A delicious culinary collaboration
Friday - November 09, 2007
|
Del.icio.us | 
Podcast | WineAndDineHawaii.com Share
|
When news began to filter through last year of chefs Donato Loperfido and Philippe Padovani sharing a kitchen and collaborating on a new restaurant, Elua, local foodies held their breath - but not their comments. In fact, it seemed the only two people who didn’t have a mixed opinion of the partnership were the chefs themselves.
“We’re good friends,” says Loperfido, “and we had worked with each other before this, so we both knew that we could get along well in the kitchen.”
Padovani agrees:“It’s going very well,“he says, adding that their difficulties lie in logistical problems rather than egotistical ones.
“We’re supposed to have the same number of dishes on the menu,” says Padovani, “and that can sometimes be a problem because there are so many dishes we each want to do.”
And regular customers are proving a little more problematic than both chefs anticipated.
“They don’t want us to take anything off the menu,“says Padovani, who’s keen to rotate seasonal produce.
It’s not hard to see why regular customers turn pale at the thought of dishes like Loperfido’s Stinco di Angello Ai Porcini (braised Colorado lamb shank) or Padovani’s Terrine of Foie Gras of Duck leaving the menu, even briefly. These are dishes that can’t be found anywhere else in town.
“The foie gras recipe was taught to me by my mentor, George Achini,” says Padovani of the incredible silky smooth duck liver terrine.
And who can imitate Loperfido’s hand-made stracciatella, a soft white cheese, learned from his grandmother?
|
Co-owner Keith Kiuchi is largely responsible for the fascinating wine list and for the city’s only magnum-stocked Cruvinet system, and Loperfido’s wines from Italy (he imports a line of value-priced, first-rate finds) add outstanding value.
While technically one page of the menu is Loperfido’s and the other Padovani’s, there’s a tasting menu that features dishes from both chefs, and guests may order from both.
Go for lunch and you’ll find a variety of soups, salads and light entrees including the best salad Nicoise in Honolulu. At night, expect to take your time savoring an experience where food is the highlight, wines are perfectly paired and the staff encourages you to sit awhile and enjoy the food.
“A lot of the customers feel as if they’re coming to two restaurants, getting the experience of two chefs, and yet still paying very reasonable prices,” says Padovani.
Fresh Oysters Hawaiian Mignonette ($13) is one of my favorite Padovani dishes, along with a Hawaiian Salad and Sauted Shrimp, where the use of Big Island hearts of palm, papaya and mango combine to provide color and texture as a backdrop to sweet, juicy shrimp.
From Loperfido’s side of the menu, try the simple but perfect Orecchiette Crudaliola ($16) with ripe tomatoes, imported Italian olive oil and Parmesan cheese; or his rustic Linguine Salsiccia e Funghi ($18) with Italian sausage, meaty Hamakua mushrooms, Hauula tomatoes and fresh basil. That so few ingredients can create such a memorable dish is a testament to Loperfido’s undoubted talent.
Fresh ingredients, local produce, good value and dedication is what Elua stands for, says Padovani.
And while there are those who still believe two chefs will never succeed in one kitchen, Padovani believes that he and his spirited partner share what’s important - an understanding of food.
“When you think about France and Italy,” he says,“the history of food is not too dissimilar.”
And then, with something of a wry smile he adds,“The Italians started everything, of course - and then the French went on to master it.”
Elua Restaurant and Wine Bar 1341 Kapiolani Blvd. 955-3582 Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner daily 6-11 p.m.
E-mail this story | Print this page | Comments (0) | Archive | RSS Comments (0) |
Most Recent Comment(s):
