Swells switching from south to north shores

Gary Kewley
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Friday - September 28, 2007
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After getting out of the water
After getting out of the water, Josh Kerr admitted it was the biggest air he had landed in his life. Two high scoring rides later, Kerr defeated Hawaii’s Fred Patacchia in round two of the Quiksilver Pro in France

Wussup, surfers?

We are now officially in fall and the surf signs are showing it … smaller, less frequent waves in town and just the opposite in country. It’s also an in-between period where swells can be on every side of the island … spreading the crowds. October is going to have a slow start because of the jet stream’s zonal flow or west-to-east track. The jet steers the storms which bring our waves; we need an equatorial or southerly “dip” in the “jet” to get storms closer and moving toward us. Not to worry, last October had a slow start, too. It wasn’t till Oct. 11 when we had out first 6-foot NW. But after that it turned on. We then had another 6-foot swell Oct. 15, and then a 10-foot swell Oct. 18. This really kicked fall into high gear. We may expect about the same this year! Stoked!


It’s “game on” in France for the Quiksilver Pro. We should have results by the time you read this, so please log on at SURFNEWSNETWORK. Next stop: Spain, for event No. 8 out of 10. Then it’s Brazil before all the surfing world descends on the North Shore in November. That’s right; the Vans Triple Crown isn’t as far off as you think. I can hardly wait. This year Billabong replaces Rip Curl as the headline Pipeline Masters sponsor. Now, Billabong has four of the Foster’s World Tour events —  twice that of Quiksliver and Rip Curl, who share two a piece. Now that’s commitment!

These huge manufactures know all too well the added value to their core branding and longevity. With the Internet, more people than ever before (who buy or don’t buy their goods) are watching live. Think about Billabong for a second — they spend tons already, why add the Pipe Masters? Simple, really, it’s the final event of the entire year, claiming the world champ (and Triple Crown) often comes down to right here. The two most respected victories for any pro surfer is becoming a Pipe Master and Triple Crown champ, just behind the world title. I’ll bet the executive surfers at Billabong figured this way: Can we afford not to? Their man Andy Irons is already written into the final heat sheet. Billabong can drop some other event if it wants, but not this one — not the Pipe Masters. It creates legends and in turn makes Billabong legendary.

Chun's Reef reveals how the season has switched and surfers are ready
Chun’s Reef reveals how the season has switched and surfers are ready

Last week, Jeannie Chesser’s fundraiser was an amazing success. I haven’t seen a line around Hard Rock like that in ages. The surfing community just poured out the love. What a party. I’ve got the photos on my SNN website photo gallery if you want to see them. I’ll be getting Jeannie to tell a few jokes, talk surf and life next week, so please be here.


Hey, check it out: MOBI PCS has SNN surf reports now. Very cool, just like its whole team — built in and committed to Hawaii.

Coming up Thursday and Friday, Oct. 6-7 is the HASA event No. 3 at Diamond Head. I think they’ll be catching a declining swell. If not, Diamond always has something. Keep you posted!

See you in the surf and here next week …

Aloha, GQ, dropping in 4 U!

 

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