Friday - September 15, 2006
Remembering 9/11 at Sandy Beach
Aloha, surfers and beachgoers!
First Wave: “The best of times ... the worst of times” - that’s what it feels like as I write this on Sept. 11. We’ve been having great weather and waves. The South Shore is lasting well into September. We just had our first NW swell of fall. Our light trades have delivered clean ocean textures. It’s been - and is - a sweet ride.
At the same time, reflecting on this day five years ago I go into a whole different view: the tragedy of it all, our frailty, my family’s safety. Yet look at how far we’ve come, who we’ve become, because of 9/11. It’s been - and is - an amazing ride.
Second Wave: As of this time we see two swells of interest: A south and north builds Friday! We will continue to have fun 2-foot to 3-foot-plus waves on most shores into next week! So stay waxed and ready. Be sure to log into the new and improved SURFNEWSNETWORK.COM. Dig around and make yourself at home - there’s a ton there for all interest levels.
Third Wave: On the Fosters world tour - the game is on again.
We’re at Trestles in Southern “Cali.” Man, those guys always score the most ripable waves.
It truly is the “Dream Tour.” The way Trestles breaks allows for the most progressive moves of our day. They pull off lots of “above the water” tricks that were unimagined just 20 years ago. Let’s hope for close competition between all athletes, especially Andy Irons and Kelly Slater. We want to make it to the Vans Triple Crown without knowing who’s going to win the world title. It’s amazing to think that Slater may win his eighth championship. Or will it be Irons’ fourth? Stay tuned.
Fourth and final Wave: For those who haven’t heard, the surfing world lost a legend Sept. 5. He was one of the world’s all-time best surf and skate-boarding photographers ever. His name is Warren Bolster. It was always my dream to have Warren’s photos on my website. He was open to the idea just to help me and maybe sell a few. I mean, here is one of the world’s best, who’s been on the cover of every major surf publication many times over and sells his pictures for thousands, willing to take a chance on an idea. Thanks, Warren.
I’d talk to him often at 24 Hour Fitness. Warren was always pretty disciplined on his workouts, especially his “neck” program. Many don’t realize how taxing it is being out in the water for hours in critical sections with a camera! He wanted to extend his time in the lineup, especially with age. Warren wanted that edge. He had it.
Google Warren Bolster and take a journey into his view of our beloved sport. His images still sit comfortably and beautifully in my mind. They will for you, too.
Warren was 59.
I’ll cover more in a later issue when Warren took breakthrough shots of SNN reporter and big wave rider Alec Cook (Ace Cool) at Kaena Point and outside Log Cabins - from a helicopter!
I’ll see you back here next week! GQ, dropping in 4 U!
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