Beachside dining at its best
Friday - July 25, 2008
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It’s probably no longer relevant to refer to Ocean House and its incredible beachside location as one of Honolulu’s hidden secrets. Open for more than six years, there are now plenty of savvy kamaaina familiar with both the view and the food. But still ... oh, once a night or so, someone will walk into the restaurant and ask general manager David Nagaishi how long it’s been there.
“It happens all the time,” says Nagaishi, a veteran of the dining scene in Honolulu.“Guests take a look at the room, the beach, the view and they can’t believe they haven’t been here before.”
One thing’s for sure, once you step inside Ocean House you’re unlikely to forget your first impression.
Entrees begin at $19 and,as you’d expect from a spot right on the water,there’s a fine selection of fresh fish including mahimahi, hapu’upu’u (Hawaiian sea bass) and opah. Pupu start at $9 and nobody minds if you share - in fact, the menu helpfully states that portions (including spare ribs, ahi tartar and a tasty escargot and brie bake) are large enough for two or more. One of the most popular entrees comes in the form of Coconut Lobster Skewers ($13). Sounds unusual, but whoever came up with the idea of putting lobster on a stick and serving it with a sweet chili and lime sauce hit on something that’s become a firm favorite.
The Ocean House menu offers extraordinarily good value, and considering the location, one could argue the best value in all of Waikiki. Seared, peppered sea scallops served over mushrooms with a soy-sake butter sauce are $10, and a good-sized portion of ahi sashimi is $12. There’s an enthusiastic young staff, thriving under the mentorship of Nagaishi.
“I love it here,“says manager Lilia Wilson with a smile. “The view is incredible and, when local people come here, they are really happy with the prices and the food.”
She offers her favorite dishes to anyone looking for a dining tip.
“I always recommend the Parmesan-Crusted Opah Picatta ($26),” she says. “It’s grilled Hawaiian moonfish with our caper, wine and lemon-butter sauce, and the flavors all just blend beautifully.”
But it’s at sunset when Ocean House comes into its own. There are sunset views as nice along the coast of Waikiki, but there is none better.
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“Guests just love the view,” says Wilson.“They’re in awe when they come in for the first time and see the beach and the ocean.“But while the sunset and the restaurant’s décor might be impressive, it’s the Hawaiian salted, slow-roasted prime rib, among other dishes, that has people coming back for more. “It’s the best in Honolulu,” says Nagaishi with a smile. He might just be right. For $28 you get a hearty portion of incredibly tender beef that’s been slow-roasted in the restaurant’s electric imu.
“Chef roasts the meat for between 10 and 12 hours, depending on the size,“says Nagaishi.“He’s an expert at getting the meat exactly right and that’s something that can’t be done in a regular oven.” The ultra-slow roasting process results in remarkably tender beef that’s served in several ways: The Ocean House Cut ($27) is a large portion of tender beef; there’s a Lite Cut ($23) for those with a smaller appetite; the Alii Cut ($33) is a huge portion cut to satisfy larger appetites; Pulehu Prime Rib ($28) is seasoned with salt,garlic and fresh herbs; and a Prime Rib New Orleans ($28), where the meat is flash-grilled with a dry Cajun spice mix.
“There’s a prime rib for everyone,” says Nagaishi.
Another surprise at Ocean House is the wine list, where pricing remains in keeping with the restaurant’s promise to offer value.
“People are often very surprised at the quality of wines we offer here,“says Nagaishi.“But our commitment has always been to offer great food and a great experience at a price that most people can afford.
“Parties, wedding receptions, showers and graduations are all becoming part of the Ocean House experience. Our dining room works so well for these kind of parties, and with the completely open façade looking out to the beach, no one ever gets bored with the view.”
Wilson agrees, and hears comments about the view and the food all evening long. “My favorite time of day is just around sunset when the colors in the sky are amazing and the restaurant is so beautiful,” she says. “It’s always really special when local people are here for the first time and they experience that. It makes working here special.”
The Ocean House Restaurant Beachfront in the Outrigger Reef Hotel
2169 Kalia Road Waikiki 923-2277
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