-respected designers, and a staff that loves to come to work, and you’ve an idea of the restaurant’s appeal.
“It’s pretty upbeat!” says manager Geraldine Jordan.
Diners at Shokudo are as diverse as the menu items, and the ambience of the restaurant changes throughout the day.
“In the morning and for late lunch we see pretty much an older crowd, and a good section of the business community,” says Geraldine, “along with some tourists. Then early evening we see a lot of families who dine with their kids. As the evening gets later, we see young people who come late at night to eat.”
Operations manager Samson Eligio says that the upbeat, fun atmosphere is something the management team wanted right from the start. Eligio’s originally from Guam, and he first met up with Shokudo owners when he was working at TGIF’s Guam location.
“The idea behind Shokudo was originally to have a place where people could enjoy Japanese food, but with the same kind of fun atmosphere as restaurants like TGIF,” he says.
Takaaki Fujii, Kellyn Higa, Justin Mizufuka, Geraldine Jordan and Samson Eligio at Shokudo
New menu items this month include Spicy Tuna Summer Roll ($8.95), and a Tuna Tataki Salad ($12.95), which offers generous helpings of sliced, seared tuna over greens.
“Our seasonal menus are a great way of finding out which dishes are going to be big enough sellers to make it to the main menu,” says Eligio.
One that might be headed that way is the Sushi Pizza ($13.95). Slightly crisped rice is topped with an assortment of seafood and jalapeno peppers (think flat California roll without the nori), making it one of those “I’ll-just-have-one-more-bite” entrees.
Go for the Unagi Rice, if like me you’re a fan of lightly grilled eel with its accompanying teriyaki-like sauce. At $9.95, Shokudo’s Unagi Rice is enough to feed several people, and it comes in one of the restaurant’s trademark hot stone bowls.
“The ishiyaki entrees are something that almost everyone loves,” says manager Justin Mizufuka.“The dishes all come with rice, and they’re mixed by servers at the table so you get crisp, slightly browned fried rice on the bottom of the bowl mixed into the rest of the dish.”
Eating family-style here can turn into a fun experience, and because portion sizes are on the large side, you can share fewer entrees than at other, pricier restaurants.
“Most people want to eat family-style, ” says manager Kellyn Higa,“and because the dishes are so attractive and colorful, it makes it fun for them to share.”
If you’re eating Japanese food to keep it on the light and healthy side, you might want to avoid the restaurant’s signature dessert - mammoth honey toasts, where 3-inch-thick slices of fresh, white bread are hollowed out and filled with ice cream and drizzled with honey and flavorings. Or if you do decide to take the plunge,make sure you do it Shokudo style - and share.
Shokudo Ala Moana Pacific Center, Ground Floor,1585 Kapiolani Blvd.
Validated parking entrance on Kona Street, behind the restaurant.
Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 1:00 a.m.; last call at midnight
Friday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 a.m.; last call at 1:00 a.m., 941-3701. Reservations not required, but recommended.
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Simple and sophisticated Indian food
Friday - June 01, 2007
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Lani Kai owners Esther and James Choudhary
The culinary gods have smiled kindly in recent months.After years of pining for my favorite food - fragrant, subtly spiced Indian dishes - not one, but two Indian restaurants have opened in Honolulu. But don’t expect to find the same experience at both places. One offers homestyle cooking in a former Japanese bar, with a late-night menu and flat screen TVs. The other offers sophisticated, multi-layered dishes in a warm, neighborhood bistro-style setting.
Lani Kai Bar and Grill
The buffet lunch at Lani Kai showcases the kind of food owner James Choudhary grew up eating.
“One of the reasons I wanted to open this restaurant is that over the years, so many people have told us how much they enjoy my mom’s cooking.”
Step into Lani Kai’s kitchen and you’ll find Esther Choudhary at work preparing a buffet that features up to 10 different dishes. Esther was born in Pakistan, and while she’s flattered that people like her food so much, she’s also anxious to point out that this is truly home cooking - and not anything fancy.
“This is exactly the food that you’d get if you came to our house for dinner,” she says of the chicken curry, lamb curry and simple vegetable side dishes.“We feature lots of sauces because we use rice in our cooking, so we don’t want any of the other dishes to be too dry.”
It’s no coincidence that James’ favorite food is a loco moco.
“To tell you the truth, I’m kind of addicted,” he says of the ubiquitous rice, gravy, meat combination, and he admits to being able to eat more than one plate at a sitting. In fact he sees his love of local food as the beginning of a new dish - an Indian loco moco.“I’ve always wanted to do that,” says the Honolulu-born James. If you’re a fan of plate lunches, like spicy foods and love to pile it on, you’ll love Lani Kai’s lunch buffet with its chicken, lamb, rice, lentils, veggies, bread and desserts. And vegetarians know that Indian food has long been high on the list of desirable meatless meals.
Bombay owner Ashwani Ahuja
You’ll find the buffet at Lani Kai served Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. It’s $12.95 (look for coupons and fliers offering 20 percent off). Children under 6 eat free.
Lani Kai Bar And Grill
1631 Kapiolani Blvd.
(Across from the Pan Am Building)
Free parking
Bombay Indian Restaurant
If your only taste of Indian food has been in Hawaii, then Bombay will completely alter your thinking about the levels that this fine cuisine can reach. Bombay is a stylish, interesting, sophisticated restaurant, with a menu to match.
Owner Ashwani Ahuja has been in the restaurant business for 30 years, leaving a successful restaurant in Washington to come to Honolulu. But he noticed something missing on the local food scene when he came to Hawaii on vacation. He hoped, when he opened Bombay late last year, that his approach to Indian flavors would win over new diners.Where you’ll see an obvious difference between the two restaurants is in the levels of spice. At Lani Kai, there’s heat in almost every dish, but at Bombay, most dishes are mild, with layers of spices built on top of one another. You can easily ask them to step up the heat. Food from Northern India is traditionally mild enough to allow the flavors of each spice to be noticed, and many of the dishes rely on marinades and a blend of spices that include cumin, coriander, turmeric, ginger and garlic to flavor each dish. It’s beautifully fragrant food - and Bombay’s is as fine an example as you’ll find.
If you’re going for the first time, try the fabulous Chicken Tikka Masala - one of the most popular dishes in the world. With layers of rich tomato/yogurt sauce and gentle flavors of cumin, coriander, ginger detectable, it’s a perfect introduction to world of palate-changing Indian food. There’s an eggplant dish that’s done as well at Bombay as anyplace I’ve ever eaten - Baingan Bhartha - and any of the tandori specials are sure to please. Make sure to try a selection of side dishes like raita, chutney and the mouth-puckering lime pickle, along with naan breads or Bombay’s version of an Indian focaccia bread - everything on the menu brings another level of complexity to the table.
Bombay Discovery Bay Center 1778 Ala Moana Blvd. 942-3990 Free validated parking at Discovery Bay
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Wine parties with a view at Longhi’s
Friday - May 25, 2007
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Longhi’s manager Mary Ann Bowman
I liked Longhi’s at Ala Moana Center the moment I stepped out of the elevator and onto that famous black-and-white floor. My first trip there was four years ago, about a week before the restaurant was due to open, and, as I chatted with owner Bob Longhi I watched a steady stream of locally grown fruits and vegetables being carried into the kitchen.
Today, the restaurant has won awards for its impressive wine list and Mediterranean-inspired menu, and it has become a popular place for lunch, pau hana cocktails, live music, wine parties and dinner.
But perhaps my favorite time at Longhi’s is at breakfast, when the sun is warming up Ala Moana Beach Park and the smell of freshly baked bread and pastries weaves from the kitchen and fills the second-floor dining room.
Breakfast at Longhi’s was once a fairly quiet affair.You could enjoy freshly made eggs Benedict, freshly squeezed orange juice, homemade waffles and pancakes in a relaxing atmosphere overlooking the ocean. Nothing’s changed really - except the number of people who’ve discovered how good it is.
“Regular customers always told us that they didn’t want the secret to get out,“says manager Mary Ann Bowman of the popular breakfast menu that includes lobster Benedict, fluffy waffles with fresh fruit, and perfect eggs done in almost any style.
Longhi’s Mediterranean-inspired menu includes everything from pasta
specials to fresh island fish — and asparagus
You probably should know before you go that Longhi’s is not inexpensive, but whether you’re there for an early morning meeting, lunch with a friend or pau hana cocktails, you’ll see that there’s quality in everything that’s served. A Mediterranean-inspired menu at heart, Longhi’s serves everything from pasta specials to fresh island fish, grilled steaks, shrimp, lobster, a variety of seafood dishes, lamb and chicken, as well as a variety of salads and great desserts.
But perhaps the best way to get acquainted with the restaurant - if you haven’t already been - is to go to one of the wine parties. Other restaurants call them wine tastings or dinner; Longhi’s just throws a party. For just $25, guests enjoy a flight of wines (with usually a complimentary glass of sparkling wine) as they listen to the music of the Honolulu String Quartet.
They always sell out, and as Bowman says, “The wine parties are fun and a great way to meet new people and discover some new wines.“Coming up June 5, the wine tasting will explore the grape varietal, Syrah.“We’re calling it Que Sera Syrah,” says Mary Ann. “Guests can enjoy an appetizer platter as well as the wines, and some classical music.”
If you don’t make the party, then catch James Kraft on Wednesdays and Thursdays through the summer, or check out any of the live weekend bands that play late night.
Longhi’s 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. Suite 3001 947-9899
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Celebrating 30 years of great steaks at Hy’s
Friday - May 18, 2007
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At Hy’s they cook over kiawe coals
Honolulu has in recent years become the town of the steak house. We Honolulans are notorious for falling head over heels in love with new restaurants, and so we have with a succession of new steak joints. Who could blame us? But who’d have thought even a couple of years ago that we’d be having lively discussions about the relative merits of dry-aging versus wet-aging of prime cuts of beef? Here we caveman carnivores are, though, doing just that, newly and happily educated in the ways of molecular change over time, under controlled conditions, in a T-bone.
Having enjoyed the fare of our various new steak houses, and been so educated, it was a pleasure to go back on a recent evening to our town’s original great steak house - Hy’s, which this year celebrates its 30th anniversary.
It was in a sense going back in time, but also back to the one eternal truth of meat: Aging, schmaging - in the end it all comes down to the quality of the cut and what you do with it.
At Hy’s, now as ever, they cook over kiawe coals, a dancing orange flame nipping at some of the finest protein on earth. While you’ll never catch me criticizing hickory or oak or guava or any of other various woods that we humans discovered long, long ago are good for grilling, kiawe is king. Called mesquite in Texas, Hawaiian kiawe imparts a gentle smokiness that does not overpower meat, and certainly enhances even the very best cuts - as I discovered with a huge rack of lamb, and my dining companion with a petite filet mignon.
Thinking about it now, looking at my juice-stained notes, writing these words, the mouth begins to water all over again. Mm-mmm ...
But that’s getting ahead of the appetizers, among other things.
Located near the diamondhead end of Kuhio Avenue, an easy in and out of Waikiki via Kapahulu, Hy’s is the same wood-paneled parlor you remember. The ambiance is English manor, but warmer, the walls decorated with historic prints of pastoral scenes, heroic battles and notable personages. There’s seating for 150, but because the restaurant is really a combination of nooks and corners, the feeling is much more intimate. Which is a good thing, whether dinner is of the romantic, business, special occasion or catch-up-with-friends variety. The nooks include the Green Room, where the décor is classic art deco, a cool space for private parties.
Hy’s herb-crusted lamb ribs
And near the bar, Audy Kimura plays guitar and sings mellow tunes charmingly, as he’s been doing for 20 years. As far as I can tell, that is the longest-running gig for any entertainer in Waikiki - SOS at the Outrigger not counting because of the changing cast of characters. Audy, as much as the fare, is a big reason so much of Hy’s business comes from repeat customers. They include a fair number of celebs. A few nights before my visit, basketball legend Magic Johnson was in and cheerfully posed for photos with staffers.
And because so many of those employees have been there “forever,” there is a comfortable familiarity. They include Chef Danny Florino, who on this night stands inside the glass-enclosed grilling chamber, Hawaii’s original “performance kitchen.” Despite staying busy tossing fresh chunks of kiawe into the fire and raw chunks of meat onto the grill, he never seems hurried. Long-timers include our waiter Mark Nezu, a bright and personable Iolani alum who started as a busboy and now makes, according to Audy, “the best Caesar salad in Hawaii.” We’ll see about that.
Although we’ve come for cooked meat, we begin with raw - the Tartare Trio. It’s three neat cylinders of filet mignon, ahi and salmon, served with crostini ($19.95). The lox-like salmon is prepared with capers and finely julienned bell peppers; ahi with Maui onion and an orange-soy reduction sauce, and the finely mushed filet mignon with capers, tomato remoulade and a hint of Dijon mustard. Saving room, we pass on yummy-sounding appetizers such as escargot a la Hy’s ($12.50), Thai-style scallops charred over kiawe ($11.95) and coconut-crusted soft-shell crab ($15.95).
The “lost art of the Caesar salad,” I’m pleased to report, is alive and well at Hy’s - with tableside preparation, the romaine leaves wrapped in a cotton cloth to absorb excess moisture and keep them fresh. “I stick pretty close to the original Caesar recipe,” Mark says. When we ask for extra garlic, he says “That’s fairly a common request.” A touch unique to Hy’s: a quick twist of pepper on the chilled plate before placing the leaves. Audy is right, this is the best Caesar salad I’ve tasted in years, and at $10.95 per person well worth it. A member of the Maloof family, which owns the NBA’s Sacramento Kings and much of Las Vegas, calls it the best Caesar in the world. Other salads on the menu include tomato, onions and bleu cheese ($9.95) and Thai beef ($8).
And now the main event, er, course. The herb-encrusted rack of lamb ($45.95) is impressive, nine ribs, nearly two fingers thick the way Mark cuts them. Lamb is one of my favorites, a barometer of sorts, and this is as good as it gets, maybe better. It is served with a variety of starch options - I go for garlic mashed potatoes - and braised green beans.
My friend’s 7-ounce filet mignon ($36.95, $41.95 for the 11-ouncer) is an inch-and-a-half thick, beautifully medium rare. We trade bites and, again, this is as good as steak gets.
The wine list is excellent, earning a Wine Spectator award of excellence, and we washed down our meaty morsels with Kings Ridge pinot noir from Oregon, lightly colored and nicely nosey.
Hy’s is one of the rare places to serve a Delmonico steak, a ribeeye without the rib ($35.95 for 12 ounces, $41.95 for 16). The most impressive cut is the veal chop, at least two inches thick ($37.95) - unless it’s the 15-ounce prime rib ($34.95, $26.95 for 10).
The menu also includes a variety of seafood and pasta dishes.
The lost art of the tableside flambé is also thriving at Hy’s. Choices include Bananas Foster, Cherries Jubilee and a magnificent chocolate concoction. We opt for a Hy’s specialty, Sinatra’s Strawberry Flambe, served over a big scoop of Haagen-Dazs vanilla ($12.95, as are the other flaming desserts).
That’s a lot of food, and we leave with doggie bags. Here’s how good Hy’s is: The next day, those lamb ribs are really good straight out of the refrigerator.
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An authentic taste of Mexico at Quintero’s
Friday - May 11, 2007
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Fresh fish, salads and vegetables are all
featured on the menu at Quintero’s
Maria Quintero has been on a mission for more than 20 years. But you’ve probably not seen her much, or heard her speak. That’s because she’s spent the better part of the past two decades in the kitchen at Quintero’s, the Mexican restaurant she owns with her husband, Luis, trying to educate diners about the true flavors of Mexican food.
Maria and Luis came to Honolulu from Michoacan on their honeymoon and fell in love with the beauty of the Islands.
“We wanted to stay, and my family had always run restaurants,” says Maria, “so we opened a small restaurant and we’re still here 20 years later.”
Today Quintero’s has a regular following of diners who love the home-cooked food and the casual environment. In the early days, though, it wasn’t always easy to convince people that what they were eating, was indeed Mexican food.
“People in Hawaii who had never been to Mexico, they would tell me that the food wasn’t authentic. Some of their ideas of what Mexican food should be were based on Taco Bell and other kinds of restaurants,” she says with a wry smile. Maria let her food speak for itself.
“I would tell people, please just try the beans, if you don’t like them then I’ll make rice - and nobody ever wanted the rice, because they loved the beans!”
The kind of food Quintero’s serves is the kind of food you’d taste if you went to visit Maria’s family in Michoacan, with everything made from scratch.
“You won’t find a single can in this kitchen,” she says proudly, and recalls the story of a cook who applied to work at the restaurant.
“He asked me where the canned chicken broth was, and I told him there was none - we had to make it. Then he asked me where to find canned tomatoes and I told him the same thing - that we only use fresh. He was very surprised.”
He also didn’t stay long. Since then, Maria’s not given up control of the kitchen to anyone.
“I’m here every day, and I make everything,” she says.
You’ll find American-Mexican favorites like tacos and enchiladas on the menu here, even though they’re not something Maria and her family grew up eating, but go for the pork carnitas, the enchiladas carne asada, the shrimp chipotle or some perfectly cooked beans and rice. There’s a wide range of chicken, fish, meat and vegetarian options at Quintero’s, along with really good ceviche, homemade fiery salsas and creamy, fresh guacamole.
And to that never-ending question about what’s authentic and what’s not? Maria says she’ll leave that one up to you.
“Everybody says that this is the best, most-authentic Mexican food. And the best judge of good food will always be the people. So we invite everyone to come and try. Then they’ll see for themselves.”
Quintero’s 1102 Piikoi St. Honolulu 593-1561
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A downtown dining world of its own
Friday - May 04, 2007
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Brasserie Du Vin Chef Scott Nelson
In Europe, there’s no more popular way to spend a Sunday than at an outdoor cafe serving great food, strong coffee and good wine. You grab a stack of newspapers, invite some friends, and Sunday unfolds as easily as the Style section of The New York Times.
Until now, that’s been near impossible in Honolulu. Brunches here are more lavish affairs - largely conducted at hotels where hefty checks and high turnovers set the tone.
Dave Stewart, owner of down-town’s Brasserie Du Vin, is determined to change all that. Sundays at Du Vin are divine. They promise escapism from restaurants in a rut, and refuge from the all-youcan-eat buffet. The warmly welcoming wooded bar, sunny patio and cool, cave-like wine room encourage conversation at a gentle pace - and if you’re a food-ie who has not yet been to seafood Sunday at Du Vin, you’d better rethink your commitment to the art of eating well.
Admittedly, downtown Honolulu is a sleepy sort of a place on Sundays, but somehow that makes a trip to Du Vin even more appealing. It’s quiet down there. There aren’t a bunch of tourists clad in matching aloha wear walking around, and there are no gloomy hostesses handing out beepers and telling you to come back in an hour for dinner.
Eggs Dauphine: Fried green tomatoes topped with fried egg and
house-cured salmon
Each Sunday at Brasserie Du Vin there’s a different menu, but seafood reigns supreme. In the kitchen, Chef Scott Nelson has a stylish, confident approach. He’s perfectly happy to let his dishes speak for themselves, as his house-smoked salmon does with each gorgeous mouthful. An excellent bowl of gumbo, packed with rock shrimp, white fish, Andouille sausage and chicken in a lightly spiced Cajun-style tomato broth is a steal at $8, and the don’t-miss-dish of Du Vin (served daily) is the Steamed Salt Spring Mussels ($14) topped with stick-thin, true-to-their-title French fries.
Oysters Au Gratine ($14) came to our table on a pastel plate, creating a palette of faded yellow with orangey-red garlic bell pepper aioli. Fresh New Zealand oysters on the half shell ($14) come in a cast iron pot filled with ice; each disappeared from our table within seconds.
The food presentation at Du Vin is simple, and portion sizes are perfect (they seem much larger than the original, miniscule servings when the restaurant first opened). For $25, there’s a fixed-price meal that offers an appetizer, entrée and dessert. When we were there, the appetizer was baked oysters, the entrée grilled salmon and the dessert crème brulee. The fact that you obviously save money by eating this way is just an aside - the reason to order this three-course meal is that it’s a glorious way to experience a menu put together by someone who obviously knows food.
I loved the beautifully constructed salad of frisee, pears, roasted pecans and figs with brown butter on top of lightly grilled Tasmanian salmon ($20), and I almost licked the plate free of every last morsel of Nelson’s Eggs Dauphine. This is a breakfast dish I shall be craving next Sunday and possibly every Sunday until I try it again. Crisp on the outside, soft and sweet on the inside, fried green tomatoes are topped with a lightly fried egg and house-cured salmon gravlox. Nobody even dared to try to take a bite of mine.
Take your mom next week for Mother’s Day - especially if she’s always wanted to go to Paris. It might be downtown Honolulu, but Du Vin is a dining world all its own.
Brasserie Du Vin 1115 Bethel St. Honolulu 845-1115
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Creating a menu to match the view at Aaron’s
Friday - April 27, 2007
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Aaron Placourakis with Aaron’s general manager Al
Souza
The newly renovated Ala Moana Hotel lobby proves that we all benefit from a bit of a lift. The faded carpeting and slightly shabby furnishings have been replaced with glass,wood,subtle lighting and cool, clean fabrics. Over in the far corner on the ground floor, a bar provides the perfect people-watching spot, particularly if you’re waiting for someone to join you for dinner at Aaron’s.
On the top floor of the newly renovated condominium hotel, Aaron’s has undergone something of a change in recent years. Since the appointment of George Gomes as corporate executive for Tri Star Restaurants three years ago, the food in each of the five different restaurants owned by Aaron Placourakis and partners has improved dramatically.
“George is the corporate chef for all of the restaurants,” says Placourakis. “But the important thing is that all of our executive chefs have worked with George on some level, so they know the menu as well as he does. They all know how he works, what he expects, and they know that he’s just a phone call away.
“This is a team thing,” says Placourakis of his restaurant philosophy. “It’s about trust, and it’s about everybody wanting the same thing for the restaurant, the customers and themselves.”
His theory has always been that if you treat people as if they’re in your own home, they’ll feel comfortable. If you can also feed them well and make them feel special, they’ll remember the experience. It helps, of course, that at Aaron’s, with its unrivaled view of the city, there’s an exciting menu that balances fresh fish, steaks and lobster with island produce, and an award-winning wine list.
Steamed Island onaga with baby Shanghai
cabbage, soy nori vinaigrette and sizzling
hot peanut oil is just one of the fresh
island fish dishes offered at Aaron’s
But for Placourakis, getting the food and the staff right is just part of his quest to run a perfect restaurant. “There are a lot of places known for one or two great things,” he says. “What I try to do is to hit on everything. If we have location, service, food and atmosphere, and then get high marks in all of those categories, to me that’s being well-rounded.”
Probably the easiest way to get a sense of Aaron’s is to go for the early bird three-course dinner. Even if you don’t usually order dinner before 6:30 p.m., you’ll be glad you’re doing it here. The view is exceptional, the pristine restaurant a warm and welcoming place to unwind at day’s end - and there’s the opportunity to taste some of Aaron’s signature dishes for a fraction of the regular price.A typical early evening menu might include Nalo Farms Salad (with vine-ripened tomatoes, potato fries and sesame vinaigrette), Filet Mignon Teriyaki Style (bite-sized pieces of ginger-shoyu-glazed filet mignon), Catch of the Day (usually opakapaka), Blackened Double Pork Chops (with pineapple marmalade toasted macadamia nuts), or Grilled Beef Filet (with Parmesan potato au gratin and a cabernet demi sauce). Dessert is included in the $29.95 fixed price. I’m not sure there’s a better value dining experience anywhere in Honolulu. And if you want a taste of both fine dining and stellar service, then this is an excellent place to start.
There are more than 2,000 bottles in the extraordinary wine cellar, and the private dining room within the restaurant is perfect for small, intimate gatherings.
Aaron’s has always had a view that’s hard to beat. Nowadays it has a menu to match.
Aaron’s Ala Moana Hotel 410 Atkinson Drive Honolulu 955-4466
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When it comes to Thai food, it has to be Keo’s
Friday - April 20, 2007
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Jose Alcasid: mum’s the word on celeb
diners
The first time I went to Keo’s was in 1990. I was immediately impressed by the food, but something about the design of the restaurant and the graciousness of the staff made even more of an impression. It was my first taste of Thai food and, as it turns out, I could hardly have had a better one. After I went back home to Scotland, I searched for Thai dishes and ingredients in our cosmopolitan capital city, but Edinburgh in 1990 was not the international dining mecca it is today. So when I came back to Hawaii for good in 1992, I headed straight back to Keo’s.
At the time, Keo’s was known as a celebrity destination. Walls were decorated with photographs of Keo with almost every visiting celebrity who came to town. Today, Keo still attracts his share of celebrity clients, but you’re as likely to see more floral displays or sculptures decorating the floors of the restaurant .
Keo Sananikone graduated in architecture from the University of Washington, so it’s no surprise that the interior of his restaurant exudes a certain style and beauty,but nowadays much of the beauty comes from the giant displays of tropical flowers grown on his North Shore farm, where he started growing herbs and flowers as a hobby.When I stopped by the other morning to take pictures and chat with staff, trucks were being unloaded outside on the curb - fresh flowers straight from the farm brought in by the bucketload and armfuls of fresh herbs headed for the kitchen. Another delivery truck packed with produce from other local growers sat waiting to be unloaded.
If you want to eat fresh, local food, then make it Keo’s.
The menu has a number of Thai staples - ones we’re used to seeing in the cities fine collection of thai restaurants, but Keo’s has more. With a nod to the obvious tourist trade, and perhaps to those who don’t eat Thai food too often there are numerous seafood and steak selections on the menu.
We always start at any Thai restaurant with the green papaya salad. It’s one of those dishes that’s an easy measure of how the rest of the meal may be. This one is faultless - although if you like it with some heat, make sure to ask the waiter. Most of the dishes at Keo’s will come mildly spiced unless you state your preference. Our preference is for lots of heat, and we got it.
The waiter suggested king crab legs with a Thai curry dip on the side along with drawn butter. He also recommended the whole fish of the day (it happened to be mahimahi) with a red chili sauce. Can I say fabulous often enough? The crab legs come split and ready to eat and the combination of sweet white meat and intensely flavored curry is so delicious, I wonder why I’ve never seen it before. The whole fish, a staple of Chinese restaurants, works incredibly wel,l and we literally picked every piece of firm white flesh from the bones.
Diners at a table next to us and across from us seemed so impressed with our plates and our enthusiastic mumblings through mouthfuls they all ordered the sam things-and thanked us profusely for the recommendation.
If you love Thai food, Keo’s has a menu where choosing one or two dishes is almost impossible. I wanted to order Fresh Hot Basil with Chicken, ($14.95),Thai Style Pork Chops ($16.95), Bangkok Duck ($14.95), and the Spicy Panang Stir Fried Soft Shell Crab with Peas and Cashew Nuts ($19.95), but had neither the time nor the room.
Keo’s offers valet parking,or self-parking just a short walk from the restaurant, and you’ll find the staff a friendly, well-informed and professional group. As you might expect, many of the staff are like family. Jose Alcasid started working with Keo 20 years ago, and is now a manager at the Waikiki store. “It’s like family working here,” he says from his post at the restaurant entrance where he can be found each morning taking reservations, “and we see lots of local families who come here for special occasions, like wedding receptions or anniversaries.”
Appropriately tight-lipped about the celebrity guests he’s served over the year’s, Jose does admit to a favorite. “Pat Sajak is a very nice man,“he says.“He loves Hawaii and he comes here whenever he can.”
Keo’s Waikiki 2028 Kuhio Avenue 951-9355
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A relaxed, friendly place for lunch in Waikiki
Friday - April 13, 2007
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Kalakaua Crab Cakes are sauteed and then served
with roasted red pepper sauce and tropical mango
salsa
If you happen to find yourself in the heart of Waikiki looking for a fairly relaxed place to lunch, friendly waitstaff and some reasonably priced dishes, you might want to stop at Atlantis Steak and Seafood at the site of the former Waikiki 3 Cinema.
At night the place is buzzing with happy tourists, who seem to love the fresh fish, tropical drinks and view of busy Waikiki below.
For locals, I’d suggest lunch. You’ll get some sense of the design of the restaurant, including the stunning bathrooms (which might just be the nicest in Honolulu), and there are some well-priced options that won’t break the bank. Atlantis at lunchtime offers the type of entrée you’d expect from an American-styled steak and seafood restaurant, (sandwiches, soups, salads) as well as a couple of dishes regulars of Royal Steak and Seafood may recognize.
“The menu here is not too different from Royal Steak and Seafood,” says general Manager Ida Li. “Our chef, Mario Belong, was there before (both restaurants have the same owner) and he’s brought some of the best dishes.”
The menu is fairly uncomplicated. For lunch you can have a simple pasta dish, or step it up with a Seafood Linguine ($11.95) or a Smoked Salmon Linguine ($11.95). There’s a Pacific Rim Thai Curry (basically a green curry with veggies) for $7.95, and there are several salads that include locally grown greens and chicken or fish. Nalo Greens start at $4.50, and there are Caesars ( plain, chicken or fish) at around $9.95.
“We’ve just introduced a $6.95 burger for lunch, ” says Ida, “and it’s already very popular.”
If you do go for dinner, I’d try the Atlantis Style Seafood Lau Lau ($21.95), a combination of sautéed shrimp, scallops and freshly caught island fish steamed with lau lau and spinach and served in an open-faced ti leaf.
“This is one of the dishes that everyone loves,” says Ida,“and it’s a good example of the use of fresh fish and local ingredients.”
There’s a Hawaiian Fish Loco Moco that is a really nice take on a local staple: Fresh mahimahi and opakapaka are sautéed then served on a bed of rice, drizzled with lobster sauce and topped with an egg.
Atlantis is an example of how a determined owner and an experienced staff can work small miracles in the restaurant business. Director of operations Albert Cloutier says they put the restaurant together in just four months - and that includes hoisting a giant lobster tank into the middle of Kalakaua Avenue.
“The tank arrived from China, and we had a day’s notice to get it up here,” he says of the 1,500-pound glass-and-steel tank. “We had to pick it up with a crane, stop traffic on Kalakaua Avenue, and then lift it in through the window,” he says. It might have been worth it. The tank is nothing like the tiny glass boxes seen in other restaurants - and lobster tails are a favorite on the menu.
Atlantis is open daily from 11 a.m., serving lunch and dinner.
Atlantis Seafood and Steak
2284 Kalakaua Ave.
922-6868
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Easter brunch and Hyatt’s ham to go
Friday - April 06, 2007
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Easter brunch may be one of the most eagerly anticipated breakfasts of the year. Lots of great food, a leisurely morning spent with family reflecting on life’s blessings, and excited children anxious to see what the Easter bunny has left. But while some brunches might be extraordinary, you might also need to take out a small loan to help pay for them. Brunch for four at Hoku’s for example, might be exceptional, but it will set you back over $200. So, we’ve picked some of our favorite, best-priced brunches, buffets and Easter dinner menus that showcase signature dishes at prices that won’t break the bank.
Hyatt Regency Resort and Spa
Hyatt’s “Ham to Go” has become incredibly popular over the past couple of years, with complete Easter dinners including everything from honey-glazed ham with a pineapple-raisin sauce, mashed potatoes, gravy, yams, and green beans with almonds. Also included are Portuguese bean soup, cucumber namasu, peach and blueberry cobbler and hot cross buns.
2424 Kalakaua Ave. 923-1234 Sansei Seafood Restaurant And Sushi Bar
Sansei is the perfect place for multigenerational families. All are welcome at this family-run, award-winning restaurant where emphasis is on contemporary Japanese food with a twist. This Easter dinner, featured dishes include the Easter sushi sampler ($36.95), a combination of fresh otoro sashimi and seared ahi with apple mustard vinaigrette, nigiri sushi-maguro, shiro maguro, hamachi, salmon and spicy crab roll with mamenori and a spicy Thai sweet chili sauce. The sampler includes miso soup and edamame. Other notables on the Sansei menu this weekend include shrimp and Kahuku corn chowder with roasted bell peppers, proscuitto and diced mirepoix ($5.95), Chinese five spice hoisin marinated lamb chops with grilled asparagus, oven-dried Roma tomatoes and garlic mashed potatoes ($33.95). Go early on Sunday and take 50 percent off all food and sushi from the regular menu, from 5:30 to 6 p.m.
2552 Kalakaua Ave. 931-6286 Wailana Coffee House
Whoever works the kitchen calendar at Wailana Coffee House on Ala Moana Boulevard does an impressive job of never missing an opportunity to celebrate a holiday with a complete dinner at an unbeatable price. This Easter you can choose breakfast, lunch or dinner and feast on roasted prime rib of beef ($16.95) or roast turkey with smoked ham ($11.95). Dinner includes an all-you-can-eat salad bar, corn on the cob and dessert. Wailana is open 24 hours and serves breakfast ‘round the clock. One of the specials, perfect for Easter Sunday, is Eggs Benedict Royal ($8.95)
1860 Ala Moana Blvd. 955-1764 The Pagoda
When it comes down to who’s got the local dishes you love at a price that’s hard to beat, then it’s hard to beat The Pagoda. Recently spruced up and barely showing its more than 40 years of service, the dining room is packed on holidays with families who love Chef Kina’s fried rice, kalbi short ribs, char siu pork ribs, shrimp and veggie tempura, prime rib, seafood curry, roast leg of lamb, steamed clams and mussels, and ... you get the idea, right? More food than most of you can handle for a price that’s hard to beat. Add the koi pond, the floating Japanese tearooms and the zenlike beauty of the water garden, and you’ve found the perfect place for a family brunch.
Brunch is served from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Cost: adults $25.95, keiki $13.95. Dinner from 4 to 9:30 p.m.
1525 Rycroft St. 948-8356
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Two popular, bountiful Easter brunches
Friday - March 30, 2007
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This mouthwatering duck with orange sauce is just
one of the dishes on the menu at Sam Choy’s
Diamond Head Restaurant. Easter Sunday brunch
offers a host of entrees that include prime rib,
fresh fish and a fabulous spiced leg of lamb.
Looking for somewhere to bring your family this Easter Sunday? Brunch is the obvious choice. Sunday brunch is one of the easiest (and most filling) ways to celebrate a special occasion with family and friends, and at Easter, most restaurants offer either a buffet brunch or one with special items added to the regular Sunday menu.
But buffets can be hit or miss, depending on the variety of food served and the temperature at which it is held, so it’s really worth paying a little extra to go where the food is great and the service reliable. At Sam Choy’s Diamond Head, the Big Aloha Sunday Brunch is served every week, and local families know that this is one of the great-value buffets around.
“Our Sunday brunch is really popular,” says executive chef Aaron Fukuda. “I think it’s because we have a lot of items that local people really enjoy.”
What you can trust about Sam’s brunch is that there will be lots of variety, freshly caught fish and plenty to eat! Fish is one of the dishes that can suffer badly at the hands of an inexperienced buffet crew. It cooks long after it’s been taken from the grill or sauté pan, and is often overdone before it reaches the plate. Not so at Sam Choy’s Diamond Head, where the fish is pretty much perfect. You’d expect there to be a wide selection of fish at this, one of Honolulu’s “finer” dining restaurants, and there’s variety in the way it is served. From torched sashimi to creamy spiced poke and marinated butterfish, there’s a lot to try.
Aaron Fukuda is the executive chef at Sam
Choy’s Diamond Head. He’ll be in charge
of the buffet on Easter Sunday, so look for
some very special dishes.
Highlights of the Easter brunch menu this year include a poke boat with a wide variety of freshly made poke (spicy, creamy poke, wasabi ahi poke, togarashi tako and torched sashimi), and there’s an omelet station where omelets are made fresh to order; a huge salad bar features dishes such as mushroom, proscuitto and bleu cheese salad, house kiawe-smoked salmon, potato crab salad and peel-and-eat shrimp.
Other popular favorites include sake-marinated chicken, Asian glazed ribs and a carving station with garlic-crusted prime rib and spice-rubbed leg of lamb. And to end the afternoon, chocolate lovers should save room for a trip to Sam’s Chocolate Fountain and Dessert Bar. A huge hit with customers since its introduction a couple of years ago, the chocolate fountain flows throughout brunch, bubbling with a steady stream of warm, luscious milk chocolate.
The Easter Sunday brunch will be served April 8. Cost is $32.95 for adults and $16.95 for keiki ages 5-12.
And if you want your environment a little more casual with the focus on great beer and good seafood, then head over to Sam Choy’s Breakfast, Lunch and Crab. The hugely popular BLC has a buffet where mountains of fresh poke, shrimp, crab legs, tako and a variety of seafood dishes are served. It’s hard to emulate the family style atmosphere at Sam Choy’s BLC. From the fishing boat in the middle of the dining room to the emphasis on family style dining and the genuine welcome keiki are given, it’s no wonder that BLC has gained a reputation with local families as one of the best holiday brunches in town. With live cooking stations to comfort food like roast chicken, baked ham and all-you-can-eat crab legs, it’s easy to see why BLC is the perfect place for large family gatherings.
Call early, though, if you want to reserve a spot.
Brunch at BLC will be served from 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. April 8.
Cost is $29.95 for adults and $14.95 for keiki 5 to 12. Children under 5 eat free. To make reservations, call 545-7979.
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FYI: CPK ASAP opens in Kailua town
Friday - March 23, 2007
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CPK Hawaii district manager Carlos
Delgado
Not content with owning one of the most famous acronyms in the restaurant industry, CPK is adding another. CPK ASAP recently opened in Kailua, with a whole new approach to pizza. California Pizza Kitchen Kailua is the only ASAP location in Hawaii, and its aim is to bring faster food to its devotees.
“We’re not a fast food location,” says Hawaii district manager, Carlos Delgado, carefully making the distinction between ASAP and a fast food chain. “But we are a place where you can come if you need to grab a sandwich or a salad or a freshly made pizza to go.”
With walk-up counters and a CPK To Go chilled cabinet where freshly made salads and cold sandwiches are kept, the atmosphere is casual, clean and appealing. There’s the crisp CPK décor, and a busy open kitchen, and customers can either serve themselves soda and sit down to eat, or grab their order and go.
“We’ve taken the successful concept of CPK,” explains Carlos, “and we’ve made it more casual. At the same time we’ve put a couple of different things on the menu.”
Grilled Panini, for example, are a new addition.“They’re fabulous!” enthuses Carlos. “Every single sandwich is really good.”
Choose from a French Dip Panini ($7.49) with thinly sliced roast beef and horseradish with a side of au jus, served on onion or original ciabatta bread; Grilled Chicken ($7.29) with garlic, basil mayonnaise, sun dried tomatoes and cheese; Grilled Veggie ($7.29), and a Turkey Club ($7.79) that is so good, I’ve successfully convinced my husband that it’s well worth the drive from Hawaii Kai. The Turkey Club has oven-roasted turkey breast, applewood smoked bacon, avocado, Monterey Jack cheese, arugula, sliced Roma tomatoes and a homemade sundried tomato aioli. The first time I ordered one I fully intended to share it with my friend - and then decided not to.
CPK ASAP Cobb Salad
But while the grilled panini and cold sandwiches are a tasty addition to the CPK menu, pizza and salads are still the mainstay.
“ASAP has a smaller menu than our full-service restaurants,” says Carlos,” but it also has dishes you won’t find anywhere else.”
And while there’s no pasta at the ASAP location, there may be lasagne introduced sometime soon. A children’s pasta dish is served, but the emphasis is on getting fresh, fast food to people who don’t have the time to sit in a full service restaurant.
CPK has been in Hawaii since 1987. With five locations, the Kahala Mall CPK remains the No. 1 store in the nation.
“We have a very special relationship with the people of Hawaii,” says Carlos.
And he makes sure that anytime the company can give back to the community, it does. The day I sat down to chat with Carlos and his crew, they’d just finished feeding military families at the Kaneohe Marine base.
“It was incredibly touching,” he says, visibly moved by the event. “We always try to do things that show our involvement in the community, but when you help the military and you see the people who are giving their lives for our country, it’s a very humbling experience. It tends to put things in perspective for all of us.”
For now, this will be the only ASAP location in Hawaii. Oh, and you may be interested to know that BBQ Chicken Pizza and BBQ Chicken Chopped Salad are still the most popular items at CPK ASAP. Just FYI.
CPK ASAP Kailua Town Center 609 Kailua Road 263-2480
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Hifumi: good, cheap, plentiful Japanese food
Friday - March 16, 2007
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Hifumi chef Darryl Kurihara
Don’t be surprised if you have a hard time finding Hifumi the first time you decide to go.
My problem was not lack of direction,but rather the restaurant’s location within the Chinese Cultural Plaza. I love walking through this, a most authentic slice of Chinese life in Hawaii. It offers a fascinating glimpse of life within a section of the city, made more attractive by the aroma of incense sticks at altars, and the smell of food from various restaurants around the plaza.
Hifumi is on the waterfront side of the plaza, overlooking the river. It’s not a location you’d go to because of the view or because of the atmosphere, but it is a place where you’ll find some of the best value Japanese food in town.
“It’s my secret place, where I go to when I want a fix of good, cheap Japanese and huge portions,” says a friend of mine who goes for the jumbo shrimp.
He’s not alone. Hifumi is known for so many specials it’s hard to pick just one or two to feature. Take its giant shrimp.
“These are big,” says the restaurant’s Elsie Ching, proudly holding a foot-long shrimp, freshly dipped in batter and lightly fried. “Other places they say jumbo, but the size is no bigger than our regular shrimp. This is giant.” It’s certainly huge, but what impresses about Hifumi is the tempura touch. Light, fresh-tasting oil and a crisp, golden batter surround shrimp and vegetables.
“We change the oil every day,“says Elsie, “We never use it a second time.”
In the kitchen, Darryl Kurihara has had a lot of practice making Hifumi’s signature dishes - and eating them too. “I’ve been eating here since I was a kid,“he says,“My parents used to bring me here.”
After graduating from the culinary program at KCC, Darryl was unsure of the path he should follow - and Hifumi gave him the perfect opportunity to perfect his skills and cook the food he loved to eat.
Shrimp tempura and vegetable tempura are among the most popular
dishes at Hifumi. The tempura is a crisp, golden brown
You have to work your way through the Hifumi menu,although regulars - those customers who’ve been a part of the restaurant’s history these past 37 years or so -
don’t need to look before they order. “People come for the shrimp,they come for the butterfish, the pork,” says Elsie.“They know we have the best prices and very good food - they come for the same things most every time.”
Certainly for a Japanese restaurant the prices are extraordinarily inexpensive. The lunch special ($9.95) features a choice of two items (shrimp tempura, tonkatsu, vegetable tempura, chicken katsu, beef teriyaki, pork teriyaki, ahi, salmon or Nitsuke butterfish with tofu) and comes with miso soup, tofu, gyoza, tossed salad, and cold soba noodles; choose rice and you can eat all you want.
“We don’t charge for extra rice,” says Elsie,“that’s another thing our customers like.”
You can grab a bowl of excellent Katsu Donburi for $6.95, and there are a series of monthly specials, specials for seniors and a keiki menu that could rival any of the top hotels in the city. Take the monthly opakapaka special, for example. You get a 10-ounce portion of fresh opakapaka served either Chinese style (steamed with ginger, onion and soy sauce) or wafu style (with fresh garlic, sake, soy sauce) for just $12.95.Add some sashimi and some shrimp tempura and the cost rises to just $21.95.
“People always ask us how we keep our prices so reasonable,“says Elsie. “We’re not in an expensive location, so that helps.”
Hifumi Restaurant 100 N. Beretania St.
(Parking inside Chinese Cultural Plaza)
536-3035
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A long tradition of comfort food in Kaimuki
Friday - March 09, 2007
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Sekiya’s oxtail soup comes with rice, tsukemono, cilantro
and hot tea
When Katsuko Sekiya began her family business,a new bill had just been passed in Honolulu that allowed the sale of food and other commodities on Sundays,the first commercial flight to the Mainland left Honolulu for San Francisco, and a plate lunch cost 10 cents a portion.
The year was 1935. By the time Sekiya’s moved to Kapahulu Avenue in 1947, plate lunches had yet to break the $1 mark, and a bowl of steaming hot saimin was yours for just 30 cents.
“We have original photos and menus from around the 1940s,” says current owner of the family business, Joy Morihara,“and it is amazing to look back and see the changes.”
And while you can’t get saimin for cents anymore, (it’s $3.75 a bowl nowadays), nothing much else has changed at Sekiya’s in more than 50 years.
“The restaurant has been in our family for 72 years,“says Joy, who grew up on Maui, but remembers coming to stay in Honolulu for the summer and spending time with her grandparents at the store. “It was always fun, always exciting to be here,” she says.
So what makes Sekiya’s so popular?
Joy says there are a number of reasons.“Of course we have generations of families who’ve been coming to the restaurant since they can remember,“says Joy,“but we also have Kaimuki high school students who come back as adults looking for the same taste and flavors they remember.”
There’s something comforting in finding the same taste in the same dishes, year after year.
Joy Morihara, Lisa Melanson and Mary Reitz at Sekiya’s
Sekiya’s also has one of the few old-style delis left in Honolulu - where a la carte items such as musubi (40 cents), potato macaroni salad ($1.05), shrimp tempura ($1.45) and tsukemono (50 cents) are made daily along with some of Sekiya’s specials - dishes like shoyu hot dogs (55 cents), chicken sukiyaki ($12.95) and lima beans ($4 per pound). You can order butterfish in parts (belly, fillet or tail), and the cone sushi ($1) has earned a reputation as some of the best in Honolulu.
Lines for the okazu dishes begin at around 10:30 a.m. and continue throughout the lunchtime rush.As the restaurant begins to fill with regular customers, two or three servers are kept busy filling to-go boxes with everything from egg rolls to char sui and homemade tsukemono.
“Part of the reason people like to come back again and again is that we make all of our sauces and stocks from scratch,“says Joy,“so we get the same flavor that they’re used to.”
There’s nothing fancy about Sekiya’s. With fading paint and a look that’s not been updated much in decades, there’s comfort, too, in the unpretentious atmosphere.
“Most of our customers know what they want as soon as they come in,“says Joy,“they don’t really even need menus.”
The menu is huge at Sekiya’s. Ask any regular their favorite and some will swear that the oxtail soup is the best, others that the hash tempura (deep-fried corned-beef hash) is well worth the trip.
The girls at the deli counter tell me proudly that customers drive from all over the island for Sekiya’s soft and sweet cone sushi.
There are dozens of noodle dishes, salads, sukiyaki, donburi and local-style chicken pork and beef dishes, and you can even sip on a root beer float or enjoy an ice cream sundae as you remember your childhood days and a taste of an older Hawaii.
Sekiya’s Restaurant and Delicatessen
2746 Kaimuki Ave.
Honolulu
732-1656
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Good golly, Miss Molly has kolaches!
Friday - March 02, 2007
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Molly Walker is smokin’
Molly Walker is well on her way to becoming the queen of comfort food in Hawaii. Doesn’t seem to matter if you’re from Kalihi or Kansas, the appeal of her home-cooked plates of chicken fried steak, barbecued ribs and slow smoked pulled pork are enough to tempt almost any taste buds.
And now she’s adding breakfast dishes to the list of comfort foods she’s bringing to Hawaii.
“I think everyone who knows me knows that I am dedicated to bringing a true taste of Texas to Hawaii,” says the irrepressible Molly.
It’s hard to resist Molly’s barbecue. She owns a custom-made smoker that sits outside the restaurant, occasionally sending a puff of sweetly scented barbecue smoke into the air, and she makes some of the greatest barbecued ribs you’ll taste. But while Molly might be the queen of barbecue, it’s her kolaches that are suddenly the talk of the town.
Don’t know what a kolache is? I didn’t either, so I drove up to Molly’s Smokehouse Wahiawa last week and fell in love at first bite.
“They’re Scandinavian in origin, ” says Molly of the perfectly round, warm, oven-fresh kolaches,“but we have them in Texas too. They remind me so much of manapua that I thought they’d fit right in here in Hawaii.”
Portuguese sausage-filled kolaches for breakfast.
Move over, manapua, there’s a new bun in town
So how do they taste? First,imagine a well-stuffed manapua, and then, imagine fillings of barbecued pork, smoked brisket, homemade smoked sausage,Portuguese sausage or ham and cheese. These beautifully round dough balls are then baked in a hot oven until they turn a golden, toasty brown. One bite and you’re in a comfort food coma.At $1.30 each ($14 a dozen), I predict Molly has a huge food hit on her hands.
I tried both the Portuguese sausage mixture and the barbecued pork, and was truly sold in just a couple of mouthfuls. They even reheat well, so while the drive to Wahiawa may be far from town, you’ll be a hero when you arrive home with a dozen.
In their sweeter form, Molly’s kolaches can barely contain the fruit that spills over the top of these warm, sugared breakfast treats. If you enjoy the sweet, gooey sumptuousness of a fresh Danish brimming with fruit, then Molly’s apple, peach and cream cheese delights will seem intoxicating. Order up a hot cup of coffee and enjoy!
Stationed in Wahiawa during one of her husband’s military assignments,Molly fell in love with Hawaii from day one.
“We’d been everywhere,“she says, “but once we came to Hawaii, we just couldn’t leave.We tried to, but couldn’t do it.”
Military residents of Wahiawa and exiled Southerners are thankful that she stayed.
“We get people coming in all the time who want to tell us how much they love the food and the opportunity to eat some real Texas food,” says Molly.
Those in search of other comforting Southern breakfast dishes will be pleased to note that Molly serves Sausage, Egg and Biscuits ($2.99), Country Fried Steak ($9.99) and homemade Biscuits and Gravy ($6.99), in addition to specials that include a Loco Moco ($6.50) and Steak and Eggs ($9.99).
Freshly baked, fruit-filled kolaches. Peaches, apple
and a variety of other flavors are topped with a
drizzle of warm icing sugar and served up hot
“We do grits, too, and we make our own corned beef hash, country potatoes tossed with onions, peppers and cheese, and we make our own sausages for breakfast,“says Molly.“We like to do things that you really can’t find anywhere else.”
And, not content with bringing a contender to the humble manapua to the Islands, Molly has plans for another great Southern dish,soon to grace the menu: chicken and waffles. Light syrupy waffles and some real fried chicken all smothered in a sweet maple syrup.
Molly says it’s just another example of a dish that Texans do best.
Molly’s Smokehouse
23 S. Kamehameha Highway
Wahiawa
621-4858
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