Simple, satisfying, savory soup

It’s the ultimate recession-proof dish. Sophisticated, stylish, inexpensive and often stunningly simple, soup can be made from almost anything and eaten at every meal. All cultures have a version, which means in Hawaii you’re as likely to find a cooling soup for summer as you are a hearty winter broth.

Here’s an (abbreviated) look at some of the Island’s best bowls.

KOREAN
Soondubu
So Gong Dong

Soondubu is the signature dish of So Gong Dong, the Korean restaurant located on the second floor of McCully Shopping Center. Served in a clay pot, the tofu soup has a beef broth and is packed with melting tofu and ground beef. The heat level can vary depending on your preference, so ask for it spicy if you need some heat. More than 70 percent of customers who frequent the restaurant go for the soup, according to owner Steve Lee. “I always tell people they should try the soondubu first if they want to see the quality of my food. Once they try it, they’re hooked.” Variations on the theme include beef, shrimp, sausage, kim chee, beef intestines and a seafood combination with clams. There’s even a Spam soondubu, but most people go for the tofu beef/pork combo.

So Gong Dong
McCully Shopping Center
946-8206

EUROPEAN
Maui Onion Soup
Beachhouse at the Moana Surfrider

I used to love the French onion soup at a mom-and-pop restaurant in Mapunapuna that is sadly no longer with us (not least for its incredibly good value), but it’s hard to beat Rodney Uyehara’s classic version at Beachhouse. He first served it up when he was executive chef at The Bistro at Executive Center, and I was happy to see that the perfect dish followed him to the menu at Beachhouse. It’s not the dish you might first think of on a sultry evening as you sip a mai tai in the Beachhouse dining room and gaze across the ocean, but one spoonful and I promise you’ll be hooked. Great stock, lots of onions and tons of melted Gruyere (three cheeses actually make up the heavy,“lacy"topping) make this one of my all-time favorites.

Beachhouse at the Moana Surfrider
2365 Kalakaua Ave.
923-2861

THAI
Seafood Soup
Keo’s Thai Cuisine

One of the reasons I enjoy Keo’s food so much (and particularly simple dishes like soup) is that the vegetables and herbs are grown by the restaurant’s owner, Keo Sananikone, on his North Shore farm.“It’s one way we ensure that no pesticides are used on our herbs or fruits,” says Keo, “and also get all the ingredients we need.” Twice a week he heads into Honolulu with a truckload of fresh flowers and produce that may include mint, kaffir lime leaves, limes and lemons, jackfruit, mango and sweet basil. The most popular soup is Tom Yum (listed on the menu as Spicy Lemon Grass Soup) and comes in variations that include seafood, pork and chicken.

Keo’s Thai Cuisine Waikiki
2028 Kuhio Ave.
951-9355

CHINESE
Duck Noodle Soup
Wah Kung Restaurant

The first time I had this soup was about seven years ago. Rain was pelting against the windows of the Mapunapuna Wah Kung (the old location) and as I sat alone having lunch and enjoying the wonderful flavors of star anise, fresh noodles and fatty duck meat in glistening broth, I remember thinking that few things hit the spot or warm more readily than a really good bowl of noodle soup. It’s one of the most popular soups on the menu at this longtime favorite Chinese restaurant - and still one of my all-time favorite soups.

Wah Kung Seafood Restaurant
1151 Mapunapuna St.
(former 99 Ranch, mauka side) 833-0880

INTERNATIONAL
Oxtail Soup
Aiea Bowl

At the risk of starting something of a small war, I am merely suggesting Aiea Bowl as an example of excellent oxtail soup. To proclaim one oxtail soup better than another is more serious, I know, than suggesting one brand of mayonnaise over another.

This one’s good, though. With chunky oxtail, a hearty broth and a nice presentation, the soup, served within Aiea Bowl’s restaurant, The Alley, already has a huge fan base.

The Alley at Aiea Bowl
99-115 Aiea Heights Drive, # 310
Aiea
486-3499

AMERICAN REGIONAL
New England Clam Chowder
Panya Bistro

For a creamy, rich, golden yellow soup that seems lighter in calories than it really must be, one of my favorites is the New England clam chowder at Panya Bistro. With a hint of seafood stock and a dainty serving of clams, this is a perfect bowl on days you need a quick, filling lunch to leave you ready to take on the afternoon. Served with Panya’s homemade crusty baguettes, it’s a signature on its varied menu.

Panya Bakery, Bistro & Bar
Ala Moana Center, second floor
946-6388

JAPANESE
Nihon Noodle Trio

Specialized broths dominate the menu at Nihon Noodles on South King Street, where owner Mayumi Kaneshiro serves a variety of noodle dishes found in various regions of Japan. From the south of Japan come Hakata noodles, from the North, the Tokyo noodle, and from the central part of the country, Sapporo. You can try all three together in the popular Nihon Noodle Trio where Hakata (thin noodles with a white, milky tonkotsu broth), Tokyo (medium noodle with shoyu broth) and Sapporo (thick noodles in a miso broth) are served together.

Nihon Noodles
2065 S. King St.
944-6622

 

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