Surfing more spots
Friday - January 04, 2008
Happy New Year, surfers and beachgoers!
Whoa, where’d 2007 go? Most surfers like speed, but this is ridiculous. It reminds me of those periods when you surf a lot every day for a long stretch and the days blend into one big barrel. Our lives are busy and blessed,so I guess that’s why time flies by.
Well, why not throw down a few Surf Resolutions to kick off 2008? OK, here are a few of mine:
1) Surf more variety of spots ... My plan is to start far out toward Kaena Point and work from left to right (facing the surf).I’m not going to mention the names of the breaks, but let’s say I have my “work"cut out for me.Several spots in between will be missed.However, I’ll easily ride more than 30 spots I don’t regularly surf. By the time I get near Polynesian Culture Center it will likely be Christmas again. Oh, poor me.
2) Gotta try the SUP, or stand up paddle boarding.Something tells me this will trim some weight off my midsection - and bank account. Not that either of those has much to trim. But from what surfers like Brian Keaulana (C4 Waterman) and Reid Inouye (Heavy Water Mag) say, one hour of SUP equals three or four hours of surfing. I know how I felt the last time I surfed four hours ... it took me four days to recoup.So wish me well ... and don’t laugh.
3) Try to think less of work while surfing (and vice versa). It sounds easier than it is ... especially when you’re in the surf business. For example,I’m out surfing Sunset and
Randy Rarick (North Shore Surf Mayor) paddles over and we discuss the Vans Triple Crown. All of a sudden a set rolls in, and Randy stops our board meeting to catch the best wave of the set and leave me sitting there. Is that a “board meeting”? You bet it is.We are officially working - and Randy got the best deal. I know your heart pumps peanut butter for us both. But hey, someone’s got to do it.
Otherwise, the forecast is looking decent but not great. There’s a run of near advisory North swells with cold NE winds. These are Hawaii standards though. So don’t worry, be happy! Remember, “decent” sounds like a cheap shot to those visiting surfers.You know, our guests think we’re rubbing it in when we complain about how freezing it feels whenever it drops below 65 degrees. But we don’t mean to be mean - we really are freezing.And if the waves aren’t tubing overhead and offshore, we really are bumming. I mean, you try living in paradise without getting spoiled. It’s hard!
Hey, there’s a good New Year’s Resolution - try not taking what we have for granted. That’s the ticket ... seriously. When I get chilled from a Northeast trade wind I’m not going to worry, but be happy; it’s warm enough to be outside in shorts and T -with slippers! When I paddle out in a 3-foot trade swell at Diamond Head I’m not going to worry, but be happy by staying in shape and enjoying the view.
I have to program my brain to automatically download the timeless phrase of renowned surf videographer Larry Haines:“It’s all good.” Hey, what do I have to lose but a little frustration, worry and disappointment? Then it will be easier to program my three pounds of gray matter to automatically upload gratitude, contentment and ... stoke!
Sounds good to me. I’m feeling better already!
Thank you for all the time you spend here with MidWeek.Let’s look forward to another awesome year in the surf.
GQ, dropping in 4 U!
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