The ‘wow’ factor at Top of Waikiki
Friday - September 12, 2008
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If you haven’t been to Top of Waikiki in a while, it’s time to take another look.
Savvy foodies are already aware of the changes that executive chef Sean Priester has been making to the menu these past few years, and now the restaurant has had a complete makeover (perhaps the most overdue in Honolulu restaurant history), too.
“There’s been a lot of hype recently about the restaurant,” says Priester.“Partly, of course, it’s the renovation, but we’re happy to see that it’s also people talking about the menu.”
This column is too short - and the menu worthy of all available words - for me to write much about the new décor. Suffice to say it all looks lovely and the view is as breathtaking as ever.
Now, back to the food.
Priester is making some of the most visually thrilling, artistically presented, palate-pleasing food in Honolulu, and in the past few years, his style has become clearer and more intense.
“We are totally focused on what we’re doing here,“says the passionate and immensely likeable Priester. “We focus on quality ingredients and execution, but at the end of the day I believe when people go out to eat, they don’t want to experience things that they can eat or make at home. The restaurant business is also the entertainment business.”
I’ve heard similar comments for years from chefs convinced they’ve come up with the new version of fusion, but I believe Priester is one of a rarer breed, capable of perfecting the delicate balance among execution, quality and taste. At Top of Waikiki there are two true things: The food looks beautiful and the flavors work.
“I feel like it’s up to me to use my voice as a chef to totally wow people when they come to the restaurant,” he says.
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While years ago the view was the only memorable part of a visit to Top Of Waikiki, today the food could be changing opinions.
“Let’s face it,” says Priester. “Lots of the guests are coming up here because of the view. The thrill is to be able to wow them with the food.”
With dishes like American Kobe cheeseburger Wellington, Niman Ranch Kalbi Ribs and Hawaiian Snapper Sous Vide, it’s hard to tear your eyes away from the plates.
And what’s fun about Priester’s food is the menu reads like a culinary autobiography of the chef. Priester is inspired by the ordinary events of everyday life - a train trip in Spain, a farmers’ market, other chefs and his own Southern background - and all of these influences can be found on his plates.
A recent trip to Europe, for example, inspired the Tapas of Waikiki ($24), where roasted vegetables and mushroom escabeche (inspired by a trip to Spain) sit next to mini Camembert and tomato sandwiches. French soft cheese, lightly poached pears and Serrano ham (memories of a sandwich he ate on a train in Barcelona) are plated next to miniature tortillas and Nicoise salad on a stick - the classic ingredients of potato, olive, tuna, green beans, anchovy and egg a delightfully deconstructed salad.
The Cheeseburger Wellington ($29) presentation is perfect, with Kobe beef, braised pancetta and truffle foie gras combined to make a “burger” topped with wild mushroom duxelle and Havarti, Swiss and Provolone cheeses, all wrapped Wellington-style in a sesame seed puff pastry bun.A sheet of wax paper gives the impression of a fast-food burger, tiny cipollini onion rings serve as French fries, balsamic tomato reduction works as ketchup, wasabi Dijon aioli as mayonnaise, and grilled romaine and pickled cucumbers finish the garnish.
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“It’s inspired by Daniel Boulud’s gourmet burgers,“says Priester,“so we took that concept and created what I think is a very powerful statement - and the best burger in Honolulu.”
Memories of Priester’s Southern childhood are evident, too, in one of his favorite dishes, Indo Latino Gulf Shrimp and Grits ($22) and for evidence of the influence of Asian food on his cooking, look no further than Miso Soup ($29), where misoyaki butterfish, tempura scallop and shrimp tofu soufflé combine with braised baby bok choy and white shimeji mushrooms in a miso broth topped with pickled carrots and daikon.
You’ll find Priester most Saturday mornings at the KCC farmers’market, where he’s been a regular visitor since its opening, and Nalo Farms tatsoi, Maui onions, Kukui sausage, Kahuku corn, local tomatoes and Kona kampachi are on a menu that sings of local produce.
There’s free validated parking (a rarity in Waikiki), and prices have been kept to well below most fine-dining competitors. Appetizers start at $9, and entrees are between $22 and $39.
“We’ve tried to make it inviting and exclusive,” says Priester. “We want people to leave here feeling like the value they get is exceptional.”
And as word spreads about the incredible food and Priester’s dedication to his art and to detail, locals are beginning to flock back to the Waikiki monument that first opened in 1965.
“We’re calling Wednesday night ‘local night,’” he says, laughing. “There are definitely groups of local people who are starting to come back, and we really appreciate them.”
While the view and the refurbishments at Top of Waikiki are certainly worthy of a new look, it’s the chef who’ll get your full attention.
Top of Waikiki Waikiki Business Plaza 923-3877
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