Hawaii Rules

Aloha, lucky wave riders! Last weekend kept us carving the surf and soaking up the sun! Not only did we have solid 2- to 4-foot fun on our South Shore, but on our North Shore as well. That’s really rare this time of year for country … and that makes it all the more enjoyable. It’s like those surfers along the North Shore were getting more than those riding town — on the same size waves!

Actually, this element of dependence on nature in surfing brings us higher-highs and lower-lows. It’s a bit like gambling, I suppose … When you “score,” it’s HUGE because you know it doesn’t come all the time. You depend on greater forces outside of your direct control. Even the top pros in France right now (Monday 6/27) must bow to Mother Nature’s whims. She holds both the carrot and the stick … yet, each one highlights the other. Thank God when those first swells hit after a long layoff of waves. You are taken higher than if you had perfect surf all the time. I guess that’s just another aspect of our sport that makes it unique and keeps us hooked, waxed and ready!

Wow, Hawaii rules! Yes, we had the World Title for the past three years with our Kauai son Andy Irons, or AI … Yes, we have the 6x Triple Crown champ, Sunny Garcia … But I don’t think we’re near done producing champions from these waters! Check this out — the NSSA (National Scholastic Surfing Association) just finished last weekend at Southern California’s Trestles. We had not one, but two winners in the top Open Division.

Girls first … Carissa Moore — get used to hearing that name and seeing that smiling talent for years to come. She’s just 13 but rips like a seasoned veteran. Carissa won most of her heats by large margins … How? She’s fast … competitive … pulls off huge maneuvers … rarely falls … and has a dad who’s always there 200 percent. Father extraordinaire Chris Moore knows how to compete … he’s one of Hawaii’s greatest long-distance ocean swimmers with many first place finishes. And you know the ol’ saying, “like father like daughter!” So there you have it … the winning combo. Good luck from here, Chris and Carissa!

Now, for the men … or should I say the “perfect man” … Clay Marzo! He scored perfect 10’s across the judges’ board when it counted most in the final heat. This Maui man is bound for glory if he so chooses. You just don’t get 10’s without something extra in the talent pool. The “move” that did it for him was a gutsy, low probability “speedcarve-airreverse 360” thingy … He and his surfboard basically flip all the way around above the wave … and land safely. Oh yeah, they can do that nowadays. These “kids” can do stuff that makes you wonder “what the !@#$ was that?” right after you saw it with your own two eyes! Anyway, Clay … good job, buddy … you made us proud.

As far as the forecast for the Fourth of July? That’s a long way out from this writing, but there are signs that we’ll see a new south swell on the third or fourth … You’ll have waited seven days, which means you’ll be surf starved … which means it’ll be oooooh, soooo gooood! I’ll be out there with you … and back here next weekend.

I’m GQ, dropping in 4 U!

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