Brewing up great Oktoberfest feasts

Jo McGarry
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Friday - September 28, 2007
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Sam Choy's BLC executive chef Aurelio Garcia
Sam Choy’s BLC executive chef Aurelio Garcia

Time to get your annual fill of sausage, sauerkraut, specialty beers and oompah music as Hawaii’s annual Oktoberfest celebrations get under way. And while the premise of most events is the same, not all Oktoberfests are created equal.

When Bavarian fever hits Honolulu, you can taste elegant prix fixe meals, or get caught up in the atmosphere that only a combination of beers and chicken dancing can create. I checked out some menus and special dishes, and ate way more sausage than I should have last week, all in the quest to bring you the best beers and brats in Honolulu.


Aurelio Garcia is the executive chef at Sam Choy’s Breakfast Lunch and Crab, and he looks forward to Oktoberfest as one of the most popular food festivals of the year.

“A lot of the recipes we use are inspired by Sam’s mother’s recipes,” he says, “and our techniques for marinating and for cooking certain dishes are all based on ideas from Sam.”

Beer marinated short ribs, Sam Choy's Breakfast Lunch and Crab
Beer marinated short ribs, Sam Choy’s Breakfast Lunch and Crab

If you’re thinking of heading down to BLC this weekend, then make sure to order a beer or two to pair with your food. Brewmaster Dave Campbell has been at the Big Aloha Brewery since opening day, and his seasonal beers are a great reason to visit the microbrewery.

“We cook a lot of our dishes with our beer,” says Aurelio,“including our marinated ribs and our pork loin with garlic.”

Sausage kebobs, featuring bratwurst, knockwurst and jagdwurst (a traditional Tyrolean sausage made with veal, pork and beef) are on the German-inspired lunch and dinner menus, along with dishes like Ehu Beer Braised Short Ribs, and Sam’s German Sausage Entrée (broiled bratwurst, knockwurst and jagdwurst drizzled with a mustard vinaigrette).

Do try Sam’s German Plate (bratwurst and roast pork with gravy) if you’re feeling outrageously hungry - and check out the excellent, house-smoked salmon. It’s cured in house by Aurelio.

At The Hale Koa Hotel, German chef Rolf Walter considers Oktoberfest to be an opportunity to let people taste the food of his homeland. And while imported beers such as Spaten,Warsteiner and Kostriker are part of the attraction along with Apple Schnapps, Jaegermeister and Rumpel Mintze, the dancing and camaraderie that happens each year at Hale Koa is one of the main reasons guests return. Chef Walter begins Oktoberfest preparations threeweeks in advance of the event, and takes pride in the fact that each of his dishes, from homemade sauerkraut to mixed plates of meats and potato salad, are authentic.

German dishes, some inspired by recipes from Sam's mom
German dishes, some inspired by recipes from Sam’s mom, are a feature at Sam Choy’s BLC this weekend. Here, sausage kebobs pair perfectly with Big Aloha Brewery’s Ehu Ale

“It’s not that easy to find traditional German food in Hawaii,“he says.“So each year we try to bring people a taste of Germany here at home.“Atmosphere and music at The Hale Koa are authentic too, and Bavarian band Neil Gow and the Five Knights ensure a steady stream of dancing all night long.

If you’re looking for lots of activity, live German music and great camaraderie, then the longest-running, busiest Bavarian festival at Ala Moana Hotel’s Hibiscus Ballroom is for you. Staff wears traditional dirndls, and the Edelweiss band has been traveling to Hawaii every year since 1970 to perform at the six-day event. Food stations offer pig knuckles, giant bratwurst and traditional dishes and stay open throughout the evening. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself swept up in the atmosphere and ready for a chicken dance or two.


And finally, if you’re on a budget, like to eat late at night, or just enjoy the friendly atmosphere at Honolulu’s oldest coffee shop, then stop by Wailana Coffee House between Oct. 5 and 6 for a sampling of traditional German dishes with sides and salad bar. Specials include smoked ham shanks, bratwurst and smoked pork chops all served with sauerkraut, potato salad and red cabbage. Complete meals at Wailana start at $11.50 and include all-youcan-eat salad bar.

Prosit!

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