Chef D.K. Kodama

The hottest chef in Hawaii did not go to a pedigreed culinary school. He did not study under a famous chef. Although he did operate a bulldozer and other heavy equipment at construction sites. And for the first 15 years of his restaurant career, he was a bartender and nightclub manager.

Don Chapman
Wednesday - February 02, 2005
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The hottest chef in Hawaii did not go to a pedigreed culinary school. He did not study under a famous chef. Although he did operate a bulldozer and other heavy equipment at construction sites. And for the first 15 years of his restaurant career, he was a bartender and nightclub manager.

In fact, until D.K. Kodama hit it big with the first Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar at Kapalua, Maui, in 1996, he was best known as the guy who played third base on the Aiea High baseball team that won two state championships with future UH pitching legend Derek Tatsuno.

In those days he was known as David Kodama. Today, asked what D.K. stands for, he quips “Don’t know.”

 

Keeping with the this-is-not-your-typical-high-strung-chef script, Kodama, 47, shows up for his MidWeek cover shoot in shorts and sandals.

“That’s how I’ve always cooked,” he says with a shrug and what seems an ever-present grin.

Turns out, promotional materials for his restaurants urge diners to dress casually and bring a smile — just like the boss.

This unexpected combination of internationally renowned food and flavors — the Bon Appetits and Conde Nast Travelers of the world have lavished several awards, and a Google search of D.K. Kodama nets 12 pages of listings, all of them raves — and casual island family ambiance — his parents work as greeters, and some of Mom’s dishes are on the menu at Sansei — is proving very successful.

So successful that these days he wears shorts and sandals as he shuttles between his “six and a half” restaurants on Oahu and Maui, four of which have opened just since last August.

And on Saturday night in Jacksonville, Kodama will be wearing shorts and sandals as Honolulu’s representative at Taste of the Super Bowl for the third year in a row.

He’s so hot, D.K. could stand for “Dude’s killing.”

FOR the record, here’s a listing of Kodama’s eateries: Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar and D.K. Steak House at the Marriott Waikiki Beach Resort & Spa (former Hawaiian Regent Hotel); Hiroshi’s and Vino at Restaurant Row (this Vino is the half restaurant); Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar at The Shops at Kapalua on Maui; Vino at Kapalua’s Bay Golf Course; and Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar at Kihei, Maui
Sansei are serious sushi and sashimi houses, what Kodama calls “Japanese-based Pacific Rim cuisine.”

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