A Family Wrapped Up In Work

Sinaloa Hawaiian Tortillas is finding a niche in the Islands — freshly made tortillas — and the whole Macias family is involved. Where else but Hawaii could they come up with a recipe for Sinaloa Teriyaki Tortilla Maki?

Susan Sunderland
Wednesday - January 04, 2006
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Seferino Cachero prepares the flour dough ready to make tortillas
Seferino Cachero prepares the flour dough ready
to make tortillas

Gary Lindo with great balls of corn tortilla dough
Gary Lindo with great balls of corn tortilla dough

Pacita Cabreros, Orbela Javier and Mellissa Dela Cruz pack freshly baked tortillas for shipping
Pacita Cabreros, Orbela Javier and Mellissa Dela
Cruz pack freshly baked tortillas for shipping

Sinaloa produces a quarter-million tortillas a day. The fully-automated production line turns a family recipe of quality ingredients into corn tortillas and eight kinds of flour tortillas.

Other varieties, including blue corn tortillas, are made for food-service, wholesale clients. Sixty percent of Sinaloa’s business is in retail sales and 40 percent in wholesale orders. It supplies 65 percent of the state’s restaurants and over 200 school cafeterias.

Gross sales this year are about $2 million, up from $1.79 million last year. CEO Macias says growth has been 10 to 15 percent in the last three years. The outlook for 2006 is equally optimistic, citing these factors:

* Retail: “greater acceptance by local residents, new packaging design, and a recent price increase in November.”

* Foodservice: “2005 growth was around 25 percent, compared to 2004 and is expected to grow even more as new Mexican restaurants open.”

* New product: “Hot chili sauce is expected to be introduced in summer.”

That tracks with national trends as the popularity of the tortilla, a staple in Mexican homes for thousands of years, moves into mainstream American dining. Industry sales were more than $5.3 billion in 2004, up 20 percent from 2002.

The Tortilla Industry Association notes the fastest growing segment is the non-Hispanic market. Rising sales are attracting new companies with multi-million dollar plants into an arena long dominated by momand-pop “tortillerias.”

Sinaloa Hawaiian Tortillas is still a mom-and-pop shop, although the Macias sons have big dreams for the family business. Sons “Q” and “C” wax enthusiastically about product extensions, including gourmet tortilla chips, bottled salsas, and a revival of Sinaloa Restaurant.

If it’s meant to be, it will happen, in the view of their dad, who looks forward to retirement and more time on the golf course.

But there’s no denying that there’s a big hunger for tortillas, both locally and internationally. Tortillas occupy more space in supermarkets than ever before. Sales of corn tortillas are growing more rapidly than flour tortillas, although flour remains the leading type of tortilla in North America. Sinaloa also produces whole wheat tortillas.


Among Sinaloa’s specialty tortillas are low-fat and low-carb versions. “Q” notes that Sinaloa’s low-carb product is one of the top three produced in the nation. Hawaii’s recipe is superior, he claims, because it has the lowest carbohydrate content (5 percent).

Macias attributes the steady growth of tortillas to America’s grab-and-go eating style, although he wishes more families would sit down for mealtime and not rush through dinner.

“But we live in a mobile society,” he says of food wrapped in tortilla. “We’re not caught up in aesthetics.”

To enjoy a tortilla at the peak of perfection, Macias says to first heat it. Heating instructions are printed on the package. Another tortilla tip is to not rush it into the refrigerator, affecting its texture. Use and handle tortillas like bread.

As for what goes into a tortilla, it need not be only Mexican ingredients. Kalua pig, sushi rice, Spam, even peanut butter can be wrapped inside. Use your imagination.

Just remember, Macias beams, “Sinaloa is made in Hawaii with aloha. That’s what makes us unique.”


Here’s a family favorite:

SINALOA TERIYAKI TORTILLA MAKI

* 1 Sinaloa Burrito Flour Tortilla
* 1 sheet musubi nori (optional)
* 1 scoop rice flavored with sushi vinegar
* 4 thin stripes of teriyaki Spam
* 1/2 teaspoon furikake
* 1 teaspoon Sinaloa salsa

Preparation: Cook the rice, allow to cool, and flavor with sushi vinegar. Fry Spam in teriyaki sauce and cut into long thin strips. Set those ingredients aside.

To assemble: Heat Sinaloa tortilla for a few seconds on an ungreased skillet. Remove from skillet and place on a flat surface.

Place a sheet of nori on the tortilla, then spread rice on lower third of nori.

Sprinkle furikake on rice then arrange strips of Spam on rice.

Drizzle teriyaki sauce and salsa over Spam.

Fold approximately 1/2 inch of the left and right edges of Sinaloa tortilla over the filling and tightly roll it, being careful not to tear it. Cut into sushi-size slices and enjoy.

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