Surf brats and beautiful people
Friday - May 09, 2008
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Aloha Surfers, Wave No. 1 ... The past several weeks I’ve been bragging about all the great surf on all shorelines. It’s been off the hook.Already with two 6-foot south swells before May! The North Shore rocked us with a couple 5- to 8-foot north swells simultaneously. Well, no more ... not this week or the next or the next. Things have more than tapered off as swell engines (storms) have mellowed or totally shut down. We are below spring averages.
Hey, that’s OK, because this is what stops us from becoming completely spoiled surf brats. These are the “OK” days that create gratitude for the “great” days. And there’s still rideable surf to go around. In fact, this week sees 2-foot energy pulsing from the south and late this weekend from the NW. All waist-high, low-probability forecasts. So please - help me out here - I’m that spoiled surf brat and trying to adapt. It’s all about positive thinking ... or lowering expectations. “Oh boy, at least there are 2-footers! Yipeeeee! Oh, hey, and what about them choppy 1- to 3-foot tradewind swells? It’s time to get the fins out - do a little sponge bobbing!“Seriously, I love it ... 20 barrels an hour.
Wave No. 2 ... The WCT boys aren’t doing much better wave-size-wise. The Billabong Pro at Teahupoo, Tahiti, is likely to have a slow start to its 10-day holding period, May 8-18. The women bypass this treacherous break and go off in Brazil July 15. The men have 11 stops, the women have eight. They’re always praying for surf, too. You want to talk about spoiled? Then talk about the “Dream Tour"our world pros live. Check it out at WWW.ASPWORLDTOUR.COM.
Wave No. 3 ... Our surf community is making up for the lack of surf with BIG waves of service. One event is happening at Queen’s Surf in Waikiki this weekend. It’s the second annual Freedom Surf Contest from Surfing the Nations. Its goal is to promote awareness for a Drug Free Hawaii. There will be live music, giveaways, food and fun in the sun. Oh, and pray for surf.
The next goodwill surf event is at Pyramid Rock (Ku’au) at Kaneohe Marine Corps Base. It’s title: the “Safety and Rescue Specialists Surf Session.” This one has a holding period of two weekends: May 10-11 or May 17-18, surf permitting. It’s purpose is awesome and best described by the guy doing it - Jeff Barbieto: “To promote camaraderie amongst the different organizations that normally get together for professional and often highly stressful situations. The goal for this contest is to encourage us to come together for a positive and fun event for Ohana to enjoy.” Jeff is a firefighter and lifeguard as well as community-minded wave rider. Good on you, brother!
Next person to make a difference is a lady named Marlu West, who’s lived at Chun’s Reef for 30 years! Her love for the place shows by her actions. She helps big time with Adopt-A-Beach Hawaii, and now you can help, too. This Saturday at 10 a.m., please join Marlu and the Moanalua High School’s junior class as they clean the beach! It doesn’t take long at all.You’ll have all the supplies you need, including bottled water and some food. Large signs will be posted. The spots are Turtle Beach and Chun’s Reef. I want to send out special recognition to the students. There are other things each of you could be doing, but you’ve chosen to come out and do your part to give back to the aina! Mahalo! Drop into www.adoptabeachhawaii.com/Dates.htm
Lastly, The Surfrider Foundation Invites You To Keep It Blue!!! This Sunday, May 11, from 3 to 5 p.m. Diamond Head Beach! SURF/Paddle for CLEAN WATER! Go to www.surfrider.org/oahu.
How’s that for some beautiful people doing beautiful things for our beautiful Hawaii? Stoked!
See you back here next week in MidWeek.
GQ, Dropping in 4 U!
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